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Senior Member
Help!- Nicopp Flare problems
Was planning on doing stainless lines and purchased a eastwood rotary flare tool to get the job done. Made a last minute switch to nicopp and cant seem to flare the stuff. Tried all types of technique and pressure but somehow end up getting a smashed bubble in OP1. I'm starting to think this tool wont work for Nicopp as all attempts with steel lines form perfect flares.
Any suggestions? Maybe will go back to stainless route.
Thanks-
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Be sure you set the start position of the tubing with OP0 before clamping. Doing double flairs requires two operations after setting the initial position.
I had great results with nickel copper.
Last edited by Papa; 07-29-2019 at 12:40 PM.
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Senior Member
Yes, did all that. The nicopp seems to crush in the die in OP-1 stage after OP-0. Cant seem to get it right. Switched over to steel lines and get a perfect flare every time. Just strange.
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If it's working with one and not the other, I'd suspect the material. Strange indeed.
Are you noticing any collapsing of the copper tubing after it's cut. Maybe the opening needs to be reamed a bit more to open it up?
Last edited by Papa; 07-28-2019 at 10:40 AM.
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Senior Member
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Wow! Those are certainly "ugly".
Is that after the first operation? Looks like the tool isn't seating inside the tubing.
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Senior Member
Going to return the material and try a different supplier. Hoping the material is the problem. Like I said I cut up some standard steel line to try and it produces a perfect flare every time. Material is too soft I'm guessing. Thanks for the help.
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You could also try to shoot a bit of WD-40 on the tubing before flairing it.
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Not sure if you are throwing that handle all the way. For the nycop you just throw the handle until you feel it stop
build thread:
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Build School: July 14-16, 2017
Kit purchased: July 25, 2017
Kit delivered: September 13, 2017
First Start: December 22, 2018
Body painted and kit completed and drivable: July 2019 (but still not done)
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I used Nicopper as the softer material was easier to flare with the cheapo tools I had. I did discover that chamfering the outer edge of the line made a big difference in the quality of the flares for me.
MKIV #8740, Canadian base kit, Picked up Dec. 2015, ‘98 Cobra 4.6 l DOHC, T45 transmission, old style IRS, Art Cuesta dieted harness/Ron Francis chassis harness, go-cart July 2018.
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Senior Member
Thanks for the pointers. I'm going to give a new lot of nicopp a shot and if I cant get it working may go back to stainless plan. I did get a note from Eastwood for any/all interested explaining that this tool was designed for steel and stainless and not for nicopp/cunifer. Seems odd to me as there are many videos out there with nicopp being flared.
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Senior Member
Just curious, but why bubble? Double flares are what I have seen pretty much everyone use in their builds.
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Originally Posted by
Avalanche325
Just curious, but why bubble? Double flares are what I have seen pretty much everyone use in their builds.
Corrected my first post. Intended to describe the process for doing 45 degree double flares, which is what all my flares are.
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I was able to get great flares in Nicopp with the same tool. Not sure why your material was having issues.
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Senior Member
UPDATE- new 25' roll from Stopshop just arrived and gave it a go on the eastwood tool. WORKED PERFECTLY! Don't buy material from 4lifetimelines from Amazon. CRAP!
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Yeah, I used all Nicop for fuel and brakes, worked perfect with the Eastwood tool. I think I trashed 1.
Oh, I see now the new material worked. Excellent!!
Last edited by Boydster; 07-30-2019 at 09:01 AM.
Reason: too many o's...
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I bought cunifer for all my fluid lines, so this is interesting. Mine came from FedHill. I haven’t installed any lines yet but my experience with steel hydraulic lines reminds me to deburr the cut ends before flaring, inside & out. It makes a difference with steel lines, so I assume the cunifer lines will benefit from the same.