right. More is better. However, I'm fine with it. I'm not bothered enuf to determine the stresses on it (BSME). I'll let you know if it ever fails (grin)
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right. More is better. However, I'm fine with it. I'm not bothered enuf to determine the stresses on it (BSME). I'll let you know if it ever fails (grin)
FFR 35 p/u # 0014
I used to think I needed a Rolex watch, now I’d be happier with a Swedish K!
I'd get under it. If it was my ~7.000 pound Ram 2500 not so much.
Jeff
You should consider raising it another five feet so you can walk under it and installing casters. Probably need ramps but it would be just like a real lift, they have ramps too.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
FFR 35 p/u # 0014
I used to think I needed a Rolex watch, now I’d be happier with a Swedish K!
As a millwright (most of you reading this will have to look that craft up) I used dunnage (yes that's a real word) in creative ways to shore up very heavy equipment much higher than what you're doing Ken. To most it will look kinda hokey and unsafe but done right it serves the purpose. Been working under tens of tons of equipment set on wooden blocks and no problem. And I'm more risk averse than most here.
Rock on brother. But when your body wracks up the mileage mine has (or maybe it's not the mileage but the rough roads) you won't want to work on your back and the cost of a lift will seem more attractive.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
This is me. I am planning on getting my garage set up this year and ready to start building the following year. I'm actually excited to buy tools! I have a basic wrench set and all the basic stuff you would need to do modest home repairs. I have about 20% of whats on the list already.
As a working dealership tech at the time of my good tool were at work. I only had basic hand tools at home. Borrowed the engine hoist from work and the flair tool from Auto zone (because it was aweekend). The only thing I bought was an air riveter. You do not need to spend a lot on tools inless you want. Now that I am no longer working as tech. I have more at home for the next build.
Air riveter is definitely my favorite tool I bought for the build.
Supprised I’m the first to this, but some times especially for a first time builder the best tools and best loan a tool you can get are some local FFR guys, lol. Some tools are nice but things like a good Eastwood flair tool can often be borrowed as you’ll not use it much after the lines are made. Are they nice to have, sure. Like me I have many tools. But I’m always willing to help too. If you want to get the tools go for it, if your on a budget or would like the friends or both find some local guys and gals building some FFR’s and make it a social thing. I’m sure some one will have the tools you need and often they have great ideas too. Plus the extra hands often come in handy during parts of the build.
Mk4, Moser M88 rear end, Eaton truetrak, Craft Racing 461 Windsor, MMR pro trans, Glenn’s 1,000 hp cobra fuel system and lots of other parts.
I'm surprised that more was not made of the idea of buying second hand tools. There are lots of great deals out there for the savvy buyer, some brand new even, all for the fraction of new.
any thoughts on jack stand pads for UNDER the jack? I have rubber tops to protect the frame, but are there good pads to use to protect my new epoxy floor?
I think these Camco pads will work pretty well...
Camco 44600 Universal Flex Pads for Leveling Blocks, 8.5” x 8.5”
I'm in a similar position. Have been buying-up tools and prepping the garage for the past 6-months or so. Hoping to pull the trigger on a kit in the next few months. Getting the garage ready has been half the fun.
I have enough tools that I just started building and bought only what I needed as I went along. The only thing I bought ahead of time was the air riveter.
---Boyd---
MkIV #9042 build thread
www.boss427.us
427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019
If the epoxy floor is worth its salt, a jack stand is not going to damage it. A good epoxy can withstand warehouse traffic such as fork lifts and loaders. Just avoid sliding it around and set into place.
MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
Build Thread #1: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread
MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
Build Thread #2: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Build-Thread-2
I have an epoxy floor and use steel jack stands a lot. No problem. But I'd be very concerned setting the jack stands on an elastomer that will flex as this will not provide a sturdy base. Padding on the top to protect the frame or axle is not a problem but I would not use it on the base.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
well, I ordered them as they had a deal - they're the perfect size for the HF jacks, the only issue is that they're hard enough to be slippery! If I could rough up the surface, it would work great, but I think i'll pass for now... would add another inch of rise to the jacks as well which would be less to hunch over... oh well, caveat emptor!