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Thread: Locking power brakes

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Locking power brakes

    Help needed, been gone some time since sold first car, decided to have another go at it with a cyote build. Went pre owened this time ! But it comes with a hitch. This cars brakes primarily front seam to be dragging causing heat build up bringing car to a halt!! When I say stop I mean 460 hp can't move it, give it a half hour she cools down it will move for short distance before heating back up and locking. As stated I didn't build this one but what I have found out is this. Originally manual mustang brakes, later converted to willwood 6 piston fronts with wilwood e brake type rears with power booster, dont know who's booster or master. No bias adjustment. Eliminated E brake being out of adjustment. Also noticed how sensitive brakes are , touch them to hard and fast and your through the windshield !! thoughts I had was pushrod to long and applying brakes all the time, brake line getting to hot and expanding fluid!! I give up no reason for reaching out any thoughts ideas for advice would be appreciated

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2017
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    Brake pushrod is too long / need another spacer between the booster and the firewall. Next time they are locked up crack open a fitting on the brake line and check for pressure.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Norton, MA USA earth
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    Sent you a text. we can get this worked out.
    Mike

  4. #4
    Junior Member
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    Apr 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by frd2 View Post
    Brake pushrod is too long / need another spacer between the booster and the firewall. Next time they are locked up crack open a fitting on the brake line and check for pressure.
    That pushrod should be threaded with a jam nut making it adjustable. Occasionally you will not be able to get it long enough to allow full travel through the master, or short enough to keep this from happening. If that is the case I have removed the spacer from within the master and cut it to shorten. I prefer to cut from the pushrod end as you can drill that end to recreate the concave allowing the pushrod to center. I prefer this as a cleaner install than adding spacers everyone can see.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Navasota, Texas
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    412
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    Sounds like maybe they changed from manual to power and didn't replace the brake pedal with a longer one to move the mounting up.
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

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