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Thread: Blade's 33 build

  1. #1
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    Blade's 33 build

    I got my FFR 33 delivered on July 18th. It took more than a couple days for inventory. So many other distractions. I started on some of the powder coating about a week ago. I bought the oven for 30 bucks off craigslist. I practiced on a couple of other things first and then dove in. Along the way I tried to polish the firewall to a mirror finish, total fail. I watched a youtube on how to do it, came out badly. Then I realized why. I would never be able to keep it clean. So I researched what and why the early hotrodders did turned aluminum and I knew it was right. Tell me what you'all think. The brake calipers where pretty easy, disassembled, cleaned, powder and cook. The upper and lowers where a little more complicated in that I had to get the grease out. The first coat is black then Ultimate Chrome...came out more like shiny silver. I still like it. Tough as nails. Brake clean is a blessing. calipers.jpgfirewall 2.jpgfirst stage.jpgsuspension pieces.jpguppers.jpgsuspension parts powder coated.jpg

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  3. #2
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    Looks good. It must have taking you a while to do the firewall.
    I didn't turn mine but I did put this on it, it's not cheap but after all the effort you put into the firewall this will protect it.
    https://www.eastwood.com/exoarmour.html
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  4. #3
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Welcome! Look forward to seeing more of your build.
    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog Ignition

  5. #4
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    Welcome Blade. Looks like your off to a good start.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

  6. #5

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    How did you do the engine turning on the firewall? It looks great in that photo!
    Keith HR#894

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    I like it - planning on doing the same to mine. That looks just like a test sample that I tried using 2 inch scotchbrite pads

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    these are the pieces I ordered. I used my drill press and a ton of patience. The pads load up with aluminum goo pretty quick, I changed often.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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    Got an early start today with the intention of getting the button head screws into the firewall. Went a little slower than I planned but it was good. Drill/taps are the bomb. Not my idea I got it from this forum. I'm still awaiting on my POL stuff, but I was able to almost finish the front suspension. I post these pictures not to boast but for you to scrutinize and find flaws. And please bring them to my attention. You won't offend me. finished firewall.jpgfront suspension 90percent.jpgfront suspension 95 percent.jpg

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  11. #9
    Senior Member TxMike64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blade View Post
    You can powdercoat the lower control arm adjustable links... Just scuff up the dichromate coating first.
    -- Mike --
    TxMike64
    TxM Garage

  12. #10
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxMike64 View Post
    You can powdercoat the lower control arm adjustable links... Just scuff up the dichromate coating first.
    Absolutely. I did. Came out great m
    #1133 33 Hot rod

    MkI.IV 2643k

  13. #11
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    I took y'alls advice and powder coated adjustable lower control arms and tie rod ends. I think they came out great. Pics coming next post. The problem I have run into is the items on my POL is keeping me from really completing one thing and moving on. This may be normal, so as a result I moved to fuel tank. Dang that bad boy is tight. Without the tank floor in it is super tight. I then concluded that the rivet heads will make it worse. I contemplated silicone on the underside of the tank floor alum and a few rivets along the perimeter. Did anyone have similar issues, if so what were your solutions?

  14. #12
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    I think almost all of us had to wait for a few months before we had all of the missing parts.
    Yes, the fuel tank was a very tight fit, I had to use a jack to push the top frame piece up just enough to slide the tank in, it was still a tight fit.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  15. #13
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    The tank is a treat. Make sure that you have the ability to pull down the hinges for the truck before you commit to drilling. On my chassis, and my understanding from the guys at the store, is most chassis will require that the tank is offset to passenger some. It does not sit squarely to get the tabs to line up. It does fit it’s just a question of getting it centered under the hinges for the trunk lid.

    Don’t get hung up on centering it on the chassis. The only thing that matters is the hinges. I suggest putting on the back wall where the filler neck is at the same time so that you don’t fight it as well.
    #1133 33 Hot rod

    MkI.IV 2643k

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  17. #14
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    I did take an angle grinder with flap wheel to the high spots, it helped a bunch....a jack....hummmm. Now your talkin!! Thanks for the advice. I did think to put in the back alum yes it makes a bunch of difference.

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    fuel tank.jpgwall behind fuel tank.jpg

    Fuel tank in. It didn't want to, I was very persuasive. Tabs on tank weren't very close, had to drill ideal locations.

  19. #16
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    I also had to re-drill a few holes to bolt the tank in.
    One of my mounting tabs on the tank was 1/4" too high, wouldn't allow the tank to slide under the top frame.
    I cut it and re-welded it.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  20. #17
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    Can I ask a question, please. How wide is frame? Looks like it's pretty consistant from the firewall to behind the seats (rear bulkhead. I'm looking for a measurement from outside frame rail to outside frame rail at the widest point not counting the door mechanisms. Thanks in advance. John in Az.
    Last edited by 40flash; 08-18-2019 at 12:00 AM.

  21. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40flash View Post
    Can I ask a question, please. How wide is frame? Looks like it's pretty consistant from the firewall to behind the seats (rear bulkhead. I'm looking for a measurement from outside frame rail to outside frame rail at the widest point not counting the door mechanisms. Thanks in advance. John in Az.
    Frame Dimension.jpg Hope this helps.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

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  23. #19
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    two questions.
    first, I want to run an type fittings(what size/etc) and stainless wrapped hose from clutch and brake master cyl through firewall. your thoughts?
    second, from all I've read I'm confused about using an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical already on the block(blue print 383 w/ holley tri power)

  24. #20
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    I upgraded all of it. The extra length is so I can bleed the reservoir away from the firewall and service if need be. Plus I needed to be able to tighten the fitting inside the tube. All -3 an
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by sethmark; 08-20-2019 at 12:05 PM.
    #1133 33 Hot rod

    MkI.IV 2643k

  25. #21
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blade View Post
    from all I've read I'm confused about using an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical already on the block(blue print 383 w/ holley tri power)
    Can't say I've ever researched the topic but why would you use an electric pump if you have the mechanical (for non EFI applications), would have thought it is one or the other....
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog Ignition

  26. #22
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Can't say I've ever researched the topic but why would you use an electric pump if you have the mechanical (for non EFI applications), would have thought it is one or the other....

    I thought the tri-power was three baby carburetors? 3 300cfms? I would expect mechanical 7psi to be ample..
    #1133 33 Hot rod

    MkI.IV 2643k

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