Blade's 33 build

[TxMike64]

What are the front tires?

[Blade]

245/35ZR-17 TOYO PROXES R1R XL from tirerack in october. Rears are 285/25-20 TOYO PROXES T1R RF . Wheels are Ridler...ordered from Amazon.

[Blade]

can anyone give me direction on how this goes together. A picture or 2 would be greatdoor hardware.jpg

[FF33rod]

You just wondering how to work with the spring? This is covered in the Gen 1 manual but looking at the gen 2 that I have a copy of it seems to be deleted. I can take some snaps of the gen 1 manual if needed....

Steve

[Blade]

that would be awesome thank you sir.
Dean

[FF33rod]

I've copied a bit more than needed as it looks like a couple of parts have changed in Gen 2 regarding how the cable attaches to the handle but I'm sure you can figure it out....

From the Gen 1 manual

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Steve

[Blade]

Thank you Steve. This is more than I expected.
Dean

[Blade]

Body work is clearly not my area of expertise. After I figured out how to move the roof on and off, I sanded off the high raised areas. The rear of the roof sits nicely. When I put the weather strip on it should be good. The windshield area has a pretty big gap. I can push it down easily but it distorts the angle of the opening, and i fear the windshield will not fit correctly. I can sand the A posts and reduce the gap. I just wanted you guys take before I crank the sander up. One last thing. The lip for the windows,front and rear glass on the roof, how wide should it be. Mine are almost an inch.A post drivers side from inside.jpgA post drivers side.jpggap under windshield.jpgrear glass lip.jpgwindshield lip.jpgwidth of lip.jpg

[FF33rod]

I'm envious with the finish of your top around the edges! Mine were a mess and I'm still screwing around filling and shaping it.

Similar to you, the top fit quite well along the back, had to sand a little on both sides to bring the rear down a little to close up the gap. The front passenger A pillar didn't fit too bad but the driver's side had 1/4 - 5/16 gap. I put some filler in and and also clamped it down some. Between the 2 it fits not too bad now. Not sure how the window is going to fit.

Speaking of the windows, I have the same question as you, what dimension is everyone cutting the fiberglass back to? I know everyone does it some to gain a bit more visibility.

Steve

[Blade]

I got the door handles mounted and that overly complicated mechanism with the spring installed outside and found the operating cable is too short. I checked both manual references, checked my work, and it seems they are short by about an inch. Are there gen1 and gen 2 cables? door latch cable.jpgdoor latch cable other view.jpg
The pics are the same end different views.

[Bgardner]

Maybe a bit late but I trimmed window openings back to 5/8"

IMG_5413.jpgIMG_6167.jpg

Leaves enough room to glue glass in place and also seems to be covered by the black on the windshield.

[Bgardner]

I got the door handles mounted and that overly complicated mechanism with the spring installed outside and found the operating cable is too short. I checked both manual references, checked my work, and it seems they are short by about an inch. Are there gen1 and gen 2 cables? door latch cable.jpgdoor latch cable other view.jpg
The pics are the same end different views.

Blade

I am currently also working on door handles, cables I have seem to be about 1/4" short and keep my door handle sitting up too high. I will try and see if I can adjust the sleeve tomorrow and get the extra 1/4"

handle.jpghandle cable.jpg

The cables I have are 22 1/2 long outside to outside, the sleeve is 20 1/8" long

From your picture it looks like there is a piece on the back plate that is used as a stop for the cable lever arm when it returns to the resting position (pushed by the spring). attached is a picture of my back plate, does yours have an extra tab out of the bottom or is this something you added.

cable bracket.jpg

[Blade]

Yours are gen 1 versions, I have the gen 2. they are very different. Not sure about cable length, will check today

[Blade]

window door trim.jpg the manual gives specific measurements for cutting the opening for window. They are inaccurate. I'm not sure who on the forum here saw this first but they were right. Sorry can't remember who to give credit too. The opening must be much bigger,in the neighborhood of 1.185 to 1.2. window install lower holes.jpg The manual then states to use lower holes, this it appears is inaccurate. All the subsequent pictures use the upper holeswindow install page 500.jpg and then it switches back to lower holes. I used the upper holes and all seems well. window channel.jpg this is the glass channel.
And now a question. I can attach my battery charger to the two wires from the window motor and supply 2 amps and move the mechanism, switch them and move in other direction. I have tried in vain to get the supplied switch to operate the motor. window motor switch wires.jpg there are 2 grounds(do i connect together?) someone please share with me.window wiring schematic.jpgin the picture the upper schematic came with the switch, lower pic is from manual.

[FF33rod]

The diagram that came with the switch doesn't seem to have the correct terminal orientation or even number. I'd ignore.
My manual has slightly different diagram (more info) than yours. Maybe it will help
window switch.jpg

Seems pretty straightforward - separate power and ground for illumination of the switch. Ground you can find, for the illumination power I tapped into the white wire that comes from the light switch and goes to the dash gauge lights.

The window up and window down wires get connected to the window motor. Using an ohmmeter, I verified that power and ground get connected to these when you press the switch in one direction and get reversed when you press the switch in the other direction.

Steve

[Tampa33Build]

This is the schematic for how my power windows are wired. I have the Infinity Box, The Master cell just applies ground to the up an down inputs. The Rear power cell provides the power.
Never tried attaching a PDF, hopefully it works.
power window.pdf

[HVACMAN]

I tried to keep mine simple because of the location in the console. I brought 6 wires to the switches. 1 twelve volt keyed ignition; 1 ground; 2 window up; and 2 window down.

[Blade]

needs paint.jpg I have not posted in a while and the reason is simple. I got my car to the point where it drives awesome,parts don't fall off and it stops really well. I took it too the only body shop here in my little town ( pop. 4000 approx.) I meet the owner, Zane Grey Stokes, very nice young guy. He was trained at Good Guys in Chattanooga. He shows me around the shop and it's pretty much what I expected. Pretty clean and lots of high tech. When we go into the office I see a bunch of very cool framed Cars with trophy's and such. Zane then proceeds to tell me about his time doing work for Texas Metal on the show. Sure enough I checked out the episodes and there he is. I took my 33 too them early in July, have been checking in on it every couple of weeks, still sitting inside out of their way with zero being done. I'm kinda frustrated, not totally because he did say it could take 4 months to complete, maybe more. I think what will happen they will at some time just dig in and thrash. I just wanted to vent a little. Thanks

[Blade]

work is moving along on the paint and body. I made a cart for the body shop today. Tomorrow we should finalize the trunk lid, power windows, and take the body off for primer. paint cart.jpgtrunk lid set.jpg

[RoadRacer]

needs paint.jpg I have not posted in a while and the reason is simple. I got my car to the point where it drives awesome,parts don't fall off and it stops really well. I took it too the only body shop here in my little town ( pop. 4000 approx.) I meet the owner, Zane Grey Stokes, very nice young guy. He was trained at Good Guys in Chattanooga. He shows me around the shop and it's pretty much what I expected. Pretty clean and lots of high tech. When we go into the office I see a bunch of very cool framed Cars with trophy's and such. Zane then proceeds to tell me about his time doing work for Texas Metal on the show. Sure enough I checked out the episodes and there he is. I took my 33 too them early in July, have been checking in on it every couple of weeks, still sitting inside out of their way with zero being done. I'm kinda frustrated, not totally because he did say it could take 4 months to complete, maybe more. I think what will happen they will at some time just dig in and thrash. I just wanted to vent a little. Thanks

Sorry, I must have missed this update last year - I'm kinda fascinated by this pic. It may be an optical illusion, but it appears your rear wheel is way further back than mine. I found a similar picture of mine to compare. Was this something that you did intentionally? Or is this Gen2 has longer lower arms to center the wheel better? Interesting!

wheel-placement.jpg

[RoadRacer]

Ha, answered my own question, by reading the original SEMA announcement "In the rear suspension, we moved the mounts for the 4-link and 3-link solid axles suspensions to center the rear wheels in the body rear wheel well arch." - I had forgotten about this, and seeing the difference really surprised me!

[Blade]

James, too right,they are clearly farther back. I like both setups. I have Gen 2 chassis and body.

[Blade]

work on the prep for paint got hijacked by a problematic trunk latch. So, we think we have a solution, in the picture we cut and shaped some flat stock and made feet which are welded on. underneath is a wider piece of flat stock through bolted. I like the quik latch. easy to use, just getting the anchor points right was slow. quick latch far.jpgquick latch close up.jpgtrunk latch left.jpgtrunk quik latch anchor right.jpg

[Blade]

I'm at the point where I need to think seriously about the seats that came with the kit. I don't care for them simply because they lack padding and aren't adjustable. What are you guys thoughts? I ordered after market sliders, they haven't arrived yet. I tried the procar Rally seats...too wide, won't fit in the car.
Blade

[FF33rod]

You don't have a ton of choices due to the width restrictions but a lot of guys have got aftermarket ones to work. For me, I found the ffr seats to be not bad once I inclined them a little (front is about 1/2-3/4 higher than the rear). Also considering adding a bit of foam under the seat for a bit more comfort

Steve

[wallace18]

Miata seats are maybe the only ones that may work. Even those are a tight fit. See the ones we used for my wife's 33. They were a little pricey and are fairly narrow. Not for a wide rear end, LOL.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...allace18/page4

[RoadRacer]

I have the big&tall leather seats, then added the breeze kit for incline which includes a hardboard insert to hold the cushion up. I'm only 1000 miles in, but I have never even thought about the seats.. which is a good thing. They are comfy and work well.

[progmgr1]

x2 on the FFR Big & Tall seats. I added aftermarket sliders and home built brackets to lift the front about 1". The seats are comfortable for my fat a**, my wife and my skinny son.
Keith HR #894

[Blade]

I have the big&tall leather seats, then added the breeze kit for incline which includes a hardboard insert to hold the cushion up. I'm only 1000 miles in, but I have never even thought about the seats.. which is a good thing. They are comfy and work well.

breeze kit? can you bring me up to speed on this

[Blade]

you guys are awesome. thanks. I will call FFR tomorrow to inquire about the seats big and tall.

[33fromSD]

breeze kit? can you bring me up to speed on this

x2

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Yes, this from breeze.. excellent

#70602
Installation Kit for New Steel Frame “Classic” Seats

[33fromSD]

Yes, this from breeze.. excellent

#70602
Installation Kit for New Steel Frame “Classic” Seats

That's awesome....Thanks James...definitely ordering this tomorrow

[FF33rod]

I will call FFR tomorrow to inquire about the seats big and tall.

Looks like you received your kit in 2019, I received mine in late 2018 and at that time they were only shipping big and tall so it is likely that what you received. If I remember correctly, it actually says on them somewhere - maybe have a look....

Steve

[JimLev]

I swapped my low back seats for some high back Miata seats. The seat backs are adjustable and had slides attached to the bottom.
I had to swap them side to side so the seatback adjusters were on the inside, otherwise the adjusters were on the outside and not clear the sides of the waterfall.
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C824C690-3B1F-460F-AB1D-B67CC49DB1EA.jpeg

[j33ptj]

May I suggest Corbeau seats? They come in a variety of widths, including upto 48" which I think is the max width for the HR...

They also do custom upholstery for you (at least in the UK), I had this brand in my Jeep and also as a desk chair, they are nice...

https://www.corbeau-seats.com/

[33fromSD]

That's awesome....Thanks James...definitely ordering this tomorrow

Ordered mine. Thanks again James

[Blade]

ordered breeze seat install kit last night. I am taking my seats to a local auto upholsterer, to see about upgrading foam density and stuff. I think Seth mentioned that some time ago here on the forum, so Seth I'm taking your advice, just a little later than I thought. Progress today, body came off the chassis onto cart.paint cart.jpg Primer tomorrow and the weekend to let it do whatever it does.body on crate april 2021.jpg

[HotrodMike]

The high back Miata seats fit like they were made for it, I will have to get a set when I start my build in June 2021. Great job love the way your build came together!!

[Blade]

took longer than expected, but primer finished tonight. Gets the weekend to fully cure. Blocked on mon or tues. car in primer april 23 2021.jpeg