Blade's 33 build

[Blade]

I received the Tenhulzen alignment tool today. Can someone please share the specs I need for toe. I'm still in the body shop,but looking at the wheels it looks like I have a toe out issue.

[FF33rod]

HR alignment.jpg

good luck
Steve

[Blade]

body,roof,doors and trunk lid got their last coat of primer today. last primer coat.jpegprimer on roof.jpegOn monday a light sand with 320grit and a wash before paint. So close. I just finished the seats. I added the breeze mounting kit and sliders from amazon. Love the way they came out. Will post pics this weekend. The combo gave me almost 4" of travel.

[Blade]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPT17CT...roduct_details the link to the sliders if you are interested. I mounted the sliders to the seat and then mounted the Breeze kit to the sliders. Only 4 holes required in the seat frame. The fiber board insert really firms up the seat. I could totally tell the difference. The Breeze components come raw, so get some paint on soon or they begin to get some surface rust. The components are top notch. I'm 6'3" and have my seat all the way against the waterfall. With these sliders I can not only reach my dash switches better, I can change seating positions on longer stints. seat 8.jpgseat 7.jpgseat 6.jpgseat 5.jpgseat 4.jpgseat 3.jpgseat 2.jpgseat 1.jpg

[Blade]

The guys at the body shop asked how I was attaching door panels. I said,"I don't really know". I have seen them attached with screws, but didn't really want to do that. They suggested black double sided tape. Good idea but what if I want to remove some day. I suggested earth magnets, they nodded knowingly.....so I bought some small .260 and some large 1.250. the large ones will hurt you. they claim one will hold 110lbs. was contemplating gluing a thin metal plate to the lip of the door for the magnet to attach to, these would get paint and clear. I guess I'm wanting you guys to wade in on this. The panels are flat and the door has some contour,I made those bends and the panels sit pretty flat. The arm rest will be attached to the thick steel door bar, that will also hold the panel. So, what do you think???

[FF33rod]

Want a bit more finished look than the screws and since one of my panels don't fit anyway I'm building my own. Hagan has various components for this and I will be using their door clips for fiberglass
https://www.haganauto.com/product_p/dobptkf.htm

Steve

[Blade]

20210625_134759.jpg20210625_134749.jpg20210625_134739.jpg20210625_134733.jpg20210625_134717.jpg
It has been a long process getting into the booth , but it finally happened today. These pics are before clear. The clear is being sprayed as I type. Will post after, probably Monday. the color is :

[Blade]

Well I'm suprised. Here are the after clear pics. 5 coats of clear. Attachment 149876Attachment 149877Attachment 149878Attachment 149879Attachment 1498805242.jpeg

[e36m3]

Hi Blade,

When I click on the attachments in your latest post I get this error message "Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator"

Thanks,
Andy

[progmgr1]

Hi Blade,

When I click on the attachments in your latest post I get this error message "Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator"

Thanks,
Andy

I had exactly the same issue on 6/25, so I sent an email to the admin as directed. No response, and the links still don't seem to work? I understand that this is a minor issue in the big scheme of things, but I would like to see these photos.
Keith HR #894

[FF33rod]

I'm pretty sure the admin can't fix it, the poster needs to redo the post making sure the attachments work (right format, correct size)

[Blade]

Thanks for advising me. Let me try this again. The problem could be at my end. 5245.jpeg5242.jpeg5241.jpeg5241.jpeg5300.jpeg20210629_090030.jpg5345.jpeg5346.jpeg5347.jpeg5350.jpeg

the first pics are in the booth after 5 coats of clear. the second set is after putting on the roof temporarily so they could cut and buff the car.

[wallace18]

Looks Fantastic!

[Blade]

some progress pics and a question. How does the inner door latch go together? inner door latch.jpgThe spring doesn't seem to be in the right place. gaps are needing final adjustment.doors on and ready for final adjustment.jpg finished with cut and buffboth doors cut and buffed.jpgdrivers door ready for install.jpgdoor close up.jpg

[33fromSD]

I just so happen to have an extra "assembled" inner door latch so I took a pic.

20210726_123039.jpg

Jim

[33fromSD]

Also, in this link below under the 33 section there are instructions for the aluminum interior door handles

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/

Jim

[Blade]

thank you sir.

[Blade]

Had a good day today. Weather here in middle tenn was awesome. I got the trunk deck lid on and the whole thing works.trunk lid done.jpg The doors went back on without much hassle. both doors on and latches work.jpginside passenger door.jpg I like the aluminum inside door opener. I have read many threads about where and how to do rear view mirrors. Please give me your thoughts on this topic.

[RoadRacer]

I have read many threads about where and how to do rear view mirrors. Please give me your thoughts on this topic.

Here you go. I love mine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post447128

[Blade]

power window connections finished.door contacts.jpgdoor contacts inside.jpg after much debate Zane(the painter dude) convinced me to paint the grill. It has enough clear to take a beating and still be able to cut and buff it.grill painted.jpeggrill 2.jpeggrill 3.jpeg

[Blade]

My list of items to complete is getting short. I finished the dynamat in the cockpitstarting dyna mat install.jpgdynamat almost complete.jpgworking on dynamat.jpgseats in after dynamat.jpg
Finished dynamat in trunk and added the stock carpet.trunk carpet 2.jpgtrunk carpet 1.jpgtrunk in dyna mat.jpg
I didn't really like the ac controls plate so I cut it down, engine turned it to match the dash and mounted it to the dash. I am trying to not have anything hanging down heater ac controls.jpgac controls in dash.jpg
Still waiting on the upholstery shop to get me in. He's doing headliner,molded carpet, covered waterfall, door panels. Hopefully he calls this week.

[e36m3]

Car is looking great.
You mentioned you are 6'3", with you seat bracket set up how much distance is there between your head and the hardtop?
I like the bracket setup you used and I have the same seats.
I'm 6'2" and I'll be rnning my car on the track so I want to make sure I've got enough clearance.

Thanks,
Andy

[Blade]

I haven't actually measured the space above my head, but I'm pretty sure its at least enough for a full face helmet. I will check tomorrow and get the exact number.

[RoadRacer]

Everyone is different ratios, torso, etc, but at 6' tall there seems acres of space above my helmet - a good fists-worth 3-4"?

[e36m3]

Everyone is different ratios, torso, etc, but at 6' tall there seems acres of space above my helmet - a good fists-worth 3-4"?

James,
Thanks for the feedback. I just checked out your build thread and see you used the Breeze brackets too. I hadn't thought about sub belt yet. I like what you did.
Andy

[RoadRacer]

James,
Thanks for the feedback. I just checked out your build thread and see you used the Breeze brackets too. I hadn't thought about sub belt yet. I like what you did.
Andy

I just measured so I’m not “remembering”.. I have 5.5” above bare head, 2.5” above helmet. Yes I have breeze bracket

[Blade]

James,
Even with the seat all the ways forward, you are correct at least 4-5 inches.with red grill.jpg The grill painted to match the car.

[e36m3]

Guys,
Thanks for the feedback on the head/helmut clearance. I'll be ordering the breeze brackets too.
Andy

[Blade]

getting the car ready for the upholstery shop to do their thing. molded carpet,headliner,waterfall covered,door panels...took it for a ride. No top,no windshield, pure fun....dirty car.jpggetting a bath.jpggetting ready for top.jpg

[Blade]

Hey you guys, I just remembered something I wanted to run by you. After my drive yesterday I noticed my drivers side rear brake rotor was shiny about 1/3 the way from outside in. The others were shiny from braking as should be. It was easy to spot because there was a bit of surface rust on the rotors. Any thoughts on what that is all about. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the wheel and inspect...maybe e brake, dirt in the pad...etc

[33fromSD]

Hey you guys, I just remembered something I wanted to run by you. After my drive yesterday I noticed my drivers side rear brake rotor was shiny about 1/3 the way from outside in. The others were shiny from braking as should be. It was easy to spot because there was a bit of surface rust on the rotors. Any thoughts on what that is all about. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the wheel and inspect...maybe e brake, dirt in the pad...etc

Did you go through the bedding of the brake pad process yet? Pads may not fully seated yet. You may have also had an air pocket in the driver's side caliper. May not hurt to bleed the rears again.

The only other thing I can think of is did you thoroughly clean the rotors with brake cleaner before installing them to remove the oil / protection suppliers put on rotors. I found this needs to be done a couple times per rotor to get everything really clean.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Also look at the brake bias bar, if it's set too heavy on the fronts you may only be light scuffing the rotors in the rear.

Jim

[Blade]

Thanks Jim,
I have not bedded these brakes. I haven't had the opportunity to do so. I will tomorrow. I will do a thorough inspection just prior to bedding. I knew if I asked you guys I'd get a comprehensive list to work from.

[Blade]

Do you guys know if the wiring schematic(and break down of color coding in the manual) for the tail lights is accurate?

[RoadRacer]

Do you guys know if the wiring schematic(and break down of color coding in the manual) for the tail lights is accurate?

I don't remember any problems. The headlights caused some discussion I remember, but the tail lights were super straightforward.

[33fromSD]

Do you guys know if the wiring schematic(and break down of color coding in the manual) for the tail lights is accurate?

I cannot find it in my post, I thought I documented the wiring for the head light, but if you search for headlight wiring on the forum, a bunch of guys have documents the proper way to wire the headlights.

A lot depends upon if you want to run day time running lights on the LED setup or use parking lights. Both are wired differently.

Jim

[HVACMAN]

The wiring for the tail lights is pretty straight forward, as RoadRacer said. The main thing to remember is DO NOT use the purple wire.

[Blade]

All the wiring issues emanating from me wiring the connections on the brake light switch wrong. I had to start fresh, everything works as it should. Now it seems I'm having a clutch issue. My painter and I took the car for a spin. No top, into the wind, I let him drive a little. Everything worked perfect. Yesterday Zane(painter) asked me to come by the shop and move the car to the other side of the yard, started great when right into first, but a minute later the clutch pedal felt tough to push in and seemed to want to stay down. Then no clutch, reservoir full,getting a bath.jpgout for a short shake down ride.jpgdirty car.jpg no apparent leaks on the floor where it was stored(I'm waiting for the top to be cut and buffed) any ideas are welcome. I'm going to pull the dash and check the pushrod and master. then get under and go for a bleed. Am I leaving anything out?

[RoadRacer]

If no fluid leaked then has to be the mechanical bits? So yes, pushrod and whatever is at the other end (Is it external with lever, or throwout bearing?)

Tough to push and staying down doesn't sound like needs bleeding..

[Blade]

hyd throw out bearing. I am going to look for the rod maybe came out of the master cylinder, or something in that area.