Blade's 33 build

[Blade]

well, upon further review it seems like there is something wrong with the hyd throw out bearing. Operated the clutch slowly in the quiet this morning,sounded like a squish sound and then 10inch circle of hyd fluid appeared. Dang it. I have to wait a couple days to have access to a lift but it can be one of two things. Either the hyd lines came loose from the throw out bearing,that would be good news, or the bearing itself blew out from being hyper extended( this I suspect). Now trying to explore how difficult it is to move the tko600 back enough to remove the blown bearing. My tunnel has a cut out from the shifter hole rearwards, covered with a tunnel piece attached with pop rivets. If this works its got to be better than pulling the motor.

[RoadRacer]

Ugh, tough break. I was pretty worried for my first few miles..

[J R Jones]

The common issue with a fresh build is the internal flex line coming in contact with the clutch and an abrasion / leak.
If there is an inspection port you might see it with a flashlight.
jim

[33fromSD]

Damn, Sorry to hear this.

This was actually the reason I chose hydraulic slave cylinder on the side of my T5 verses hydraulic throw out bearing. I didn't want to have to remove tranny or in some cases engine / tranny to get to the throw out bearing if I had hydraulic issues.

Hopefully it's a line and you can access it to repair it, good luck.

Jim

[Blade]

thanks Jim, there is a positive note here. My 33 was suppose to be at the upholstery shop already but, for a number of delays it hadn't gone down to the shop. So, as a result the molded carpet wasn't in. If it was finished I wouldn't be able to open the trans tunnel so I can slide the trans back to access the hyd throw out bearing,that's good news. The other thing is I was planning on going to the Turkey Rod Run in Daytona this year, I'm kinda glad this happened here and not on 75 south somewhere. I'm pretty sure the problem with the HTO was mine, I did hyper-extend the bearing because of a lack of clutch pedal stop. I never did install a stop...my bad. will look for options to include one.

[FF33rod]

Watching, I have a leak there too but not nearly as bad as you describe.
The bolts holding the drive shaft to the rear have loctite on them so a blow torch on each is needed to get them removed.
I'll be doing this over the winter as well, will replace with an external slave I think.
Be careful with the pilot bearing when pulling and replacing the tranny. I unknowingly squished it when pulling things apart when the engine blew last winter. Took awhile to figure out why the tranny wasn't inserting properly...

Good luck
Steve

[Blade]

Thanks Steve, good advice, I have gone over the steps in my mind, I'm sure there will be stuff that changes all that. I think I will buy a pilot bearing now,can't hurt.

[Blade]

well I finally got my rod back from upholstery shop. He did a fine job. The headliner is padded and in suede. He put some reliefs in to break up the field,I like it. The aluminum door panels were too hard to work with, were not fitting good, so he replaced them and used suede and vinyl to cover the new panels. I'll show you the waterfall in another couple of days, man it came out way cool. another look at the door panel.jpgdoor panel.jpgback from upholstery shop.jpg

[Blade]

Attachment 159115 the head liner. Monday we are putting in the door glass, windshield and back glass will be installed by mobile glass guy. and the roof goes on. Just in case I don't get to it in the next day or so...MERRY CHRISTMAS

[Blade]

some pics of the waterfall,roof, windshield and back glass installation. I spent the last 2 days replacing the Hydromax throw out bearing. I can confirm that a tremec TKO 600 transmission can be removed without taking out the engine. It's a pain and a lift makes life grand.I've never seen anyone sand a windshield before today. Joe didn't like the way the glass fit so he worked on it. best $200 I've ever spent. the pic showing the back of the roof inside, doesn't show the padded piece that covers the bolts and ugly parts. waterfall full pic.jpgwaterfall before roof on.jpggetting the interior ready for finishing touches.jpgroof on and getting it aligned.jpgroof on.jpgwaterfall and inside roof.jpgwindshield in.jpg

[Blade]

short vid from today. side glass goes in tomorrow than it's coming home. still can't believe it.https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...ZlcxjbUMhgDw9w
oh by the way I know it's very dirty. will get that done tomorrow also.

[Blade]

well it's finally home. I have a couple minor things to do, but I'm pretty sure these cars are never really done. https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...ZSdG0NUrpsPJyg

[RoadRacer]

I don't know about anyone else but I can never view your google photo links. They just 404.

[Namrups]

404 for me too.

[HVACMAN]

I don't know about anyone else but I can never view your google photo links. They just 404.

Same here.

[33fromSD]

Same

Jim

[Blade]

thanks for the heads up. I think this will work. I finished the pass window and did a thorough walk around. fired right up with some smoke. It has been sitting without running for a while. it was 27 degrees out, let it warm up a bit, took it the local 100% fuel station 93 octane, added octane booster and cruised through town(it's not a big town, two lights) then up the highway. ran like crap for about 2 miles. I didn't push too hard and it started to clean up. Heater works awesome. Drove about 10 miles and the weather started to decline, went home shot this vid while the sun was out.https://youtu.be/J3hMRkPyVI0

[33fromSD]

Looks Great!!

Jim

[RoadRacer]

thanks for the heads up. I think this will work. I finished the pass window and did a thorough walk around. fired right up with some smoke. It has been sitting without running for a while. it was 27 degrees out, let it warm up a bit, took it the local 100% fuel station 93 octane, added octane booster and cruised through town(it's not a big town, two lights) then up the highway. ran like crap for about 2 miles. I didn't push too hard and it started to clean up. Heater works awesome. Drove about 10 miles and the weather started to decline, went home shot this vid while the sun was out.https://youtu.be/J3hMRkPyVI0

LOL at all those times you said it was "dirty". That thing is immaculate. I haven't washed mine for a year.

[Dduty]

some pics of the waterfall,roof, windshield and back glass installation. I spent the last 2 days replacing the Hydromax throw out bearing. I can confirm that a tremec TKO 600 transmission can be removed without taking out the engine. It's a pain and a lift makes life grand.I've never seen anyone sand a windshield before today. Joe didn't like the way the glass fit so he worked on it. best $200 I've ever spent. the pic showing the back of the roof inside, doesn't show the padded piece that covers the bolts and ugly parts. waterfall full pic.jpgwaterfall before roof on.jpggetting the interior ready for finishing touches.jpgroof on and getting it aligned.jpgroof on.jpgwaterfall and inside roof.jpgwindshield in.jpg

Interior is very nice! How is the waterfall attached to the body? Also I like the quick latch buttons on the trunk. I was thinking of using a single in the center but two look great. Would you have a photo of how the latch buckets are mounted in the trunk.

[Blade]

waterfall full pic.jpgwaterfall before roof on.jpgtrunk in dyna mat.jpgseal it.jpgtrunk latch left.jpgtrunk quik latch anchor right.jpg

I hope these pics help. I used mild steel and heat to shape them. They are thru bolted to the trunk floor and there is a piece of plate underneath to give it rigidity. The waterfall has a seal-it where the rollbar goes through. After the upholstery was done, I put the waterfall in place and the roll bar fit so tight, there's nothing holding it. It's just locked in place.

[Dduty]

Great photos and clean installations! Thanks

[Blade]

I just became aware that when I brake the white strip in the headlight comes on as well as the brake lights. If the headlights are on the white strip turns amber and lights up when brakes are depressed.for the recordassenger side
the wire colors from the RF harness are
black
brown
red
tan
light blue
wire colors from headlight LED

black
yellow
blue
red
green
I have looked back over the threads covering this topic and I'm kinda lost. I'm not sure where to start. Any thoughts guys?

[FF33rod]

Not sure if you're trying to use DRL or not...

Regardless, Tan for the park function shouldn't be used.

If no DRL function, then red and green on the LED light should go to the wire for the signal - (light blue)
Black goes to black, those are the grounds.
This leaves yellow and blue on the light for the high and low beams (Don't remember of the top of my head which is which)

Does that help at all?

Steve

[Blade]

Well, I did the wiring just as suggested. The bad news is the turn signals in the headlights still illuminate when brakes are depressed, the good news they are now amber instead of white...I like the amber better.

[Blade]

My next little issue is the upper links for the four link rear suspension make a awful squeak sound when driving. Anybody else experience this issue

[narly1]

some pics of the waterfall waterfall full pic.jpgwaterfall before roof on.jpg

I was just reviewing your entire build thread in a bit more detail.

Talk to me about your roll bar quick release set-up.

Thanks,

Earl

[33fromSD]

My next little issue is the upper links for the four link rear suspension make a awful squeak sound when driving. Anybody else experience this issue

I had to grind some material away on the upper links that attached to the diff housing. The links were binding and not allowing the joints to freely move. I caught mine during the build process but had I not, I can imagine it would've caused a awful squeak / shriek. at one point it was metal on metal.

May or may not be you issue but something worth checking. Check the links carefully, if you see bare metal anywhere from rubbing this is probably the cause for your noise.

Jim

[Blade]

seal it.jpg
what I did was, with waterfall removed put the roll bar into the mounts. I measured to make sure the roll bar was low enough to fit with the roof on.Then I drilled the holes for the pins supplied with the kit,I drilled them all he way through with roll bar in place. Then I took the roll bar out, and put the waterfall in place, I found I had to cut the mounting tube off as it hit the waterfall, keeping it from laying flat. I used a pointer fixed from above the mounting holes to locate where to drill the waterfall. Drilled those holes, then using a long angled scribe I placed it into the mounting tube and scratched a mark onto the waterfall from inside so I knew where to drill the pin holes in the waterfall.I installed the seal-it rubber seals over the roll bar holes and then I had a guy upholster the waterfall. when I got it back I just pushed the waterfall into place,slipped the roll bar into the holes and inserted the pins.

[narly1]

seal it.jpg
what I did was, with waterfall removed put the roll bar into the mounts. I measured to make sure the roll bar was low enough to fit with the roof on.Then I drilled the holes for the pins supplied with the kit,I drilled them all he way through with roll bar in place. Then I took the roll bar out, and put the waterfall in place, I found I had to cut the mounting tube off as it hit the waterfall, keeping it from laying flat. I used a pointer fixed from above the mounting holes to locate where to drill the waterfall. Drilled those holes, then using a long angled scribe I placed it into the mounting tube and scratched a mark onto the waterfall from inside so I knew where to drill the pin holes in the waterfall.I installed the seal-it rubber seals over the roll bar holes and then I had a guy upholster the waterfall. when I got it back I just pushed the waterfall into place,slipped the roll bar into the holes and inserted the pins.

Thanks! Wondering if one could use a fibreglass rotozip bit and just run it around the ID of the mount tube to make quick and easy work of cutting those holes.

Earl

[FF33rod]

Well, I did the wiring just as suggested. The bad news is the turn signals in the headlights still illuminate when brakes are depressed, the good news they are now amber instead of white...I like the amber better.

Ok, so next thing to check is that you cut the wires as outlined in the main hot rod instruction book. In my manual it's in the "Steering COlumn WIring" section.

Steve

[Blade]

Steve, you are the man. I was able to find those wires in a bundle under the dash and sure enough, didn't cut the green and white from the connector. No lights coming on when they shouldn't. thank you sir.
Dean

[Blade]

I've had this annoying noise from around the rear end area. I got the car up on stands and found the two upper links for the four link make a terrible noise when I depress the body. They don't seem to be rubbing anywhere. Any thoughts? I do plan to take them off one at a time and check for wear spots or other indicators.

[Ltngdrvr]

I've had this annoying noise from around the rear end area. I got the car up on stands and found the two upper links for the four link make a terrible noise when I depress the body. They don't seem to be rubbing anywhere. Any thoughts? I do plan to take them off one at a time and check for wear spots or other indicators.

Greased well?

[Brave Salmon]

I followed a similar route to cut the holes. Took out waterfall, put tape over the receivers for the roll bar and found exact center of the receiver. I then hung a laser pointer like a plumb bob pointing straight down into the taped receivers. I used a push pin into the ceiling to get the laser positioned perfectly vertical and made sure the dot was in the middle of the receiver. Replaced the waterfall and had a nice red dot on the waterfall to center the hole. I then used my 1.5" (i think) hole saw and drilled vertically through the waterfall. It worked perfectly and the hole was exactly where it needed to be. The tricky part was making certain the drill was plumb so the resulting holes were a bit oval because of the slope.

[HVACMAN]

I've had this annoying noise from around the rear end area. I got the car up on stands and found the two upper links for the four link make a terrible noise when I depress the body. They don't seem to be rubbing anywhere. Any thoughts? I do plan to take them off one at a time and check for wear spots or other indicators.

Check the clearance between the lower shock body and rear axle.

[Blade]

I took my car for a ride today. Sure was a beautiful day. This was my first attempt at video from inside. https://youtu.be/vluJEesQS6k

[narly1]

Nice! Waiting for the sequel that shows the huge crowd that gathers around when you stop and get out to get gas LOL.