I am wanting to build a type 65-r but I want to set it up with a auto trans with a ls with a turbo. my plan is to set it up for drag raceing in a class called true street. what do you all think
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I am wanting to build a type 65-r but I want to set it up with a auto trans with a ls with a turbo. my plan is to set it up for drag raceing in a class called true street. what do you all think
Welcome Fellow Dark Sider!
Check Out This Link:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ed-Coupe-Build
Also, reach out to NAZ because he's a fabricating phenom who will likely give you some great ideas on how to set things up.
The NAZ knows how to make a pass even while passing some gas, nitrous that is.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1042
Again, Welcome Fellow Dark Sider!
Last edited by GoDadGo; 08-13-2019 at 10:04 PM.
I like that car, it's the coolest one in the FFR stable. And I like drag racing but you should first read the NHRA rule book closely before you commit. The class you're looking at specifies that the chassis have an NHRA cert if running under 10-sec and that should be easily accomplished with a light car and a boosted LS. Don't want to take any wind out of your sails, just study the rules and be cautious when they use that phrase OEM. NHRA threw me a big curve ball when I tried to get my first chassis certified thinking that the FFR car was an OEM since it had a birth certificate (COO) and everything needed to get it titled and registered as a 1933 Ford in AZ. My registration even says it was first sold in 1933.
The rule book clearly states that you must weld your roll bar or roll cage to the OEM chassis where one is part of the car and so I did. But then NHRA spun-off with their chassis experts and ruled that my FFR 33HR chassis is not a Henry Ford OEM chassis, therefore, that passage in the rules didn't apply. And further, the FFR chassis is not NHRA compliant as a base for a roll bar because the square tubing was not 2"x2" minimum. Ended up cutting everything FFR off behind the firewall and started over with my own design chassis to comply with NHRA. I'm just promoting an abundance of caution before you commit. Had I to do it over I'd have just bought a body FFR or other brand and fabricated a chassis from the get go and been thousands ahead.
So you may have to do a lot of fabrication work to your new chassis to make it compliant with the rules. And make sure NMCA will consider your car an OEM so it fits in that class. But even if you get no joy from NMCA, you most definitely can make a FFR Coupe NHRA legal to run in Pro or Super Pro if you're willing to do some chassis fabrication. So don't give up the dream -- just understand the rules so you can comply.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
Naz thank you for all the info I if I have to do some fab ti make it legal I will. i am running in the no prep world right now and i see alot of rule bending in this class of true street so i am looking to bend some rules my self i will be j touch after i order.
Great! It'll be good to have another drag racer in the group.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build