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Thread: Coyote operating temperature

  1. #1
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    Coyote operating temperature

    I have seen several threads talking about coolant temperature but not my issue specifically for a coyote.

    My install is a gen 1 coyote with the moroso expansion tank and the correct ford hoses from the block and radiator. Also running a heater that has the bypass built into the valve so there is always flow.

    My history is the speedhut coolant gauge installed in the block always read 185 or so which sounds pretty normal.

    Follow recent work (front end off the motor, coolant drained, etc) that is no longer the case.

    My speedhut gauge and the coyote ECU inferred temperature warm up together within a couple degrees of each other. At someplace around 180 the thermostat starts opening. At 195 the fan kicks on and that's when things diverge. The inferred coolant T holds pretty steady at 195. Fan runs, everything looks fine. The speedhut gauge however continues heating up until it tops out at 215 or so. It seems to move around a little based on rpm, etc but is always warmer than the computer based T reading.

    Been through several heat cycles since refilling the coolant (refilled through the expansion tank). Based on the coolant flow / design I am under the impression that an air pocket is not likely since it is self purging? Expansion tank has coolant level in it. Confusing since the hot spot is down on the block (where most folks talk about an artificially low reading?) And I trust the gauge since they agree perfectly w each other until the end.

    No other signs of a hot motor - no overflow, no bad noises when I shut it off, etc.

    Thoughts?

    Greg Hevron

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I've personally not experienced that with either a Gen 2 or Gen 3. The Speedhut sensor always trails the CHT, and especially so when the thermostat opens. In now nearly 6,000 miles with my Gen 2, I've never seen the Speedut gauge over 85-90C. Usually it runs 80-85C. Sounds similar to what you saw before. You're right, the expansion setup should be self-purging and I wouldn't think an air pocket is the issue. Something doesn't seem right though. Thermostat? Blockage somewhere? Maybe the gauge or sending unit really aren't accurate, although you seem to think they are. Any chance to try to a different gauge? I'd sure what to know if that temp was real or not.
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  3. #3
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    From: FFR Manual - Roadster Coyote Engine Installation Instructions (Part Number: 15471 Revision:X Effective Date: 05/18/18), Cooling System, See Page 43

    "For air bleeding later, remove the 90° plastic coolant hose adapter to the left of the throttle body until coolant starts going up the tube then recap and hose clamp".

    Initial build - I removed both heater hoses and filled the coolant until coolant came out of both. Have never had a problem. Sounds like you do need to burp it.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    From: FFR Manual - Roadster Coyote Engine Installation Instructions (Part Number: 15471 Revision:X Effective Date: 05/18/18), Cooling System, See Page 43

    "For air bleeding later, remove the 90° plastic coolant hose adapter to the left of the throttle body until coolant starts going up the tube then recap and hose clamp".

    Initial build - I removed both heater hoses and filled the coolant until coolant came out of both. Have never had a problem. Sounds like you do need to burp it.
    Anything's possible. But the Factory Five instructions are based on their simplified open cooling system approach using a T-filler, gravity overflow tank, etc. The OP is describing using the Moroso (e.g. Mustang aftermarket) expansion tank and plumbing as a closed system the way Ford designed it. Same way I've done my Coyote builds and as I recall you did too. For that setup, the system purges air as a function of how it works. Nothing wrong with the Factory Five suggestion and doesn't hurt anything. Just not required for the OE style setup. In short, you fill the system through the expansion tank, run it to temperature, top off the tank and you're done.
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    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    From: FFR Manual - Roadster Coyote Engine Installation Instructions (Part Number: 15471 Revision:X Effective Date: 05/18/18), Cooling System, See Page 43

    "For air bleeding later, remove the 90° plastic coolant hose adapter to the left of the throttle body until coolant starts going up the tube then recap and hose clamp".

    Initial build - I removed both heater hoses and filled the coolant until coolant came out of both. Have never had a problem. Sounds like you do need to burp it.
    FWIW Gen 1 2013 engine I was always screwing around with the coolant using the FFR system. Never got it to where it would not dump fluid. Switched to the MOROSO system & have not added any in a few years. Just fill to a mid point on the tank. Run till hot let it cool & top up the tank to the required level. And Done.
    Kevin
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  7. #6
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Racked another 180+ miles on #9365 Friday night... all highway/Interstate, and with the exception of a few slowdowns nothing under 60mph.

    Temp gauge varied between 80C & about 87C. High spots were traffic backups after highway running at 2K+ RPM.

    I'm running the FFR supplied radiator & fan, and using the Breeze shroud. The Coyote computer is controlling the fan (which seems to run about 90% when the engine's up to temp). The coolant "auxiliaries" are the FFR heater (w/ full-flow bypass), the Ford "Turtle" overflow reservoir, and the genuine Ford bypass hoses to/from the turtle.

    The "turtle" is mounted on the front 3/4" crosstube, just low enough for the cap to clear the hood. I never went through any "procedure" when filling the system prior to 1st start, just poured 3 gallons in via the the overflow, opened the heater valve, had another gallon on ready-reserve, and fired it up.

    Even on initial start the temp has never passed 90C.
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  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Racked another 180+ miles on #9365 Friday night... all highway/Interstate, and with the exception of a few slowdowns nothing under 60mph.

    Temp gauge varied between 80C & about 87C. High spots were traffic backups after highway running at 2K+ RPM.

    I'm running the FFR supplied radiator & fan, and using the Breeze shroud. The Coyote computer is controlling the fan (which seems to run about 90% when the engine's up to temp). The coolant "auxiliaries" are the FFR heater (w/ full-flow bypass), the Ford "Turtle" overflow reservoir, and the genuine Ford bypass hoses to/from the turtle.

    The "turtle" is mounted on the front 3/4" crosstube, just low enough for the cap to clear the hood. I never went through any "procedure" when filling the system prior to 1st start, just poured 3 gallons in via the the overflow, opened the heater valve, had another gallon on ready-reserve, and fired it up.

    Even on initial start the temp has never passed 90C.
    Exactly my experience for the first 1500 miles as well. Not sure if I need a flush or should try and verify the speed hut gauge. I would sure think temps of 225 or so would make noise. May try letting it come up to temperature without the radiator cap to see if it boils or not.

    Thanks
    Greg

  9. #8
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    You have the thin radiator to MOROSO tank hose in correctly? Its directional with a check valve in it thats why the FORD product is so expensive for a small diameter hose.

    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 08-17-2019 at 08:59 PM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  10. #9
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    Yeah - I would have to go look to verify but I was aware of the check back then so I sure think / hope so. Especially since it was fine originally.

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