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Thread: Alaskan '35 Truck with Coyote

  1. #1
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    Alaskan '35 Truck with Coyote

    Hi all! I have been lurking on this forum for years, wanting to build a roadster, but was resigned to building a hot rod because of my height (6'6"). I have sat in a few completed FFR cars over the years and was frustrated by the fit, and didn't "love" the hot rod enough to commit to it. When the truck kit was announced I literally lost sleep over it. I live in Alaska and I wasn't sure if I would fit or not, but I knew that if I did fit I would build one. It is beautiful. My wife gave me a thumbs up (do not overlook this very important step), I am fortunate enough to have the money and time to do it, and I flew down to Boston to visit the factory and see for myself if I could fit in the truck. The only truck there at the time was the brown truck, which was the very first prototype. I fit, but it was a little tight. Doable though, but I'd have to give up the clutch pedal for better drivability. Dave and the crew reassured me that the newer chassis has even more room and eliminated the crossbar behind the seat which opened it up even more. I pulled the trigger. I ordered a kit with a ready date of 9/14/19. Note, they actually said it could be done about 3 weeks after I put in my order but I didn't have my $$$ together for sure so I opted to push it back a month. Since I am up in Alaska I have to crate it and ship it through a number of different companies to get it up here. I can't do Stewart Transport unfortunately.

    Here is the summary of my order:

    '35 Truck Gen II Kit
    Satin Black Powdercoat
    Coyote Mounts
    Black Vinyl Bench (I'm planning some custom leather down the road)
    Deluxe Grille (no hood or sides or fenders)
    3 link rear suspension
    Platinum gauges
    Sound insulation kit
    EFI in tank fuel system
    Electric steering
    Hot Rod A/C Kit
    Coyote installation parts
    Stake Bed Components
    Wilwood Brakes front and rear
    Aluminum interior handles
    Koni double adjustable shocks
    8.8 Rear end
    Paintable tilt column
    Extra windshield glass (our roads are hard on windshields)
    Crated

    Mike Forte is putting together a package with the Gen3 Coyote (no more Gen2 motors left!) with an AOD for me. I haven't put in the order on that though, I have to wait for the dust to settle on the truck before I mention that it didn't technically come with an engine/trans. If everything goes well, I'm hoping to have the motor going in around Christmas when my dad will be visiting for a couple of weeks.

    I am fairly mechanically minded, but I have never taken on a project this big before. I am a junkie for big complicated projects though and I look at this as an excellent way to learn about every aspect of a vehicle. I also have a great team of mechanic buddies who can help fill in what I am lacking in knowledge. My last project was also ambitious, as I spent the last 3 years building our entire house from foundation to shingles on my own. House is done (hence the happy wife part) including a dedicated 40' shop for projects like this, and I am ready to take on my next project. Its gonna be a ripper. I'm going to go with matte black chassis and components with a body color of Sting Gray. It's a love/hate color, but I REALLY love it. Contemplating powder coating all of the aluminum panels matte black, but I need to see one in person again to see which panels will be visible with my own eyes.

    A couple of questions:

    Does the fitment of the Gen3 coyote match the Gen2 or should I expect some additional headaches?
    Does anyone have a list of the aluminum panels that are visible from the outside that would need powder coating?
    How much trimming should I expect to do on the aluminum panels on the truck kit? Everything I have read is about the hotrod and all of the headaches guys have getting the body level and straight without contacting any of the panels.
    Does anyone want to come up to Alaska and help? (Kidding... kind of.)

    I look forward to working through the build with everyone on this community. I don't have any builds/builders nearby so I will be leaning on you guys a lot. Happy trails!

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  3. #2

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    Since you're using a coyote and an automatic, you should consider a 6 speed 6R80 transmission. A little bigger than an AOD, but a much better transmission.

    https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-per...k/p/M9000PMCM/

    Where are you at in Alaska? It's a big place.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42
    FFR MII: Dart 427W, Momar 8 stack EFI, Tremeac TKO, IRS, Red with Ghost Flames, 600'ish HP.
    -- Gone, but never forgotten
    BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
    www.RacingTheExocet.com

  4. #3
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Also tall with an interest in the truck. I look forward to following along. Thanks in advance for posting your build.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    Since you're using a coyote and an automatic, you should consider a 6 speed 6R80 transmission. A little bigger than an AOD, but a much better transmission.

    https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-per...k/p/M9000PMCM/
    Thanks for the tip. I’m still doing my homework on AT options. I’m in Anchorage.
    Last edited by Alaskan; 08-17-2019 at 11:16 PM.

  6. #5
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    I’m hearing from FFR that they are still “sorting out the details” in fitting the GenIII Coyote in the hot rod or truck kits. Does anyone have any information on how much difference there is in terms of installing the GenIII vs GenII?

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskan View Post
    Iím hearing from FFR that they are still ďsorting out the detailsĒ in fitting the GenIII Coyote in the hot rod or truck kits. Does anyone have any information on how much difference there is in terms of installing the GenIII vs GenII?

    My understanding is the fuel rail is long and has a funky fitting on it . this makes a challenge at the firewall. Its NOT a showstopper. FFR has a Gen III in the Blue hot rod with the 32 nose.

    Otherwise wiring is different.But I am told easier, fuel system is different, but not a problem
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

  8. #7
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    The truck arrives on the ship this Sunday, and it will take a day or two for it to be offloaded and ready for me to pick up the crate. I have had a lot of time waiting for it to think about paint and color schemes, and my body/paint guy actually has time to get started almost right away. (one of the ONLY benefits of building a truck in the middle of nowhere is that there is nobody in line to get a paint job). I'm going to hold off until I go to SEMA next month to make sure I don't see any colors that knock me out, but after that I'm pretty much ready to go.

    My question is, what should I get done with the body on the chassis before I fit everything up and remove it for the body/paint guy to get started?

  9. #8
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    I’m getting ready to set in a 2015 Coyote and 6r80 transmission tomorrow. I understand, according to the build manual, that there is no room behind the block for bolts excessively sticking out. so that’s a little bit of a challenge when using the lift point behind the right rear head. I have an idea of what I’m going to do to get around this issue. I’ll let you know how it goes.

  10. #9
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    Picture1.png

    Today is the day! I don't want to hear any of you whining about your $1k-$2k Stewart Transportation bill... it cost me an arm and a leg to get this bad boy home.

  11. #10
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    Ouch, even McDonalds has the disclaimer “offer not valid in AK or HI”. That had to have been pricey. No complaining from the 48.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  12. #11
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    I used them and then cut the bolt off. It worked great. I purchased a flat lifting plate from Macs Tie down in case I need to remove again. Have to remove the intake.

  13. #12
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    The 6R80 would be a good choice as that is what is in the Mustangs and F150s. Ford Performance has a controls pack that integrates the control of the 6R80 transmission with that of the Coyote. Also consider, Lokar has a sport shifter for the 6R80 that should allow the paddle shift function to be performed by the sport shifter. That is the route I am taking with my Mustang restomod build.

    I need to keep an eye on the room to remove the lifting bracket bolts on the PS. I hope I will have the room to remove them to get the lifting bracket off. However that is not the only space issue, the CMCV valves on the back of the intake present a challenge when removing and installing the engine. I have removed the actuators for now, but will remove the intake for the final install.

    I find I am using the FF forums more to get information about 6R80 installs as there is more interest here than on the vintage mustang forum.

    You might consider buying a transmission at salvage to save a few bucks. I was lucky and bought an 2017 GT at auction to source my engine, transmission, and accessory drive from a donor vehicle. I would suggest you consider this route, but you already purchased the engine through Forte. Although the 2nd Gen Coyote is no longer manufactured, I believe there are vendors out there that still have inventory. Good luck, I will be interested in seeing your build progress.

  14. #13
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    1AC410EA-D7D6-45C3-A60A-9C322BE1230E.jpg5F2256CF-B66E-4D21-AF2D-185CA959EDDE.jpg845420BD-6DD0-40D2-A58D-6CB4956A1088.jpg845420BD-6DD0-40D2-A58D-6CB4956A1088.jpgAnd weíre off. Most of the inventory is done, the body is off, and Iíve got the rear end in along with the fuel tank. Seems like a few more threads on the bolts to catch the fuel tank straps would have made that a lot easier, but only after I finished it did I remember that I had read that advice in another thread. Overall Iím really happy with the quality of the parts and the instructions. Iím going to tackle the powder coating of the unpainted parts tomorrow. I know I have read that the ball joints were tack welded in to the front suspension parts, but the welds are a lot more substantial than tack welds and Iím thinking twice about trying to grind them out to push out the ball joints. I may try to clean the grease out with solvent and see how clean I can get them before taping them off and coating the parts with the ball joints in.
    Last edited by Alaskan; Yesterday at 02:45 AM.

  15. #14
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    FFR told me to clean out ball joints with brake clean then powder coat. I do not suggest removing the welds. Just my 2-cents worth.

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