I am trying to mount my rear splash guards and the PS is proving to be a challenge. Notice how the rail underneath protrudes quite a bit and creating a large gap at the top of the splash guard. The 90 degree bend on the splash guard on the edge makes it very inflexible so I don't think I can easily force it into place on one end without making it kick out on the other. The DS was not so bad by comparison. Did anyone else run into this? My first idea is to cut a slit above and below that rail at the bottom and then to straighten and re-bend the tab there which may allow it to sit more flush above it. I've decided to cover this side of all my splash guards with some of my leftover bedliner so I don't care so much about the powder coat getting torn up. Thoughts?
My advice is to knotch the splash guard to get the rest of it flush with the trunk aluminum. Make a little 90* alum piece for that knotched area to allow fastening of the splash guard to the steel tubing of the frame. fasten the new 90* piece to both the splash guard and the steel tubing. Put plenty of sealant in between the knotch and the steel and even the splash guard and trunk alum piece if you want to. That tape you're using looks good, but there's a lot of wind and water in that area at 70mph in the rain. Having that area tight and sealed (where the splash guard meets the trunk aluminum) will get you closer to achieving a dry trunk storage area.
You might also want to try to fasten that splash guard to the diagonal 3/4" steel frame of the car in addition to just the thin trunk aluminum. I used slightly longer rivets in that area to be able to fasten to both the alum and steel.
Looking Great!!
Last edited by DadofThree; 08-30-2019 at 10:32 AM.
Dave
Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
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My advice is to knotch the splash guard to get the rest of it flush with the trunk aluminum. Make a little 90* alum piece for that knotched area to allow fastening of the splash guard to the steel tubing of the frame. fasten the new 90* piece to both the splash guard and the steel tubing. Put plenty of sealant in between the knotch and the steel and even the splash guard and trunk alum piece if you want to. That tape you're using looks good, but there's a lot of wind and water in that area at 70mph in the rain. Having that area tight and sealed (where the splash guard meets the trunk aluminum) will get you closer to achieving a dry trunk storage area.
You might also want to try to fasten that splash guard to the diagonal 3/4" steel frame of the car in addition to just the thin trunk aluminum. I used slightly longer rivets in that area to be able to fasten to both the alum and steel.
Looking Great!!
Good idea, I had to make new tabs for the bottom of the front splash guards as well.
Not quite answering the OP question, but I anchored the lower half of the splash guard with a bracket to the frame. The mounting areas for the splash guard were uneven enough to not allow a good attachment. Rather than cutting and re-working the splash guard, I opted to keep the splash guard 90 deg. edge bend intact to maintain its rigidity and strength. I did both sides, although each side was a different design. Also made a more secure bracket for the lower outside edge attachment to the body fender. The finishing touch is Alex's wheel well liners.
And to open up the floodgates of opinions and second gassings, I have mine removable with NutCerts and machine screws (8-32 button or oval head if I remember right).
Edit: I just noticed that my splash guards may be mounted slightly forward of where yours are. (It seems to miss that welded structure that way). I don't know if that's right or wrong, but they fit.
Last edited by boat737; 08-30-2019 at 03:19 PM.
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Not quite answering the OP question, but I anchored the lower half of the splash guard with a bracket to the frame. The mounting areas for the splash guard were uneven enough to not allow a good attachment. Rather than cutting and re-working the splash guard, I opted to keep the splash guard 90 deg. edge bend intact to maintain its rigidity and strength. I did both sides, although each side was a different design. Also made a more secure bracket for the lower outside edge attachment to the body fender. The finishing touch is Alex's wheel well liners.
And to open up the floodgates of opinions and second gassings, I have mine removable with NutCerts and machine screws (8-32 button or oval head if I remember right).
Edit: I just noticed that my splash guards may be mounted slightly forward of where yours are. (It seems to miss that welded structure that way). I don't know if that's right or wrong, but they fit.
I should try moving it forward and see how it fits. I guess as long as there is plenty of clearance for the rear tires it doesn't make that much of a difference. I do plan to make them removable with nutserts if I can, same as I did on the front.