chevy engine

[GoDadGo]

To add to the SteveHsr's comments about headers, if you scoot the engine forward to the point where the centerline is where the exhaust exits the body (Side Pipe Exit) then Shoenfeld IMCA headers can be adapted to fit.

https://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/im...modified5.html

Small Block Chevy
#160-33
#161-33
#162-33

LS Series Small Block
#161-33 LS1
#162-33 LS1

I used their shorty version with some Fake Flow Masters to help me hang and align my drive-line and for Go-Kart Testing which you can see in the video below:

https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA

Currently I have a pair of the #161-33 (Standard SBC) but had to shorten the collectors and add side pipe flanges to attach them to the side pipes.

As an added plus to moving the engine forward, I have No Driveshaft Bind and some really nice ride height driveshaft angles with minimal in and out yoke movement since the drive shaft is a few inches longer than the standard Factory Five piece. I can also easily change all of my plugs and can even get to the bolts of the bell housing, but understand that you will likely end up with a 50/50 weight distribution if you do this. Personally I like the 50/50 foot print but I don't road race nor do I any auto crossing (Yet)!

Hope This Helps!

Steve

[Dennis]

Dennis, no matter what engine you decide to run look for a crate engine that fits your needs. I've built several engines (professionally and for myself) and even with the experience and all the special tools I can't build one for the price of a crate engine and you can get a crate engine with a warranty. While it takes me months to complete a custom engine you will likely find one that fits your needs and will ship out truck freight tomorrow. So in maybe 5-days depending on where you live, you can have an engine ready to install.

Sounds like good advice. Thanks.

[Dennis]

I had a 9-1 358 ci race engine left over from a NASCAR touring series I ran more than a few years back. I fabricated offset motor mounts and headers to position motor pretty close to where a SBF would sit in FF chassis. Only different parts from using a Ford were the bellhousing and Chevy style radiator. The transmission mounts landed right on the FF support and drive shaft length was very similar to that described for a Ford. I would contact some (there maybe more than a few)of the FF Roadster builders with LS engines regarding motor mounts and headers. There may be someone fabricating those for sale. Building your own results in nice sidepipe alignment!
You will have a really good selection of LS3 crate engines to chose from and easy to fit. My car is a Mark 3 finished (no frills, no carpet) and lives in Sacramento CA region. I used a a lot of racecar components (because I already owned them) as my donor. (Coleman spindles, Howe hubs, Sweet mfg steering, AP Racing brakes , Winters quick change rearend, and Advanced Racing Coil-overs). The engine was the easy part. You will find that to be the case with the LS install.

Thanks for the information and encouragement. I can't wait to get started.

[Dennis]

What is going on with this thread? I made two posts (to Naz and SteveHsr) that showed up after I made them, but are not there now. There was also another post from godadgo that is not there anymore. I am new to this, but this doesn't seem to be something I'm doing wrong.

[Dennis]

To add to the SteveHsr's comments about headers, if you scoot the engine forward to the point where the centerline is where the exhaust exits the body (Side Pipe Exit) then Shoenfeld IMCA headers can be adapted to fit.

https://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/im...modified5.html

Small Block Chevy
#160-33
#161-33
#162-33

LS Series Small Block
#161-33 LS1
#162-33 LS1

I used their shorty version with some Fake Flow Masters to help me hang and align my drive-line and for Go-Kart Testing which you can see in the video below:

https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA

Currently I have a pair of the #161-33 (Standard SBC) but had to shorten the collectors and add side pipe flanges to attach them to the side pipes.

As an added plus to moving the engine forward, I have No Driveshaft Bind and some really nice ride height driveshaft angles with minimal in and out yoke movement since the drive shaft is a few inches longer than the standard Factory Five piece. I can also easily change all of my plugs and can even get to the bolts of the bell housing, but understand that you will likely end up with a 50/50 weight distribution if you do this. Personally I like the 50/50 foot print but I don't road race nor do I any auto crossing (Yet)!

Hope This Helps!

Steve

I don't know what is going on. Now I see the three posts I couldn't see before. But now all the other posts are gone????? I wanted to thank your information. I have saved all these posts so I can access them later. Your youtubes are awesome!!!

[ptstew]

What is going on with this thread? I made two posts (to Naz and SteveHsr) that showed up after I made them, but are not there now. There was also another post from godadgo that is not there anymore. I am new to this, but this doesn't seem to be something I'm doing wrong.

When you get too many posts for one page you have to select the next page. Maybe that’s what you are seeing.

[Avalanche325]

I don't know what is going on. Now I see the three posts I couldn't see before. But now all the other posts are gone????? I wanted to thank your information. I have saved all these posts so I can access them later. Your youtubes are awesome!!!

It's the Chevy guys trying to take over.

[Dennis]

When you get too many posts for one page you have to select the next page. Maybe that’s what you are seeing.

That's it thanks.