Very Cool Parts

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Mk3 - frustrated with finding correct e-bake cables - stock rear drum from donor

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    4
    Post Thanks / Like

    Mk3 - frustrated with finding correct e-bake cables - stock rear drum from donor

    Hello everyone and please be patient....this is the first time in years that I've posted.
    I am revisiting the Mk3 build I started in 2007ish. The car was less than 1/2 done and in these days of home quarantine, I have some time.
    As the title says, I'm really frustrated. I am using a stock '89 Mustang donor rear end, drum brakes, parking brake lever and stock mustang cables.
    Mk3 instructions are not really clear and doesn't give this particular part of the build much detail. Years ago when the rear end was removed, cleaned up and painted with new drum shoes, etc, etc, etc I purchased new stock 5.0 1989 emergency brake cables. Fast forward and I'm at the point of connecting those cables up to the e-brake lever. With the e-brake cable stop mounted into the rear most bracket on the kit's frame, the cables are about 6" too long.

    Since it had been literally years since I purchased the cables, I decided to shorten them and solder on new ends to make them work. Well......one cable end worked and one didn't. When I yanked on the e-brake handle, the solder ball that I had put on, popped off. So...assuming the original cables must have been the wrong ones and since I wrecked one of the old ones when trying to solder ends on, I decide to purchase new, for a 1989 Mustang 5.0 with rear drums, e-brake cables. They're the same....too long. What is the fix for this?? I know you guys are all on Mk4s now so I'm looking for some Mk3 experience and advice. Thanks guys!!

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Heart of Dixie, Alabama
    Posts
    1,857
    Post Thanks / Like
    I shortened my cables by buying a Lowe's swagging tool. It cost about $25 and they have single and double cable crimp ons. Another tip, is to remove the plastic from the cable, clean and apply Loctite before crimping. I used bushing and bearing retainer Loctite, but feel red would be better than nothing. Hope this helps and gives you an option.

    If you want to try soldering again, try silver solder. Do not know if the cable can stand brazing. If you do either, I would submerge the cable in water, less the part you are working on.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    4
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Railroad. It would be nice if the correct cable could be purchased or the rear keeper for the cable shielding was further back.
    Anyway, I'm off to Lowe's and will give this shortening/crimping a try.
    Once again...thanks

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Heart of Dixie, Alabama
    Posts
    1,857
    Post Thanks / Like
    My cable ends have not slipped, but I would advise allowing time for the loctite to set up before using the e brake.

    good luck,
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Breeze

Visit our community sponsor