Street Rod Jim's 33 Hot Rod V2 #1143 Build - The Journey Begins

[FF33rod]

For your hood prop rod, why not use the FFR ball stud bracket mounted near the striker? that way you don't have store a loose prop rod somewhere else....

hood prop.jpg

Regarding the PPF on the rear fender, it doesn't seem to discolor and make the fender look different so I wouldn't be too concerned about that. If you can manage to get the whole fender done in one piece, go for it. A bit tricky due to the multi curves. But get it covered to somewhere near the top, it's surprising where those damn pebbles get.

Speaking of pebbles, one thing that surprised me is some stones getting in between the hood and the cowl - where you put the rubber stripping. Getting in the habit of opening the hood and checking after every ride...

[Mastertech5]

Hey Jim, I was having the same problem with my doors sagging. I leaned over one to get a tool on the car floor and noticed the main door bar move on the rear bracket. Once I tightened those 2 carriage bolts as tight as I could the doors stopped sagging. Find a friend that can do it for you because of your back. You need to hold the bar at the same time or it will move as you tighten the nuts. I also had to tighten the hinge bolts that go through the bushings twice as they settle in as you use the doors. I put white grease on all those bushings. Nice job on the car by the way! I've been watching since the beginning.

[Street Rod Jim]

For your hood prop rod, why not use the FFR ball stud bracket mounted near the striker? that way you don't have store a loose prop rod somewhere else....

hood prop.jpg

Regarding the PPF on the rear fender, it doesn't seem to discolor and make the fender look different so I wouldn't be too concerned about that. If you can manage to get the whole fender done in one piece, go for it. A bit tricky due to the multi curves. But get it covered to somewhere near the top, it's surprising where those damn pebbles get.

Speaking of pebbles, one thing that surprised me is some stones getting in between the hood and the cowl - where you put the rubber stripping. Getting in the habit of opening the hood and checking after every ride...

Wow, would have never thought pebbles would be up there... The "raised hood" does not have the same support ribs underneath. It is totally different. And the one that is there is super thin and would get in the way of the striker bracket that really does not fit there either. If I had the ribs of the original hood, I would have put it there to begin with.

We will see what the PPF company says. These fenders have lots of funky curves.

[Street Rod Jim]

Hey Jim, I was having the same problem with my doors sagging. I leaned over one to get a tool on the car floor and noticed the main door bar move on the rear bracket. Once I tightened those 2 carriage bolts as tight as I could the doors stopped sagging. Find a friend that can do it for you because of your back. You need to hold the bar at the same time or it will move as you tighten the nuts. I also had to tighten the hinge bolts that go through the bushings twice as they settle in as you use the doors. I put white grease on all those bushings. Nice job on the car by the way! I've been watching since the beginning.

I just bought a right angle pneumatic socket wrench. Hopefully that will do it without sanding. Not sure why it has taken so long to do this, but its been a rough year.....

[narly1]

For your hood prop rod, why not use the FFR ball stud bracket mounted near the striker? that way you don't have store a loose prop rod somewhere else....

Or replace the striker bolt (pin) altogether with a ball stud/washer/internally threaded standoff/ threaded rod.

You could then pop the ball end on the end of your prop rod on and off of the striker pin as needed.

Earl

[33fromSD]

Hey Jim, I was having the same problem with my doors sagging. I leaned over one to get a tool on the car floor and noticed the main door bar move on the rear bracket. Once I tightened those 2 carriage bolts as tight as I could the doors stopped sagging. Find a friend that can do it for you because of your back. You need to hold the bar at the same time or it will move as you tighten the nuts. I also had to tighten the hinge bolts that go through the bushings twice as they settle in as you use the doors. I put white grease on all those bushings. Nice job on the car by the way! I've been watching since the beginning.

You should also pin it, so you won't have to worry about the carriage bolts anymore. Get the door where you want it, then drill two or three 5/16" holes in the bracket a few inches apart from eachg other and then get 5/16" grade 8 hardware (bolt, washers, lock washer, & nut), install it in the holes you drilled and tighten it all up and you'll never have to worry about it again.

Jim

[Mastertech5]

About your engine ticking noise. I don't know if your rocker arms are new or the originals when you rebuilt the engine but LS rocker arms are somewhat known to have weak reunions where they pivot on the studs. It's possible that one may have started to fail resulting in excess play on that pushrod. You can buy upgraded aftermarket trunion replacements or one of your lifters may have started to collapse but I would check that all the stud nuts are torqued properly fiestas as you mentioned. They are what they call positive stop studs. There is a shoulder on them that the nuts torque against. You don't need to go through turning the engine to get each valve closed before tightening the nuts except when you first install the valvetrain. Just trying to help and return the favor of all your great videos!

[Street Rod Jim]

About your engine ticking noise. I don't know if your rocker arms are new or the originals when you rebuilt the engine but LS rocker arms are somewhat known to have weak reunions where they pivot on the studs. It's possible that one may have started to fail resulting in excess play on that pushrod. You can buy upgraded aftermarket trunion replacements or one of your lifters may have started to collapse but I would check that all the stud nuts are torqued properly fiestas as you mentioned. They are what they call positive stop studs. There is a shoulder on them that the nuts torque against. You don't need to go through turning the engine to get each valve closed before tightening the nuts except when you first install the valvetrain. Just trying to help and return the favor of all your great videos!

Just needed to drive it..... Who would have thought. LOL

[Street Rod Jim]

Factory Five 33 Hot Rod V2 - Doors, Clamps, Buff...

[Street Rod Jim]

Factory Five 33 Hot Rod V2 - Kit Car Talk With Street Rod Jim #6

[Street Rod Jim]

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[Street Rod Jim]

The Making of Street Rod Jim and the Music Video Wicked Game - Documentary

[Street Rod Jim]

Hello Everyone,


As this chapter comes to a close on the 33 Hot Rod, I will still be posting on my Youtube channel for Car Shows with the 33, Trailer info and hopefully soon the 1966 Ford Econoline van. Feel free to come along for the ride. If there are any videos still pertaining to being on this forum, I will definitely post them. The last year was a little tough, but I am turning a corner for the better. I want to say thanks to everyone for all the support, information and push to keep me going. If I end up doing a F9R, or other FFR car, I will start another thread. Thanks, again. Street Rod Jim

[Salty Chief 35]

Jim,
Great job, your car turned out awesome! Thank you again for taking the time to make these videos. They show that an “everyday Joe” can do this. Some of the “pros” or guys with a ton of experience make this look easy. You showed some of the real world problems and got through it. Best of luck on the van and I’m looking forward to following your F9 build.
Respectfully,
Jeremie

[Street Rod Jim]

Jim,
Great job, your car turned out awesome! Thank you again for taking the time to make these videos. They show that an “everyday Joe” can do this. Some of the “pros” or guys with a ton of experience make this look easy. You showed some of the real world problems and got through it. Best of luck on the van and I’m looking forward to following your F9 build.
Respectfully,
Jeremie

Thanks Jeremie.