A couple of questions

[CptRanger]

I have a few questions, well a lot more than I will pose atm. I had planned for my project to be done by now, but alas as all of you know real life got in the way. Anyway I have been putting together a list of stuff to get and budget for and here are a couple of questions for everyone.

Are the double adjustable shocks worth the price of the upgrade? Are there others out there, that people have used?

Will a tremec 6060 fit behind an LS in the 33? Is it something that will fit only with IRS? Is it even worth the effort over a tko600 just for the 6th gear?

Being a bigger guy 6ft 240 what seats are available, I do not like the look of the big and tall option from FFR. Nor do I like the racing variant that they offer.

Has anyone had the frame powder coated? What was the cost? I like the black, but may want a different color depending on my final paint scheme.

Brake upgrades, the willwood look nice, but do you really need them and are there other options that are just as good.

This car will not be a daily driver and will mostly be a weekend cruise car and for shows etc. The powerplant has not been set in stone, but I will probably go with either a 383 or 427 ls or lt.

Thanks
Cpt

[progmgr1]

I chose to have the frame powder coated after I made a number of welding add-ons and modifications. What I've discovered is that the cost of powder coating varies tremendously depending on where you live. Out here in the Peoples Republic of California there are many environmental regulations, fees and other costs that drive the price way up. I have had quotes ranging from $2K to $4K for the job, excluding the cost of the powder. I have seen on the forums that others have had their chassis done for less than $1000. I suggest you take a picture of the chassis to a local powder coating shop to get a quote that's valid for wherever you live. Keith

[NAZ]

Agree with Keith on the PC costs.

For the use you describe I would not go to the trouble or expense of adding double adjustable shocks, a different trans than supported by FFR, or Wilwood brakes (or their equivalent).

[Svtfreak]

I don't have much I can help on your exact questions but I will throw this in. Powder coating is hard to match paint colors. You can match the pint to the powder.coat but then you end up with a custom color that will be tough to match if needed later on. If you want your frame to match your paint perfectly and be easy to match for touch ups, you may want to paint it.

[CptRanger]

Well that cleared up a lot of stuff for me thanks.
So I have decided to go with a 3 link with the stock shocks and brake set up...For power combo since this is my first build of anything like it, I am going to go with the blueprint combo of a 383 and tko transmission with ac and alternator. This will give me at least one area that I wont have to think about and will let me run a hood and side panels if I want.

Running the combo is there any problems getting electric power steering hooked up to it? And does anyone know the max wheel and tire specs you can run on the car with full fenders?

Thanks
Cpt

[JimLev]

I've got the electric steering option from FF, getting in and out of tight spots is a breeze. There is a wire you switch to 12 volts to turn it on, switch off and your back to no power steering which might be OK at highway speeds.

Powder coating the chassis, I bought this option from FF when it was a 1/2 price option, $399.

[JOP33]

You are probably not going to beat FFR's pricing on powder coated chassis, with that being said you will have to live with the welds as they dress them. In this area powder runs $1000 - $1500 depending on color & process. The web of a design on the tubed chassis makes blasting and coating time consuming (= $$).

[peterh226]

I’ve got the full fenders, blueprint 383 with EFI and the TREMEC TKO. I got the wilwoods as they just look really cool. I’m sorting through tires and wheels right now. There are so many combinations it makes your head spin. I’m thinking 17 front and 18 rear. 245 fronts and 295 rear. I’m thinking I will mount the body again to see how the 3 link and body with fenders clamped-on fit. I want the big tire look, but don’t want them to rub. Wheel backspace is the other factor to figure out. I’ll feel better when I can measure it myself.

All sorts of fun choices and lots to play with once you get going!

[NAZ]

For wheels & tires I can tell you what fit my Gen-1 with the full rear fenders (I ran bike fenders on front so can't help there). On the rear under full fenders I had Toyo Proxes R88 315/30ZR18 mounted on American Racing TorqThrust II VN8158965 wheels 18"x10"x5.74" BS. Tires measured 25.2" diameter and 12.4" section width. There was plenty of room. Rear axle was Mustang width: 59" (actually 59 15/16" hub to hub). No spacers, no rubbing, no problem.

[Kamp]

I would go with the TKO. The T56 though stronger is longer and weighs more. I have the T56 in a 32 (auto in my FFR 33) and even with a 3.5 rear gear you have to be going 65-70MPH for the engine to be happy in 6th and I am running an LS7 in it. A little less $ as well.

[peterh226]

Thanks! That helps confirm the rear's. I'm looking at the Chrome Torq Thrust M but need to check the backspace and 'offset' at these 18x10 have 6.44BS with 24MM offset. How do you like PVD vs Chrome?

[NAZ]

Peter, my wheels are gloss black on the inside which really looks cool on the front (can't see the inside of the rears) and have a very very subtle black tint over the polished aluminum on the outside. Too bad you're not close by to see them (and I'd sell them to you if you liked them -- I keep tripping over them).

[progmgr1]

I'm running the FFR rear fenders and Dan Ruth's front fenders. Tires are BFG G-Force Comp 2 A/S: 245/45-18 front, 305/35-20 rear. Wheels are 18x8 front and 20x10 rear, both with 4" backspace. However, I'm using the 2015 Mustang IRS, which may affect the backspace. Keith HR#894