Traveller's Mk4 Coyote IRS Build - Brake Reservoir

[Traveller]

As I moved on to the trunk aluminum, I decided to do the drop trunk mod. Russ Thompson's kit is very nice and was pretty easy to assemble and fit.

My order of operations was:
1) Assembled the box and cleco'd it together.
2) Cut out the hole in the trunk panel per the kit instructions.
3) Centered the hole of the panel over the box and drilled / cleco'd together.
4) Traced the inside of the box opening onto the trunk floor panel and trimmed off the excess around the opening.
5) Remove the box from the floor panel and put the floor panel back onto the chassis.
6) Trace all diagonal braces onto the floor panel and remove it from the chassis.
7) Transfer the marks for the diagonal braces to the drop trunk box and extend down 3/4".
8) Cut out the notches, fit, and file.




Very happy with the result. The drop trunk kit from Russ very nice indeed.

- Jason

[Traveller]

I'm done with the rear end aluminum and there is a significant (maybe 1/2") where the bottom lip of the lower trunk floor panel extends rearward past the side panels on the trunk. Is this normal? Does it need to be trimmed? All panels seem to be properly positioned.




Thanks!
- Jason

[Traveller]

You don't want/need the standard kit clutch switch with the Coyote. The control pack comes with a different switch that plugs into the control pack harness. It's installed up on the pedal box on the modified clutch quadrant if you're using the Factory Five modified cable setup. Factory Five supplies the necessary mounting pieces on their Coyote completion kit. If you're doing a hydraulic clutch, the pieces can be modified to still work. Several build threads including mine show some ways to do that.

Yes, I've had to trim a little along the transmission tunnel. But not quite that much. Make sure you have the floor sheeting flat on the frame and everything else fitted before cutting anything.

Thanks. I'll ditch that switch and get the other installed. And, yes - I made sure all panels were well seated before trimming.

Thanks again!
Jason

[Traveller]

I had to trim my tunnel sides just slightly to get them flush. I don't recall trimming any other panels. I'd check and double check fitment before trimming. On the calipers, I had the same issue with paint. Just take care when bleeding, as the bleeder screws can be loose in those calipers and let fluid out that will ruin your paint job. I just ended up not painting the bleeder pad.

Thanks. I probably fitted all panels 5 times to make sure positioning was proper before trimming. Now that they are trimmed, everything seems well aligned.

Thanks again,
- Jason

[Traveller]

Time to get caught up on the build thread...

Once the drop trunk was completed, I expanded the access hole and made a new cover to give easier access to the fuel pump as is recommended by many.

It appears that expanding the hole forward and to the right is what is needed:


Cut the hole, filed the smooth and drilled holes for rivnuts:


Traced the opening onto a scrap piece of aluminum and added border for the new cover plate:


And voilà:

[Traveller]

My plan has always been to send out all panels and unfinished steel parts for powder coating, and have previously sent all the brackets I could find to be coated. The aluminum panels will go shortly.

However, as an impulse buy I picked up the cheap harbor freight powder coat kit just for kicks and I have been furiously coating all kinds of small parts ever since, including the couplers used for the Kleiner rear quick jack mod and the bracket that holds the fuel filler tube to the tank:




I have been pleased with how the parts turn out. Nice setup for quickly coating those random bits.

[GoDadGo]

I love roasted peanuts, baked pecans and toasted almonds, but how do roasted coupler nuts taste?

Looking Good & Love The Ingenuity!

[Traveller]

I finally got around to finishing fitting and drilling the foot boxes, so I am DONE with the fitting and drilling of all panels. Yah!!!






Question - in the final picture, notice that there is about a 1/4" gap running along the top back of the driver footbox. I triple checked and the panel could NOT be moved back any further due to other hard mount points and aligning the bend further forward with the other panels. Is this normal? If not, I'll probably simply fill this space with some weather stripping.

thanks!
Jason

[Traveller]

Now that all drilling and fitting is done, I scuffed up all aluminum panels and cleaned them well with acetone.


Then off to the powder coater. I chose a color they call "Outerspace" which is a charcoal grey with some lighter silver specks in it. I was going to only send those panels which are visible, but in the end just sent everything. 48 hours later, look what I have:



So I did some assembly of the panels and did my first permanent attaching! Feels like progress...

[Traveller]

Moving on, I finished up the pedal box and started installing the coyote throttle pedal. After trimming according to the instructions, I found the steering shaft was hitting and preventing the pedal from mounting correctly. I saw other posts where this is fairly common, so I had to do some aggressive trimming around the mounting ears (especially the top one) to make it fit.


I saw a post by Hacksaw84 where he made a new pedal pad which matched the other Wilwood pads and I liked it better than the OEM pad (shown in the first pic below).
Here is the link to Hacksaw's original mod.

I ordered two Wilwood pads off Amazon, trimmed them and mounted them to the coyote pedal arm. I am happy with the results.

[Traveller]

And now for a brief intermission from our regular programming...

This weekend one of my sons and I made a road trip to hit a few museums including the US Air Force Museum (amazing!), and the Gilmore Car Museum. Although the Gilmore Museum is only an hour away from my house, I've never actually made it there until now. Among all the incredible cars they have sits this beauty:





It is an original Cobra, but I don't believe it is an S/C as indicated in the signage.

If you are ever in the area, it's definitely worth a visit.

[Traveller]

I installed the Breeze front mount battery tray. Very nice piece with excellent instructions.

[Traveller]

I've held off ordering my headers and side pipes until now, but given the 4-6 week lead time and my hope that I will make good progress over the next month or two, I contacted Georgie at Gas-N and ordered the headers in natural stainless and the side pipes in polished finish. Can't wait to receive these.

[Traveller]

I love roasted peanuts, baked pecans and toasted almonds, but how do roasted coupler nuts taste?

Looking Good & Love The Ingenuity!

Tasty, but careful to not chip a tooth...

[Straversi]

.

Looking good. I had read in several builds that it was worthwhile to replace the gasket between fuel tank and filler neck that comes with the kit with an OEM gasket from Ford. That proved to be good advice since the kit gasket started leaking right away and I had the OEM gasket on hand. Ford Part # F4ZZ-9072-DA

-Steve

[Traveller]

Looking good. I had read in several builds that it was worthwhile to replace the gasket between fuel tank and filler neck that comes with the kit with an OEM gasket from Ford. That proved to be good advice since the kit gasket started leaking right away and I had the OEM gasket on hand. Ford Part # F4ZZ-9072-DA

-Steve

Steve - thank you for the suggestion. I too stumbled across that recommendation and ordered and installed the Ford OEM part. Trying to learn from others experiences as much as I can...

[Traveller]

For now I am sticking with a single brake reservoir and using the FFR supplied one. I fabricated a mount from aluminum and powder coated it. I am happy with the results:

[Hacksaw84]

Moving on, I finished up the pedal box and started installing the coyote throttle pedal. After trimming according to the instructions, I found the steering shaft was hitting and preventing the pedal from mounting correctly. I saw other posts where this is fairly common, so I had to do some aggressive trimming around the mounting ears (especially the top one) to make it fit.


I saw a post by Hacksaw84 where he made a new pedal pad which matched the other Wilwood pads and I liked it better than the OEM pad (shown in the first pic below).
Here is the link to Hacksaw's original mod.

I ordered two Wilwood pads off Amazon, trimmed them and mounted them to the coyote pedal arm. I am happy with the results.

Looking good man, appreciate the shout out. I did end up trimming the corner a little after the panel was on. Just to be sure I had complete clearance.

Michael