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Hiding Wires under dash
What do people do to hide the wires coming up from the transmission tunnel going up to the dash? I am thinking you will be able to see them when you are sitting in the car so I would like to make them a bit cleaner.
Also what do people do with wires that are not being used but may be used in the future (heater/radio for example)? Do I need to cover the ends or do something else with them for safety purposes?
Ryan
33 Hot Rod
350 SBC with TKO 500, 3 link rear
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At the very top of the tunnel cover I cut a slot for the wires to come up thru. The corrugated covering is black and doesn't show unless you stick your head down low.
For the unused wires I pulled the ones out I will never use. The others I put a butt splice on and taped them up.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
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I'll be building a console what will go up to under the dash and cover that area. That will be where my ac controls will be housed.
The unused wires, especially ones that could have +12, the ends need to be covered at minimum with electrical tape to prevent accidental grounding. Ideally, there are some crim caps that will give a better covering. Or, can shrink wrap them up. Any way to cover the end to ensure it won't contact ground.
Last edited by Svtfreak; 09-06-2019 at 07:41 AM.
'33 Hot Rod
Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18
MK4 Roadster
Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.
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Senior Member
You can always pull the fuse for an unused circuit too.
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
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Seasoned Citizen
I try to eliminate wires that I don't ever plan to use but there are times when I may want to keep a wire because or a pre-planed enhancement I'm going to install down the road. In those cases I cut the wire clean so no strands are exposed and use heat shrink tubing on the end and ~1/2" past the bitter end. I use a type of heat shrink wire label that works on a Dymo wire label maker. I'll print either where the wire comes from (i.e. Fuse Box 1, Fuse 6) or what the circuit is intended for. The heat shrink insulates the wire and labels it for future reference.
https://www.amazon.com/DYMO-RHINO-La...oducts&sr=1-12
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build:
33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
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Senior Member
If I had it to do again, I think I would use something like this...
https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/ca...wall-Wire-Port
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @
https://starmobileone.com/
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Another vote for heat shrinking a little past the end of the wire. In addition, use pliers to crimp the over hanging heat shrink while still hot. Seals it up and looks neat.
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Ryan
33 Hot Rod
350 SBC with TKO 500, 3 link rear