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Thread: Knees and dash question

  1. #1
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    Knees and dash question

    My kit arrives in 3 weeks and while I know I do fit in the truck, I also know it’s going to be a tight fit and I’m thinking about creative ways to open up the cockpit for my 6’6” frame. Headroom is fine, width is fine, but my knees are pretty close to the dash. Thinking about the dash, i am wondering how much I could shave off the bottom of the dash or roll it back where my knees fit. I forgot to look behind the bottom of the dash to see what components were tucked in behind that area below the steering column when I visited the showroom truck at the factory. Are there any steps that I can plan on taking now to clear out that area and let my fiberglass guy try to roll back the dash or cut it up a little for more room? Note, this was the brown prototype truck, and the production trucks have the bar removed from the back of the cage so that will allow about 1-1.5 more valuable inches front to back.

    25D2D6C1-C6E7-46EA-A8BB-DD0C29F5E061.jpeg

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Here's a couple pictures that might help. Think if you were creative you could move forward 1.5" or so. The framework for the pedals will limit you. Also what you do with some of the other items will affect. I moved the drier and heater valve inside to keep engine bay clean so had to move AC to the middle. If you do something different there is a ton of room in middle to play with. You could raise the bottom of dash an inch or so. I'm in the middle of painting mine but the dash goes down over the steering column about an inch. You could raise that up a bit and re-glass the lip underneath to make it look correct again. I'll shoot you some pictures with dash installed to show fit when I get it finished tomorrow. Good luck!

    Dash 1.jpgDash 2.jpg

  3. #3
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    I needed more foot room so I pushed the floorboard on the driver's side forward 4" from the plane of the firewall. You can see the bulge just behind the header in the attached photo. Since the truck chassis is similar to the Hot Rod I expect you could do something similar. But what would be even more cool is to order another cab and make your truck into a crew cab.

    If you need ideas on how to make your project more expensive and take longer to build just PM me, I'll help you spend your time and money.

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    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

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  5. #4
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    Check out my Hawaii 35 Ford hot rod build thread, I am 6'1" and have done multiple things to make the truck comfortable for a daily driver. Also recently ( not posted yet) I took apart the bench seat and shaved the foam bottom and re-welded the back of the seat to gain 1 more inch....i took out the round bar and welded in a flat bar for the back top of the seat frame......, I also raised the seat 3.5", moved the pedal box 2" into the firewall, and lowered the pedals.

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