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Thread: Accelerator pedal question

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    Member UpNorth's Avatar
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    Accelerator pedal question

    Hi all,

    Been scratching my head a lot this afternoon trying to figure out how to install the loud pedal.
    My gen3 will be equipped with a 347 f.i. from BluePrint. So I am installing a pedal with a good old wire to the Sniper f.i.
    But I could not figure out how/where to install/bolt the pedal so it could clear the steering column, brake pedal and firewall to its right.
    Does someone has pic of what he did? The assembly manual seems ill equipped on this.
    TIA

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    UpNorth,
    For one custom design solution (for the Ford Mustang digital Accel Pedal) check my build thread "Bob's Arizona Gen 3 Coupe Build Thread". There may be similarities you might be able to use for a cable system. The last few posts of mine address this exact issue with my design. Just yesterday I finished up the fabrication and installation and will post the last photos and comments in a day or so.
    FYI, decades ago I spent some time in Quebec City during "Winter Carnival Week", even staying at the magnificent Hotel Frontenac.
    Bob

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    I don't have any good pictures. I used the kit pedal and Forte mechanical linkage but this does not change how the pedal mounts. I did not use the existing holes in the frame. It took a while to find a location that fit between the steering shaft and the foot box wall and then in my case adjust the pedal to push the linkage. I did start with the cable and it will fit but it took time and I used duct tape to hold the pedal in place as I tryed different locations.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

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    Member UpNorth's Avatar
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    Hi,

    Yes Bob I saw and read your very well documented thread and I wrote this one after.
    You have a ę digital Ľ pedal as I have an ę analog Ľ one so my concern is where does the cable can get out...?
    Thanks for the kind words about my city. If you liked it during the winter Carnival (hope the weather was not too brutal) you should come back for the summer music festival, it’s awesome!

    David, thanks for the information. So I understand that there is a small flaw in the design in that area of this kit and that we need to be imaginative to find our own solution. I guess it comes with it all...I’ll try to report back with my own solution in time.

    But if someone else can share a pic or two it would be very helpful.

    Thanks guys!

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    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    This is how I mounted mine.

    5710847F-4908-4BE5-8FFB-1595BB67A2DA.jpg


    How the cable gets routed to the Carb/ EFI I have no idea yet. Thatís my phone call to FFR for tomorrow because Iím at the at that point. Gotta finish making holes in the sheet metal before doing any finish work.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    This is how I mounted mine.

    5710847F-4908-4BE5-8FFB-1595BB67A2DA.jpg


    How the cable gets routed to the Carb/ EFI I have no idea yet. Thatís my phone call to FFR for tomorrow because Iím at the at that point. Gotta finish making holes in the sheet metal before doing any finish work.
    We are on the the same page. Thatís what made me go hmmmm...Steering shaft is is the way big time!
    On my side I sent an e-mail with pics at FFR. Letís share data after they respond!
    Thanks a lot!

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    Watching this thread closely as I am at the same point and have the same questions.

    P100DHG, did you disassemble your peddle? I had to in order to get the lower arm on the right side of the pivot bearing.

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    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadsden View Post
    Watching this thread closely as I am at the same point and have the same questions.

    P100DHG, did you disassemble your peddle? I had to in order to get the lower arm on the right side of the pivot bearing.
    I remember disassembling it and realizing it can't be flipped. Maybe I changed the pivot angle but without disassembling it. That's how I remember it anyway. I disassembled it for sure attempting to do that. I don't remember how it came out of the box... Sorry.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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    Sorry, don't have a better pic but here is where my cable exits. I drilled through the metal that supports the steering shaft similar to how a few others have done. I was able to position the throttle pedal so the arm just clears the steering shaft and brake pedal but there's not a lot of room.

    Throttle Cable.jpg

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    I disassembled it and put the arm on the right side so it fits between the steering shaft and the foot box wall. I also have it mounted higher up on the frame. But I don't have the cable so it is not exactly the same. Trying to route the cable and the connection to the FiTech is why I changed to Forte linkage.
    It sure looks like the car is really designed for the Coyote "fly by wire" pedal
    David W
    Last edited by David Williamson; 09-09-2019 at 08:38 AM.
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuftster View Post
    Sorry, don't have a better pic but here is where my cable exits. I drilled through the metal that supports the steering shaft similar to how a few others have done. I was able to position the throttle pedal so the arm just clears the steering shaft and brake pedal but there's not a lot of room.

    Throttle Cable.jpg
    Ok, that looks like an option! Thanks! But isn't the pedal too high for comfort?

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Williamson View Post
    I disassembled it and put the arm on the right side so it fits between the steering shaft and the foot box wall. I also have it mounted higher up on the frame. But I don't have the cable so it is not exactly the same. Trying to route the cable and the connection to the FiTech is why I changed to Forte linkage.
    It sure looks like the car is really designed for the Coyote "fly by wire" pedal
    David W
    Thanks Dave,

    I really wonder where the arm could fit between the fire wall and the steering shaft?IMG_2299.jpg

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    UpNorth,

    Compare your peddle assembly to the picture in the manual. If your peddle came like mine did, I think you will see that what you have does not match the picture in the manual. If you swap the side of the pivot bearing that the lower control arm attaches to, that will shift the upper arm to the left and clear the steering shaft better.

    Hope this makes sense and we are talking about the same clash point.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadsden View Post
    UpNorth,

    Compare your peddle assembly to the picture in the manual. If your peddle came like mine did, I think you will see that what you have does not match the picture in the manual. If you swap the side of the pivot bearing that the lower control arm attaches to, that will shift the upper arm to the left and clear the steering shaft better.

    Hope this makes sense and we are talking about the same clash point.
    Hi Gadsden,

    See attached pic. My upper arm is on the left side. Ball stud is on the right side of the arm.IMG_2301.jpg

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    Here's my cable setup details.

    I spent a lot of time thinking about this, mocking it up, etc.

    The key was to use a Lokar cable with a 'centered' attachment point- it uses a pin and 2 circlips to attach to the pedal arm. This gives extra clearance to the brake pedal arm and the steering shaft.

    That, and I bent an angle near the end of the gas pedal arm.

    My considerations in doing these things were: the gas pedal in relation to the brake pedal (for heel-toe downshift/throttle blipping) and that the throttle cable exit the footbox through a section of steel near the steering shaft bearing. I did not want to have it exit through just the aluminum although to reinforce it would be easy.

    I also mounted my carburetor backwards so that the throttle cable is in a nice arc as opposed to some 'S' shape.

    The setup works very well with about 5k miles on it and my first HPDE was last weekend at Sonoma Raceway- no issues.

    Dave
    Gen III Coupe #17
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Member UpNorth's Avatar
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    Dave,

    Thanks a lot for these pics!
    Gives me a good idea what I could do.

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    Very timely and helpful thread! Things make a lot more sense now!

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    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Is the go pedal set up in the Gen 3 Coupe radically different, then what had been done in the previous models?
    Perhaps this area wasn't thought out very well by FFR, with what package they included in the way of a throttle pedal. Might want to look at how it was done previously. Sometimes doing it old school is better.

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    Good point AC Bill,

    Anyone with pics from previous build?

    As for my question directly to FFR the answer I got is:

    ęSince the pedal position is partially discretionary on the
    driver/builders preference, you will want to place it however you wish
    based on the other pedals Ľ
    Last edited by UpNorth; 09-10-2019 at 05:08 PM. Reason: Answer from FFR

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    Here's what I did on my Gen2 Coupe:
    From here:
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post289297

    Pasted below:

    I ended up using the gas pedal that came with the kit, but only after a few modifications. I trimmed the edges of the pedal to make it a rectangle instead of a parallelogram to fit in the foot box better. I put a bolt through the pedal to keep it from pivoting on the spring where the pedal mounts to the arm. I also created a piece out of aluminum to mount it and double as a pedal stop. Lastly, I had read a few posts about this pedal breaking off from the mount at the spot weld points. I ended up taking the metal that was supposed to be used for the AC drier mount and wrapped it around the pivot point and mount. I then JB welded it and drilled holes in it to match the mount, then painted it over. Seems like that should hold now.

    I didn't like the throttle cable/mount that came with the kit, so I ended up getting the Lokar TC-1000U48 48" Universal Throttle Cable. This gives plenty of length to have gentle bends in the engine and also doesn't use a pivot ball to mount to the pedal. It goes right through the hole in the pedal and makes it easier to mount the pedal straight up and down instead of at some strange angle to meet the hole in the firewall.



    You can see how the Lokar cable attaches to the upper arm. Used the middle hole in the upper arm to desensitize the pedal a little and put the pedal at the height I wanted.


    You can see the screw keeping the pedal from pivoting where the pedal mounts to the arm.


    Pedal to the metal.


    If you look close, you can see the piece I put around to strengthen up the welds.


    -Matt

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    Member UpNorth's Avatar
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    Wow Matt!
    Lots of interesting info here, thanks!

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    FF153BBD-439B-4303-A5AD-825C7756323E.jpgSo I finally did install my gas pedal see pic here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by UpNorth View Post
    FF153BBD-439B-4303-A5AD-825C7756323E.jpgSo I finally did install my gas pedal see pic here.
    UpNorth,

    It looks like you used and existing hole for your lower bolt hole. Is that correct?

    Also, from the pic, it looks like the top or your assembly is lower than the cable hole in the front. I see your cable mount is angled, but are you getting a pretty straight pull of the cable from the front panel? if you can get a pic, i would like to see where you ended up.

    Thanks!!

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    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Is that cable angled upward at quite an angle to pass through the firewall, or just some kind of illusion, from the angle the picture was taken at?

    If it is at a sharp an angle as it appears,, hate to say it, but I bet it will start to fray before long. Better keep it well lubed. Even then, there has been the odd case of where the cable housing end gets a groove cut in it after awhile, from the cable sawing at it at an angle. This could cause the cable to stick/jam, and even the throttle return springs won't pull it free. You don't want that to happen just as your hard on the gas.

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    909D5F0C-4C37-471B-B04C-E734293BF6EF.jpg
    I did use the lower hole Gadsden.
    AC Bill, you can see from the attached pic the angle it has (sorry for the pic not being straight).
    If itís too much I could probably drill lower than the steering shaft.
    I did drill where it is now because I could attach the cable sheath to steel instead of aluminium making it more sturdy.
    Another possibility would be to delete the ball stud attachement and invert the cable to simply have the ę hammer style Ľ ending of the cable be retained by the pedal ending hole. This could permit to deploy more the accelerator arm higher so it could match more the firewall hole I drilled.
    Is that an option?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadsden View Post
    UpNorth,

    It looks like you used and existing hole for your lower bolt hole. Is that correct?

    Also, from the pic, it looks like the top or your assembly is lower than the cable hole in the front. I see your cable mount is angled, but are you getting a pretty straight pull of the cable from the front panel? if you can get a pic, i would like to see where you ended up.

    Thanks!!
    Hello Fellow Canadian!!! Im in Waterloo Ontario. As per your picture, i installed mine with the same angle too. Sadly mine is through the aluminum only.

    Now my 289 already installed and the linkage connected (570 avenger Holley Carb) i can hear the cable ride along the housing of the cable. So where there is noise, there is friction. Im thinking that lube might help but i am having this uneasy feeling that i will need to re look at it again.

    Nelson

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    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    So I know there has been a lot of talk about the accelerator pedal in relationship to the throttle cable and the steering column and I’ve reached the point of figuring this out. I think I've come up with a clever idea. This is what I did and it accomplishes many goals, one is a straight back pull on the carb/EFI, second is a clean cable run and finally it causes zero interference with the steering column in fact it avoids the whole issue all together

    1. I drilled a 5/16 whole into the pedal mounting bracket a tight bend back toward the steeeing wheel. I have no issues with the cable’s movement.

    IMG_3714.jpg IMG_3715.jpg IMG_3717.jpeg

    2. I followed the rear brake line and entered the transmission tunnel

    IMG_3718.jpeg IMG_3719.jpeg

    3. I plan to pop out of this panel to make a straight back pull on my carb/EFI

    IMG_3720.jpeg

    The end result means I need to move the position of my throttle cable jobby thing on the other side of the pedal. The steering column is never an issue. Game, set, match.


    P.S. - If you hadn't noticed I am the worlds worst iPhone photographer. Literally the absolute worst. I apologize for the life of me I couldn't get the camera to focus.

    - Danny
    Last edited by P100DHG; 09-17-2019 at 11:20 AM.
    Gen 3 65 Coupe #138 - Order Date: Aug 2018 - Delivered: Feb 2019 - Engine: Roush 427SRE - P100DHG 65 Coupe Build Thread

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    Looks sharp!

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    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UpNorth View Post
    AC Bill, you can see from the attached pic the angle it has (sorry for the pic not being straight). If it’s too much I could probably drill lower than the steering shaft.
    I did drill where it is now because I could attach the cable sheath to steel instead of aluminium making it more sturdy.
    I'm pretty sure that angle of pull, is going to eventually create an issue. The straighter the pull you can, get the better. Running the cable through the aluminum shouldn't be an issue, as long as your cable moves freely, and there is no extremely tight bends in the housing that could cause added resistance. The aluminum is pretty stiff at that point, as it's so close to the steel backing, that the steering column bearing is attached to. Perhaps add flat washers to either side of the footbox where the cable end passes through it, for added stiffness.

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    For what it's worth, I found the Fast throttle cable bracket (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fst-304147) fits the Sniper unit in reverse so I can pull from the front side and avoid the sharp S-Bend pulling from the rear without having to turn the Sniper unit around. Haven't gotten to the point of running it yet but looks like this should work (unless anyone else points something out I'm missing).

    1.jpg

    2.jpg

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