Yes you can remove motor without tearing out radiator
Had so much difficulty getting nose just right ,I am not about to ever remove it. Have to pull mule motor to get tranny fixed, new high stall convertor and prep for new blueprint 347 fuelie. Also installing power brake booster from Whitby so now have lots of room to play under the hood. Here is a picture of the empty bay :
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I will try to install the motor and trans as a unit and see if that is possible. I know I will have to raise the rear end up about 6 feet...
FWIW, I installed a Coyote with a 6R80 auto trans and headers attached without too much difficulty. I had to approach from the side, and there was a lot of iterative up/down/tilt/pivot, but in the end it went in smoothly and fit perfectly.
Keith HR#894
Thanks for the positive re-enforcement. I sure don't want to mess with that front clip and I'm not sure I can pull off an engine/transmission marriage in the engine compartment. I'll post the results in a few weeks when I get the new motor on board. Thanks
Keith, what points did you use to lift your package? I made a set that attach to factory points but can't get the passenger side one off. I might could if I use short bolts. Haven't tackled that yet. I'm afraid if I move it forward any (like to exhaust bolts) it'll be too canted to deal with even with a load leveler and put way too much weight on the front one.
'33 Hot Rod
Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18
MK4 Roadster
Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.
I used the factory lift points with the brackets from TDMotion. Yes, I have the same problem with the PS bracket mounting bolt heads being very close to the firewall. I left the lift brackets installed for now - I will be pulling the engine later to have the chassis powder coated. However, I think that eventually I'll have to cut an access port in the firewall in order to remove the bolts. I don't think that I can slide the engine far enough forward to remove the bolts otherwise, and cutting the heads off would be problematic.
Keith
I made my own lift bracket out of 3/8” plate which worked well and I used a cut off wheel to cut the bolts and remove it. Was interesting getting in there but managed. Went through trans tunnel for one. I think I’ll be able to shorten new the bolts enough to get them in and out with using the plate bracket but haven’t tested that idea yet.
Got the new 3200 stall converter, upgraded AOD trans, and shiny BPE 347 stroker with Sniper fuel injection all assembled and stuffed into my engine bay this morning. Proof positive that a sbf w/auto can go in over the top of the grill assy. Damn glad I got it to fit without messing with that front clip. Only issue was that we snapped off the speedo sending unit on that darn trans mount. That's on order from FFR if they have one.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).