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Thread: Please critique my coyote wiring plan (diagram included)

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    Please critique my coyote wiring plan (diagram included)

    My father and I are at the wiring stage of our build. We have a Gen2 coyote and Ron Francis harness. We have very little experience with automotive electronics. This is my first attempt at a basic diagram. I have not included all wires and connections in the diagram. Only items that are custom or that I'm unsure about. I would greatly appreciate your feedback. Again...I'm a beginner so be gentle..haha!

    Assumptions:
    1. Per the FFR and RF instructions, I have not included the light blue clutch safety switch in the build
    2. Brown alternator wire at the alternator and at the ignition switch is deleted
    3. I've chosen a 200amp mega fuse for the alternator circuit but I can't find the actual size of the alternator?
    4. The heater wire is capable of running two heated seat systems
    5. The radio power wire is capable of running two USB outlets

    Question:
    1. Will the 3A jumper over the battery disconnect switch drain the battery with this diagram?

    wiring_1.JPG
    Last edited by Brian76; 09-26-2019 at 05:08 AM.
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    IMO you do not need the 2 amp memory jumper. Running the same wire un interrupted will have the same effect. The car will not start with the disconnect open, so the ecu memory wire does not need to be reduced. If you wanted to do this for a radio, clock or memory gauges, it might be worth while.
    Nothing wrong with your fuse links, but re settable breakers are available, if you like the idea of being able to reset a tripped breaker. If you trip one, you have an issue that needs addressing, but you can reset it after that and be hot again.
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    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    What alternator are you using? If it's a Ford 3G you won't energize it to charge without keyed power from the brown wire at the "I" terminal.

    Jeff

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    Railroad-Thanks for the info on resettable breakers. I'll check them out. As for the jumper, are you recommending a single wire going from the battery side of the disconnect (left side) straight to the ECU?

    Jeff- Unfortunately I do not know. It came on the engine from Forte. I'll unbox the engine and check. I've read that it should be a "one wire" alternator that does not need the brown wire....but I don't know for sure.
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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    When you unbox the engine, it should be pretty easy to get the part number off the side of the alternator. The Google will tell you how many amps it provides. By way of comparison, Forte provided a single-wire 100A generator for my 302.

    Cheers,


    John
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    When you unbox the engine, it should be pretty easy to get the part number off the side of the alternator. The Google will tell you how many amps it provides. By way of comparison, Forte provided a single-wire 100A generator for my 302.

    Cheers,


    John
    The coyote alternator is energized through the coyote control pack.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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    [QUOTE=Brian76;382065]Railroad-Thanks for the info on resettable breakers. I'll check them out. As for the jumper, are you recommending a single wire going from the battery side of the disconnect (left side) straight to the ECU?

    Although my engine is a Coyote Gen 1, I believe the wiring harness instructions stated to run an uninterrupted hot wire from the battery to the ECU or Power Distribution box, I forget which, hot at all times. I do not think disconnecting this circuit has any lasting harmful effects, but I think some learned data can be lost.
    Your jumper will protect that data, but you are not saving your battery with the small amp protection.
    The ecu will have the same drain through the gauged wire from the battery.
    I guess, I am asking, what are you gaining or not losing with the small amp jumper wire?
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFinisher View Post
    The coyote alternator is energized through the coyote control pack.
    My alternator info: CR3T-10300-AC / TN104210-1450 / V4B1B. I managed to find a Alibaba site that listed this as 150Amp. It has black painted body so this apparently means its a 4G. The next question is how do I know this is a 1 wire or 3 wire alternator? From what I can tell, the three wire alternator requires the brown wire from the ignition. I don't have a ford schematic for the harness that plugs into the alternator so I'm not sure if these are the same leads as a 3 wire.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Several things:

    1. Agree with others there's no reason for the 3A jumper wire. Just run the Coyote power off the unswitched side of the master switch. BTW, when you say "ECU" I assume you mean Power Distribution Box (PDB) which is part of the Coyote Ford Performance harness. That's where the power for the system is supplied. The ECU is actually powered via the Coyote harness.

    2. I'm also assuming the 250A mega fuse you're showing is the one supplied with the Ford Performance Coyote control pack? Per the Ford instructions, it's only meant to protect the Coyote system. Not the entire car harness as you're showing. That fuse should be between the battery power and the Coyote PDB.

    3. You're correctly showing the Coyote SMR wire connected to the RF EFI crank wire. I'm hoping you mean the SMR wire in the pigtail harness. But that's it. That same wire does not go the starter as you're showing. The Coyote harness has a harness leg (Item N) that goes to the small terminal on the starter. They're not the same thing.

    4. The Motorcraft/Ford Performance alternator recommended by Ford Performance (M-8600-M50BALT) is a 6G alternator. Hopefully that's what Mike provided. Uses the large battery wire, which you're showing, and is controlled by the plug-in connector provided as part of the Coyote harness. As already mentioned. The brown RF alternator wire is not used.

    5. You're not showing the complete Coyote wiring required. Maybe on purpose. But missing: Fuel pump, cooling fan, and ignition relay (required along with the SMR wire in the pigtail harness). Plus the dedicated stuff like the Coyote clutch pedal switch and DBW module (accelerator pedal).

    As an aside comment, sounds like you're using the Factory Five Coyote installation instructions. That's fine, and is certainly useful. I'd really encourage, if you aren't already, to also use the Ford Performance instructions https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6017-504V.pdf. They have much more detail and explain the wiring a little better IMO. Between the two, should have what you need.
    Last edited by edwardb; 09-21-2019 at 08:05 PM.
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    Thanks for the great info Paul. My comments in Blue

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Several things:
    1. Agree with others there's no reason for the 3A jumper wire. Just run the Coyote power off the unswitched side of the master switch. BTW, when you say "ECU" I assume you mean Power Distribution Box (PDB) which is part of the Coyote Ford Performance harness. That's where the power for the system is supplied. The ECU is actually powered via the Coyote harness. Yes, I meant PDB. I will run the PDB power from the unswitched side of the cutoff switch. I guess I thought I could power the PDB from the busbar and use the 250amp megafuse to protect more of the system. I read a thread where some people used the jumper to keep from losing ECU memory. Should I still use a megafuse or breaker before the busbar?

    2. I'm also assuming the 250A mega fuse you're showing is the one supplied with the Ford Performance Coyote control pack? Per the Ford instructions, it's only meant to protect the Coyote system. Not the entire car harness as you're showing. That fuse should be between the battery power and the Coyote PDB. Yes this was the fuse supplied in the control pack

    3. You're correctly showing the Coyote SMR wire connected to the RF EFI crank wire. I'm hoping you mean the SMR wire in the pigtail harness. But that's it. That same wire does not go the starter as you're showing. The Coyote harness has a harness leg (Item N) that goes to the small terminal on the starter. They're not the same thing. Yes, the SMR wire in the pigtail. I wrongly assumed that the SMR wire was also Item N.



    4. The Motorcraft/Ford Performance alternator recommended by Ford Performance (M-8600-M50BALT) is a 6G alternator. Hopefully that's what Mike provided. Uses the large battery wire, which you're showing, and is controlled by the plug-in connector provided as part of the Coyote harness. As already mentioned. The brown RF alternator wire is not used. I will be contacting Mike this week to confirm. I can't tell from the internet if its 4G or 6G. The model #'s don't match what you listed. The plug for the alternator is from the coyote harness

    5. You're not showing the complete Coyote wiring required. Maybe on purpose. But missing: Fuel pump, cooling fan, and ignition relay (required along with the SMR wire in the pigtail harness). Plus the dedicated stuff like the Coyote clutch pedal switch and DBW module (accelerator pedal). Correct, those items seem straightforward so far. Although I'll probably have questions about the cooling fan when I get to it.

    As an aside comment, sounds like you're using the Factory Five Coyote installation instructions. That's fine, and is certainly useful. I'd really encourage, if you aren't already, to also use the Ford Performance instructions https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6017-504V.pdf. They have much more detail and explain the wiring a little better IMO. Between the two, should have what you need.
    Thank you for the link! I have yet to find any instructions in the ford performance boxes.

    I've attached an updated diagram based on everyone's recommendations/observations:
    Wiring_2.JPG
    Last edited by Brian76; 09-21-2019 at 09:47 PM.

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian76 View Post
    Should I still use a megafuse or breaker before the busbar?
    I haven't on any of my builds, and don't see others adding one either. Not sure what it adds. The RF panel has fuses on all the circuits. Note: Could perhaps say the same about the 250A fuse Ford shows for the Coyote installation. But I've always installed it since it's in the instructions and don't want to have any questions should there be any issues or warranty claims.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian76 View Post
    I will be contacting Mike this week to confirm. I can't tell from the internet if its 4G or 6G. The model #'s don't match what you listed.
    Whether 4G or 6G, the wiring is the same. The Ford Performance part, which many of us use and also listed on the Factory Five instructions, is a 2012 - 2013 BOSS 302 alternator. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-8600-M50BALT. Apparently has some upgraded features over the standard Mustang alternator it seems Mike provided.
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    Senior Member Just puttering's Avatar
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    Regarding your drawing, if you put a jumper from one side of the disconect to the other, you need to carry alot of extra fuses, you will get in the car and forget to turn the disconect and blow that fuse. The ecu should have one wire for always hot and the same with a clock or radio, it would be best to run these three off there own circuit, not just jumper over the switch and be able to energize the whole car ! Although it should work with the jumper the chances of blowing the fuse is alot higher.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    The Gen 2 Coyote control pack pigtail has two HAAT (Hot At All Times) wires that can be used and are not switched off with the master disconnect if you wire the Coyote PDB to the unswitched side. I used them for the clock and GPS keep-alive on my #8674 build. Just make sure the PDB has fuses in those circuits. Mine didn't.
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    The Gen 2 Coyote control pack pigtail has two HAAT (Hot At All Times) wires that can be used and are not switched off with the master disconnect if you wire the Coyote PDB to the unswitched side. I used them for the clock and GPS keep-alive on my #8674 build. Just make sure the PDB has fuses in those circuits. Mine didn't.
    That's good to know Paul. Thanks. Another quick question. Is the RF heater wire capable of powering driver and passenger heated seats? I'm leaning toward the WarmSeats pads.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian76 View Post
    That's good to know Paul. Thanks. Another quick question. Is the RF heater wire capable of powering driver and passenger heated seats? I'm leaning toward the WarmSeats pads.
    Yes. The RF heater circuit is good for 20 amps and easily handles the current draw of the seat heaters. I've used that circuit on several builds for the seat heaters. One caveat, I assume you're not using a heater. So the seat heaters would be the only things on the circuit.
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Yes. The RF heater circuit is good for 20 amps and easily handles the current draw of the seat heaters. I've used that circuit on several builds for the seat heaters. One caveat, I assume you're not using a heater. So the seat heaters would be the only things on the circuit.
    Correct...no heater
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    I confirmed with Mike Forte and Ford Performance that I have the correct alternator. There are two different part numbers associated with the alternator. M-8600-M50BALT is most likely the ford performance part number for their alternator kit. CR3T-10300-AC is the actual part number stamped on the alternator. I was trying to find amperage specs using the CR3T number instead of the M-8600 number. Oh well.

    The alternator is 150amp and a one wire configuration.

    I appreciate everyone's help with my wiring challenges!

    Wiring_3.JPG
    Last edited by Brian76; 09-24-2019 at 02:21 PM.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I can confirm the CR3T-10300-AC / TN104210-1450 / V4B1B numbers are on the alternator supplied by Ford Performance as part of M-8600-M50BALT. And, yes, that part number is a kit that includes the alternator, belt, idler pulley, and tensioner to directly bolt onto a Coyote. So whatever mystery there was there is resolved.

    And not to put too fine a point on it, but that alternator is not considered a one-wire alternator. That term is referring to an alternator that really only has one wire attached (the large gauge battery wire) and has a self-exciting regulator. Typically the regulator is turned on when the RPM exceeds a certain threshold. The alternator you have is a 6G as I mentioned previously. The harness that plugs into it (supplied with the Coyote control pack) controls the regulator in the alternator using ignition voltage.
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