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Thread: I am torn between the Roadster and Type 65....

  1. #1
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    I am torn between the Roadster and Type 65....

    This could be a deal-breaker for the type 65... Here's a quick question... How hot does it get in the car? I plan to track the car I don't see the need for air conditioning...

  2. #2

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    I wouldn't build one with out it.
    Mike

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  4. #3
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    I was contemplating building a Type 65 too. Until I tried to get into the car. My son and I were in the planning stages and a coupe seemed like a fun build. We went to London and both of us tried to get into the coupe. I'm the proud owner of Roadster 9457.
    Built FFR9457. 351 Windsor, TKO600, 3.73. Fitech EFI. Russ Thompson throttle pedal, turn signal, and trunk pan. Carbon Fiber dash with Speedhut Revolution gauges. Paint by Jeff Kleiner.

  5. #4
    Senior Member RBBJ 32 HOTROD's Avatar
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    Yes. I too was thinking of a type 65 until I went to the Factory and tried getting in it. I ended up with a 33 hotrod roadster.
    33 Hot Rod w/ deluxe 32 nose
    350 SBC and 700r4 automatic, 8.8 rear with 3.55 gears
    Order date:4/25/19, Deliver date 6/10/19
    First run 10/6/2019, Go cart 11/3/2019

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    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    Are you building a Track-only car?
    Even though it has a roof and windows, the interior can be loader than a roadster. This isn't much of an issue for track purposes with a helmet on, but cruising and hiway drone can be problematic (even with Dampner material installed).
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  7. #6
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
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    The new Gen III models are a lot roomier then the Gen II's, and easier to get in and out of.
    I build mine with AC but don't have street miles to provide you with feedback on the heat question.
    For what it is the Coupe is a better looking car, more aerodynamic too so if you plan to race....

    John
    Finished the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Sniper EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

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    Quote Originally Posted by MPTech View Post
    Are you building a Track-only car?
    Even though it has a roof and windows, the interior can be loader than a roadster. This isn't much of an issue for track purposes with a helmet on, but cruising and hiway drone can be problematic (even with Dampner material installed).
    Most track... Some Street..

  9. #8

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Check out the videos from Mr. John George.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQG...vf3kj6O2pydK2A

    Then make you decision.

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    I'm in the same boat. Can't decide between the Coupe, MKiv, or maybe even the 289 Roadster. Went for a ride in a Gen II Coupe that the owner built as more of a race replica (no carpet, sound deadener, etc) and it was pretty harsh, loud, with uncomfortable vintage race buckets. Not how I would want to build it. Also recently took a ride in a very nicely finished Mark IV. Which was much more pleasant, but he build his to be more streetable. I wish I could find a more finished Gen 3 to compare. According to Tony Z at Factory Five, there is quite a difference between the Gen 2 and 3.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Check out the videos from Mr. John George.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQG...vf3kj6O2pydK2A

    Then make you decision.

    I am one of his subscribers! ��

    Possible options.. cut the top ala Spyder, no body at all.. also Engine power and Cletus

  12. #11
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I don't track my cars, so can't be too helpful on that front. But several comments FWIW. Unless you find a build that's close to what you're planning, not easy to draw conclusions. Engine used, rear suspension, insulation or not, seats used, build quality, all can really change the character of a car. So just be cautious there. A purpose built track car, whether a Roadster or a Coupe, is typically going to be raw and warm in either case. Kind of the nature of a track car. If you build a Coupe and plan some street driving, I agree with the comment to have A/C and at least some level of insulation. Regarding the Coupe itself, I agree they can be challenging to get in and out of. Several comments about that. Agree there's a significant difference between the Gen 1/Gen2 and the Gen 3. I've been in and out of both, and it's noticeable. Seats also make a big difference. The lower they are makes it harder. For my average height (5'10") I don't want them flat on the floor. For my build, I chose seats that have a more normal height and it helps a lot. Also some racing seats have large wraparounds that protrude into the door opening. Also makes it harder. Finally, it just plain takes practice. I'm pretty used to getting in and out of mine now. Wasn't that way at first at all. So be careful about first impressions. Two other comments. I don't find the Gen 3 Coupe, at least the way mine is set up, to be any harder to get in and out of than a Roadster with a top. Also, in hindsight I wish I had spent more time considering a removable steering wheel. I can see where that would make things easier as well.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Thanks Ed for the input.

    I understand about the heat situation now.

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    If you are going to track a roadster make sure that the roll bar is above the height of your helmet and if you plan on having instructors or others ride in the car with you make sure to have a passenger side roll bar. If track is your main goal look at a challenge car which can still be made road worthy!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ricobrafan View Post
    If you are going to track a roadster make sure that the roll bar is above the height of your helmet and if you plan on having instructors or others ride in the car with you make sure to have a passenger side roll bar. If track is your main goal look at a challenge car which can still be made road worthy!
    I thought the doors on the challenge car don't open?

  16. #15
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jcdata View Post
    I thought the doors on the challenge car don't open?
    Right. They don’t.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Some more things to consider:
    Do you like roasting in the sun on a hot day, or do you prefer shade. The roadster looks beautiful, but for some, a convertible with the top down is really only pleasant on a beautiful summer evening. My dad keeps the top up on sunny days...

  18. #17

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    If you are going to track the car, the Daytona will be a heck of a lot safer.
    Also, the longer wheel base will make it a tad easier to drive.
    That platform is the BEST of what F-5 has to offer.
    It came out shortly after I ordered my MK-4.

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    Thanks guys for your input.

    The competition roadster door is an issue because the wife was to come for a ride

  20. #19
    Senior Member GThompson's Avatar
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    “Track”, as in racing? Or driving schools? If racing, you’ll need a car with a full, sanctioning body legal roll cage, so either a gen 3 Coupe-R or a Challenge Roadster. If driving school, you may want to consider a Corvette or used M3, way more civilized and wife-friendly.
    George T

    Type 65 Coupe #338, Picked Up 4-Aug-07, Roller on 8-Mar-09, 1st start 8-Sep-13, 1st Autocross 7-Oct-18, finished sanding & sprayed paint myself 6-Nov-21, IRS/LCA/Koni/traditional gages/Kirkey/pin-drive rear width/15" Torq-Thrust Ds/44IDFs/Brodix ST5.0R heads/Eagle internal-balance crankshaft/oil pan by Armando/home-made turkey pan/S-10 mid-shift T5

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    I'm still leaning towards the Coupe myself, although when my wife and I took the factory/showroom tour in August, the Coupe is what she liked least behind the Hot rod pickup and the roadsters

  22. #21

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    Complicated question. I have both and love both of them for different reasons. The coupe is certainly harder to enter and exit, especially if you are an old fat guy like me. i wouldn't build a coupe without a removable steering wheel. Both can be reasonably cool if you apply thermal insulation. Our Roadster is a normally aspirated Coyote (435 hp), where as our coupe is an 800 hp turbo coyote rocket ship. For the track I would definitely choose the coupe, however for tooling around town I would gravitate to the roadster. if you have longish legs the coupe willl accommodate you better especially if you go to a shell seat.

    If you are going to put windows on it I would definitely add A/C to the coupe.

    Bottom line is they are both great rides. If you are leaning toward a coupe, sit in one and see how you fit. If you are anywhere near central Ohio, let us know and you can take both of ours for a spin. I probably didn't clarify much, but it really is a personal preference thing.

    Best of luck in your decision.

    Chris@Forma
    Chris

  23. #22
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    I have about 4000 miles on my Gen III... and I have had a "couple" other FFR's... Regardless on which way you go - with or without AC, roadster or coupe.... for the coupe one thing I noticed about airflow around the window area in the coupe...

    Even with the windows out at speed there is NO air coming into the cockpit around the A-pillar! The air actually comes in from behind at the corner window - basically in your ear. If you look at John George's car... in the earlier runs and pictures the driver door is nice and stock..... in later pictures you will see an appearance of a wind deflector- i never asked but assumed that he was seeing the same effect I was seeing... all to say... I think you will need fans or something in the car...



    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

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    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

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    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

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  24. #23

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    One of my guys had ours out (no windows or rear window scoops) and had it up to 178 mph. He expected a tornado of wind and associated wind noise. He said it was about the same at 178 as it was at 60. I haven't done this comparison myself so I'm going on what Tim said. Pretty much the same experience as Eric.
    Chris

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    Thanks for the information guys. I do need to sit in a coupe however ... I am Niagara Falls NY

  26. #25

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    We are 5 hours from you if you are up for a road trip. Bring your wife along and you can try both in the same day. just let us know if you are interested so that we can get you on the schedule
    Chris

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    Hi Chris!

    I am interested however I am booked in the next several weeks of October.

  28. #27

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    We would need a couple of weeks anyway. Right now our Coupe is somewhat disassembled as we are developing functional windows for it and right now it is lacking doors, Interior has been partially disassembled. A/C is out as we are also developing a new A/C unit....We use our cars as development platforms so the have each been assembled and disassembled several times....I think the interior of the coupe is it's third. Just let us know and give us some time to make sure the cars are in the assembled state when you come by.

    Thanks,

    Chris @Forma
    Chris

  29. #28
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    To add another thought to the comments about the wheelbase etc. The roadster chassis and suspension is the best that can be done staying w/ the basic two round tubes ladder type chassis. The front and rear suspensions have been brought up to date. The suspension on the coupe is nearly identical to the roadster so also very good. But the coupe frame is by far the better overall design.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  30. #29
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    Chris,

    I'll message you when time becomes available.

    George,

    I'd like to do autoX, put the car in the track either track days or race it. I wouldn't mind dabbling in half mile racing.

  31. #30
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    For your autoX runs, and even track days, (at most tracks), the superior aerodynamics of the coupe vs the roadster, will not be an advantage. It is highly unlikely you would attain the speeds where it would make any difference. Either of them can reach speeds into the 130's, and it's really only beyond that, the aero comes into major play.
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

  32. #31
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Seems to me you should build one of each. One, a civilized version with A/C and other creature comforts and the other a bad to the bone street legal race car. Anything short of that will be a compromise.

    But, I'll also advise you that if you want a driver don't build it like a race car. Ask me how I know.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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  34. #32

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    Seems to me you should build one of each.

    One, a civilized version with A/C and other creature comforts (Ford Powered) and the other a bad to the bone street legal (Chevy Powered) race car.

    Anything short of that will be a compromise.

    Sorry Guys But I Just Had To!

    https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA

    https://youtu.be/CaRlqMmKIzk

    Just Kidding Ford Fans!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-16-2019 at 08:03 PM.

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  36. #33
    Member GashF16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    Ask me how I know.
    How do you know?
    Building Gen 3 Coupe complete kit / 2018 Gen 3 5.0 Coyote / T-56

  37. #34
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Some of us just can't leave well enough alone. After one race season, a pump gas street legal race car morphed into an 1100 HP nitrous and VP race fuel fed street legal race car that is way too uncivilized to be even remotely practical on the street. And at $12/gallon for race gas and what seems like 1 MPG, I can't get very far on the road now anyway.


    Click on the link below to see how to build a very unpractical street car.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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  39. #35
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    With the permission from my wife, this is my retirement gift from her. I was heavily involved into racing when I was younger as I got older, life and responsibilities took over. For the past decade, I have into some form of competition sport with dogs from agility, flyball, and now whippet racing either at a national or world level.

    I miss don't miss drag racing as I once did but love the turns! I have run as fast 7.69@183 in the quarter in a 3200 lb car, to learning the ins and outs of roundy-round racing. I ended being a pitcrew member at the 24 hours of Daytona.

    But I do know what you mean when you start to build your street car in excess. I had two 10s street cars through the exhaust. They 3700 and 3900 lbs at138 and 136.

    This build I am sticking an all aluminum big block in it backed by a 6 speed T56 with dog gears. I want IRS. Originally, I wanted around 750-775 Fhp but the engine says we're going a little over 800. She'll swing a Max of 7700 or so. I'll drive it less on the street. I do love the cage of the coupe.

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  41. #36
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    IGNORE EVERYTHING THAT EVERYONE HAS SAID IN THIS THREAD!!!

    Here is how you figure out if you want a coupe or a roadster.

    Which question do you want to answer every time you take your car out?

    1. "Is it real?" - you want a roadster.

    2. "What is it?" - you want a coupe.

    Done!

  42. #37
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Avalanche, I like that decision process.

    I get asked if my hot rod is real. I tell them it's real fast. It's also numbers matching. My NHRA competition number is on both sides and the front -- they all match.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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    Avalanche,

    Great thought process! 😎 KISS (keep it simple stupid)

  44. #39
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    Avalanche,

    Great thought process! �� KISS (keep it simple stupid)

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