Blueprint 347 sbf with sniper. Sensor locations limitec

[Brave Salmon]

I just received my shiny new 347 from Blueprint. It has the sniper efi on it and I have found I need to add a t-stat housing with a fitting for the temp gauge. No problem, Dorman 902-1001 from 6$ at amazon. Don't need an switch sniper has trigger for that as well. Only issue us making sure heater return line clears a large cap distributor.

[tony]

I have the same setup as you. Are you saying the intake has no threaded holes? That would be pretty weird not to have something to tap into there. I have my temp gauge going to the radiator and the EFI temp gauge on the intake. Also using the EFI to control the fan switch automatically.

[Papa]

I have the same combo. I'm not running a heater, but did do a bypass from the intake to the water pump. Not sure what you mean by the fan switch. The Sniper will control the fan and BPE should already have installed the CTS for the Sniper. You should have at least one additional location for the water temp gauge sensor. You can see my gauge sensor and bypass in the picture below. The Sniper CTS is on the other side of the intake.

[Brave Salmon]

You Guys are quick. Thanks for the fast feedback. In my setup from BPE, the manifold has the heater hose port, (1/2npt), and only one other which has the cts they installed. I posted the thread to quickly and have since learned about sniper controlling the fan. That still left me with no temp gauge sending unit port. BPE turned me onto getting a new water neck with a port on it for the gauge. I'm not certain this is the best place for that sensor but don't really have much choice..ideas are welcome.

[Brave Salmon]

I have the same combo. I'm not running a heater, but did do a bypass from the intake to the water pump. Not sure what you mean by the fan switch. The Sniper will control the fan and BPE should already have installed the CTS for the Sniper. You should have at least one additional location for the water temp gauge sensor. You can see my gauge sensor and bypass in the picture below. The Sniper CTS is on the other side of the intake.

Oapa, is the gauge sensor the one 8n the water neck / t-stat housing? If so that's exactly what I will do. You trust the readings are close to accurate? Thanks. .. tom

[Papa]

You Guys are quick. Thanks for the fast feedback. In my setup from BPE, the manifold has the heater hose port, (1/2npt), and only one other which has the cts they installed. I posted the thread to quickly and have since learned about sniper controlling the fan. That still left me with no temp gauge sending unit port. BPE turned me onto getting a new water neck with a port on it for the gauge. I'm not certain this is the best place for that sensor but don't really have much choice..ideas are welcome.

Breeze makes a cool fitting that let's you multi task the heater port. I can't find it on the website, but give them a call.

[BluePrintEngines]

OP's engine is a "Standard BluePrint" engine from the normal BluePrint Engines website. It is not a complete "Factory Five Package" from factoryfiveengines.com (like Papas)

It comes as a longblock only, no waterneck, larger cap distributor, etc.

Not knocking it at all, as it was his best option as he was just replacing a tired engine in a running/driving FFR. he didn't need the complete "ffr package"

he's a very nice fella, and we're working with him to supply a smaller distributor, giving better access to the heater ports, we had a conversation about the sniper controlling the fan, etc. I think we're on the right path getting him fixed up.

No problems at all here, just wanted to be sure this wasn't confused by onlookers as one of the combo's seen on factoryfiveengines.com Those fit just fine

Tom, already saw an email go across this morning for the distributor, coil, dipstick, etc. you'll hear from us shortly!! thanks again for hanging with us!

[Papa]

Oapa, is the gauge sensor the one 8n the water neck / t-stat housing? If so that's exactly what I will do. You trust the readings are close to accurate? Thanks. .. tom

Sounds like BPE is getting you taken care of, no surprise there! Let us know when you have it all worked out.

Dave

[FF33rod]

FWIW
I have a 347 with Sniper (not BPE) and like you the Sniper will control the fan and it's sensor is in the standard manifold location. For the temp gauge, I put the temp sensor in the radiator (bottom location where FFR normally puts the temp switch for the fan). Works great
Steve

[mtu shupavu]

So, sorry if I am late to the conversation, but I was just trying to figure this out. How do I get the Sniper EFI to control the electric fan? I have a BPE 306 and have the Sniper CTS and the coolant pressure in the intake manifold. Trying to figure out where to put the CTS for the gauge.

[weendoggy]

So, sorry if I am late to the conversation, but I was just trying to figure this out. How do I get the Sniper EFI to control the electric fan? I have a BPE 306 and have the Sniper CTS and the coolant pressure in the intake manifold. Trying to figure out where to put the CTS for the gauge.

The Sniper is set within the software. Very easy to do. You should use a relay to control the fan anyway, but that is still separate from the Sniper, it's not setup to run that load without one. Run #30 BAT+, #87 Fan motor, #86 ignition switched 12v, and #85 is ground. Run the Sniper fan wire (blue on 10pin plug) to #85 and you're set, once you tell the software. You can add a manual On/Off toggle to #85 and the other to ground to manually run your fan as a backup. Don't put the Sniper CTS in the thermostat housing because it will not be an accurate reading, it should be in the manifold, which is what I think you have.

This is how I do it. sniper_wiring_dual-sync_cd-box.jpg

[FF33rod]

As to the question where to put the CTS for the gauge, that is what I put in the radiator, near the bottom. This is the location that FFR has traditionally used for the fan switch (a temp controlled switch which is different than a sensor), pg 231 in my manual.

Note that when using the Sniper to control the fan and when putting the temp sensor for the gauge in the radiator, you now have to change around the routing of wires in the harness so that the fan control and gauge temp sensor get routed to the right locations.... part of which weendoggy covers above, there are a few different ways of accomplishing the same thing - I used the existing fan and fuel pump relays that are part of the RF wiring system.

[Brave Salmon]

Ok, closure. BPE was a big help working through this with me. The sensor problem was caused by my original 351w manifold that had four ports in the intake for heater, cts, fan, and even a plug in #4. The new manifold only has 2 ports causing me to go a bit goofy. BPE, Johnny, advised me that the sniper had a fan control circuit that will activate the fan for me. My heater hose went right in and the Sniper cts was already installed leaving me with no place for gauge sending unit. Johnny suggested I look at a new water neck /tstat housing with a port in it. Well, dummy me, I never knew they even made one but 2 minutes online and I found the Dorman part above. All I need to do is get a reducer to take the 1/8npt sensor to 3/8npt and sensors are done. Regarding the distributor, BPE provided a hei style unit with the coil built into the cap. Unfortunately it was just too big and caused problems getting my air cleaner, a/c brackets and heater hose fittings to clear. The guys at BPE worked outside the box to fix me up with a smaller cap dustributor that will clear everything. Lesson learned. If you try to piece stuff together instead of buying a proven configuration, be prepared to go into problem solving mode and be sure you consult with the good guys st BPE. They love us for guys even if we are a bit odd at times. Thanks Johnny.

[Brave Salmon]

The Sniper is set within the software. Very easy to do. You should use a relay to control the fan anyway, but that is still separate from the Sniper, it's not setup to run that load without one. Run #30 BAT+, #87 Fan motor, #86 ignition switched 12v, and #85 is ground. Run the Sniper fan wire (blue on 10pin plug) to #85 and you're set, once you tell the software. You can add a manual On/Off toggle to #85 and the other to ground to manually run your fan as a backup. Don't put the Sniper CTS in the thermostat housing because it will not be an accurate reading, it should be in the manifold, which is what I think you have.

This is how I do it. sniper_wiring_dual-sync_cd-box.jpg

Hey Weendoggy, why the additional relay? Can't I just hook that ltblue wire directly to the wire that was originally on the fan switch and use the stock relay as Ron Francis built it? If I'm missing something please let me know. Thanks, tom

[Papa]

Hey Weendoggy, why the additional relay? Can't I just hook that ltblue wire directly to the wire that was originally on the fan switch and use the stock relay as Ron Francis built it? If I'm missing something please let me know. Thanks, tom

This is what most do. Simple, one wire connection and done. Tie the fan control wire from the Sniper to the green fan thermo sw wire in either of the two locations provided in the Ron Francis harness and you have a relay circuit triggered by the Sniper.

[weendoggy]

"Hey Weendoggy, why the additional relay? Can't I just hook that ltblue wire directly to the wire that was originally on the fan switch and use the stock relay as Ron Francis built it? If I'm missing something please let me know."

Your question has been answered. I don't use a RF harness and my systems are custom, so it's not an additional relay. As long as you have a relay to control the fan, no issues.