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Thread: Removing Rear shocks (This has to be the "Thread of the Month")

  1. #1
    Senior Member Dagwoods's Avatar
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    Removing Rear shocks (This has to be the "Thread of the Month")

    Ok guys,

    Basic question: How do I remove rear koni shocks on a 3-link set-up?

    Background: I am setting ride height and for some reason, my driver side rear shock collar wont loosen with either a spanner or a punch and hammer. To try and figure out what is going on, I figured I would remove the shock. I loosened the top and bottom mount bolt with a jack under the rear perch but now it is all jammed up. If I jack it up more, the whole axle moves, the car just tilts and does not compress just the side I want. I asssssssume it is because I still have the panhard bar attached and that I should undo it. Is this the only thing I should remove to give me enough compression on driver side rear to remove the shock? I don't think I would have to undo the lower control arms, etc.

    Thanks just wanted to check before I go crazy and undo all of my rear drive train.
    Mk IV base kit #9273 Delivered 1/29/2018
    3-link Moser 8.8 3.55
    TKO 600
    427w by Fordstrokers w/Holly sniper efi/hyperspark distro and ignition

  2. #2
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    I’m confused by you saying compress. You should have the frame on stands and the axle hanging. It should fall right down when you remove the shock bolts.
    2017 FFR MK4 9026, 3 Link, 15" FFR halibrands, cooper cobra tires, '88 302/5.0, GT40 Y303 heads, Performer RPM intake Manifold, Holley 650 DP Carb, Pertronix distributor, T5Z spec built transmission, 3.73 rear end. Ordered Nov 2016, picked up at FFR Feb 2017, first start July 2017, Legal on the road May 2018, still in Gelcoat.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Dagwoods's Avatar
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    Facepalm......yeah. I had the jackstands under the axle. Stupid beer.
    Last edited by Dagwoods; 09-29-2019 at 08:31 PM.
    Mk IV base kit #9273 Delivered 1/29/2018
    3-link Moser 8.8 3.55
    TKO 600
    427w by Fordstrokers w/Holly sniper efi/hyperspark distro and ignition

  4. #4
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dagwoods View Post
    stupid beer.
    lol
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  5. #5
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    Doh!
    Glad you sorted that out.
    Also those spring perches don’t like turning with weight on them either. Get the suspension hanging and it should turn much easier. Hope that solves it for you
    2017 FFR MK4 9026, 3 Link, 15" FFR halibrands, cooper cobra tires, '88 302/5.0, GT40 Y303 heads, Performer RPM intake Manifold, Holley 650 DP Carb, Pertronix distributor, T5Z spec built transmission, 3.73 rear end. Ordered Nov 2016, picked up at FFR Feb 2017, first start July 2017, Legal on the road May 2018, still in Gelcoat.

  6. #6
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    I put the stands under the frame and use the jack under the axle (with a small piece of plywood under two of the wheel studs or edge of rotor) to adjust axle height making it easier to get the bolt in. On reinstall, I hang the coil over on the top mount first, lay on the floor and adjust the jack slowly w/ my foot to get the height just right so the bolt and spacers can be installed.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  7. #7
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    ....lay on the floor and adjust the jack slowly w/ my foot to get the height just right so the bolt and spacers can be installed.
    I do the same thing and, when my replacement knee clicks like a torque wrench, I know I have it just right!
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk3.1 #6602 which was an unfinished project in go-kart stage; 9/2019 -- completed car enough to drive locally and compete in autocross events; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; Tremec 3550; 3.51 rear diff; lots of Breeze pieces; 2021 -- XP Champion in Central PA Region - SCCA Autocross Series; 2022 - installed windshield and registered in PA; my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

    6/2022 -- acquired Mk3 #1004; finished build; 347 stroker w/ Holley 560 carb SOLD

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF6602 View Post
    I do the same thing and, when my replacement knee clicks like a torque wrench, I know I have it just right!
    Two LOLs in this thread, keep it going!
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
    Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.

  9. #9

    Super Moderator
    Ray's Avatar
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    I edited the title. This should be considered the "Thread of the Month"!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
    -- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"

    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

  10. #10
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    The crazy thing about using your replacement knee as a torque wrench is that we are all sitting in front of our computers imagining you doing it. As for me, I'm impressed at the ingenuity, but the engineer in me wants to know if you had it calibrated lately?? Don't over do it and mess anything up. I haven't laughed like this in a while. I'm making popcorn for the follow on responses.

    Scott
    Built FFR9457. 351 Windsor, TKO600, 3.73. Fitech EFI. Russ Thompson throttle pedal, turn signal, and trunk pan. Carbon Fiber dash with Speedhut Revolution gauges. Paint by Jeff Kleiner.

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