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J-pipes to long-tubes
I got the j-pipe package with my Gen-2 Coyote back in 2016 (mostly for cost savings) and have seen my enthusiasm for this solution decline as I read about cracked pipes, difficulty adjusting sidepipes, and now Mr. Kleiner jumping in with his recommendation to avoid them entirely. I'm thinking long tubes will be my Christmas present to myself.
I have questions about changing over to long tubes and welcome feedback, links, whatever folks are willing to offer.
1) What is the preferred solution between GP or FFR headers? Stainless? Ceramic coating? Ball-end?
2) Are Remflex gaskets (to the engine) still considered the best choice?
3) How far do I have to lift/move the engine to remove the shorties and install the long tubes? Am I going to have to disconnect all my engine wiring and remove the midshifter (3rd time's the charm)?
4) Am I likely to still need the two hardened washers I installed on the DS engine mount for clearance to the foot box, or do the long tubes avoid this problem?
5) With the Remflex gaskets and long tubes, should I get locking header bolts? If so, what's the preferred solution?
Thanks in advance.
Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.
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Originally Posted by
initiator
I got the j-pipe package with my Gen-2 Coyote back in 2016 (mostly for cost savings) and have seen my enthusiasm for this solution decline as I read about cracked pipes, difficulty adjusting sidepipes, and now Mr. Kleiner jumping in with his recommendation to avoid them entirely. I'm thinking long tubes will be my Christmas present to myself.
I have questions about changing over to long tubes and welcome feedback, links, whatever folks are willing to offer.
1) What is the preferred solution between GP or FFR headers? Stainless? Ceramic coating? Ball-end?
2) Are Remflex gaskets (to the engine) still considered the best choice?
3) How far do I have to lift/move the engine to remove the shorties and install the long tubes? Am I going to have to disconnect all my engine wiring and remove the midshifter (3rd time's the charm)?
4) Am I likely to still need the two hardened washers I installed on the DS engine mount for clearance to the foot box, or do the long tubes avoid this problem?
5) With the Remflex gaskets and long tubes, should I get locking header bolts? If so, what's the preferred solution?
Thanks in advance.
1) Get the FFR headers with the Ball end on them. They are stainless.
2) I have always used factory header gaskets and never had any problems with Coyote exhaust leaks.
3) Passengers dies is no problem, drivers side it tight, you will not need to disconnect hoses, wiring etc, it can be done by removing the motor mount nut and raising the motor.
4) Clearance at that location is tight to the head, not the pipe generally so there will be no change in that.
5) Have never using locking bolts on a coyote, again, never had an issue
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Tool Baron
Originally Posted by
FFinisher
Passengers dies is no problem,
I feel the same way Ron................................ Sorry, I got a giggle from that line and couldn't pass up replying.
Frank
__________________________
Factory Five Racing MKIII Super Snake Replica. Cannonball Cobra Drop Trunk Box, Horn Button and other machined Do Dads.
i.e.427 Chromed Full Width Roll Bar with integrated LED Third Brake Light.
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Not a waxer
Originally Posted by
frankeeski
I feel the same way Ron................................ Sorry, I got a giggle from that line and couldn't pass up replying.
Well you know how those Massachusetts drivers are, particularly senators.............................Sorry, I couldn't pass up the Ted Kennedy reference for Ron's benefit
Jeff
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 3 Likes
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If you raise the engine, be sure to loosen up the trans mount.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
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Originally Posted by
frankeeski
I feel the same way Ron................................ Sorry, I got a giggle from that line and couldn't pass up replying.
Two guys who have never been a passenger in my car chuckled at this, Those who have been a passenger don't see the humor. :-)
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Tool Baron
Originally Posted by
FFinisher
Two guys who have never been a passenger in my car chuckled at this, Those who have been a passenger don't see the humor. :-)
No sir. Two guys that know better than to ride passenger with you. :O
Frank
__________________________
Factory Five Racing MKIII Super Snake Replica. Cannonball Cobra Drop Trunk Box, Horn Button and other machined Do Dads.
i.e.427 Chromed Full Width Roll Bar with integrated LED Third Brake Light.
I will never forget My Buddy Paul.
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Not a waxer
Originally Posted by
FFinisher
Two guys who have never been a passenger in my car chuckled at this, Those who have been a passenger don't see the humor. :-)
When I rode with you I was most worried about having a tire go flat
Jeff
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Bought the FFR ball-end headers ($850 + $56 shipping to the PNW). Nice quality parts.
What's the trick to get all the header flange bolts started? I can install bolts 1 through 7 starting from one end, but #8 won't engage threads. I can start at #8 and install through #2, but then #1 won't engage. I seem to remember the shorty headers being a little tricky, but was able to get it with the engine outside the car.
Should I ease the outer bolt holes with a Dremel? Do the outer two bolts need to be started simultaneously? Start at #3 and 4 and work outward? I could change to studs and nuts, but it sounds like folks were able to get the bolts to work.
Thanks in advance.
Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.
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Open up the bolt holes, this problem is almost normal with headers. Easiest fix is with a drill and a slightly larger bit (+1/32"). But this makes a round hole and larger everywhere, perhaps you'll be happier with a Dremel tool or file to just attack the area of interference.
At the same time I have no experience with FFR supplied headers. A friend bought from one of the aftermarket header suppliers and still had to enlarge a few holes.
Jim
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Senior Member
Agree with Jim. Light touch with a file or Dremel probably will do the trick. One hint, which you're probably doing, but will say just in case. Don't tighten any until all eight are started. One-by-one, start enough to be engaged (several turns) but then go to the next one. Often this will give just enough wiggle room to get the last stubborn ones started.
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Thanks, Jim & Paul - much appreciated. Dremel it is.
Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.