Hose Couplings supplied by FFR too small for Lower Radiator Hose Tube. I removed Insert. I measured 1 7/8 O.D. on outlet. Local Auto Shops had nothing. The Stainless Flex Hose is much smaller O.D. Suggestions??
Thanks
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Hose Couplings supplied by FFR too small for Lower Radiator Hose Tube. I removed Insert. I measured 1 7/8 O.D. on outlet. Local Auto Shops had nothing. The Stainless Flex Hose is much smaller O.D. Suggestions??
Thanks
FFR Hot Rod #1106
I ended up using a combination of flex radiator hose and the corrugated S.S. The hose I used was: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-81271/overview/
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
Thanks Naz, Will pick up at Summit tomorrow. You have a pic? Did you cut it and attach to Steel Tube?
FFR Hot Rod #1106
Sorry, no photo.
That hose is 1.5" on one end and the other end is 1.75", And I managed to slip it on the SS flex that came in the kit. If you use a dab of dish or liquid laundry soap to lubricate the hose end that slips on the SS it will be less of a struggle. You won't use enough soap to be a problem, the coolant dilutes the soap so it's no longer slippery and the liquid soap is a surfactant or wetting agent that helps reduce the surface tension of the coolant which aids cooling.
BTW, I'm using the SS flex from the kit top and bottom and can't say I'm impressed with the results. The problem is with the short rubber hose ends -- they just don't fit the standard fittings used in my car so no matter how tight I get the clamps the hose want's to back off or leak. And the inserts seem to leak too. I even went with aircraft T-Clamps that can be tightened much more than the standard automotive screw clamps and doubled them on the radiator end on the upper hose -- no joy. The top one is so bad I'm looking for a replacement hose right now. However, that Dayco hose from Summit works great on the lower radiator and on the SS flex so not to worry about that part. But for the SS flex to the water pump I'd suggest you pick up some T-Clamps from Summit while you're getting that hose. And remember that the T-Clamps are sized for the OD of the hose.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
Thanks. On the upper, I just rummaged through the Auto Parts Store and found a hose that fit perfect. Going to put some kind of black clips to cover clamps>
hose.jpg
FFR Hot Rod #1106
Looks like it was made for the car. Hey, here's an idea for a cool looking hose clamp. Never used them but thought I'd pass it along.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Gates...SABEgKle_D_BwE
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
I heard about those. If my build continues like it has, I'll probably be taking it off FOR WHO KNOW WHAT..... When it's finally completed and running, I can change it. Everything I put together seems to have to come back apart for some reason!?!?!
FFR Hot Rod #1106
I ended up getting
a silicone 90* from Jegs.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/511282/10002/-1
33 Hot Rod w/ deluxe 32 nose
350 SBC and 700r4 automatic, 8.8 rear with 3.55 gears
Order date:4/25/19, Deliver date 6/10/19
First run 10/6/2019, Go cart 11/3/2019
I ended up getting
a silicone 90* from Jegs.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/511282/10002/-1
33 Hot Rod w/ deluxe 32 nose
350 SBC and 700r4 automatic, 8.8 rear with 3.55 gears
Order date:4/25/19, Deliver date 6/10/19
First run 10/6/2019, Go cart 11/3/2019
No, I couldn't find a single flex hose long enough to go from the bottom fitting to the water pump. I just reinstalled my engine the other day and this time I eliminated the corrugated SS piping. I used a coupling on the existing bottom hose I had been running and added another 1.5" flex hose long enough to replace the corrugated SS. Would rather not have a coupling joint but I just couldn't find a single flex hose long enough for the entire run.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
I have used the Gates shrink sleeves on the cooling system connections on 2 rods (FFR33 being one) and have had no issues. But once shrunk that's it. If you do need to remove em use a soldering pencil to melt a line thru them. Using a knife most always guarantee's you will cut the hose some.