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Thread: 25th Anniversary Build

  1. #41
    Member ydousurf's Avatar
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    Your build is coming along nicely, delta0014! I'll be following along since I have one of the 25th Anniversary Roadsters too. Keep the pics coming and enjoy the journey...

    Dj

  2. #42
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Put some Dynamate in the passengers footbox.
    E-brake is assembled.



    Drilling through the roll bars is no easy task. It's incredible how hard that is. I switched to a corded drill (which does work better), my cordless was getting really hot. Still have one hole to go, but think i need a new drill bit.
    The top hole i think is slightly off center, which is annoying, but i doubt anyone would notice unless they were specifically looking for it.
    Make sure you measure that about 50 times when you're doing it.



    I plan on doing the undercoating on the body this weekend...
    Was looking at spraying U-Pol Raptor Black spray on bed liner.
    If anyone has any experience with that, I'm open to all tips/tricks or reviews.
    I'll tape everything off about 2 inches along the body lines.
    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

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  3. #43
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    Tip for drilling things like the roll bars. Start with small bits and progressively go larger until you have the right diameter. Use a lubricant to help cool the bits. Some use WD40, but I like Tap Magic cutting fluid.

    Tap Magic 30004P Pro Tap - 4 oz, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMH8XM4..._QCYPDbYB1QZ18
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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  5. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Tip for drilling things like the roll bars. Start with small bits and progressively go larger until you have the right diameter. Use a lubricant to help cool the bits. Some use WD40, but I like Tap Magic cutting fluid.

    Tap Magic 30004P Pro Tap - 4 oz, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMH8XM4..._QCYPDbYB1QZ18
    I’ve done a bit of drilling and milling, and wd40 while always on hand, never seems to do much for me. The tap magic works a lot better. But I never seem to have any or can find it when I need it. I am enjoying your build. Good stuff.

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  7. #45
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    The Coyote has been delivered!
    It's huge, hopefully it fits.....




    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

    BUILD

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  9. #46
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    The Coyote has been delivered! It's huge, hopefully it fits...
    Congrats. It fits, but it's tight as you'll find out. I suspect you'll want to do something with that Gen 3 engine cover. FWIW, the modified version of it I'm installing in my Gen 3 Coupe build. Used part of the supplied cover, and fabbed new parts that go over the heads. Doesn't hide everything, but it's not too bad. Will be painted body color with white trim. Except the center grey section that I'm leaving the natural color.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  10. #47
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    The engine cover does seem big.
    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

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  11. #48
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    The engine cover does seem big.
    Not so much that it's big. It's designed to fit around the shock towers in a Mustang. Doesn't look that great there (not just my opinion) and even worse elsewhere. But you can decide once you get the engine in. I haven't found any aftermarket options yet. Which is why I chose to do my own mod/fabrication.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  12. #49
    Papa's Avatar
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    Here's a nice looking cover.

    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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  14. #50
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    Offering a tip on your new engine, trans and other bare metal. Now is a good time to apply Sharkhide.
    I had to go back and apply after installation. All the cast alum on your trans will oxidize. Same for the engine and plated bolt heads, driveshaft flange, etc. It will keep everything looking like it is now, nice and new looking. On irregular surfaces, I use the foam brushes. They will be once and done, so buy a pack. You can trim them to the size you need. I am sure you will be pleased with the results, especially if you get to compare the items you missed to those coated.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  15. #51
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Here's a nice looking cover.

    That is a nice looking cover.... Would look damn good in my roadster if it didn't cost so much.
    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

    BUILD

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  17. #52
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Railroad View Post
    Offering a tip on your new engine, trans and other bare metal. Now is a good time to apply Sharkhide.
    I had to go back and apply after installation. All the cast alum on your trans will oxidize. Same for the engine and plated bolt heads, driveshaft flange, etc. It will keep everything looking like it is now, nice and new looking. On irregular surfaces, I use the foam brushes. They will be once and done, so buy a pack. You can trim them to the size you need. I am sure you will be pleased with the results, especially if you get to compare the items you missed to those coated.
    Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it.
    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

    BUILD

  18. #53
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    That is a nice looking cover.... Would look damn good in my roadster if it didn't cost so much.
    That’s just a little more than a cover

    Jeff

  19. #54
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Yeah, that supercharger is cool. And yeah, it's more than a cover. But from a pure cosmetic standpoint, it only changes the appearance of the intake and doesn't address the most glaring appearance issue with the Gen 3 Coyote. In stock form, the Gen 1 and Gen 2 Coyotes actually had three covers. One on each head, called coil covers vs. valve covers, and then of course over the intake. Between the three, you could dress them up a bit including some aftermarket options including shiny bling like I used on #8674. On the Gen 3 Coyote, the added Direct Injection (DI) means a bunch of new plumbing and complication on the heads so covers are no longer practical. That's why the stock Gen 3 cover is so large. In addition to being over the intake, it extends over the heads to try to cover them a bit. That's what I tried to do with the modded cover I showed earlier. It's not 100% successful because it's too high and just not big enough to cover everything. But it helps a little I think.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  20. #55
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    I'm thinking about getting the engine ready and putting it in next week.

    Any reason I shouldn't since I don't have any rear suspension, front shocks, fuel tank, power steering yet? It's all on backorder. I don't really have anything else to do on it except the engine.
    I have the drivers footbox all drilled out, will probably rivot the engine side of it prior to the engine being installed. Don't have the pax or drivers floor panels yet either.
    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

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  21. #56
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Anything you need to install in the engine compartment area is going to be considerably harder with the engine in place from the perspective of getting tools to drill mounting locations in the space provided or maneuvering anything around in there. I would consider where you are going to run electrical, fuel and brake lines at a minimum and have an install plan for that stuff before putting the engine in.
    Also you may find it difficult to impossible to get the transmission into the tunnel with it sitting on your frame cart. You have to bring it in at an angle and that center support of your frame cart will be in the way.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

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  23. #57
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I'd recommend running the brake hard lines to the front before the engine is in. Similarly, I generally recommend running the rear brake and fuel lines as well as rear harness wiring before the floors, rear cockpit and trunk aluminum is installed but I think that ship already sailed.

    Jeff

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  25. #58
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Front brake lines are in and I started running a rear brake line already. The only thing that is rivoted is the floors, everything else in the cockpit or trunk is just sitting there.
    Was waiting on the fuel tank to start the fuel lines but maybe I’ll start on that. And the wiring.
    No hurry, just knew I’d have some guys at the end of this week...
    Was planning on using jack stands instead of the dolly to get the engine in.
    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

    BUILD

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  27. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Railroad View Post
    Offering a tip on your new engine, trans and other bare metal. Now is a good time to apply Sharkhide.
    I had to go back and apply after installation. All the cast alum on your trans will oxidize. Same for the engine and plated bolt heads, driveshaft flange, etc. It will keep everything looking like it is now, nice and new looking. On irregular surfaces, I use the foam brushes. They will be once and done, so buy a pack. You can trim them to the size you need. I am sure you will be pleased with the results, especially if you get to compare the items you missed to those coated.
    Have you had any issues with the sharkhide holding up on the engine? Seems like the engine temperature would affect it.
    This stuff is pricy at $60, but if works and keeps the metals looking good I’m all in. What ‘s another $60…

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  29. #60
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    My engine has been up to temp less than a dozen times, but no issues with the Shark Hide yellowing or turning loose.
    It also does very nicely on bare alum panels.
    A little goes a long way. Put it on and let it flow out, do not keep brushing or spreading. You might try it on a sheet of alum to get the feel of it.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  30. #61
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    AW go with the superchager

  31. #62
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    Do you have any pictures of the safety wire on
    the Wilwoods? just curious.

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  33. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Garage Guy View Post
    Do you have any pictures of the safety wire on
    the Wilwoods? just curious.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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  35. #64
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    Here is what I did, not nearly as custom as Paul's (EdwardB) but it will get painted to match the car.

    coyote cover.jpg

  36. #65
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    Congrats! You've made great progress so far... I just started the front suspension this weekend.

  37. #66
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Put some bedliner on the under side of the body today, tried to stay away from any edges, mainly just wanted a little extra protection in the wheel wells. Still have some left to do some touchups.



    Started pulling out all the wiring too and mounted the fuse panel.



    Wanted to put the engine in to have something to do, but when I went to get the stuff ready, I realized that the engine mounts are also on the POL list....
    Just don't have much to do now and they say the POL list could take several more weeks to start seeing anything...
    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

    BUILD

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  39. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    The bushings that are presently in the rack need to come out and will be replaced by (4) rubber/poly inserts supplied by Factory Five which will then get the sleeve that is shown in your photo inserted through them.

    You realize that the upper ball joint on the passenger side is not fully threaded in and seated in the control arm, right?

    Jeff
    Jeff & Ben,

    I had the same problem with my ball joint on the upper control arm, not fully threaded / seated per your photo above. Now I've got it in to the point where I cant advance it further or back it out! I thought maybe that I may have cross -threaded the ball joint, but they look square and flush with the control arm. Any suggestions for this noobie on my next steps?
    Thanks, Jeff

  40. #68
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    Ben, You can always come to Minneapolis and help me make some progress on my new build ?!? rolleyes:

  41. #69
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdauble View Post
    Jeff & Ben,

    I had the same problem with my ball joint on the upper control arm, not fully threaded / seated per your photo above. Now I've got it in to the point where I cant advance it further or back it out! I thought maybe that I may have cross -threaded the ball joint, but they look square and flush with the control arm. Any suggestions for this noobie on my next steps?
    Thanks, Jeff
    Mine threaded relatively easy, I just forgot to tighten that one down. Wish I had a suggestion, other then to get a BFW....
    The one I forgot, I just took a big adjustable wrench and tightened it down.
    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

    BUILD

  42. #70
    Papa's Avatar
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    What are you using to turn it? I followed the manual and set the joint in my vise and used the control arm to turn it.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  43. #71
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    One other thing that took me far longer to figure out then I care to admit... On the Coyote engine, you have to install a new oil and temp sender on it before you put it in... I looked everywhere for those senders, read through a bunch of forums to figure out if I had to order them, looked through the inventory sheets with no luck.
    Then figured out they came in the box with the gauges... I just looked at the gauges when I got the kit and threw it in my office for safe keeping.
    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

    BUILD

  44. #72
    Senior Member 2FAST4U's Avatar
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    Great progress. Involve your kids in every step of the build. It builds memories that will last a lifetime. My kids helped me with my first two builds and they still talk about it today (they’re 29 and 26 now). Have fun

  45. #73
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    You can get the socket from amazon for the upper ball joint. I think it was 25$ It's for a Chrysler ball joint it allows you to put even pressure on all four sides of the ball joint it. It Came in 3/4 inch Drive.
    Last edited by Garage Guy; 10-23-2019 at 12:54 PM.

  46. #74
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Someone's gotta figure this mess out...

    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

    BUILD

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  48. #75
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I know that with the help of her unicorn she can do it!

    Jeff

  49. #76
    Member Garage Guy's Avatar
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    Back when I was 16 I was working in a body shop. The first day on the job the owner handed me a box of parts and a van that was missing the front end. His words of wisdom he gave me where start with one thing you know move on to the next it'll all come together eventually. Took me six tries but I finally got it

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  51. #77
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    So far, i've just been laying out all the wiring, but it seems to be labeled very well. I'm not doing anything extra so it shouldn't be too bad once you figure out where to route it.
    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

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  52. #78
    Member Garage Guy's Avatar
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    I found the directions very good in regards to the wiring. I thought it was daunting at first but once you get into it it's pretty simple

  53. #79
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Question on the Gen 3 Coyote Oil sender...
    Suppose to switch the senders per the instructions. The one on the left is the one that I pulled out of the engine and the one on the right is the new one.
    They do not fit and I cannot figure out what adapter I'm suppose to use. Anyone else do this? How did you get it to fit?
    The water one is a standard size and was able to buy that, but the oil sender seems to be a weird size...Either too big with the fitting that came with it or too small without it.



    25th Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift

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  54. #80
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    Question on the Gen 3 Coyote Oil sender...
    Suppose to switch the senders per the instructions. The one on the left is the one that I pulled out of the engine and the one on the right is the new one.
    They do not fit and I cannot figure out what adapter I'm suppose to use. Anyone else do this? How did you get it to fit?
    The water one is a standard size and was able to buy that, but the oil sender seems to be a weird size...Either too big with the fitting that came with it or too small without it.
    Here's my experience on that topic based on the Gen 3 Coyote I put in my Gen 3 Coupe. Lots of details in the build thread. Link in my sig line if you're interested. I'm afraid I don't have all the answers yet.

    1. The threads on the Coyote are metric. So unless you can find an appropriate metric to SAE adapter, an adapter likely isn't the answer. But even if you did, read on...

    2. Unable to find an adapter, I removed the piece from the block (three bolts and an easy to re-use O-ring) and tapped it for the appropriate pipe thread. Speedhut sender mounted and all seemed OK.

    3. I had checked with Ford Performance in advance, and they told me, like the Gen 2 Coyote crate, the OE oil pressure sensor is not active in the crate motor calibration. So it was safe to do the swap as described.

    4. However I'm getting P0521 (oil pressure sender) and P0524 (oil pressure low) DTS codes every time I run the engine. That would indicate the OE oil pressure sensor is active in the current Gen 3 Coyote crate calibration. Unlike what they told me unfortunately. Note that I've tried it both with the Ford sender on the pigtail and tied out of the way, or with the sender not on the pigtail. How I have my Gen 2 wired. Same DTS codes either way.

    5. I've been trying for some months now (that's right...) to get an answer from Ford Performance. Is the oil pressure sensor active in the Gen 3 Coyote crate motor calibration? So far no answer in spite of repeated follow-ups. There have been some changes and apparently people gone over there, and this seems to be the result.

    6. If I don't get any further direction from Ford, I will likely remove the part from the block, buy a new one (since I drilled and tapped out the original sensor hole), put the stock sensor back where it came from, and see if I can find a different location on the part to drill/tap a new hole for the Speedhut sensor. Another option would be to do a "T" arrangement, which was how Gen 2's were originally done before the pressure sensor was confirmed not used.

    This doesn't solve your problem, but maybe gives you some direction and also keeps you from making it worse like maybe I did. Maybe if you call Ford Performance and bug them that would help expedite an answer. Sure hasn't worked for me. Good luck and let us know.
    Last edited by edwardb; 10-25-2019 at 11:15 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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