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Thread: 25th Anniversary Build

  1. #201
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Shocks showed up yesterday. They look pretty nice. Will be nice to finally have the suspension all done.

    Couple questions. The springs show #400 and #500 on them, any idea which ones go on the front and rear? I looked through the parts list and directions and none specify. The parts list both say front coil over.

    Last edited by delta0014; 01-26-2020 at 11:19 AM.
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  2. #202
    Papa's Avatar
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    The larger (500 lb.) springs go on the front. Look at your inventory sheets and they will list the front and rear springs with their spring rates.
    Last edited by Papa; 01-26-2020 at 01:01 PM.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

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  3. #203
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    The larger (500 lb.) springs go on the front. Look at your inventory sheets and they will list the front and read springs with their spring rates.
    Thanks, the parts list was the first thing I looked at. It lists both springs separately but says "front" for both part numbers.
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  4. #204
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    Shocks showed up yesterday. They look pretty nice. Will be nice to finally have the suspension all done.

    Couple questions. The springs show #400 and #500 on them, any idea which ones go on the front and rear? I looked through the parts list and directions and none specify. The parts list both say front coil over.
    Build manual says 500# on the front. IRS instructions say 400# for the IRS. Yes, the double adjustable shocks have to be mounted with the body down. Don't recall it mentioned in the Factory Five documentation. Very likely is. But Koni instructions from their website, when I went there to get instructions on how to set them, describes the internal valving in those shocks requires them to be mounted that way. Said won't function properly if mounted upside down.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  5. #205
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    It's a roller.. Brakes still need a little adjustment, but it's nice to be able to roll it out of the garage.

    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  7. #206
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    Looks Great!!!

  8. #207
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    It's a roller.. Brakes still need a little adjustment, but it's nice to be able to roll it out of the garage.

    wow that's great! I hope to be as quick as you! you're rollin at 5-6 months!
    Todd
    25th Anniversary MkIV | #20 of 25 | Build #9772
    https://cobradreams.com/ <- my build!

  9. #208
    Senior Member ydousurf's Avatar
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    Awesome! You're making very quick work on your build, impressive! I'm still going through inventory...

    Dj

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  11. #209
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    So, bleeding the brakes...

    I've never actually done it before. I understand the concept but the more I read, I'm not too confident in doing this.

    Bench bleeding the master cylinder. What I read is that it has a bleed screw on it that you run a tube to the reservoir..
    What exactly do I attach a hose too??? I don't see any bleed screws on it.



    And the balance bar.. How do I adjust the long screw rod so the clevis is closer together? They are pretty far apart. I've loosened the top nut on the clevis and the one on the bottom of the picture on the screw rod. I can turn the rod but it doesn't seem to do anything. I don't see in the instructions where it says how to do it... Just says how far apart they should be.



    And the rear calipers have 4 bleed nipples, 2 up and 2 down. Do I bleed all four? Just the top?
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
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  12. #210
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    Bench bleeding the masters:

    1. Make a couple of pieces of tubing with a flared fittings on one end (the tubing needs to be long enough to thread onto the MC where your hard lines are currently attached and have the other end dump into the reservoir(s)).
    2. Disconnect your hard lines from the MCs and attach the tubes you just made.
    3. Leave the hoses attached as you have them.
    4. Fill the reservoir(s) with fluid.
    5. Slowly pump the brake pedal until no bubbles are seen coming out of the ends of the tubes that are dumping back into the reservoir.
    6. One at a time, quickly disconnect each tube from the MC and reattach your hard lines. Do them one at a time.
    Do not pump the pedal again once the MCs have been bled until after you've pressure bled the calipers or are ready to pump bleed each caliper the old fashioned way. Make sure the reservoir never runs dry during the process.

    One the Wilwoods, bleed the bottom first, and then the top. Again, never let the reservoir run dry or your will have to start all over.

    On the balance bar, if you want/need to move the clevises, you have to remove the push rod from the clevis first and then rotate the clevis in the proper direction while holding the pivot rod so that it doesn't spin. Just from the picture, it doesn't appear that yours need to move. Could be the angle. You want them to be pretty much a straight line to the MCs so that the rods are not at an angle from the MCs to the clevises.

    Last edited by Papa; 01-31-2020 at 04:45 PM.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
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  14. #211
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Papa beat me... Looks like we disagree on how the Wilwoods are bled though. Doesn't hurt to do the bottom ones I guess. But the top ones are where the air is going to go.

    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    So, bleeding the brakes...
    I've never actually done it before. I understand the concept but the more I read, I'm not too confident in doing this.
    Bench bleeding the master cylinder. What I read is that it has a bleed screw on it that you run a tube to the reservoir..
    What exactly do I attach a hose too??? I don't see any bleed screws on it.
    No bleed screws on the MC’s. You remove the brake line and put a temporary line from there into the top of the reservoir. Pump the brakes until fluid is fully flowing, then replace the brake line.

    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    And the balance bar.. How do I adjust the long screw rod so the clevis is closer together? They are pretty far apart. I've loosened the top nut on the clevis and the one on the bottom of the picture on the screw rod. I can turn the rod but it doesn't seem to do anything. I don't see in the instructions where it says how to do it... Just says how far apart they should be.
    The instructions give the spacing required. Two sides together in the .20 - .25 range. To adjust, you need to take one of the MC’s off the clevis and turn the clevis independent of the other. Turning the balance bar will leave your spacing intact, but move the bearing in the middle, affecting the bias. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds252.pdf

    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    And the rear calipers have 4 bleed nipples, 2 up and 2 down. Do I bleed all four? Just the top?
    Only the top ones. The calipers have bleeders on both sides so they can be mounted either way. But only bleed from the tops ones as installed. Bleed the outboard bleed screw first, then the inboard.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-31-2020 at 04:40 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  16. #212
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, you rock.
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  17. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Papa beat me... Looks like we disagree on how the Wilwoods are bled though. Doesn't hurt to do the bottom ones I guess. But the top ones are where the air is going to go.


    No bleed screws on the MC’s. You remove the brake line and put a temporary line from there into the top of the reservoir. Pump the brakes until fluid is fully flowing, then replace the brake line.



    The instructions give the spacing required. Two sides together in the .20 - .25 range. To adjust, you need to take one of the MC’s off the clevis and turn the clevis independent of the other. Turning the balance bar will leave your spacing intact, but move the bearing in the middle, affecting the bias. https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds252.pdf



    Only the top ones. The calipers have bleeders on both sides so they can be mounted either way. But only bleed from the tops ones as installed. Bleed the outboard bleed screw first, then the inboard.
    Paul -- We don't really disagree. I only did the tops on mine and got perfect results the first time. I only mentioned the bottoms as some have had air trapped. If things are "normal", bleeding the tops only will get-er done. BTW, how many times have we answered this question now?

    Dave
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
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    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

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  19. #214
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Paul -- We don't really disagree. I only did the tops on mine and got perfect results the first time. I only mentioned the bottoms as some have had air trapped. If things are "normal", bleeding the tops only will get-er done. BTW, how many times have we answered this question now?

    Dave
    A lot...
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  21. #215
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Brakes are bled and feel good.
    Got the E-brake cables hooked up today. Was missing the adapter that connects the cable to the caliper, FFR was nice enough to send them to me, even though I'm way past the inventory cut off. It's tight, handle only does about 2-3 clicks before it's tight.
    Seats are mounted too on the Breeze seat mount. I'm waiting to do the carpet and other interior stuff until it's running.



    It's been 6 months since I ordered the car and 4 months since delivery. Still don't have the fuel tank or dash, although they are saying I should get that next week...
    There's a few minor things I've been putting off.
    Questions...
    ** Sorry kinda long ** But it's all I have left to do besides hooking up the gauges and fuel tank once the rest arrives next week.
    ----
    There's a white plug in this picture. What is it for?
    And the yellow taped, vacuum port I believe, it looks like i'm suppose to hook that up to a port in the intake. But there isn't anything on the spectre intake to attach it to.



    Most of these ports I just capped per the instructions that I could see. No heater/AC.



    These two wires that i'm suppose to cut since I believe the coyote controls them. When I cut them, do I just leave them? Cap them? Remove the wires from the fuse panel?




    And for the fan control, I believe this orange wire is suppose to attach to the cooling fan, which it's way to short to reach.
    Instructions say "run the harness with the orange fan wire forward to the fan and connect to the blue wire."
    "Ground the black wire"
    I'm a little lost on how it goes together. Do I just run a wire between the short orange wire and splice it onto the blue wire and connect the blue wire on the cooling fan connection? Or???
    Ground the black wire from the second picture? Or the one on the connection? Or just plug the black ground wire into the connection?
    And on the diagram that shows cutting the fan relay control wire, it says to ground one of the thermostat green wires. I was just gonna ground the Fan Thermo SW wire in the picture below?

    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  22. #216
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Responses:

    - white plug in the picture for the Gen 3 Coyote doesn't have anything to plug into. Just leave as is.

    - yellow taped port is the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) for the LH cylinder bank. Yes, it needs to hook up to your intake. And no, the Spectre intake doesn't have the connection. You need to add it.

    - for your intake connections, mostly OK. You're missing powering the CMCV circuit. I documented here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post351623. Also, with no heater, you're supposed to have a bypass hose between the two heater ports with a restrictor inside. If you bought the Coyote completion kit, it includes the parts necessary for the bypass.

    - for all your wiring questions, looks like you're using the wrong wiring instructions. That's the standard Ron Francis harness manual, right? You need to use the specific Factory Five Coyote installation instructions. It gives the exact instructions. Example: For the cooling fan, you don't use any of the RF circuits or relays. You take the orange Coyote fan wire directly to the positive lead of the cooling fan. Ground the other side, and you're done.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  23. #217
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Here's what I was referencing with the orange cable. It's from the Coyote instructions. So just add some wire to make it long enough and a connector at the end and plug it into the blue side. Run any wire to a ground or do I need to use that ground wire in the previous pics? Do I not use those wires for anything in that previous pic? (blue cooling fan, green thermo, black ground)




    And I guess the coyote instructions doesn't say anything about cutting this red wire, so don't cut it? It says to cut it to make the computer control it, I was assuming that was the Coyote computer.




    I appreciate your responses.
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  24. #218
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Right. Connect the Coyote cooling fan wire to the blue wire on the cooling fan. You'll need to extend the wire as discussed. The black ground wire on the fan motor can go to any existing ground wire (e.g. in the RF front harness, which is what I do) or you can clean a spot on the chassis and attach it directly in the area of the cooling fan. The RF blue cooling fan and green thermo are not used. You could use the black ground but doesn't have to be that specific one. Ground is ground wherever. You don't need to cut anything on the RF cooling fan panel. Wired direct that circuit isn't used for the cooling fan. 100% controlled and powered by the Coyote system.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  25. #219
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Awesome, thanks.
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  26. #220
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Carbon fiber dashboard has arrived. It looks really nice.
    Fedex says the fuel tank will be here tomorrow and that will be the last of the POL parts.

    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  27. #221
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    looks great man.

  28. #222
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Still can’t figure out the fuel pump wiring. The green wire is getting no power. The fuel pump works if I put the wires I was suppose to cut back together. I replaced the relay just in case but no help...
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  29. #223
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    Still can’t figure out the fuel pump wiring. The green wire is getting no power. The fuel pump works if I put the wires I was suppose to cut back together. I replaced the relay just in case but no help...
    Responded in your separate thread with this question. Maybe it's just semantics, but the Coyote green fuel pump wire doesn't "get power." It outputs +12V from the fuel pump when commanded by the PCM. So when you turn the key on, you should be able to measure +12V on that wire. If there's no voltage on the wire, the PCM isn't commanding it. Or a fuse in the PDB as I mentioned.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  30. #224
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    So, is there a way to know if it’s the computer?

    I hooked the wires up so the fuel pump runs continuously and tried turning it over. Never fired once.
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  31. #225
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    I checked every single fuse, none were bad.
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
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    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  32. #226
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    Shocks showed up yesterday. They look pretty nice. Will be nice to finally have the suspension all done.

    Couple questions. The springs show #400 and #500 on them, any idea which ones go on the front and rear? I looked through the parts list and directions and none specify. The parts list both say front coil over.

    so weird I got my springs, and everything else but the shock bodies
    Todd
    25th Anniversary MkIV | #20 of 25 | Build #9772
    https://cobradreams.com/ <- my build!

  33. #227
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    So, no idea exactly how I got it to work. After talking to the Ford Tech, he suggested sending in the computer to get looked at.
    As a last ditch effort I went through and disconnected everything on the coyote wiring, computer, battery, grounds and re-connected everything one last time. Michael Everson commented on Facebook that the first start took a long crank to get it going. After I connected everything back up, still wasn't hearing the fuel pump but I cranked it over for what seemed like a long time. And it finally fired. I've started it a few times and starts good. I got it running last night, this morning it cranked over longer then I think it should but I do hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on now.
    Cooling fan works, oil psi, water temp, volts, gas gauge work but the Oil temp gauge didn't seem to be working.
    Small coolant leak where I put the oil psi/water temp sensors in the engine but otherwise everything seemed good.

    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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  35. #228
    Senior Member ydousurf's Avatar
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    Awesome! Nice work in getting to the (FSS - First Start Stage) this quickly. c[CHEERS!] - Here's to the final push to get your dream on the road!

    Dj

  36. #229

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    Nice! That's great news - definitely one of the best feelings of the build to get that first start!

  37. #230
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    Congrats! Glad to hear she's running.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
    Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
    Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread

  38. #231
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Strange. But good. These things do go through a learning process. Hard to imagine that it has to learn basic stuff like "turn the fuel pump and injectors on." Not going to argue with success. But keep an eye on it. Both my Coyote's (Gen 2 and Gen 3) start almost instantly. Very little cranking required.
    Last edited by edwardb; 02-28-2020 at 05:29 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  40. #232
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Took the car out around the block today. Everything felt good, drove good. Only got up to second gear though. Gave the kids a ride, they loved it.

    Interior is almost done. Still a little more carpet and finish the glovebox. But I like it.


    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


    Car

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  42. #233
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    The car is still taking a long time to start for the first start of the day.
    After the first start, it starts pretty good again.

    Guessing something with the fuel pump, but once it's running it runs great.
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


    Car

  43. #234
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    What temp. range does your gauge start to read at?
    Oil temps take a long time to register on the gauge, and that's while out cruising around, not just idling in the driveway. It probably works fine, you just haven't got it hot enough yet.

  44. #235
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    What temp. range does your gauge start to read at?
    Oil temps take a long time to register on the gauge, and that's while out cruising around, not just idling in the driveway. It probably works fine, you just haven't got it hot enough yet.
    I'm actually gonna remove the Oil temp gauge and order a clock that matches. I really dont need a oil temp gauge.
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


    Car

  45. #236
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    Dash Q?

    Quote Originally Posted by delta0014 View Post
    I'm actually gonna remove the Oil temp gauge and order a clock that matches. I really dont need a oil temp gauge.
    Where did you get the carbon fiber dash?

  46. #237
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jiriza84641 View Post
    Where did you get the carbon fiber dash?
    comes with the 25th anniversary car
    Todd
    25th Anniversary MkIV | #20 of 25 | Build #9772
    https://cobradreams.com/ <- my build!

  47. #238
    Senior Member delta0014's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jiriza84641 View Post
    Where did you get the carbon fiber dash?
    Yes, the carbon fiber dash and the seats were part of the 25th anniversary edition. I'd be surprised if FFR didn't offer the carbon fiber dash in the future as an upgrade. I think it looks great.
    25th Anniversary Roadster #12 of 25
    Gen 3 Coyote
    TKO 600 mid-shift


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