Getting a little more serious!

[natehall37]

Hey all, I've finally reached a point financially where I'm starting to get a little more serious about ordering a car, WAHOO! My plan is to get a complete kit with IRS and go from there, I don't have all of my options figured out yet though. I thinking a mild 351W build for the motor, something not too over the top though, I don't really have any track day aspirations (for now) or auto cross in mind for the car. I do kinda need some direction in transmission though, What are the good/bad aspects of the transmissions that we have available to us? My hope was to find one used (hopefully attached to a motor) and refurbish/rebuild both of them. Any recommendations on this would be great.

A couple of other questions I had are about interior options:

Is power steering worth it, or even needed?

Same question for brakes?

I have to admit that I don't think I've ever owned or driven a car that didn't have power brakes, so I don't really know how a car behaves without them. One of my first cars did't have power steering though and it didn't bother me too much, that was a long time ago though. My thoughts for both are to have power assist on both.

Has anyone done heated and cooled seats? I've seen kits for this and thought the cooled seats would be a great option for the roadster since there no escaping the sun.

I have tons of more questions but this is a good place to start.

Cheers, Nate

[Papa]

Welcome! Building one of these cars has been one of the most rewarding projects I've ever taken on. A good plan starts with knowing how you intend to use the car. That will help set a basis for the must haves vs. the nice to haves. I think the transmission is a simple answer if you're not going to do the donor route for the drive train. Tremec TKO-600 will provide solid performance for just about any use. Power steering was an option that I wasn't sure I needed, but the guys who have been at this much longer than me convinced me to go with power and I'm glad I did. I didn't do power brakes, but did upgrade to Wilwoods. They feel good to me for street use. There are plenty who have built both ways that will recommend power brakes. Bottom line; build what you want and enjoy the ride.

[delta0014]

Can't help too much as my kit won't even be here for a couple more weeks, but everything I've read on the forum recommends power steering.

Seems power brakes are a little more divided, I am not sure if i'm going do them. Would love to hear from people too about it.
Whitby sells a kit that I was looking at for power brakes.

[CraigS]

Trans; Make it simple and get either TKO 500 or 600. 500 has just one set of gear ratios and they work fine. 600 has options for 1st and 5th. BTW, your choice of a mild 351 build is what I always recommend. Depending on what you find for the basic engine, you can use all the internal parts. just have the crank and rods balanced and buy a new set of pistons to get the CR up to 9.5 or so. Look at the Edelbrock top end and cam kits. If you end up w/ a mostly bare or worn block you can go to an overbore kit and get 408 cubes. But that will start a spiral of more $.
Steering; Go for power. In addition to reducing effort, it allows you to run more caster which gives the car a stronger tendency to go straight
Brakes; power is OK but not needed. The Wilwood bias adjustable MC setup is much more useful. Getting the front to rear brake balance perfected by using the adjuster can make a huge difference. The standard front calipers FFR provides w/ the stock 2015 Mustang rear calipers is a great package when you choose the right pad compound. That is what I have on mine and the brake effort is just a bit more than my Tacoma and the car stops really, really well. If you buy your IRS from a salvage yard as a complete assembly you can get rear brakes essentially free.

[Sdonnel]

My build used a 351 and I went with the TKO600 from Liberty Gear in Michigan. They offer upgrades if you're going to apply higher horsepower levels that will of course, make the cost higher. As for power steering, I say it's a must. My first car did not have it and when I built this one, with autocross in mind, it was planned from the start. Now that it's on the road, it's a very nice improvement. I went with manual brakes and haven't had any issues on two cars, thus far. You've got a good plan for the project. Look at everything you can. Pick what you like and pass on what you don't. My car is literally a collection of those options and details I saw on other cars that I decided I wanted. You won't be wrong, as it's your decision. Bounce ideas off the forum like you are, whenever needed. The answer is somewhere on this forum. The search function will give you hours of materials to read, and more ideas than you ever imagined.

Scott

[GFX2043mtu]

For a 351w or any of the stroker variants as stated get a TKO 600 or a upgraded version as that’s what you’ll need. Any T5 behind any thing but a soft 351 won’t last long. As far as brakes go I’m running manual steering and it works great. Is pier steering nice yes. Especialy at low parking lot speeds and power uses a little quicker rack. Manual steering how ever works fine and at any speed over 10 mph, it gives you that vintage feel and the feed back is in the wheel is perfect. I’m using FFR Wilwood 6 pistons in front and 4 piston Wilwoods out back with a bias adjuster, and the stopping power if needed is very very good. Yes the pedal take a little more force but it’s nothing crazy. With the big brakes this car can stop just as hard as the best sports cars today. In the end you’ll get arguments for both sides. Determine what you want and go that route. What I can tell you is both power and no power options work, and work well. My choice was very good manual brakes and a non power rack for the vintage feel and feedback. Others may want it differently and that’s ok too. Heated seats have been done along with heaters. This stuff is all doable and personal choice although I’m not sure what cooled seats would do. Once moving the wind cools you off nicely. Getting out of the sun (convertible top) to me would be worth more then cooled seats. Buts that my personal choice.

[toadster]

for power steering - check out http://www.epowersteering.com/ they have a MKIV kit for $650 (not on their website) but they'll invoice you...

it's cheaper than the power steering options with pump, and less parasitic loss on the drivetrain as well! This is what I'll be using!

[frankb]

Go with power steering! I first finished #8317 without it and could drive it OK, but the steering effort was really high at creeping speeds. I added e-power steering (I used parts from www.epowersteering.com ) and love it! It changed the personality of the car!

[natehall37]

Thanks for all the great feedback guys, it's good to hear opinions on both sides especially with some of you guys experiencing both ways on your cars. I'm getting so dang excited, but don't want to pull the trigger until I've put in the research. CraigS, that is a great option about the salvage IRS that hadn't even crossed my mind, Thanks for that! Looks like I'm leaning towards power steering for sure and undecided on the brakes, I just need one of you guys to drive your car up to the Pacific NorthWest so I can experience it for myself Do any of you guys run windshield wipers? Since I am here in Oregon and could get caught in the occasional rain storm. My thought is that rainX would probably get me through in a pinch and I'd like to keep the looks as clean as possible, but it's worth bringing up. Cheers!

[CraigS]

Install wipers. RainX kind of works but it's a pain to do a normal windex clean of the w/s. This thought holds true for other options also. Once you have the car on the road, you will realize you can't drive it as much as you might like due to weather. Thinking of taking it to lunch Saturday and forecast is 35% rain? Do you go in the FFR? W/ wipers you are taking a chance of getting wet. W/o wipers you are taking a chance on your safety.

[chmhasy]

Nathehall37, You need to check what Oregon wants on the car for inspection and registration. As for pulling the trigger you can always change up as needed during the build. I was planning a 4.6L build and after I got the kit. sitting in my garage I changed up to a 351Windsor. as for a good parts source of used parts www.car-part.com

And just pull that trigger!!

[chmhasy]

BTW, Factory five is having a fall sale right now. Time to order!

[Avalanche325]

I think a 347 or a 351 is a great choice for an old school engine. The 351 is an easy way to get good torque and power with a calm unstressed engine.
As said, the TKO 500 or 600 is the go-to for these. If you are staying under 450 hp, the 500 is fine, but the 600 is not much more $, for more durability and gear choice. Basically standard and road race (close ratio). If you are going to track / autocross , the Liberty's gears upgrades are nice. I ended doing this after I fried a synchro.

I think power steering is a must. You will have wide sticky tires. I am a fan of old school hydraulic. Electric is a little more of a detached feeling.

Brakes - My opinion - I would not build one of these without Wilwoods. I autorcoss regularly, occasional track day, and do a lot of cruising. You cannot have a car that stops too fast. No need for power with Wilwoods, but it does take firm pressure. I'll let other guys chime in on power stock brakes. Many are happy with them. I drove a MKI with donor brakes and it was less than confidence inspiring to say the least. OK, here I go again.... The most important component in the braking system is your tires. Please put good high performance tires on your car. Your stopping distance, steering and acceleration are dependent on them.

Wipers - My opinion is why would you build a car without them? I know that a lot of people don't intend to drive in the rain, but eventually everyone does. I do multi-day Cobra club events, and it is a running joke that it always rains on the way to the meet-up. I have been in rain more times than you can count.

I live in northern Florida. I have a heater and heated seats. I use them quite a bit. The driving season is all year long here, and in the winter when I head out early for something, the heater goes on and fairly often the seats.

The best thing for escaping the sun is the premium soft top. It is pricey, but a nice piece. Mine goes on and stays on for the entire summer. Baking in the sun gets old pretty fast. This can always be added later. When you build, set your windshield angle for the top even if you don't think you are getting one.

You don't intend to autocross, but you should at least do a few just to see what your car is like on its and your limit. There is no way to find this out on the street with out either going to jail or the hospital. The SCCA put on safe, low cost events.