Lower control arm in bottom hole

[VIRGIN MIKE]

Hi Folks, thought I had a roller yesterday, today I'm trying to figure out how to get the aft end of the lower control arm bolt from bottoming against the frame. Replaced supplied bolt with button head; still does not clear. Upper set of holes works correctly but I would rather not give up the ground clearanceIMG_1381.jpg
Seems like welding a longer ear on the bushing would solve the issue but I don't know what the perils of trying that would be and not sure I want to find out. Appreciate any suggestions

[Pat Landymore]

My solution is I’m going to use the lower holes on every other suspension mounting point, and move my lower control arm mounting points to the upper holes. I did consider notching the frame in that area and decided against it, in part because perhaps I’m lazy.

My thinking is people raise and lower suspension all the time in vehicles...I can’t see why this one is so special.

Yes, I may need to crank the front springs up a little bit. The front suspension is in some aspects Mustang parts, so bump steer kits etc are readily available and should solve any evil handling that may be created along the way.

That’s my 2 cents.
Cheers

[VIRGIN MIKE]

Thanks, That was my first thought, then I read about changing the bolt but that didn't work in our case; wonder what else is out there
before I put it all back togather

[bnelson]

I used the lower holes with button heads. It will hit frame if I jack front end way up but think its way past any normal suspension travel? You guys have me worried now. Maybe I'm assuming to much? Anybody have any input on how far they should be able to travel downward?

[Pat Landymore]

I think the issue with the button head is that because it still hits the frame, the residual tension in the springs is trying to bend the rod end it goes through. The higher any of us have our front suspension jacked up, the worse this issue becomes.

I believe the design of the suspension is that when the truck is jacked up by the frame, front suspension travel limited by the internal travel of the shocks. I will switch my bolts to the upper position later today and post my findings either way.

[FLJackrabbit]

Can someone post pics of where and how it is hitting the frame? I don't have my kit yet so I am having a hard time picturing the issue. I need 5"-6" of ground clearance for it to be my daily driver.

[Pat Landymore]

Here you go! Drivers side is moved, passenger side much easier for me since I had all my steering gear tightened down.
First photo is the pinch point, next two are illustrating that I can easily rotate the spring around the shock when the suspension is fully extended, in my mind confirming the shock limits the total travel.
D2DC606C-B19B-4AA5-B77A-8C844E5B8A94.jpg

[Pat Landymore]

trying photos again...
DAB8D18E-3340-45F2-AD0C-7A0400BDB188.jpg

3AC302EE-54E0-4841-8BBE-E83443BB86BD.jpg

[VIRGIN MIKE]

The home office told me not to move the lower arm to the upper hole, if leaving all else in the lower holes

[Pat Landymore]

I have a couple of questions:
1) Did they offer any technical explanation as to why?
2) Did you have a chance to ask them about your (I think very good...) idea of making the ear longer on the rear lower bushing?
Thanks!

[VIRGIN MIKE]

Home office told me not to use upper holes for lower control arms, only. I suggested bushing assembly with longer ear to move bolt away from frameAttachment 116604

(Pat, check your forum email)

[Pat Landymore]

Howdy Mike
Thanks, replies sent.

[rponfick]

Looks like you guy with the later chassis have too many choices to confuse you. I guess I am lucky to have an early chassis (#15), and only have one hole to choose from. No choices is so much simpler.
Ralph