If you're gonna' bring me a car with an Optima battery please install a set of remote terminals so it will be easier to jump start. Because it will need to be jump started
That is all,
Jeff
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If you're gonna' bring me a car with an Optima battery please install a set of remote terminals so it will be easier to jump start. Because it will need to be jump started
That is all,
Jeff
Not really, it's just that the "Another dead Optima" thing is growing old.
Jeff
I agree.. most overrated overpriced POS battery I've ever had the misfortune of paying for.
Even the "deep cycle" claim is a load of hogwash. Dang Successful Marketing Campaign!!
2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |
I know it's been discussed but what battery/batteries have you had good luck with?
Words Of Wisdom From Mr. Scotty K!
https://youtu.be/hKo5iJ2rH7o
He Loves Optima Batteries Too!
Scotty "loves" everything. As long as it is a pre 2010 manual transmission Toyota, he is good with it. (I enjoy his show)
In my own roadster I run a plain ol' lead acid from Autozone (first one lasted 8 years and the current one is going on 6). I put the same in any ones I build. Three of the cars I've had in the shop for paint over the past year have had Optimas. All three have had to be jumped if they sit more than a week to 10 days. OK, not all 3; one of them would consistently be dead in 3 days). I had to jump one this morning for the second time in a week. I know some guys will tell us that they have used them with great success and I believe them but in my sample of 3...not so much.
Jeff
Optima’s used to be the best out there. Then they got sold off-shore! I use NAPA batteries and have had good luck with them. They have great warranties. Those that know me will be surprised!!!
Henry
I have had good luck with mine, but you pretty much never know these days when a product starts getting manufactured on the cheap and / or gets sold to a different company. Optima is owned by Johnson controls, but I think that happened quite a while ago.
I've gone to the Value Power brand from Walmart in everything.
Rural King has a similar brand.
$49 - one year warranty - no prorate.
3-4 years so far - no problems in anything.
Johnson Controls is the sole supplier.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
Diehard..Duralast...Kirkland...Motorcraft...EverSt art...Interstate...Diehard and yes Optima are made by Johnson Controls here in the good USA.
Exide technology is the other American battery maker...
EverStart in all my cars..
Jet
Last edited by Jetfuel; 10-22-2019 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Few more
Buy an Odyssey. I have a PC545, weighs 14#, 7x4x5.25". Never had an issue, and it's made right here in Missouri. Jeff didn't jump it.
Optima's are made in Mexico I think
My experience with Optima batteries has been a bad one. If you let one go flat, it will not come back. I’ve sworn off them. For my 818 I bought a Braille. It’s smaller than a garden tractor battery. I intend to make a dual-fit battery tray in case the Braille lets go while on a trip, I can just put in a garden tractor battery to make it home. I don’t like the extra weight of conventional batteries, so trying to keep things reasonably light.
Last edited by Jeff Kleiner; 10-22-2019 at 07:24 PM.
Did not check build location but Red Top bought from Amazon $147.50 & installed early in 2014 has never been recharged. Longest time between running was 3 weeks. Harness is set for radio/ECU keep alive so there is a slight draw all the time.
Battery is in the trunk so wanted a 'dry' battery.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 10-23-2019 at 09:17 AM.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
I have an Optima, and I installed the wires to connect to the charger. Have only had to charge it once, when it hadn't run in more than a month. You want me to bring the charger, too?
Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount
shocked I am. Long ago used them with good results. Checked reviews on Amazon, wow. For fun read the 1 star reviews.
FFR 35 p/u # 0014
I used to think I needed a Rolex watch, now I’d be happier with a Swedish K!
We have a number of engines and as such batteries here. For my tractors, RTV's, generators, jet skis, I use whatever the parts store has on sale and they never fail to give a year or two past their life...sometimes much longer. But we don't get terribly cold down here, so I don't know if that could have any affect on performance over time. For our cars, motorcoach, standby generators I like Lifeline batteries. The only batteries I've really ever had issues with are the factory one that came with my Jeep and the Optima I replaced it with.
Last edited by RBachman; 10-23-2019 at 06:04 PM.
FFR MKIV ordered 12 July 2019. IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Wheels w/MT tires, power steering, EFI, Heat. 347 Dart w/TKO-600 by Mike Forte, Holley FI, MSD coil and CD box. All new, no donor build.
Let me tell you about a couple of factory batteries. We bought a new 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 on Halloween night 2002. In January of 2014 right before my wife was about to tow horses to Florida for the winter I put a new Interstate battery in it as a precaution. That's right, over 12 years. I brought that battery home and put it on the shelf. That summer the ORIGINAL battery in my 2003 Dodge Dakota finally died at 12+ years old so I took the what had been big truck's original battery out of storage and put it in the Dakota. When I sold it in the Spring of 2016 that battery was still in it and starting it every day! Nearly 14 years! Unbelievable! Whoever Chrysler was using as their OEM supplier at that time went over and above
Jeff
The original batteries in my F250 lasted almost 7 years. When it was time to change them, I bought the "same" batteries from Ford. In two years, one of the two was gone. Ford replaced it and two years after that, the new one died. I dumped the Ford batteries and put a couple of Optima red tops in and so far so good, but it's only been two years. Seems that the OEM guys get much better quality batteries than they sell in the parts department.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
Now that's ........ NAPA KNOW HOW!
I use Napa Lead acid batteries, occasionally I use an AGM ... 'cause that's all that fits in the FFR spot for a hot rod or pickup..... But I am not a fan, and yes I have had two of them fail. Not sure if Optima's are AGM or Gel.
Generally I try not to overcomplicate simple things and just use a Group 24 lead acid battery, They have worked for years in cars designed simply like most roadsters.
FFinisher/AKA RE63
I installed an Auto Zone Duralast pretty early in my build. First time it died from sitting, it never would take a charge. Now have a whatever brand from Tractor Supply and its working great.
My 2011 F150 still has the factory original. 8 years and almost 100,000 miles and still going strong.
---Boyd---
MkIV #9042 build thread
www.boss427.us
427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019
Jeff, does a front mounted battery qualify?
JR
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint
I looked at those Optimas, but damn they're expensive, at least double what a "good" battery costs and like you guys my Tacoma has it's original battery since 2012. And with these mini starters we just don't need much battery, so I went with what was rated well and on sale in a group 51 battery. I figure too that with the up front location and shorter cables things are naturally more efficient, electrically speaking.
Looks like Optima has replaced MSD to get forum abuse. Just to confirm, Optima batteries are AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) as opposed to the traditional flooded lead acid pack. They require a battery charger specifically for AGM. Many, like the CTEK one I use, has both. Optima also has a couple decent battery charger options. A non-AGM battery charger could easily damage an AGM battery. Any chance that could be happening with those having failures? AGM batteries are, by definition, more expensive. So like everything have to decide if worth it. I've used deep cycle yellow top Optimas in several builds, and so far so good. But agree they're not cheap. Odyssey is another AGM option which supposedly has a good reputation, but they're not cheap either. Have a Odyssey PC925T in my Gen 3 Coupe build.
Last edited by edwardb; 10-24-2019 at 11:04 AM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Thanks Paul,
I’m laid up after back surgery and was just thinking about putting my trickle charger on my Optima. I’ll double check to see if it is compatible with AGM batteries.
Thanks for the post. Good timing.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Ordinarily those reputations are earned and based in fact. I think MSD and Optima probably are very similar---they initially introduced good products but over time quality declined due to outsourcing or cost cutting and the products became a crap shoot...some performing as intended and others not so much. It's when the "not so much" begins to reach a significant percentage of the total that these reputations develop.
I can't speak for others but that isn't happening to the ones that are with me because I'm not putting them on my non=AGM charger. When they're dead I follow manufacturers' recommendation and jump them with a loose battery (i.e. not in a car) so that the Optima does not see an amperage spike when connected to a charging alternator. I've had owners send me their Optima chargers and when they do I just keep the car plugged in---kinda' like having a Tesla!
I have some legitimate question for you guys with the AGM batteries: Why? Seriously what drove your decision? What does the AGM battery do/not do vs a wet lead acid battery? Paul or others; do you keep them on the charger when parked for an extended period? Those of you who do this have you experienced any failures?
Jeff
I have four vehicles that have Optima red tops, two are daily drivers. I have had to replace one of them, but it had 17 years of a life well lived. As to the others, one is 13 years old, and the others are 8, 6, and 2 years old. Can't remember when the last time was that I had to use a jump starter. I do start everything at least once a month, whether it needs it or not.
Last year, I was talked into using battery tenders, but up until that time none of them had any special treatment. Since putting the battery tenders on, there has been no appreciable change in the batteries performance, so I am not sure if it helps or not. Can't hurt, so they are still hooked up at this time.
My primary reason was no gassing or corrosion on the posts, which are at times can be hard to get at, especially when under a cover in a box mounted in the floor of the trunk. And since the red top has worked so well, I use it in the others.
Yes, they are expensive, but I can't afford to buy cheap parts. Cheap parts are the ones that give me problems.
I also use MSD ignitions. I have MSD's in three cars with no failures .
Derald.
MK2 #3319.... On the road since 2002 with a lot of upgrades
Agree. Was my feeble attempt at putting humor into the discussion. I personally never had trouble with MSD boxes. But my sample size was a grand total of two. Lots of other people did though, and they certainly got beat up whenever mentioned on the forum. Same now it seems for Optima.
Can't say it was a terribly scientific or widely researched decision on my part. I put a red top Optima in my first Mk3 build in 2010. In the stock trunk location. Selected it based on what I thought was a good reputation plus at that time Costco carried them and price and carry-in warranty was attractive. That battery is still going today. For the two Mk4's I've built, both have the Breeze front mount battery. Didn't find a lot of choices for the recommended Group 51 size battery (even though I know there are several) and decided to go with the deep cycle yellow top Optimas that could be ordered with the posts in the best orientation. Again, based on reputation that I was under the impression was good. Plus hoping to get long life since they're not particularly easy to change in that location. Especially #8674 with the Coyote. I use a CTEK 3300 charger which has an AGM selection for testing and charging. During the driving season, don't use it. For winter storage, I don't leave it permanently connected. Several times during the storage time, I put the charger on to check and top it off. So far all good. The one in #8674 is coming up to four years old. Don't know about #7750. Haven't heard from the current owner in NY for awhile. That one would be 6-1/2 years old now. The Odessey AGM I chose for the Coupe build uses the same CTEK charger, and I'm planning on treating it the same. Too early to report any long term experience. OK so far. Agree with Derald on how clean they stay. I've never had a trace of corrosion on the posts or clamps.
Last edited by edwardb; 10-24-2019 at 04:03 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I feel your pain Jeff . . . jumping cars with inaccessible batteries sucks!
Now on to the reason I jumped in here; I guess I'm the "old Man" of the group here, that have, and run Optima batteries. 18 years on my Red Top and counting. Only time I put it on a "Battery Tender" is if it's going to be sitting for more than a month. I've had my car apart several times in 18 years for extended periods of time to do my yearly nut-n-bolt sesion mixed in with some "winter mods". Battery has been sitting three to four months at a time - reconnected after mods were done and car fired right up.
That being said, my Red Top was originally purchased back in late 2001 when it became time for electrical testing on the build. I figure that was when Optima was that "good battery" that everyone is talking about . . . not so sure now-a-days.
If and when it finally dies, I'll more than likely replace it with a different type of battery, something that cost about 1/3 what the Optima sells for.
Just my 2¢ and not worth a plugged nickle
Doc
FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.
My reason was two fold, location of battery, and I hate how lead acid battery can cause corrosion. Never put mine on a charger, has sat for as long as two months, fired right up. Oh ya have a MSD box too. So far so good with that.
IMG_2313.jpeg
Last edited by Aircontroller; 10-25-2019 at 07:51 PM.
Trunk mounted battery purchased late 2013 or early 2014. Did not want to mix a lead acid battery with my tonneau cover, gloves & jacket I keep there. No failures since new. Have left it a max of 3 weeks without a trickle charge & car started up. Have slight continuous draw with ECU & radio memories.
Have had AGM batteries as OEM on a number of cars & have not had a fail with one. Batteries are not retail branded so I don't know who made them. They do not look to be spiral cell units.
Knew about & have a proper charger so that was not an extra issue.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 10-25-2019 at 11:45 AM.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
Be prepared ! Most of the new cars that have start stop technology use AGM batteries ! Some even have dual batteries.
Kenny