Newbie - MK4 on order, delivery on Thursday 11/14!
After several years of discussion, I attended the build school in September and placed my order. MK4 complete kit with Blue Print 347 EFI, IRS, plus other options. Engine is here. Body and kit arrives on Thursday. Garage space, jack stands, body buck and tools are all ready to go.
I am excited but apprehensive, as this is my first build. I will have hundreds of questions, but have a rather basic "start" question, after I do inventory, and remove the body and start the process.
I plan to powder coat the engine bay panels and any panels that can easily be seen. I just don't care for the bare aluminum look. The underside panels I plan to coat with DB Skin to be a bit more protective than PC. Bed Liner coat the wheel wells. Dynamat and heat shield on interior footwells and firewall.
So my question is do I drill most of the panels using cleco's right away (at least the ones pre-installed), disassemble and then PC the engine bay panels, then start the build. Basically get all the aluminum out of the way in the beginning.
Or is it better to go by the book and drill/PC/coat along the way. I am sure it will cost more to PC in batches.
Pretty basic question, but want to make sure the sequence is correct.
I am sure I will be back with more. Thanks in advance.
Also do I got to the roadster forum for future questions?
After several years of discussion, I attended the build school in September and placed my order. MK4 complete kit with Blue Print 347 EFI, IRS, plus other options. Engine is here. Body and kit arrives on Thursday. Garage space, jack stands, body buck and tools are all ready to go.
I am excited but apprehensive, as this is my first build. I will have hundreds of questions, but have a rather basic "start" question, after I do inventory, and remove the body and start the process.
I plan to powder coat the engine bay panels and any panels that can easily be seen. I just don't care for the bare aluminum look. The underside panels I plan to coat with DB Skin to be a bit more protective than PC. Bed Liner coat the wheel wells. Dynamat and heat shield on interior footwells and firewall.
So my question is do I drill most of the panels using cleco's right away (at least the ones pre-installed), disassemble and then PC the engine bay panels, then start the build. Basically get all the aluminum out of the way in the beginning.
Or is it better to go by the book and drill/PC/coat along the way. I am sure it will cost more to PC in batches.
Pretty basic question, but want to make sure the sequence is correct.
I am sure I will be back with more. Thanks in advance.
Also do I got to the roadster forum for future questions?
Vince
Welcome and congratulations on your kit order and upcoming delivery. Several comments in response to your post. I wouldn't call the panels that are on your chassis when delivered to be "pre-installed." They are there for shipping. The locations will be close or maybe spot on in same cases. But not always. Follow the manual for the installation sequence, and determine the best location with all the pieces installed. By all means, drill all the panels and have them coated in as big of batches as possible. I typically do a build in two batches. First is the largest which includes most everything. The second batch is smaller, and includes parts that can't be fitted until later in the build. Like splash guards, radiator pieces in the nose, etc. I always find the comment interesting to powder coat panels "that show." In reality nearly all panels show. Just a matter of how close you want to look. Underhood is obvious. But wheel wells show for example. I've always powder coated the underside as well, and it's held up just fine after multiple driving seasons. Still looks brand new. Looked up DB Skin since I wasn't familiar with it. Appears to be basically the same as Lizard Skin (latex based spray-on) which I'm very familiar with as I've used on all my builds. I personally don't think it's the best for underside. I only put it on the inside, under the carpet. It dries hard enough I guess, but nothing like a solvent or catalyzed undercoat product. Plus won't be easy to keep clean if that's important to you. If you do choose to put a product like that on the underside, highly recommend to do after the pieces are installed. The thickness will mess up the fit of your panels if you spray them first.
There are lots of opinions about these topics. These are mine. Hopefully others will post and you decide. As we say all the time on here, it's your build so do it the way you want. Good luck.
Last edited by edwardb; 11-11-2019 at 08:32 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Welcome, I've been building since late March of 2017 and loving it. I'd like to be on the road by next spring/summer. If you are ever up my way you are welcome to check-out my build.
JR
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint
Like Kleiner said! My car is ready for paint, but as I go back and look at the little pieces that were installed last, I have quite a collection to get coated and reinstalled by January when the car leaves for paint. I can't tell you how much stress it saved by not having the panels coated when drilling them. You literally have the in and out of the car 3-4 times and if you use the sharpie on the back side to mark the attach points, you might be leaving marker on your new panels. AND, it saves on scratching the panels when your drill bit moves off target (or breaks).
Scott
Built FFR9457. 351 Windsor, TKO600, 3.73. Fitech EFI. Russ Thompson throttle pedal, turn signal, and trunk pan. Carbon Fiber dash with Speedhut Revolution gauges. Paint by Jeff Kleiner.
Thanks. I forgot to mention that I live near Charlottesville VA and would love to meet any local FF owners.
I’m in Richmond! We’re contemplating a move to Cville in the near future. I’m still a few years away from purchasing, but heavy into researching the build. I drive through there all the time, and my wife’s family is all out that way, thus the potential move...
Let me know if you ever need a set of unskilled hands to help! I have a newborn, but if I can get away to help out, I’m happy to learn and assist any way I can.
I can be free tomorrow if you need help with the delivery, just let me know!
Thanks. Build will be in Gordonsville. Tomorrow is just delivery and get it up on stands, stack boxes. Inventory next week. I may take you up on your offer as i start to drown in details....
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by vtullomk4
