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Thread: radiator alignment

  1. #1
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    radiator alignment

    Book says 5/8 off-center? any reason why not centered?

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    That's a leftover from the donor radiator days. If you have a new kit supplied radiator, it can be centered.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I didn't know about the "hold-out from donor days" and installed mine with the offset (Coyote power) in #9365. Having it offset actually helped with needed clearance for the drain petcock, so consider it...
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    I didn't know about the "hold-out from donor days" and installed mine with the offset (Coyote power) in #9365. Having it offset actually helped with needed clearance for the drain petcock, so consider it...
    It's true. Been repeated lots of times in multiple posts plus my own experience. But I agree, mount it where it make sense. Check all the clearances and hookups.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  6. #5
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Position it so that you can get the upper hose clamped on and let it fall where it may whether that is center or offset.

    Jeff

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    Senior Member tbl100's Avatar
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    I just installed my radiator and I offset it the 5/8" because I wanted the side aluminum pieces to fit properly as designed. I wold have rather had it centered (just because i like symmetry) For those who center theirs what do you do about the side pieces?

    -Tim

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  10. #7
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Radiator looks a bit funny with the offset but you need it for clearance. You can hide the whole thing behind a Nomex honeycomb that will also protect the radiator from stones.



    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbl100 View Post
    I just installed my radiator and I offset it the 5/8" because I wanted the side aluminum pieces to fit properly as designed. I wold have rather had it centered (just because i like symmetry) For those who center theirs what do you do about the side pieces?

    -Tim
    I had absolutely no luck getting the F5-provided aluminum pieces to fit. With the curve of the aluminum side pieces placed to match the contour of the body, I had a 1”+ gap at the bottom of each side piece. Also, the bottom piece was too long to fit between the outriggers (easy enough to trim) and also too wide to fit between the bottom of the radiator and the lip of the body opening. So I ordered the Mike Everson piece (http://www.replicaparts.com/Roadster...nel%20page.htm).


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    I had absolutely no luck getting the F5-provided aluminum pieces to fit. With the curve of the aluminum side pieces placed to match the contour of the body, I had a 1”+ gap at the bottom of each side piece. Also, the bottom piece was too long to fit between the outriggers (easy enough to trim) and also too wide to fit between the bottom of the radiator and the lip of the body opening. So I ordered the Mike Everson piece (http://www.replicaparts.com/Roadster...nel%20page.htm).


    John
    +1 on Mikes part. Never even considered using the FFR pieces. Wanted a smooth no seam duct.



    EDIT: Forgot to post. The two pieces seal against the body forcing 100% of the incoming air through the radiator. Don't recommend it but have never installed the fan shroud I got after the car was finished. Car has been through 4 Carolina summers as a daily driver & the water temp has never gone over 210*F stopped in traffic. Normal running temp is 180*F with the factory thermostat.
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 11-15-2019 at 09:21 AM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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  16. #10

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    Before you do all this take a big hammer and knock your driver side frame horn towards the passenger side a .5 inch....knock the pass side outboard 1/4 to .5. It's where they need to be,,,da bat

  17. #11
    Senior Member tbl100's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    I had absolutely no luck getting the F5-provided aluminum pieces to fit. With the curve of the aluminum side pieces placed to match the contour of the body, I had a 1”+ gap at the bottom of each side piece. Also, the bottom piece was too long to fit between the outriggers (easy enough to trim) and also too wide to fit between the bottom of the radiator and the lip of the body opening. So I ordered the Mike Everson piece (http://www.replicaparts.com/Roadster...nel%20page.htm).


    John
    Thanks John. I placed the side pieces in where I think they belong and noticed a big gap between the pieces and the radiator but was not going to pass judgement until I had the body on and could see how it all came together. Now I'm not as confident. If I end up not using the F5 parts and go with something like the Mike Everson piece I'll go back and center the radiator if it doesn't cause any problems.

    I'd sure like to use some of the parts I got with my complete kit, LOL. I've upgraded a lot of stuff already.

    Thanks,
    Tim

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  19. #12
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
    Before you do all this take a big hammer and knock your driver side frame horn towards the passenger side a .5 inch....knock the pass side outboard 1/4 to .5. It's where they need to be,,,da bat
    Paint fumes and a BFH and Jeff can fix anything!

    The side radiator AL pieces on mine weren't even close. I made some new ones. I agree, mount the radiator based on everything clearing with centered as possible being second.

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