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Thread: 9134 First start

  1. #1
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    9134 First start

    After 2 1/2 years, many enjoyable hours in the shop, a lot of help from you guys on the forum and 100's of Miller Lite, I had my first start on 11/13. https://youtu.be/dJ9c3bOhFU8 Yesterday was my first go kart drive around the block.https://youtu.be/LKUCFz9XRrk It was a great feeling to get to this point. I need to finish up the wiring for the accessories and lights, install the last few aluminum panels and then start on the body fitment. Now to get Jeff Kleiner convinced he needs another car to paint sometime next year.

    Bob

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  3. #2

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Way To Geaux Bob, Way To Geaux!

    ......Congratulations!


  4. #3
    TMartinLVNV's Avatar
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    Great job Bob! Looks and sounds great. It did not seem nearly as loud as I would have thought with open headers.

    Terry
    MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller

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    Looks like you got it right. Congrats. I love how the Coyote, fires up, no hassle, no timing kick backs, etc. I guess you have checked, but your overflow reservoir, looks high.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  6. #5
    Senior Member ydousurf's Avatar
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    Congrats Bob! It's gotta be a great feeling to get to this stage. Enjoy the last few steps before you cross that graduation **********! We'll be looking forward to seeing it with the body on and then off to paint.

    Dj

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    Thanks guys, I had a few things that didn't go as planned. 1. The tach wasn't working, mainly because I didn't read the directions well enough. I read that the default setting was 8 cyl and verified that but it should've been set to .5 pulse per rev. so that was an easy fix. 2. The fuel gauge isn't right. I originally put in about 3 gal and tried a few times to set it to E but gave up and put more fuel in so I could hear it run for the first time. I put about 7 Gal in and would like to get it set to 3/8 or so but haven't figured that out yet.


    Railroad, Definitely started a lot different than the engines I built back in my stock car racing days. One thing I noticed right away when I drove it is the split-second delay in the TBW. It really shows with a quick on/off jab of the throttle but I'm sure it's something I'll get used to.
    As far as the overflow reservoir goes, It is possible that it could be high. I haven't had the body on it yet. I followed edwardb build thread and remember Paul saying somewhere that he put a straight edge across the back of the tank behind the filler neck and it was about flush with the top of the 3/4 tubes that run back toward the firewall and about 1/4 higher than the tube in the front. Mine is flush in the back but a closer to 1/2 in the front.

    Bob
    Last edited by BCrouse; 11-18-2019 at 05:31 AM.

  8. #7
    Senior Member GTBradley's Avatar
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    Well done!
    Bradley

    Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.

    The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.

  9. #8
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Nice to see your Coyote started and runs. Like they usually do. I'm guessing whatever you used to videotape was automatically adjusting to the sound level, and maybe doesn't give a real indication of how loud that is with open headers. I've done it a few times, and each time promised myself I wouldn't again. It's crazy. For your fuel gauge calibration, the amount of fuel in the tank doesn't matter. The calibration is to the sender you have. If you're using the kit provided sender, it's 16 - 158 ohms, which is the 7/8 mark on the gauge when in calibration mode. Follow the Speedhut directions for calibration and you should be good. For the DBW response, maybe there's some learning for the PCM. Or maybe your engine itself isn't responding immediately. I've personally found the engine doesn't run as well with open headers. I'm guessing the O2 sensors aren't getting a good signal. Regardless, with thousands of miles now driving my Coyote, I don't notice any lag at all between the pedal and the engine. For that tank location, if you have the mounting flange on the tank at or slightly below the bottom edge of the radiator cross tube (my standard recommendation) you'll clear the hood. Somewhat easily actually. There's quite a bit of arch to the body and hood.
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  10. #9
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    Do not know if this is applicable on Gen 2 and 3, but seems like my Gen 1 said something about with the key on depress the DBW gas peddle gradually and release.
    I started my Coyote on a can of race gas. I had just the headers on and it was quite. I have since added pump gas and it has more pop to the exhaust.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    If you're using the kit provided sender, it's 16 - 158 ohms, which is the 7/8 mark on the gauge when in calibration mode. Follow the Speedhut directions for calibration and you should be good.
    Thanks Paul. I will give that a try tonight.

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