Boig Motorsports

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Master Cylinder and Drive Shaft Question

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    40
    Post Thanks / Like

    Master Cylinder and Drive Shaft Question

    I have an IRS/Coyote MK4 complete kit with the stock front brakes and the 13" rear brakes. FF sent me 2 - 3/4 bore Master Cylinder's, is that correct? Everything I've read says the rear brake's should have a smaller bore Master Cylinder.

    FF is also out of the lower drive shafts until mid December and after asking they sent me an old drive shaft out of the MK3 which is one piece and they insist it will work. I'm having trouble getting it to fit because it appears to long. After talking with FF I was told to mount the firewall bearing on the inside of the footbox, and unbolt the power steering rack and slide it down in the mounts. I tried this and it still appears to be to long. My biggest question is even if I get this to work I've been told in order to install the Coyote engine this shaft needs to be removed which would make it very difficult if I have to remove the power steering rack also. FF insists any supported engine does not require the steering shaft to be removed but I've read in multiple threads that it does. Does anyone have an opinion on this? Is it possible to install the Coyote engine without removing the steering shaft?

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    10,566
    Post Thanks / Like
    Factory Five switched to supplying the same .75 inch MC's front and back a year or more ago. So it's not a mistake. Unfortunately, the documentation isn't updated so that can be confusing. I haven't seen any explanation from FF why the change was made. Not saying it was right or wrong. Just that I haven't seen a reason.

    For the Coyote in a Roadster, you have to swing it out of the way to get the engine in. Not remove it completely. But unhook from the steering rack, position up next to the frame, drop the engine in, then hook back up. The bearing at the footbox can remain attached and intact throughout. Putting the bearing on the inside isn't a big deal, and what I've had to do a couple times. Loosening the steering rack enough to get it in is a little bit of a pain, I agree, and unfortunate. But to be honest, once it's in, you shouldn't have to remove it unless you're removing the rack. The two-piece lower steering shaft is newer than any kits I've done. I've only had the one-piece designs. Work fine. I'd put it in and be done with it. After your engine is in of course.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    40
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Edwardb for the quick response. I will take your advice and just go with it.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Martin's Dent and Collision Shop

Visit our community sponsor