! Two stage cooling fan controller for Gen 2 Coyote (will work for any engine) $115
This is mainly for those guys out there that have a Coyote computer controlled radiator fan and don't like the noise it makes or the fact that it's always on. I hear lots of other engines use this very thing, so sorry if this is common knowledge, but I didn't find much help on the subject, especially for the Coyote setup. Though, you can use this on any build.
I have a real problem with the decibel level of my Factory Five supplied radiator fan, actually it comes from Maradyne. It appears to be a very good and capable cooling fan, but controlled by the Gen 2 Coyote computer (apparently not the case for other generations) it ends up running all the time at full fan speed. At 225 watts it amounts to some significant energy wasted too, especially considering this thing runs even at highway speeds - what is the sense in that? Even belt driven fans have clutches. Once it's on it won't shut off even if the engine gets below its on temp. Mine would typically turn on no later than 80 degrees C, and sometimes as low as 75. It's silly because the thermostat hasn't even opened at those temps.
This is an unfortunate design and reportedly it is this way because Ford was concerned that they didn't know what conditions these crate engines would be operating under, so they decided to err on the side of caution, as in, turn the fan on when the engine is on, run it at full speed and make it stay on. It is an inferred temperature that the computer determines based on sensors in the engine, but that fan has only an indirect relationship to the engine temp. What the fan affects directly is the radiator and keeping the radiator cool obviously keeps the engine cool. So I said, why not control the fan based on radiator temperature? Or better yet the coolant temp just before it re-enters the engine.
What I did to address this was to install a coolant sensor in the lower radiator return hose and fed that information to a Pulse Width Modulated fan controller. BTW, Maradyne makes the only one I could find that operates at half-speed and kicks into high when needed.
The controller mounted nicely to the right side inner wheel panel (elephant ear) and the sensor wires were routed along the back of the fan.
The fan will run for an additional minute after the ignition is shut off at low fan speed, but only if it is connected directly to the battery. Remember, the controller controls the ground, not the power wire. So, you can either run the existing Coyote ECU fan wire to the positive fan terminal or a dedicated power wire of your own coming from a hot source (battery). In the latter case you'll need to dead end the Coyote wire.
In the video you'll see LEDs on the controller. At first the red LED is the only one lit and that means that ignition power has been turned on. After a few seconds the green LED lights up and you can hear the fan blowing at half speed. The center LED is yellow and it will light up when the fan is running at full speed, but that didn't happen in the video.
The fan runs significantly less than it used to and at low fan speed when it does. I set the on temp at 90ish degrees C, which means the fan doesn't come on at all at low driving speeds when in 50 to 60 degree F weather. It will come on when idling for extended periods, but it is quiet and very acceptable to me now. I love hearing the the pipes at idle rather than an industrial sounding fan.
Wiring details:
- Coyote ECU, ORANGE wire to fan positive terminal. (This doesn’t allow for 1 minute runtime after engine shutdown.)
- Controller LARGE gauge WHITE wire to fan negative terminal.
- Controller LARGE gauge BLACK wire to chassis or negative terminal on battery. (I used the existing wiring harness ground wire that the fan had been using.)
- Controller SMALL gauge BLACK wire to ground. (I used the panel the controller is mounted on, as this is a small electrical load.)
- Controller GREY wire to switched 12v power (I used the radio power wire, but I could have connected to the ECU wire.)
- Controller ORANGE wire to battery power. (I used the radio memory wire, as I don’t have a radio, but I could have omitted this connection.)
- Controller BLUE wire to temperature sensor.
- Temperature sensor housing screw to ground. It is a screw on the port housing that the ground wire will connect to. (I used the fan shroud near the sensor as this is a very small electrical load.)
The reason for the small orange wire going to my radio memory wire is so the controller could be used in the normal way (one minute run time) if I so desired in the future. The reason my fan doesn’t run the extra minute is because the coyote ECU fan power wire shuts down with the engine. If I switched to battery power instead of the ECU it would run for the extra minute. If you are not interested in doing it this way all you really need is power to the controller and the fan and they can come from the same place as long as it’s switched. In this configuration I would suggest using heavier gauge wire to the fan for power and grounding.
I hope this helps someone else.
Last edited by GTBradley; 12-23-2020 at 10:21 AM.
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
This seems like a good idea to quiet the fan down a bit. Thanks
Sure thing. It works really well at quieting this down, but it makes things more efficient and will make the fan last longer too. I should say, it’s not just for the Coyote, it’ll work for any car using an electric cooling fan.
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
I believe the FF part is the Maradyne M166K ~160W and 1800CFM @ 12.3A
for those who have A/C with extra condenser, is this fan strong enough to adequately pull enough air? or maybe switch to the M162K for 225W and 2170CFM @ 18A?
I was looking for a vendor for the PWM fan controller from Maradyne. When I checked Summit, they had a alternate Summit branded model that appears to be the same unit, but cheaper.
I believe the FF part is the Maradyne M166K ~160W and 1800CFM @ 12.3A
for those who have A/C with extra condenser, is this fan strong enough to adequately pull enough air? or maybe switch to the M162K for 225W and 2170CFM @ 18A?
I ordered my Coupe-R last summer with the A/C option. I don’t know if checking the box for air conditioning made them change my fan, but my documentation shows my kit shipped with the 2170 CFM fan.
I ordered my Coupe-R last summer with the A/C option. I don’t know if checking the box for air conditioning made them change my fan, but my documentation shows my kit shipped with the 2170 CFM fan.
good to know! who can confirm if it's the 160W or 225W fan? or is there a difference when ordering A/C ?
Sure thing. I can't weigh in on how well this fan cools as I haven't really driven in anything but cool weather. I can say that on high the fan is very loud, so much so that a neighbor told me he could hear it over the engine when driving by his house. The low mode is so much more pleasant to hear when the engine first tops 92 degrees C. I would hope that the AC unit would utilize the low mode automatically when it turns on. And unless I do something crazy, like move from Denver back to KC, I won't be installing AC
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
Just want to resurrect this thread and say thanks to GTBradley for the idea and original post. I know I was one of the guys that said the fan running basically full time on the Gen 2 Coyote was no big deal. But had a little time available and decided this was a pretty clean way to change how it worked. Agree it is kind of a waste for the fan to be running all the time. Especially in cooler weather and running down the highway, as I've observed it doing multiple times. So ordered a Maradyne MFA136 controller from Summit and a Mishimoto MMWHS-38-BK 38mm adapter from Amazon. Spent more time than I probably should have digging around in the existing wiring to make it like it was installed during the build. One small glitch though. The instructions are marginal at best (that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it...) and show two grounds. One large ground wire that it shows going to the battery. I bolted it to a cleaned spot on the chassis. Then a small ground wire that I assumed was for the sensor and wired it that way to a ground screw on the adapter. But with the adapter in the rubber lower radiator hose, there's no ground path and without that second smaller wire to ground, the controller didn't work. Turns out the large ground wire isn't the only one it needs. Figured it out by testing and confirmed via PM's with GTBradley. It's working now and does exactly what I expected it to. When the Coyote calls for the fan, nothing happens because the controller keeps the cooling fan ground open. When the sensor gets to the prescribed set point, the ground closes and the fan starts a low speed. When the temp drops, the fan actually shuts back off again. What a concept. I'll keep an eye on it once driving season starts, and tweak the set point further if needed. But happy with how it turned out. So thanks again.
Brief PS: Although my Gen 3 Coyote in the just completed Coupe isn't on the road yet, I've run it enough to observe different engineers at Ford must have programmed this engine. It doesn't turn on the cooling fan nearly so early, and does switch it back off when the coolant temp drops. All about where it seems it should. I'll know more when I have some real experience. But it doesn't look like a mod of this sort should be necessary for the Gen 3 Coyote.
Last edited by edwardb; 03-09-2020 at 09:30 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Glad it worked Paul. It’s actually one of the more satisfying mods I’ve done.
I just realized that I forgot to say that I routed the 14 gauge black wire to the chassis too. Actually, I believe I connected it to the ground wire in the wire harness that the fan had been using.
Bradley
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
edwardb
Thanks for your the note on this subject. I have my Gen 3 about ready to start up in the next month or so and will let you know. I plan to have the Coyote PCM control the radiator fan. From what I can tell the Gen 3 PCM senses engine cylinder head temperature for radiator fan control from the CHT probe in the block located on the rear passenger side of the block. If AC is installed per the manual the fan runs anytime the AC system is turned on.
edwardb
Thanks for your the note on this subject. I have my Gen 3 about ready to start up in the next month or so and will let you know. I plan to have the Coyote PCM control the radiator fan. From what I can tell the Gen 3 PCM senses engine cylinder head temperature for radiator fan control from the CHT probe in the block located on the rear passenger side of the block. If AC is installed per the manual the fan runs anytime the AC system is turned on.
All Coyote versions infer the water/engine temp based on CHT. Gen 3 isn't new in that regard. It's obvious though that the guys at Ford reconsidered how much to have the fan run on the Gen 3 compared to the Gen 2. 400 miles on my Gen 3 powered Coupe and can confirm the cooling fan switches on and off right where you'd expect it to. No constant running like the Gen 2.
Regarding the A/C, with the Factory Five Gen 3 Coupe A/C setup, the cooling fan is switched on/off by the trinary switch. But it's not switched on all the time. Just (apparently...) when at certain pressures it will cycle the compressor and the cooling fan. About half the miles in my Coupe have been with the A/C on, and can confirm that's how it's working. Have found it does an decent job keeping the cockpit comfortable. Glad we went for it.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
highly recommend this mod. I'm extremely happy with the outcome. I only.. and just barely... hear the fan at a stoplight. It only runs at low speed when it does and engine never goes above 90C.
Last edited by nuhale; 09-02-2020 at 09:58 PM.
MKIV #7275 Acquired June 2019 (2010 partial build), Gen 2 Coyote by Forte w/TK600- PRO 5.0 - McLeod RST twin Clutch-QT Bell, old style IRS, 8.8 3.55 Rear, Gas'n Headers/Pipes, Power Steering, Hydroboost by Forte, Breeze Roll Bar, Heated Seats, 17" halibrand w/ Nitto G2, Maradyne Fan Controller, Paul Proe Vent Kit, Russ Thompson Signal w/ FTP- Received June 2019/First Start April 2020/Go Cart May 2020/Legal September 2020/PAINT BY SPOTLIGHT CUSTOMS JAN 2021
Can engine tuners raise the setpoints for the fan control in the ford ECM? Just curious. My father and I just started go carting our MkIV coyote a few months ago and this is a fantastic solution to the obnoxious fan noise. We will be ordering the parts soon!
MK IV Roadster-Delivered Nov '18
Complete Kit, Gen2 Coyote, TKO 600, 2015 IRS, FFR brakes, FFR power steering, Full length headers
Can engine tuners raise the setpoints for the fan control in the ford ECM? Just curious. My father and I just started go carting our MkIV coyote a few months ago and this is a fantastic solution to the obnoxious fan noise. We will be ordering the parts soon!
While I don't have personal experience, it's been reported on various forum posts that (1) some tuners aren't interested or excited about altering settings related to this, (2) at least two reports that I recall of tuners who did tried to make changes but it didn't affect how the fan works. Not scientific conclusions -- but enough anecdotal evidence that I installed the controller (post #14) and it works.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
While I don't have personal experience, it's been reported on various forum posts that (1) some tuners aren't interested or excited about altering settings related to this, (2) at least two reports that I recall of tuners who did tried to make changes but it didn't affect how the fan works. Not scientific conclusions -- but enough anecdotal evidence that I installed the controller (post #14) and it works.
This brings up a good point with tuning, Paul. I asked my tuner to, first lower the start up RPMs and second to lower the idle. They got the start up rpm and length of time at high idle down, but my warm idle is still 850-900 rpm. So maybe there are changes that cant be made? What RPM is your Coyote idling at?
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
This brings up a good point with tuning, Paul. I asked my tuner to, first lower the start up RPMs and second to lower the idle. They got the start up rpm and length of time at high idle down, but my warm idle is still 850-900 rpm. So maybe there are changes that cant be made? What RPM is your Coyote idling at?
My warm idle on both the Gen 2 and Gen 3 is a little lower than that. In the 750 range. At start-up in the 1,100 range. But then pretty quickly settles down. But they were that way before the custom tune, and unchanged after.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I purchased the fan controller and hardware. Now I'm looking for a 12v source that will provide power to the grey wire on the Maradyne control module when the ignition is on. Currently, I'm using the Ford PDB to power and control the fan. This means the Ron francis wires are not used. I checked voltage with ignition on and the Dark Green Fan Thermo Switch is powered. The Dark Blue Cooling Fan wire is not.
Can I hook up the RF wire to the grey fan controller module for 12v switch circuit? I'm trying to find a 12v switched source on the front harness to avoid tearing up the wiring behind the dash. The dark green fan thermo switch does go to a relay in the RF fuse box. Not sure if this could cause issues?
Last edited by Brian76; 09-07-2020 at 07:36 PM.
MK IV Roadster-Delivered Nov '18
Complete Kit, Gen2 Coyote, TKO 600, 2015 IRS, FFR brakes, FFR power steering, Full length headers
Not sure this helps but I ended up using the fan and choke wiring for my setup as these were redundant circuits on on my build (fan is constant 12v and choke was ignition. You don't need the constant but I waned to use the feature where the fan will run for a min after you shut the car off. I did mine with the body off before final assembly and mounted the controller at the top of the outside DS footbox. For the fan you will have to bypass the relay and it's a 12v constant feed from the RF fuse box. Don't recall the wire color.
Also don't forget to ground the aluminum coupler installed in the lower radiator hose. I just ran a short ground into my radiator shroud. I made the mistake thinking it didn't need it as the system was grounded at the controller and spent much unneeded time trying to figure out why my controller didn't' work. Homer moment.
Last edited by nuhale; 09-07-2020 at 07:53 PM.
MKIV #7275 Acquired June 2019 (2010 partial build), Gen 2 Coyote by Forte w/TK600- PRO 5.0 - McLeod RST twin Clutch-QT Bell, old style IRS, 8.8 3.55 Rear, Gas'n Headers/Pipes, Power Steering, Hydroboost by Forte, Breeze Roll Bar, Heated Seats, 17" halibrand w/ Nitto G2, Maradyne Fan Controller, Paul Proe Vent Kit, Russ Thompson Signal w/ FTP- Received June 2019/First Start April 2020/Go Cart May 2020/Legal September 2020/PAINT BY SPOTLIGHT CUSTOMS JAN 2021
Since I hadn't installed my radiator nor Boig Cool Tubes until just this past week in my Gen 3 Coupe, months ago I decided to go ahead and buy this Maradyne MFA 136 Controller ahead of time. I was liking what I read. I also had planned on some light aluminum welding on some custom mods to the Moroso degas tank around this time and threw in a mod for the MFA 136 Controller install.
I bought an aluminum Weld-In Bung 1/8 NPT, Summit Racing SUM-220070, and a few weeks ago had it welded into the Lower Radiator Boig Quiet Pipe. I thought that this would be a cleaner and more robust install than cutting the Boig Quiet Pipe and installing the UPGR8 sensor mount coupling and necessary hose clamps.
This is what I have. Note that the parts in the photo are just loosely installed, including the visible Gates Hose Clamp.
Not sure this helps but I ended up using the fan and choke wiring for my setup as these were redundant circuits on on my build (fan is constant 12v and choke was ignition. You don't need the constant but I waned to use the feature where the fan will run for a min after you shut the car off. I did mine with the body off before final assembly and mounted the controller at the top of the outside DS footbox. For the fan you will have to bypass the relay and it's a 12v constant feed from the RF fuse box. Don't recall the wire color.
Also don't forget to ground the aluminum coupler installed in the lower radiator hose. I just ran a short ground into my radiator shroud. I made the mistake thinking it didn't need it as the system was grounded at the controller and spent much unneeded time trying to figure out why my controller didn't' work. Homer moment.
I've already trimmed back my sending unit wires like electric choke and fan thermo switch. :-( Trying to avoid re-wiring all that. How do I go about bypassing the fan relay in the RF fuse box?
MK IV Roadster-Delivered Nov '18
Complete Kit, Gen2 Coyote, TKO 600, 2015 IRS, FFR brakes, FFR power steering, Full length headers
Since I hadn't installed my radiator nor Boig Cool Tubes until just this past week in my Gen 3 Coupe, months ago I decided to go ahead and buy this Maradyne MFA 136 Controller ahead of time. I was liking what I read. I also had planned on some light aluminum welding on some custom mods to the Moroso degas tank around this time and threw in a mod for the MFA 136 Controller install.
I bought an aluminum Weld-In Bung 1/8 NPT, Summit Racing SUM-220070, and a few weeks ago had it welded into the Lower Radiator Boig Quiet Pipe. I thought that this would be a cleaner and more robust install than cutting the Boig Quiet Pipe and installing the UPGR8 sensor mount coupling and necessary hose clamps.
This is what I have. Note that the parts in the photo are just loosely installed, including the visible Gates Hose Clamp.
Bob
How are you providing a ground?
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
The relay jumps a constant from an intended dash switch. Find the relay directly in front of the fuse. Its detailed in the RF schematics. Locate the 12V constant going into relay, clip and join to line going into fuse. The wire that then goes thru the front of the car will then be 12V constant and is protected by the fuse.
MKIV #7275 Acquired June 2019 (2010 partial build), Gen 2 Coyote by Forte w/TK600- PRO 5.0 - McLeod RST twin Clutch-QT Bell, old style IRS, 8.8 3.55 Rear, Gas'n Headers/Pipes, Power Steering, Hydroboost by Forte, Breeze Roll Bar, Heated Seats, 17" halibrand w/ Nitto G2, Maradyne Fan Controller, Paul Proe Vent Kit, Russ Thompson Signal w/ FTP- Received June 2019/First Start April 2020/Go Cart May 2020/Legal September 2020/PAINT BY SPOTLIGHT CUSTOMS JAN 2021
...I checked voltage with ignition on and the Dark Green Fan Thermo Switch is powered. The Dark Blue Cooling Fan wire is not...
Are you sure you don't have these backwards? Take a look at the picture of the back of your fuse panel in your Ron Francis manual (on page 36 of the Rev T version). You can see the relay at the lower left side of the picture. At 12 o'clock, you can see the two dark green fan thermo switch wires; those are the ground side of the relay (pin 85). At 9 o'clock, you can see main power coming into the relay (pin 87) and a jumper to the relay trigger (pin 86 at 6 o'clock). Between the red & dark green wires you can barely see the dark blue cooling wire coming off pin 30 that goes to the fan fuse.
If you made your measurements on a cold engine, the ground side of the trigger is "floating", plus the relay is open. Depending on what ground you use for your meter, you can be misled by the measured voltages.
John
Last edited by phileas_fogg; 09-09-2020 at 06:27 PM.
Reason: Added pdf of fan relay page; update page reference in post
GT Bradley,
Good question on your part pointing out the missing Ground in my installation (photo). Actually it wasn't until very recently that I discovered or realized that Ground need, though it was right there in your Nov-22-2019 instruction post, the last list item. And then in the close up image of the UPGR8 housing that you posted Nov-22nd wire, the grounding screw. In that installation image, the ground wire is on the far side and barely visible.
Getting back to my installation, I don't want to tap into the Boig Quiet Pipe for a grounding screw, so, I'm thinking about a simple stainless steel hose clamp around the aluminum Boig Quiet Pipe, secured down low and out of sight. I'd rough up the aluminum tube under the hose clamp to improve continuity. Then I'd have ground wire attached to that mechanically and hat wire would be routed to and attached via screw into the chassis near that hose clamp. With the low voltage requirements, I think this should do.
Bob
Are you sure you don't have these backwards? Take a look at the picture of the back of your fuse panel in your Ron Francis manual (on page 13 of the Rev T version). You can see the relay at the lower left side of the picture. At 12 o'clock, you can see the two dark green fan thermo switch wires; those are the ground side of the relay (pin 85). At 9 o'clock, you can see main power coming into the relay (pin 87) and a jumper to the relay trigger (pin 86 at 6 o'clock). Between the red & dark green wires you can barely see the dark blue cooling wire coming off pin 30 that goes to the fan fuse.
If you made your measurements on a cold engine, the ground side of the trigger is "floating", plus the relay is open. Depending on what ground you use for your meter, you can be misled by the measured voltages.
John
My RF manual Rev T, june '17 pg 13 has a picture of the fuse panel front. From your description it seems that you might be referring to this picture on pg 22. Regardless, I didn't quite follow your instructions. I'm electrically challenged so please be patient. :-)
Based on the picture attached which wires need to be cut and soldered together to bypass the relay?
I added an excerpt from Rev T to my post below; hopefully that will help get you oriented. However, I don't know anything about the fan controller or the Coyote.
In your picture, wire 2 and 3 are the ground side of the relay trigger, wire 4 is the power output of the relay that goes to the fan fuse (the other side of that fuse powers your fan), the big red wire to the left of wire 4 is battery power, and the small short red wire connects battery power to the power side of the relay trigger.
Wire 1 provides power to your horn fuse (the other side of that fuse powers your horn).
I added an excerpt from Rev T to my post below; hopefully that will help get you oriented. However, I don't know anything about the fan controller or the Coyote.
In your picture, wire 2 and 3 are the ground side of the relay trigger, wire 4 is the power output of the relay that goes to the fan fuse (the other side of that fuse powers your fan), the big red wire to the left of wire 4 is battery power, and the small short red wire connects battery power to the power side of the relay trigger.
Wire 1 provides power to your horn fuse (the other side of that fuse powers your horn).
John
Thanks for the explanation John. So if I wanted to bypass the relay, I would cut the small short red wire (power into the relay) and connect it to the #4 blue wire (power out from relay)? The fuse would still be part of the circuit.
MK IV Roadster-Delivered Nov '18
Complete Kit, Gen2 Coyote, TKO 600, 2015 IRS, FFR brakes, FFR power steering, Full length headers
Based on post #27, I think you're looking for a Ron Francis circuit you can repurpose to provide power to the grey wire of your fan controller?
If I'm right, then based on GTBradley's original post, I recommend you NOT use the RF fan circuit. Reason being, this circuit is powered at all times - even at key off - just like your headlights & horn.
Based on post #27, I think you're looking for a Ron Francis circuit you can repurpose to provide power to the grey wire of your fan controller?
If I'm right, then based on GTBradley's original post, I recommend you NOT use the RF fan circuit. Reason being, this circuit is powered at all times - even at key off - just like your headlights & horn.
John
Correct, leaving the grey wire on the controller powered after key off would allow the fan controller to be powered all the time.
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
Based on post #27, I think you're looking for a Ron Francis circuit you can repurpose to provide power to the grey wire of your fan controller?
If I'm right, then based on GTBradley's original post, I recommend you NOT use the RF fan circuit. Reason being, this circuit is powered at all times - even at key off - just like your headlights & horn.
John
Good Point John. If the power coming out of the relay is HAAT I definitely don't want that. Yes, I'm looking for a 12v source tied to ignition to power the grey controller wire. I was hoping to splice into a wire from the front harness because I'm lazy and don't want to tear up my dash harness and try to stuff more wires in the conduit! I'll try to locate the electric choke wire.
Last edited by Brian76; 09-10-2020 at 07:52 PM.
MK IV Roadster-Delivered Nov '18
Complete Kit, Gen2 Coyote, TKO 600, 2015 IRS, FFR brakes, FFR power steering, Full length headers
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Originally Posted by Bob Brandle
