! Two stage cooling fan controller for Gen 2 Coyote (will work for any engine) $115

[phileas_fogg]

I think that's your best bet.


John

[nuhale]

It's really not that tough IMO. The only benefit of a 12v constant (HAAT) + 12v ignition is that the unit will run for 1 min after ignition is off to further cool the radiator. It really doesn't do anything of value but I liked the feature so went with it... I'll see if I can snap a picture of how I did mine and post later.

[Brian76]

What happens if the controller or temp sensor fails in the future? I assume the unit will prohibit the fan from turning on?

[GTBradley]

Yes, this would stop any electric fan controlled by a sensor. Some have installed a bypass on-switch for this reason.

[Brian76]

Yes, this would stop any electric fan controlled by a sensor. Some have installed a bypass on-switch for this reason.

I will want to have access to the wiring so I can switch back to the original Coyote computer to fan wiring (orange wire) just in case

[Brian76]

This is my proposed wiring diagram (see attached). Again, I'm no expert so I'd like feedback if this is the right direction. Basically, I want to combine the Ford ECU orange 12v wire and the Maradyne orange 12v (battery) wire together and place it in a connector. Those two wires would connect to the 12v wire to the fan. I would combine the two grounds the same way.

maradyne.PNG

[GTBradley]

This is my proposed wiring diagram (see attached). Again, I'm no expert so I'd like feedback if this is the right direction. Basically, I want to combine the Ford ECU orange 12v wire and the Maradyne orange 12v (battery) wire together and place it in a connector. Those two wires would connect to the 12v wire to the fan. I would combine the two grounds the same way.

maradyne.PNG

Combining the power wires is okay, but don’t ground the fan directly (the black wire in your diagram). The white wire from the controller is where the fan will get it’s path to ground. In fact, that’s how the controller turns the fan off and on, by breaking the ground connection. The way you have it the fan won’t shut off.

Two stage cooling fan controller for Gen 2 Coyote (will work for any engine) - Page 2.png

[Brian76]

Combining the power wires is okay, but don’t ground the fan directly (the black wire in your diagram). The white wire from the controller is where the fan will get it’s path to ground. In fact, that’s how the controller turns the fan off and on, by breaking the ground connection. The way you have it the fan won’t shut off.

Two stage cooling fan controller for Gen 2 Coyote (will work for any engine) - Page 2.png

Thanks for the feedback. I think I understand how the controller works now (I'm a little slow around the track sometimes). The black ground was my original fan wiring. I need to remove that "constant" ground so that the maradyne can interrupt the signals.

Do my other grounds look ok? I was going to find a common location

[GTBradley]

Thanks for the feedback. I think I understand how the controller works now (I'm a little slow around the track sometimes). The black ground was my original fan wiring. I need to remove that "constant" ground so that the maradyne can interrupt the signals.

Do my other grounds look ok? I was going to find a common location

Not to worry, electrical can be intimidating, but is typically simpler than people think.

Yes, technically all grounds on the car are sharing a common electrical point no matter where they are. You can prove this by using the continuity setting on your multimeter. Try connecting one lead to a metal source anywhere on the car and the other lead to a different metal source. It will likely show a connection between the two and electrically speaking your car battery's negative terminal is also connected to that same electrical point. The difference is with the potential load, if you have a bigger electrical load you will need a better contact to metal (and therefore a better path to the negative terminal of the battery). So, where I connected my controller to the relatively lightweight metal splash guard this would not be appropriate for the fan itself as it has a higher potential load. I separated these two simply for convenience of location and to keep wire lengths short, but I could have connected the controller to the fan grounding location or combined it with any other existing ground location that could handle the electrical load.

[Ducky2009]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=130357&d=1592843940[/IMG]

I'm thinking I want to add this to mine.
Question: If the adapter is in the bottom rad hose, wouldn't the water already be cooling off, after running through the rad? Was thinking it needs to be installed in the top hose where the highest water temp is.

[GTBradley]

That would give the fan a head start I suppose, but would also make it run more than it needs. The thing is, the radiator alone is good at keeping the temperature down. And the radiator and fan are very effective at bringing the temp down. I know this because my fan will come on for just 30 seconds or so and cycle off indicating that the temp at the sensor dropped quickly. Sensing temperature at the inlet won’t give the radiator a chance to do it’s job naturally. The objective here was to make the fan run as little as possible while controlling the engine temperature effectively.

[GTBradley]

Bobm488 gave me a nice wiring diagram for the controller that I was going to upload, but it also gave me the inspiration to go find my own tool for making electrical diagrams. I found the simple and free app called Draft Paper for the iPad. It's pretty handy and easy to use.

[lewma]

All, I may be missing something here but why would you need the fan to run after the engine has shutdown ? All the fan is doing at that point is cooling whatever is in the radiator, not the engine ?

Am i missing something ?

mark

[rich grsc]

It will help cool the engine. It will thermo syphon the hot coolant.

[GTBradley]

What I read was that cooling the radiator helped prevent overflow in the reservoir tank. I thought the benefit would be negligible and decided I didn’t want my engine sounding like a modern car, hence the wiring diagram to avoid the extra run time.

[GWL]

There are other alternatives out there for lowering the speed of the radiator fan when it is not needed. What is good about this unit is that it controls the fan speed from 0 to 100%.

Auto Cool Guy
Home Site:
https://www.autocoolguy.com/

• Measures the heat of the water as it comes from the bottom of the radiator going back to the engine.
• Most important it regulates the fan from 0% to 100% speed as needed.
• Soft low amp start, eliminating need for an extra high amp fuse
• Set point to come on is adjustable
• A/C can trip on the fan as well as a dash override switch
• Made in the USA

I have this controller running a high amp Lincoln MkVIII fan that is a two speed fan. It is wired to the high speed fan wire and it will control the fan speed from 0 to 100% speed as needed.

George

[toadster]

Brief PS: Although my Gen 3 Coyote in the just completed Coupe isn't on the road yet, I've run it enough to observe different engineers at Ford must have programmed this engine. It doesn't turn on the cooling fan nearly so early, and does switch it back off when the coolant temp drops. All about where it seems it should. I'll know more when I have some real experience. But it doesn't look like a mod of this sort should be necessary for the Gen 3 Coyote.

now that the coupe is driving, have you noticed that the fan works as expected?

[Ed Mc]

I have added the controller and it works great, except for one minor issue. About one out of ten times when I turn the engine off the engine does not shut off and I have to pull the fuse from the controller to shut the engine off, which is somewhat embarrassing if it happens anywhere but home. I have the controller wired to shut off when the car shuts off using the electronic choke wire for the orange and grey wires.

I called Maradyne and stumped the band. He felt I is wired correctly but has never heard of this happening. Has this happened to anyone else?

[Railroad]

Sounds like the fan spin time after shutdown is energizing the engine computer, which is not seeing the power shut off. I think a properly placed diode will fix it.

[Ed Mc]

Thanks railroad. Not being experience in wiring where would you suggest I place the diode?

[GTBradley]

I have added the controller and it works great, except for one minor issue. About one out of ten times when I turn the engine off the engine does not shut off and I have to pull the fuse from the controller to shut the engine off, which is somewhat embarrassing if it happens anywhere but home. I have the controller wired to shut off when the car shuts off using the electronic choke wire for the orange and grey wires.

I called Maradyne and stumped the band. He felt I is wired correctly but has never heard of this happening. Has this happened to anyone else?

Try disconnecting the small gauge orange wire completely. It’s only used when you want the fan to run for a minute after shut down, otherwise it isn’t needed.

[Ed Mc]

Eliminating the small orange wire seems to have done the trick, thanks for the help

[JohnK]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but this seems like a great repository of information for this mod so I'd rather post my question here than start a new thread.

I'm getting ready to do my fan wiring, including the Maradyne controller, on a Gen2 coyote. My question is about the orange and grey wires on the Maradyne controller. I plan to power the fan with the large orange wire from the coyote harness. Can I also tie in the Maradyne grey wire (+12V keyed power) to the coyote orange wire, so when the coyote PCM provides the +12V to the fan it also energizes the Maradyne controller? If I understand correctly, the Maradyne orange wire is only needed if I want the fan to run for the extra minute, so I would leave the Maradyne orange wire disconnected? Any issue with wiring it this way?

Thanks,
John

[JohnK]

Bump - anyone have any thoughts on whether my proposed wiring is a good or bad idea? Thanks!

-John

[GTBradley]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but this seems like a great repository of information for this mod so I'd rather post my question here than start a new thread.

I'm getting ready to do my fan wiring, including the Maradyne controller, on a Gen2 coyote. My question is about the orange and grey wires on the Maradyne controller. I plan to power the fan with the large orange wire from the coyote harness. Can I also tie in the Maradyne grey wire (+12V keyed power) to the coyote orange wire, so when the coyote PCM provides the +12V to the fan it also energizes the Maradyne controller? If I understand correctly, the Maradyne orange wire is only needed if I want the fan to run for the extra minute, so I would leave the Maradyne orange wire disconnected? Any issue with wiring it this way?

Thanks,
John

Sorry, John, I was out having fun all weekend driving the roadster here and there.

The reason I did not use the the orange ECU wire for power to the fan controller is that it doesn’t power up until three or so minutes after start and I wanted the controller to have power from start up.

You are correct, the orange wire from the controller only needs a full-time 12v supply if it is going to be running the fan after shut down and in that case you would need a full-time 12v supply for the fan too. The only reason I tied it into the keyed power was to terminate the wire cleanly, but it doesn’t affect the operation. Same with the fan power, I could have used battery for it, but I wanted to terminate the orange ECU wire cleanly and seeing as how it’s on all the time after three minutes anyway…

[JohnK]

Thanks! No worries at all - I was out sailing all day Saturday.

If I could pick your brain for another moment - you said you wanted the Maradyne controller to have power from start up. In re-reading your first post, it sounds like you approached the wiring with an eye toward the possibility of re-wiring later to allow the fan to run for an extra minute. Is this why you wanted the controller to have power at start-up? If I'm OK with "locking myself in" to the option of having the coyote ECU power the fan, then it seems to me that as long as the Maradyne controller has power any time the fan has power (i.e., fan and Maradyne grey wires get power from coyote orange wire), then the system should work as intended. Just wanting to make sure I'm not missing some obvious problem with this scheme, such as the Maradyne controller needing some time after power up to be able to initiate and do it's thing? It's not the end of the world for me to run another dedicated 12V wire back to the dash, as I haven't yet wrapped my front harness, but no reason to add wires if they're not needed.

[GTBradley]

I think it will work fine. Give it a try and see what it does, no big effort to change it, though it does sound easier to go with one power wire already available. Post your results, if you don’t mind.

[lee82]

This brings up a good point with tuning, Paul. I asked my tuner to, first lower the start up RPMs and second to lower the idle. They got the start up rpm and length of time at high idle down, but my warm idle is still 850-900 rpm. So maybe there are changes that cant be made? What RPM is your Coyote idling at?

There are a bunch of tables in the pcm that control idle depending on IAT, ECT, Drive / Neutral, etc. Your tuner needs to adjust all of them.

Also, the pcm has a table for fan speed control based on ECT. It’s as easy to change by rescaling the temperature axis to the temperatures you want and setting fan speeds from 0-100%, and anything in between. Of course, you need $400 worth of HP Tuners hardware and credits to edit the pcm yourself… $115 for a controller is definitely cheaper if that’s all you want to do.

Mine idles @ 700 and I don’t go full blast with the cooling fan until 205 degrees. I have 50% fan @ 180. It took 5 minutes to change.

[GTBradley]

Good to hear 700 is good idle speed. I’m sure many gen 2 owners would love a writeup of your process for doing this at home. The expense would definitely keep me going to a tuner with a dyno, though.

[JohnK]

Getting ready for the first start tomorrow. For first start, I'm thinking of turning the potentiometer on the Maradyne fully clockwise so that it will essentially turn on whenever the coyote calls for the fan. Once I've gotten past all the excitement of the first start then I'll dial in the best start temp. I have the sensor for the maradyne mounted in the radiator itself, right at the outlet (like this).



As far as setting the start temperature goes, what is a good target temperature to shoot for? Do you go by what the Speedhut gauge is showing? I have an infrared laser thermometer, but I'm not sure it will register an accurate reading off the shiny aluminum on the side tank of the radiator. Perhaps trying to take a reading on the fins on the front of the radiator, which are a bit more of a matte finish?

[GTBradley]

Nice idea to mount the sensor there. I did use the temp gauge and 93C is a pretty common on-temp set point. I think once the system is heated up you can get a reading on the fins or even the the black rubber hoses too.

[JohnK]

Thanks again. I got the system set up to turn the fan on at ~93C. I'm pretty impressed with how granular it is (at least sitting idling in the garage). The temp gauge will hit 93C and the fan will kick on at half speed for maybe 15 seconds and then off again, and the gauge will drop a couple of degrees. pretty impressive. I also wanted to report back the the way I wired it seems to be working fine, with the coyote fan power feed supplying power to both the fan and the controller grey wire. When the coyote PCM calls for the fan to turn on, you can see the lights turn on on the controller (but the fan doesn't turn on). Then the controller does its thing from there.

[GTBradley]

That's good to hear, thanks for reporting back.

I suppose it could be argued that you double the complexity by using the coyote fan wire, but if it did ever fail to send a turn on signal you would know this immediately by the lack of lights on the controller. In that case and in a pinch, power could be jumped directly from the battery.

[JohnK]

I picked up a few extra 40A maxi fuses to have on hand just in case, but on further consideration I'm wondering if there's any reason to not run a 40A self-resetting circuit breaker instead of the fuse? Something like this:

https://www.delcity.net/store/MAXI®-...p_152.h_187702

[GTBradley]

I picked up a few extra 40A maxi fuses to have on hand just in case, but on further consideration I'm wondering if there's any reason to not run a 40A self-resetting circuit breaker instead of the fuse? Something like this:

https://www.delcity.net/store/MAXI®-...p_152.h_187702

Ah! Excellent point, I hadn't even considered what I would do if the fuse in the controller opened. I'll pick one up too. As far as the auto-reseting type, I've never really been a fan because they mask a problem you need to deal with. Likely any short serious enough to trip it will not allow it to reset successfully anyway.

[JohnK]

You're right in that it won't reset if the problem that caused it to open isn't addressed. The main benefit, IMO, is that once you've identified and corrected the problem you're back up and running without having to carry around spare fuses. But self-resetting CB's are far more complicated than fuses, so are in inherently more prone to failure themselves. Six of one, half dozen of another I guess...

[GTBradley]

I was looking for a vendor for the PWM fan controller from Maradyne. When I checked Summit, they had a alternate Summit branded model that appears to be the same unit, but cheaper.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890125/overview/

I am running a Coyote in a restomod Mustang. My C&R radiator has dual Spal fans, so I believe that I will want a solution like this too.

Thanks for this Alan. I had mine fail recently, sort of, I was able to turn the adjusting screw all the way and get it to turn the fan on full-speed full-time, so I could keep going. There is no in-between setting anymore however, so I'm going to replace it with the same unit and see how long this one lasts - mine made it about three years and 14,000 miles. I think I'll cover the potentiometer set screw opening with tape this time, just in case water intrusion was the culprit. BTW, It doesn't appear repairable by replacing the pot since the unit is sealed with resin.

Anyone else have their's fail?

[Ed Mc]

I had mine fail as well, purchased the controller from Summit and enclosed it in a water proof box. No issues in over a year, including the Friday all day rain in London this past Cobra show

[Lidodrip]

My Maradyne unit failed very early on. There was a popping sound and then smoke came out of the potentiometer. I ended up replacing it with an AutoCoolGuy NB50 - https://www.autocoolguy.com/new-items. My initial impression is that this is a much better built unit, automatically adjusts with several levels of fan speed (not just 1/2 and full), easier to adjust the fan speed (has an actual dial), and has wiring for a fan override switch. The AutoCoolGuy is wired very similar (ground circuit) to the Maradyne unit.



James