Request handling advice

[Swamplife2]

Again my highest regards to builders. I am a guardian and driver only. Would like to ask for your handling advice. My Mk 1 has always been a latte fetcher but I need a little more. It handles like I am sitting beside a
5.0 Mustang with a 12 inch drive shaft (not that there is anything wrong with that)
It has front coil overs bolted to stock lower A arms, stock rear, no sway bars F or R
Need feel of oversteer on turn in ,then neutral feel with handling then controlled by throttle.
Please suggest tire pressures. Please suggest weight balance, shocks, anti sway bars as you see fit
Have already asked and received and incorporated performance alignment specs in another thread
Many thanks

[Gordon Levy]

Assuming you have the Mustang 4 link rear. The first thing that I could recommend that would go a long way at helping would be a new set of shocks and springs on all 4 corners and ether the FFR 3 link or my 5 link rear suspension setup. That should take care of 80% of everything. This would be first.

[AC Bill]

Tires can make a big difference in the handling. What size and type, does it have on it currently?
I run around about 25 psi with 15" Yohohama Avids.

[Bob Cowan]

Assuming you have the Mustang 4 link rear. The first thing that I could recommend that would go a long way at helping would be a new set of shocks and springs on all 4 corners and ether the FFR 3 link or my 5 link rear suspension setup. That should take care of 80% of everything. This would be first.

This is absolutely correct. Yes, it can get expensive. But if you don't start out with a solid foundation, you'll never get to where you want to be.

Coil overs are a must. Not because the feel or perform that much better than a quality shock, but because you have more adjustability - and that is VERY important. I would take a close look at the Koni's that FFR sells. They are specifically for the Roadster.

Don't be afraid to change springs. I like a stiffer spring. But others do not. If you change the springs, spend the money on a good spring. There is a big difference between a $40 spring and a $100 spring. Spend the money.

Make this change, and this change only. Once you have the new shocks and springs installed, then tune the suspension. Many builders will spend a lot of time tuning the engine to get that last 2hp. But they don't spend the time to tune the chassis to take advantage of the power. Power is nothing without control.

Ride height. I like 4.5" front, and 5.5" rear.
Align front and rear. Take your time. Do it right. Be precise.
Measure for bump steer.
And, finally, corner weights.

Once you get all this done, I guarantee you will have a whole new car. And all for <$2K.

After you've been driving the car for a while, you'll get used to the small nuances, and will want more. Then it's time to think about sway bars, tubular arms, spherical bearings, etc.

[Swamplife2]

Great and I mean great one and all. You all have done me a great service.
One thing I do not understand is corner weights??
Please explain further.
I found fluid filled corner weights in my 1966 Covair Corsa and found heavy steel weights in the corners of my 1994 Mustang. Both convertibles
But took them out to reduce weight
Understood they were to reduce NVH .
Please advise concerning corner weights all other info received and understood.
Note tire sizes listed in Registry in response to a question.
Thanks guys

[AC Bill]

One thing I do not understand is corner weights?? Please explain further.

The term corner weights, are nothing to do with weights such as you found and removed in your other vehicles. It's to do with balancing the weight of the roadster, evenly. a best as possible on all four wheels. It entails using four scales, one under each tire, to get an idea if how much of the cars weight is on each one. Adjusting suspension components, springs/shocks, and ride height, can often shift weight from one wheel to another, to help balance and distribute the weight optimally. This can help with handling and braking.

[Swamplife2]

The term corner weights, are nothing to do with weights such as you found and removed in your other vehicles. It's to do with balancing the weight of the roadster, evenly. a best as possible on all four wheels. It entails using four scales, one under each tire, to get an idea if how much of the cars weight is on each one. Adjusting suspension components, springs/shocks, and ride height, can often shift weight from one wheel to another, to help balance and distribute the weight optimally. This can help with handling and braking.

Oh OK heh heh
Maybe won't be that thorough. Will be happy going into and out of a turn under control.
A good lesson in any case for me
Thank you