Coyote Header bolts/studs

[bobm488]

I will be installing my coyote next Saturday. What is the current wisdom on header bolts? Leave all the studs in, replace studs near foot box with bolts or replace all with bolts.

I’ve read that the driver’s side header could be bolted up as soon as header can be installed below the tubing. Then the engine would be moved rearward into place. Then the passenger side can go in after engine has been bolted into place. Are these assumptions correct?

[edwardb]

The stock Coyote studs will make the headers more difficult to install on the passenger side, and nearly impossible on the driver side. You can selectively remove and replace some with bolts and still get the headers in. I've tried but didn't find it worth the bother. My two Coyote builds have all the studs removed and replaced with bolts.

Yes, you can get the driver side header in while installing the engine. Drop the engine almost all the way in, and before it drops all the way into place, you can get he header in and the bolts are somewhat easier to put in. I've taken it a step further and removed the driver side motor mount when it's at the location, e.g. still held up by the shop crane. Makes it easier to get to the most troublesome bolts. Then put the motor mount back on and drop onto the chassis. The passenger side header is not difficult to install with the Coyote all the way in.

[Railroad]

I used the factory studs on the PS. Very easy to access.
I shortened the studs on the DS and used 2, I think, header bolts.
If you decided to shorten the studs, allow for gasket thickness and a couple of threads through the steel lock on the nuts.
The studs have a hex head, so they are easy to remove.

[bobm488]

Thanks everyone, ordering the bolts today. Looks like the threads are 1.25 instead of 1.5, from what I've been reading it could be either type.k

[Fixit]

This might help...

[bobm488]

This might help...

That helps a lot. Your first stat video is also helpful showing me where hoses and other fun stuff goes.