Thoughts and opinions on the need to add a driveshaft safety loop for a street driver Roadster? Is it a must have or a nice to have for a 10 driveshaft? If you added, any recommendations on what brand / style you used?
Thanks, Jeff
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Thoughts and opinions on the need to add a driveshaft safety loop for a street driver Roadster? Is it a must have or a nice to have for a 10 driveshaft? If you added, any recommendations on what brand / style you used?
Thanks, Jeff
Used a Metco piece. Well made and simple bolt-on. For the price I never would consider driving without one and gives some peace of mind. Likely you will get differing opinions.
Coupe Kit Delivered 11/10/23
Roadster Build thread: 2019-2022 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...4-Build-Thread
X2 Cheap insurance...,
Kurt
If everything seems under control, youre just not going fast enough....
Build thread
MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18
X3
I used the kit shown below as a starting point and it worked out well.
With a little cutting, bending and welding I was able to bolt it to the inner seat belt brackets.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...9004/overview/
I'm also running a bell house blanket since there is No Blow Proof Option for my particular transmission.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...9010?rrec=true
Big Daddy lost half of his right foot nearly 50 years ago before he changed Top Fuel Drag Racing forever.
https://youtu.be/rwXZjH3GTQc
Though not likely to happen to us, my favorite Drag Racing Man with the plan knows a thing or two about drive-line failures.
Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-25-2019 at 09:20 AM.
I've had two driveshafts explode -- can you guess what my recommendation is?
When it comes to safety: If there is ever a doubt -- there is no doubt.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
Another vote for the Metco bolt on hoop.
Think about where that drive shaft is in relation to your body.
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First Start: 12/30/2017
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I’ve got one too..
MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
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I put the metco on as well. Street driver now so maybe a little overkill insurance, but also protecting in case some day I autocross or do something stupid on the street.
There was a similar thread (link below) last year that I'm sure resulted in a massive surge in Metco's summer sales!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Recommendation
MK IV Roadster #7999
Ford Racing 427x; QF 670 Carb; TKO 600; 3.31 Rear End; 3-link; 17 Halibrand Replicas (9 front, 10.5 rear), Khumo Ecstas (245 front, 315 rear), EPAS Power Steering; Power Brakes; 8/1/19 - Legal in gelcoat!; 12/1/20 - Paint & bodywork in progress! Silver, no black, no red, wait now silver....
I have one also. Hopefully for all of us it will be wasted money. But, you have to have it before you need it.
Answering on do you need it for a driveshaft that is only 10 inched long....
A shorter shaft cannot handle as much torque as a longer shaft.
It is right next to your hip.
Probably not a pole vault risk like a long driveshaft.
Last edited by Avalanche325; 11-25-2019 at 10:56 AM.
OK, for those who are reading this and saying to themselves " I'm never going to race my car so a drive shaft loop is overkill". I was a teen when I experienced my first u-joint failure on a street car. A 1965 Mustang Fastback, 289 with 4-speed trans and the car was only a couple years old. The 271HP with a four-speed and at the time seemed like a lot of power in a small package but nothing like most here are building today. Setting at a stop light with no other cars around and the light turns green. I was Bob Glidden leaving the line -- revved the engine and dumped the clutch. Lucky I never made it through second gear before the front u-joint let go. It was instant carnage but could have been worse.
My second drive shaft failure was at >6000 RPM (that's drive shaft RPM not engine RPM) and the damage from that one was very impressive. Shrapnel through the floor, frame rails twisted and damaged. And it happens in a nano-second but takes seemingly forever to get stopped and all the time the drive shaft is still spinning and shredding itself and everything it touches. Oh, and that was also a street only vehicle.
Lucky I've never had a drive shaft explode in a race car -- yet. But then I also take precautions to mitigate the safety hazards now that I'm smarter.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
I'm guessing that FFR doesn't supply them with the kit because it's not common in there cars? Has any one ever had it happen in a Roadster? It would be nice to know how well the driveshaft safety loops are performing, or even what kind of damage was caused by a driveshaft failing without one.
In another thread on this subject, someone posted a picture of a roadster's mangled trans tunnel following a failure. The damage included a large hole punched through the aluminum panel right at the rear corner of the passenger side of the cockpit, severed wire harness, severed battery cable, and severed e-bake cables.
Last edited by Papa; 11-26-2019 at 09:51 AM.
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First Start: 12/30/2017
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MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17 Halibrand Replicas (9 front, 10.5 rear), Nitto 555 G2s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddies Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetals Firewall Forward, Fortes Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
Remember that Factory Five does its kits so that the "regular guy" can afford one. They don't include a lot of extras that many of us put in, as that makes the price go up. Breaking driveshafts (really mostly U-joints and yokes) is not common in anything that sees street use. But, what is the first thing that most of us do in the planning stage? How do I get big power and how do I get good traction? Driveshaft twisting ability is the fist thing most guys put on their wish list.
I don't plan on actually needing seatbelts either. But I certainly have them installed. A loop is pretty cheap and the Metco one takes minutes to install.
Dang it you guys, stop it, now I had to go buy one myself!
I broke a U-Joint, don't remember if front or rear, in my '67 Vette 40 something years ago. No serious damage, wasn't going fast. But it makes you think.
Saw the results of a broken shaft in a Superformance. Beat the snot out of frame rails, nobody was hurt. Superformance driveshafts are a bit longer than FFRs.
With the help of a friend we built a round hoop for my IRS Challenge Car. It's a welded and bolted assembly that mounts on the rear tubes of the trans tunnel. All's removable. The hoop is 4.5" ID, .375" wall and about 2.5" long, split and welded much like riflescope rings. The basic theory is that if it can't swing far out of it's rotational axis it won't go real far.
I will continue to use a DS hoop and scattershield.
I got to figure out how to post photos. I am technology challenged or maybe it's just a patience issue.
Jim
Only time I ever had a u joint fail was on a 57 Chevy with a corvette 283. Oddly enough for me, at that age, I was driving really tame when the rear joint let go. Luckily it did't completely disconnect, or it could have been worse. Went with a Metco hoop, and never concerned myself with what it cost.
Rick
Mk4 with Mr. Bruce FIA body, 331 w/ Speedmaster Stack Injection, Full Width Roll Bar with high brake lights by i.e.427, IRS, ABS, PS, PB, FAST FI, First start 3/30/20, First go-kart 7/5/20, paint by Ken Pike
My driveshaft failed in my MKIII Roadster. It was not under any torque, nor do I have a cool story to go with it. I was crossing a road coming from a stop. I was not on it, just slowly taking off to cross the intersection. My 9 yr old son was in the passenger seat at the time. It went through the AL tunnel and just missed him at the hips, we got lucky. After replacing the e brake cables, driveshaft, repairing the broken, tabs straightening anything bent, and installing a hoop, all done and said close to $750 in parts and I did the work myself so no labor.
The driveshaft failed due to a poor decision by a shop that thought they knew how to handle AL and weld AL.
It's your decision but when a driveshaft is either next to you or under your arm when your driving, I would have one on period. Whatever the cost for the hoop is now is just cheap compared to any possible medical bills. Just my thoughts....
Moose, that's a great example -- in your case you were not applying gobs of torque that broke the drive shaft. OK, the root cause was a defective weld but it could have been damage, wear, misalignment, operating above critical speed, too much torque, or any number of things that led to a failure. The point is these things sometimes do fail catastrophically and when they do it can result in major damage and has the potential to cause injury. Adding a drive shaft safety loop should be a no brainer. It should also highlight why it's a very bad idea to run fuel and brake lines anywhere near a drive shaft but I see people building these FFR kit cars and running fuel and brake lines down the trans tunnel. One car is actually designed by FFR to do just that -- major oversight IMO. I'm preachin' to the choir here but others may follow along and read this thread and with so many here convinced that a drive shaft loop is a must have safety feature, perhaps they will also consider one on their build.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
I have the driveshaft loop still in the box. From the picture of it installed, it seems to be the lowest point of the chassis. Does anyone have problems scraping it on speed bumps or driveways?
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
That was my 1st concern since these cars sit so low.
My 2nd concern was how out of place that loop looks, frankly, pretty darn ugly looking.
I understand that it's a pretty easy bolt on, and that's exactly what it looks like.
I went with Mike Fortes loop. very nice piece
Shelby-Cobra-Replica-Forte-Driveshaft-Safety-Loop-Factory.jpg
Last edited by aspbite; 11-26-2019 at 05:23 AM.
Mark IV, Boss 351c, Toploader, Levy 5 link
Mk4 Complete kit with IRS, IRS brakes, Power Steering, 302 mounts, 302 headers, TKO, 2 Rollbars, Leather seats,
vintage gauges, polished stainless sidepipes, front and rear sway bars, all cutouts.
Blueprint Engines 347 stroker; Tremec TKO 600; 3.55 IRS, 17" Bullitt wheels: 9" front 10.5" rear.
Delivered Nov. 6, 2018. First start Aug. 11, 2019. First Go-Cart Feb. 21, 2020.
Here is a link to the METCO part:
https://www.metcomotorsports.com/pro...p?prod=MDL2500
I couldn't find the link to the hoop on Forte's site, but you can call him. (508) 875-0016
Last edited by Papa; 11-26-2019 at 08:33 AM.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
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Google is your friend: https://www.metcomotorsports.com/pro...p?prod=MDL2500. They typically don't have them in stock. In the past have done limited runs based on a number of requests. But sure doesn't hurt to check and see if/when available. I used one on my #7750 build. Very nice piece and easy bolt-on.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
This was one of my winter updates on my Mk4 last year. I used the Metco piece. Nice product. Hope it’s never needed.
JRL16
Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gasn sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.
I haven't seen one of Mike's hoops, but both are bolt-on parts. For Mike's, you'll not have anything hanging below the frame. The METCO part hangs about 3/4" below the 4" tube, but isn't a concern in my opinion. The METCO bolts on using existing holes and doesn't require you to disconnect the drive shaft. The Forte part requires you to drill and either tap or install threaded inserts into the 4" tubes (eight of them), and you'll need to disconnect and thread the drive shaft through the hoop. Both will serve the intended purpose.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
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Metco shaft safety loop. Don't leave home without it. Well done, easy install before or after the car is built.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
Broke many a U joint in other cars. Absolute must. Also blew a clutch and it cut the aluminum bell housing in half. Luckily, didn't cut thru the floor. A steal bell housing is also a must for me.
Last edited by Ducky2009; 12-03-2019 at 09:00 AM.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
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Thanks everyone for your help!
Jeff
https://www.dragzine.com/news/michig...eline-failure/
This story was just pushed out to those of us that subscribe to Dragzine. A bit late for this thread but still I wanted to share as it does demonstrate how violent a driveshaft failure can be and highlights how these failures can instantly cause injury. NHRA requires driveshaft safety loops and other safety devices well beyond what you will normally find in any street car and still this incident caused a serious injury.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
Test fitting the Forte Loop up today.
Safety loop.jpg
That looks like a pain in the a$$ to install. The Metco hoop takes longer to jack up the car than to install.
It is, you have to tap eight 5/16" holes into the 4" tubes. Plus a little pounding and jacking to get it fit up.