Boig Motorsports

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  23
Likes Likes:  7
Results 1 to 39 of 39

Thread: Driveshaft Safety Loop?

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    25
    Post Thanks / Like

    Driveshaft Safety Loop?

    Thoughts and opinions on the need to add a driveshaft safety loop for a street driver Roadster? Is it a must have or a nice to have for a 10” driveshaft? If you added, any recommendations on what brand / style you used?

    Thanks, Jeff

  2. #2
    Senior Member MSumners's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Hudsonville, MI
    Posts
    211
    Post Thanks / Like
    Used a Metco piece. Well made and simple bolt-on. For the price I never would consider driving without one and gives some peace of mind. Likely you will get differing opinions.
    Complete kit. Delivered 3/19.
    Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...4-Build-Thread
    Dart 347 with FiTech 600 from Forte. TKO600. PS. IRS. Wilwoods.
    Forte hydraulic clutch, mech throttle.
    Multiple breeze components: RT turn signal and drop trunk.
    ReplicaParts: Radiator aluminum, under dash panel, multiple different trim rings.

  3. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  4. #3
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Bakersfield, CA
    Posts
    353
    Post Thanks / Like
    X2 Cheap insurance...,

    Kurt
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

    Build thread

    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

  5. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  6. #4

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
    GoDadGo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Slidell, Louisiana
    Posts
    3,687
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    X2 Cheap insurance...,

    Kurt
    X3

    I used the kit shown below as a starting point and it worked out well.
    With a little cutting, bending and welding I was able to bolt it to the inner seat belt brackets.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...9004/overview/

    I'm also running a bell house blanket since there is No Blow Proof Option for my particular transmission.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...9010?rrec=true

    Big Daddy lost half of his right foot nearly 50 years ago before he changed Top Fuel Drag Racing forever.

    https://youtu.be/rwXZjH3GTQc

    Though not likely to happen to us, my favorite Drag Racing Man with the plan knows a thing or two about drive-line failures.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-25-2019 at 09:20 AM.

  7. Thanks Aircontroller, Jdauble thanked for this post
    Likes Aircontroller liked this post
  8. #5
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    1,408
    Post Thanks / Like
    I've had two driveshafts explode -- can you guess what my recommendation is?

    When it comes to safety: If there is ever a doubt -- there is no doubt.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
    33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  9. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
    Likes Aircontroller liked this post
  10. #6
    Papa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    2,333
    Post Thanks / Like
    Another vote for the Metco bolt on hoop.



    Think about where that drive shaft is in relation to your body.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  11. Thanks Jdauble, Aircontroller thanked for this post
    Likes GoDadGo liked this post
  12. #7
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    1,120
    Post Thanks / Like
    I’ve got one too..
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Blueprint 427, TKO 600, IRS
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  13. #8
    Member CFranks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Berwyn, PA
    Posts
    76
    Post Thanks / Like
    I put the metco on as well. Street driver now so maybe a little overkill insurance, but also protecting in case some day I autocross or do something stupid on the street.

    There was a similar thread (link below) last year that I'm sure resulted in a massive surge in Metco's summer sales!

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Recommendation
    MK IV Roadster #7999
    Ford Racing 427x; QF 670 Carb; TKO 600; 3.31 Rear End; 3-link; 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Khumo Ecstas (275 front, 315 rear), Manual Steering (to be upgraded to power this winter); Power Brakes; 8/1/19 - Legal in gelcoat!

  14. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  15. #9
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Jax Beach, FL
    Posts
    1,368
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have one also. Hopefully for all of us it will be wasted money. But, you have to have it before you need it.

    Answering on do you need it for a driveshaft that is only 10 inched long....

    A shorter shaft cannot handle as much torque as a longer shaft.
    It is right next to your hip.
    Probably not a pole vault risk like a long driveshaft.
    Last edited by Avalanche325; 11-25-2019 at 10:56 AM.

  16. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
    Likes GoDadGo liked this post
  17. #10

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
    GoDadGo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Slidell, Louisiana
    Posts
    3,687
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    I've had two driveshafts explode -- can you guess what my recommendation is?


    That's Two More Than I Want To Experience!

  18. #11
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    1,408
    Post Thanks / Like
    OK, for those who are reading this and saying to themselves " I'm never going to race my car so a drive shaft loop is overkill". I was a teen when I experienced my first u-joint failure on a street car. A 1965 Mustang Fastback, 289 with 4-speed trans and the car was only a couple years old. The 271HP with a four-speed and at the time seemed like a lot of power in a small package but nothing like most here are building today. Setting at a stop light with no other cars around and the light turns green. I was Bob Glidden leaving the line -- revved the engine and dumped the clutch. Lucky I never made it through second gear before the front u-joint let go. It was instant carnage but could have been worse.

    My second drive shaft failure was at >6000 RPM (that's drive shaft RPM not engine RPM) and the damage from that one was very impressive. Shrapnel through the floor, frame rails twisted and damaged. And it happens in a nano-second but takes seemingly forever to get stopped and all the time the drive shaft is still spinning and shredding itself and everything it touches. Oh, and that was also a street only vehicle.

    Lucky I've never had a drive shaft explode in a race car -- yet. But then I also take precautions to mitigate the safety hazards now that I'm smarter.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
    33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  19. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
    Likes SSNK4US liked this post
  20. #12
    Senior Member GTBradley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
    463
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm guessing that FFR doesn't supply them with the kit because it's not common in there cars? Has any one ever had it happen in a Roadster? It would be nice to know how well the driveshaft safety loops are performing, or even what kind of damage was caused by a driveshaft failing without one.
    MK IV Coyote Roadster
    "Life ought to be a struggle of desire toward adventures whose nobility will fertilize the soul."
    Rebecca West
    Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...TKO600-and-IRS

  21. #13
    Papa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    2,333
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by GTBradley View Post
    I'm guessing that FFR doesn't supply them with the kit because it's not common in there cars? Has any one ever had it happen in a Roadster? It would be nice to know how well the driveshaft safety loops are performing, or even what kind of damage was caused by a driveshaft failing without one.
    In another thread on this subject, someone posted a picture of a roadster's mangled trans tunnel following a failure. The damage included a large hole punched through the aluminum panel right at the rear corner of the passenger side of the cockpit, severed wire harness, severed battery cable, and severed e-bake cables.

    Last edited by Papa; 11-26-2019 at 09:51 AM.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  22. #14
    Senior Member GTBradley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
    463
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looks like a safety loop would have done it's job there!
    MK IV Coyote Roadster
    "Life ought to be a struggle of desire toward adventures whose nobility will fertilize the soul."
    Rebecca West
    Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...TKO600-and-IRS

  23. #15
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Fairfax Station VA
    Posts
    689
    Post Thanks / Like
    When you install your drive shaft loop, check for interference with the parking brake cables. Make your check with the aluminum flooring in place, otherwise you'll have to re-route your re-routed parking brake cables.


    John

    IMG_3530 by jhsitton, on Flickr
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

  24. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  25. #16
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Jax Beach, FL
    Posts
    1,368
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by GTBradley View Post
    I'm guessing that FFR doesn't supply them with the kit because it's not common in there cars? Has any one ever had it happen in a Roadster? It would be nice to know how well the driveshaft safety loops are performing, or even what kind of damage was caused by a driveshaft failing without one.
    Remember that Factory Five does its kits so that the "regular guy" can afford one. They don't include a lot of extras that many of us put in, as that makes the price go up. Breaking driveshafts (really mostly U-joints and yokes) is not common in anything that sees street use. But, what is the first thing that most of us do in the planning stage? How do I get big power and how do I get good traction? Driveshaft twisting ability is the fist thing most guys put on their wish list.

    I don't plan on actually needing seatbelts either. But I certainly have them installed. A loop is pretty cheap and the Metco one takes minutes to install.

  26. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  27. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Edmonton, AB, Canada
    Posts
    69
    Post Thanks / Like
    Dang it you guys, stop it, now I had to go buy one myself!

  28. #18
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Jax Beach, FL
    Posts
    1,368
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by SDhemmings View Post
    Dang it you guys, stop it, now I had to go buy one myself!
    Now for the next item..................Mwaaahahahaha

  29. #19
    Senior Member GTBradley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Centennial, CO
    Posts
    463
    Post Thanks / Like
    I think I'll put that on my Black Friday watch list.
    MK IV Coyote Roadster
    "Life ought to be a struggle of desire toward adventures whose nobility will fertilize the soul."
    Rebecca West
    Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...TKO600-and-IRS

  30. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    334
    Post Thanks / Like
    I broke a U-Joint, don't remember if front or rear, in my '67 Vette 40 something years ago. No serious damage, wasn't going fast. But it makes you think.

    Saw the results of a broken shaft in a Superformance. Beat the snot out of frame rails, nobody was hurt. Superformance driveshafts are a bit longer than FFRs.

    With the help of a friend we built a round hoop for my IRS Challenge Car. It's a welded and bolted assembly that mounts on the rear tubes of the trans tunnel. All's removable. The hoop is 4.5" ID, .375" wall and about 2.5" long, split and welded much like riflescope rings. The basic theory is that if it can't swing far out of it's rotational axis it won't go real far.

    I will continue to use a DS hoop and scattershield.

    I got to figure out how to post photos. I am technology challenged or maybe it's just a patience issue.

    Jim

  31. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  32. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    San Ramon, CA
    Posts
    284
    Post Thanks / Like
    Only time I ever had a u joint fail was on a 57 Chevy with a corvette 283. Oddly enough for me, at that age, I was driving really tame when the rear joint let go. Luckily it did't completely disconnect, or it could have been worse. Went with a Metco hoop, and never concerned myself with what it cost.
    Rick

    Mk4 with Mr. Bruce FIA body, Levy 331 w/ Speedmaster Stack Injection, IRS, ABS, PS, PB, FAST FI

  33. #22
    Member Bad Moose's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    89
    Post Thanks / Like
    My driveshaft failed in my MKIII Roadster. It was not under any torque, nor do I have a cool story to go with it. I was crossing a road coming from a stop. I was not on it, just slowly taking off to cross the intersection. My 9 yr old son was in the passenger seat at the time. It went through the AL tunnel and just missed him at the hips, we got lucky. After replacing the e brake cables, driveshaft, repairing the broken, tabs straightening anything bent, and installing a hoop, all done and said close to $750 in parts and I did the work myself so no labor.

    The driveshaft failed due to a poor decision by a shop that thought they knew how to handle AL and weld AL.

    It's your decision but when a driveshaft is either next to you or under your arm when your driving, I would have one on period. Whatever the cost for the hoop is now is just cheap compared to any possible medical bills. Just my thoughts....

  34. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  35. #23
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    1,408
    Post Thanks / Like
    Moose, that's a great example -- in your case you were not applying gobs of torque that broke the drive shaft. OK, the root cause was a defective weld but it could have been damage, wear, misalignment, operating above critical speed, too much torque, or any number of things that led to a failure. The point is these things sometimes do fail catastrophically and when they do it can result in major damage and has the potential to cause injury. Adding a drive shaft safety loop should be a no brainer. It should also highlight why it's a very bad idea to run fuel and brake lines anywhere near a drive shaft but I see people building these FFR kit cars and running fuel and brake lines down the trans tunnel. One car is actually designed by FFR to do just that -- major oversight IMO. I'm preachin' to the choir here but others may follow along and read this thread and with so many here convinced that a drive shaft loop is a must have safety feature, perhaps they will also consider one on their build.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
    33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  36. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  37. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    183
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have the driveshaft loop still in the box. From the picture of it installed, it seems to be the lowest point of the chassis. Does anyone have problems scraping it on speed bumps or driveways?
    MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes

  38. #25
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    St. Petersburg, FL
    Posts
    63
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TMartinLVNV View Post
    I have the driveshaft loop still in the box. From the picture of it installed, it seems to be the lowest point of the chassis. Does anyone have problems scraping it on speed bumps or driveways?
    That was my 1st concern since these cars sit so low.
    My 2nd concern was how out of place that loop looks, frankly, pretty darn ugly looking.
    I understand that it's a pretty easy bolt on, and that's exactly what it looks like.
    I went with Mike Fortes loop. very nice piece
    Shelby-Cobra-Replica-Forte-Driveshaft-Safety-Loop-Factory.jpg
    Last edited by aspbite; 11-26-2019 at 05:23 AM.
    Mark IV, 351c, Levy 5 link

  39. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  40. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Saint Johns, Florida
    Posts
    111
    Post Thanks / Like

    Cool URL for Metco driveshaft loop

    Quote Originally Posted by MSumners View Post
    Used a Metco piece. Well made and simple bolt-on. For the price I never would consider driving without one and gives some peace of mind. Likely you will get differing opinions.
    OK, I sold. Please give me the link.
    Mk4 Complete kit with IRS, IRS brakes, Power Steering, 302 mounts, 302 headers, TKO, 2 Rollbars, Leather seats, vintage gauges, polished stainless sidepipes, front and rear sway bars, all cutouts.
    Blueprint Engines 347 stroker; Tremec TKO 600; 3.55 IRS, 17" Bullitt wheels: 9" front 10.5" rear.
    Delivered Nov. 6, 2018. First start Aug. 11, 2019. Not go-carted yet.

  41. #27
    Papa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    2,333
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff's First FFR View Post
    OK, I sold. Please give me the link.
    Here is a link to the METCO part:

    https://www.metcomotorsports.com/pro...p?prod=MDL2500

    I couldn't find the link to the hoop on Forte's site, but you can call him. (508) 875-0016
    Last edited by Papa; 11-26-2019 at 08:33 AM.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  42. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  43. #28
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    6,403
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff's First FFR View Post
    OK, I sold. Please give me the link.
    Google is your friend: https://www.metcomotorsports.com/pro...p?prod=MDL2500. They typically don't have them in stock. In the past have done limited runs based on a number of requests. But sure doesn't hurt to check and see if/when available. I used one on my #7750 build. Very nice piece and easy bolt-on.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  44. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  45. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    247
    Post Thanks / Like
    This was one of my winter updates on my Mk4 last year. I used the Metco piece. Nice product. Hope it’s never needed.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  46. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  47. #30
    Papa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    2,333
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by aspbite View Post
    That was my 1st concern since these cars sit so low.
    My 2nd concern was how out of place that loop looks, frankly, pretty darn ugly looking.
    I understand that it's a pretty easy bolt on, and that's exactly what it looks like.
    I went with Mike Fortes loop. very nice piece
    Shelby-Cobra-Replica-Forte-Driveshaft-Safety-Loop-Factory.jpg
    I haven't seen one of Mike's hoops, but both are bolt-on parts. For Mike's, you'll not have anything hanging below the frame. The METCO part hangs about 3/4" below the 4" tube, but isn't a concern in my opinion. The METCO bolts on using existing holes and doesn't require you to disconnect the drive shaft. The Forte part requires you to drill and either tap or install threaded inserts into the 4" tubes (eight of them), and you'll need to disconnect and thread the drive shaft through the hoop. Both will serve the intended purpose.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  48. Thanks Jdauble, ydousurf thanked for this post
  49. #31
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Raleigh NC USA
    Posts
    922
    Post Thanks / Like
    Metco shaft safety loop. Don't leave home without it. Well done, easy install before or after the car is built.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '13/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  50. Thanks Jdauble thanked for this post
  51. #32
    Member Bad Moose's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    89
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    Moose, that's a great example -- in your case you were not applying gobs of torque that broke the drive shaft. OK, the root cause was a defective weld but it could have been damage, wear, misalignment, operating above critical speed, too much torque, or any number of things that led to a failure. The point is these things sometimes do fail catastrophically and when they do it can result in major damage and has the potential to cause injury. Adding a drive shaft safety loop should be a no brainer. It should also highlight why it's a very bad idea to run fuel and brake lines anywhere near a drive shaft but I see people building these FFR kit cars and running fuel and brake lines down the trans tunnel. One car is actually designed by FFR to do just that -- major oversight IMO. I'm preachin' to the choir here but others may follow along and read this thread and with so many here convinced that a drive shaft loop is a must have safety feature, perhaps they will also consider one on their build.
    Well stated.

  52. #33
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Lilburn, GA
    Posts
    493
    Post Thanks / Like
    Broke many a U joint in other cars. Absolute must. Also blew a clutch and it cut the aluminum bell housing in half. Luckily, didn't cut thru the floor. A steal bell housing is also a must for me.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 12-03-2019 at 09:00 AM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  53. #34
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    25
    Post Thanks / Like

    Thanks!

    Thanks everyone for your help!

    Jeff

  54. #35
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    1,408
    Post Thanks / Like
    https://www.dragzine.com/news/michig...eline-failure/

    This story was just pushed out to those of us that subscribe to Dragzine. A bit late for this thread but still I wanted to share as it does demonstrate how violent a driveshaft failure can be and highlights how these failures can instantly cause injury. NHRA requires driveshaft safety loops and other safety devices well beyond what you will normally find in any street car and still this incident caused a serious injury.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
    33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  55. Thanks Aircontroller thanked for this post
  56. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Fredericksburg, VA
    Posts
    187
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Hey Naz,

    The accident occurred with a safety loop and it still had a catastrophic failure like that? Wow.....I cannot imagine this with no safety loop. That’s incredible.


    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    https://www.dragzine.com/news/michig...eline-failure/

    This story was just pushed out to those of us that subscribe to Dragzine. A bit late for this thread but still I wanted to share as it does demonstrate how violent a driveshaft failure can be and highlights how these failures can instantly cause injury. NHRA requires driveshaft safety loops and other safety devices well beyond what you will normally find in any street car and still this incident caused a serious injury.

  57. #37
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Orange County, Ca
    Posts
    79
    Post Thanks / Like
    Test fitting the Forte Loop up today.

    Safety loop.jpg

  58. Likes GTBradley liked this post
  59. #38
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    O'Fallon, MO
    Posts
    1,020
    Post Thanks / Like
    That looks like a pain in the a$$ to install. The Metco hoop takes longer to jack up the car than to install.

  60. Likes BEAR-AvHistory liked this post
  61. #39
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Orange County, Ca
    Posts
    79
    Post Thanks / Like
    It is, you have to tap eight 5/16" holes into the 4" tubes. Plus a little pounding and jacking to get it fit up.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Replica Promotions

Visit our community sponsor