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Thread: Marsha's Gen-1 33 build by Wallace18

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    Marsha's Gen-1 33 build by Wallace18

    The very first FFR kit I ever built was a Gen-1 33.
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...e18-s-33-build

    Marsha, my wife was never happy that I sold that car. Well as luck would have it I am getting a Gen-1 33 kit partially done tomorrow. It has a 347 Blueprint engine/trans package. I was fortunate to get this at a very good price. I really wanted to build one of the new Speedstars, but I could not pass up this deal. I will post photos and details tomorrow. Marsha, my wife gets to pick out the color and interior color. We will do a semi-custom interior on this one vs the standard one I usually do. I am looking forward to this as a way of getting out of the dog house somewhat, LOL.
    Last edited by wallace18; 12-11-2019 at 07:40 PM.

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    Very few Gen-1 builds anymore. Glad to see a "new" one added to the active roster. I'm really interested in seeing your custom interior. I have been putting the interior off while I work on other stuff, so you have time to catch up to me. Your previous work was always top notch, so the new interior should be spectacular! (no pressure) Keith HR#894

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    Quote Originally Posted by progmgr1 View Post
    Very few Gen-1 builds anymore. Glad to see a "new" one added to the active roster. I'm really interested in seeing your custom interior. I have been putting the interior off while I work on other stuff, so you have time to catch up to me. Your previous work was always top notch, so the new interior should be spectacular! (no pressure) Keith HR#894
    Thanks. This one is most likely among the last Gen-1's. The fellow that ordered it thought he was getting a Gen-2 but since he ordered it in Nov. 2018 he got a Gen-1. The Gen-2 was already at SEMA and all.

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    Picked up The kit today with the help of my friend Art. The kit is partially done but I am going to take it almost completely apart as I want to do some of the stuff very differently than the previous owner did. All part of the fun, LOL. All new stuff. Here is a partial list.

    From Blueprint a BP3473CTFK 347 small block Ford with A/C, Alt, Sniper EFI, Starter, flex plate, oil and filter. Also a Ford BPPFFR4R70W Automatic transmission.
    From FFR the following:
    Hot Rod Complete Kit
    Powder coated frame, 18/20" Black Bonneville style wheel/tire set
    302 engine mounts, spread rear exhaust, FFR EFI fuel system
    28 spline drive shaft
    Vinyl seats, Hot Rod A/C kit
    3-link rear suspension, Moser 8.8 3:55 rear axle,11.65" rear disc brakes, Electric P/S
    Hood, sides, Hardtop, P/W windows
    Bike fender kit, Paintable tilt column, FFR gauge cluster, FFR floor mats

    DBE0C00D-E12E-4F34-8DE1-965EC006D8EA.jpegEBCA6DB4-EE06-4CDC-9D71-57E8303ED1B5.jpeg02E6FBEA-71DD-46BC-8876-EB2DAA29E652.jpeg5C4A5B02-FCC8-4EFD-A434-2647C9405FB0.jpegB11472D9-A28A-4644-B590-B01DC2C7A856.jpegB11472D9-A28A-4644-B590-B01DC2C7A856.jpegAD4FC5BD-77B2-4A19-ABC0-6CD9DC36AFA8.jpegFFAAFBB1-8BDE-447E-BD31-3F3DE026DE0F.jpeg
    Also came with aftermarket shaved door handle kit, Hideaway stereo system Lizard skin, X-Mats as well as numerous other high end parts.

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    Wow! Excellent acquisition! Pls post as much as possible on your progress !

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    `With the holidays it is hard to find time to work on Marsha's 33. I did get a few hours today. I pulled off the body, the top of the firewall, P/B and got rid of the front fender mounts. We are not going to do front fenders. Not sure about the rear ones as of yet. I want to engine turn firewall. Also redo the fuel system, wiring and exhaust. So lots of removal for now.

    393334A7-1A38-4352-9F91-40CE1FE03F41.jpegD24E230B-7455-4A52-9A8B-C8D54453C2FF.jpeg2BB6C04D-4F55-4057-8AA4-DCDDE18474A8.jpeg

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    Had a 1/2 day to work on the 33. I engine turned fire wall, added extra insulation on cockpit side and installed polished 10/32 button head screws. I painted all the bare metal parts. I also removed the fuel system lines, pump and filter as well as the + battery cable. I was not happy with how it was done so I am going to start over on all of that. I will also replace Whitby 1" master with 1.12 Wilwood unit.

    97BFA46D-CDC2-4AB0-A935-5EBD2A01E2B1.jpeg89587C93-3A6E-499C-A5C4-F31B94D05DC7.jpeg804B129C-455A-436F-87E1-1860590A6CE4.jpeg01A02DEC-0BA5-4E83-B45D-3447F9332844.jpeg281F5360-6C8D-4323-A00E-E57C9376DF8C.jpegFE3C9E0B-D069-43BF-93DF-0D01EC0727F1.jpeg
    Last edited by wallace18; 12-09-2019 at 05:25 PM.

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    What prompted you to remove that entire fuel system?


    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Had a 1/2 day to work on the 33. I engine turned fire wall, added extra insulation on cockpit side and installed polished 10/32 button head screws. I painted all the bare metal parts. I also removed the fuel system lines, pump and filter as well as the + battery cable. I was not happy with how it was done so I am going to start over on all of that. I will also replace Whitby 1" master with 1.12 Wilwood unit.

    97BFA46D-CDC2-4AB0-A935-5EBD2A01E2B1.jpeg89587C93-3A6E-499C-A5C4-F31B94D05DC7.jpeg804B129C-455A-436F-87E1-1860590A6CE4.jpeg01A02DEC-0BA5-4E83-B45D-3447F9332844.jpeg281F5360-6C8D-4323-A00E-E57C9376DF8C.jpegFE3C9E0B-D069-43BF-93DF-0D01EC0727F1.jpeg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aircontroller View Post
    What prompted you to remove that entire fuel system?
    It was done incorrectly.

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    Tom-

    Congratulations on the acquisition! Looks like you got yourself a kit with a great package of higher end parts! Like all your builds, I look forward to following along with your progress. I like how you are using this as a get out of the doghouse project; I can always use one of those!!

    You are off to a great start, as always, and I look forward to seeing how this turns out. Thanks for taking the time to show us how you do it!

    Regards,

    Steve

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    Got in a few hours the last 2 days. I removed the entire fuel system except for the fuel tank and Sniper. I used the braided fuel lines that FFR supplied like I did on my last MK4 build. I also removed most of the wiring and redoing it so it flows much better and will not chafe. Installed a master disconnect as well as new battery to starter wiring and Alt. I also removed the 2 heater hoses and used 2-90 degree fittings so they flow better and do not kink. As this is my 14th kit I have a certain way I like to do things so making it work better for me is a plus.

    88D6F3A0-5720-410A-BFF8-CD1A32CDF0ED.jpeg13B04F31-0002-4817-A7F7-4B83887311DD.jpeg83176043-CF2F-4D64-95B4-7278C45CAF46.jpeg13BA2578-5B29-47D5-931D-09FB3FEC3D60.jpegC472DADB-09E2-4EBC-84FF-0B37F0397571.jpeg

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Tom, your post reminds me that I still have to figure out what to do with the tank vent. What is your plan?

    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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    The tank vent goes to a charcoal canister FFR provides now. In the past they did not supply one so I made one or got one out of a boneyard.

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    Worked mostly on fixing exhaust today. Anyone who has built a Gen-1 33 knows how tight the exhaust is in the frame. I heard this is fixed on Gen-2. I take the pipes and oval them in my vice so I have ample clearance. First photo shows how exhaust is hitting frame then after vice you can see the difference in air gap. I also installed Wilwood master and gas pedal as well as Lokar throttle cable.

    F61ABB9A-9188-4AB5-BD9D-D23C1DCEA706.jpeg46E367DA-E144-47F0-9796-DDFED265B7C8.jpegE6E87740-BA53-4209-B2BA-A8D24EC737CA.jpegBE469D93-998F-43D4-B856-564B9AB72169.jpeg

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    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Worked mostly on fixing exhaust today. Anyone who has built a Gen-1 33 knows how tight the exhaust is in the frame. I heard this is fixed on Gen-2. I take the pipes and oval them in my vice so I have ample clearance. First photo shows how exhaust is hitting frame then after vice you can see the difference in air gap. I also installed Wilwood master and gas pedal as well as Lokar throttle cable.

    F61ABB9A-9188-4AB5-BD9D-D23C1DCEA706.jpeg46E367DA-E144-47F0-9796-DDFED265B7C8.jpegE6E87740-BA53-4209-B2BA-A8D24EC737CA.jpegBE469D93-998F-43D4-B856-564B9AB72169.jpeg
    My son and I will be doing exactly the same thing this weekend to finalize the exhaust installation! Really Like that Wilwood master setup!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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    I put Lizard Skin on bottom of floors and select other aluminum panels. Installed floors and driveshaft cover.

    F7586EFA-DDB7-446E-B017-A94E2BE47421.jpegBB216832-5F06-4CCD-8C15-55C8E481E7E9.jpeg09CCB4A2-9815-4985-8F15-2ED300659FA0.jpeg

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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Got in a few hours the last 2 days. I removed the entire fuel system except for the fuel tank and Sniper. I used the braided fuel lines that FFR supplied like I did on my last MK4 build. I also removed most of the wiring and redoing it so it flows much better and will not chafe. Installed a master disconnect as well as new battery to starter wiring and Alt. I also removed the 2 heater hoses and used 2-90 degree fittings so they flow better and do not kink. As this is my 14th kit I have a certain way I like to do things so making it work better for me is a plus.

    88D6F3A0-5720-410A-BFF8-CD1A32CDF0ED.jpeg13B04F31-0002-4817-A7F7-4B83887311DD.jpeg83176043-CF2F-4D64-95B4-7278C45CAF46.jpeg13BA2578-5B29-47D5-931D-09FB3FEC3D60.jpegC472DADB-09E2-4EBC-84FF-0B37F0397571.jpeg
    As a pro buiklder what is your opinion of the FFR EFI Kit? Worth it? and what all does it include?
    -- Mike --
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxMike64 View Post
    As a pro buiklder what is your opinion of the FFR EFI Kit? Worth it? and what all does it include?

    For the novice the FFR it is worth it IMO. It comes with a pump, lines, fittings, filters and pressure regulator. I sometimes like to use different stuff. Both FFR efi units I installed were ordered by someone other than me. I have installed the FFR efi twice and have modified it some from the instructions with good results.

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    Got to work on the 33 a few hours yesterday. Marsha noticed my 35 P/U steering column was chrome. She wanted her to be chrome also. FFR shipped one very quickly to us and I installed it. It does look much better, Imo.

    BD3966CB-19B8-4014-BC45-7069A68D6F7D.jpeg04BACB68-CCC1-4609-A730-C7B015C16411.jpeg13A3D08F-983F-4873-9310-7C2CE73CA498.jpeg

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    Spent all day yesterday replacing my 8' fluorescent lights with 8' LED units. So much brighter now. I really like being able to see well while working.

    538E5235-613A-407A-A083-EB7B7DC842A0.jpegB13B911E-2A99-4F39-902C-D338831DB36A.jpeg

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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Spent all day yesterday replacing my 8' fluorescent lights with 8' LED units. So much brighter now. I really like being able to see well while working.

    538E5235-613A-407A-A083-EB7B7DC842A0.jpegB13B911E-2A99-4F39-902C-D338831DB36A.jpeg
    The LED Lights are amazing - brighter, no warm up in winter, and no buzzzz. Best upgrade for a garage in support of maturing eyesight.
    - Peterh226 #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
    Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
    YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
    AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10

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    After going back and forth with Blueprint and Performance Transmission I finally gave up trying to get information on the 6 all black wires that come out of the selector switch on the side of the 4R70W transmission that Blueprint sells as a package with the 347 for the 33 Hot Rod. This is what the fellow I bought this kit from bought. There are 6 black wires(7 thru 12)that come out of the switch where the selector rod goes for the shifter. They are about 6" long and not attached to anything. I finally found this wiring diagram that matches the switch connector. I verified all the connections with my ohm meter.The connector has the wire #'s on it as well. Not sure why Blueprint or Performance transmission would not offer this needed info but here it is for anyone else buying this transmission/ engine package from Blueprint. If you want to have a lockout relay so the car only starts in neutral or park use wires 10 &12 for your relay coil inline for your start circuit wire. For back up lights I will also use a relay and wire the coil using wires 9&11. wires 2 thru 6 are for the auto trans shift functions. Hope this helps someone out. It took me lots of phone and internet time to get this info. I will post in General info as well.

    28C63C3A-D27A-41A8-90B9-04E567847CEF.jpeg02C88724-C581-47E9-A91B-DBB23DE3DF0A.jpeg41C9499E-71FA-474E-8ACF-C57C8667A9B0.jpeg38752387-B55F-45DC-ACFB-EC5F406AC6F1.jpeg
    Last edited by wallace18; 01-19-2020 at 02:24 PM. Reason: added photos

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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    After going back and forth with Blueprint and Performance Transmission I finally gave up trying to get information on the 6 all black wires that come out of the selector switch on the side of the 4R70W transmission that Blueprint sells as a package with the 347 for the 33 Hot Rod. This is what the fellow I bought this kit from bought. There are 6 black wires(7 thru 12)that come out of the switch where the selector rod goes for the shifter. They are about 6" long and not attached to anything. I finally found this wiring diagram that matches the switch connector. I verified all the connections with my ohm meter.The connector has the wire #'s on it as well. Not sure why Blueprint or Performance transmission would offer this needed info but here it is for anyone else buying this transmission/ engine package from Blueprint. If you want to have a lockout relay so the car only starts in neutral or park use wires 10 &12 for your relay coil inline for your start circuit wire. For back up lights I will also use a relay and wire the coil using wires 9&11. wires 2 thru 6 are for the auto trans shift functions. Hope this helps someone out. It took me lots of phone and internet time to get this info. I will post in General info as well.


    28C63C3A-D27A-41A8-90B9-04E567847CEF.jpeg02C88724-C581-47E9-A91B-DBB23DE3DF0A.jpeg41C9499E-71FA-474E-8ACF-C57C8667A9B0.jpeg38752387-B55F-45DC-ACFB-EC5F406AC6F1.jpeg

    Tom, I think you are going to find that shifter Won't work like that. The lever has to be facing down. the way you have it will be backwards...

    I just did one of these in a roadster.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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    Ron, It goes into Park when it is supposed to and all the rest as it is set up. Not sure why the one you had was opposite.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Ron, It goes into Park when it is supposed to and all the rest as it is set up. Not sure why the one you had was opposite.
    ... I used a cable. So it pushes when your shift rods pull and pulls when your shift rods push.

    HUH?
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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    Quote Originally Posted by FFinisher View Post
    ... I used a cable. So it pushes when your shift rods pull and pulls when your shift rods push.

    HUH?
    I think you hit it on the head. It is the difference of cable vs rod.

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    Got to do some work today. The rest of the Gen-2 hood hinge brackets came in. Got them all mounted. Very stout S/S assembly IMO. I like much better than Gen-1 set-up. I also finished up the engine compartment hoses. I got my Replicaparts radiator hose kit installed and finished up the A/C hoses as well. I really prefer the Vintage Air front runner system compared to this March setup Blueprint installs. I tried to make the hoses hide the best I could. For what I payed for this kit I should not complain, LOL.

    0399C2A8-0114-421F-9874-598BFB462091.jpeg2FED6667-C284-4085-AC61-CD4363B6A6E5.jpeg4AA6FCF3-F7E0-4E63-A2E5-F80A5CD5F493.jpeg66EAEA89-5E27-47DE-90A8-6FF03A481972.jpeg50E27EE9-DBD4-4336-AFB3-8588CF6FDA53.jpeg6A3932F2-C23E-410B-9769-F1F56A17C870.jpegC1FF5210-6218-418E-80EF-1570CB9A500A.jpeg

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    So the Gen 2 hinge assembly works fine with the rest of the Gen 1 hinge mount, hood, etc?

    I guess this means that the hood no longer slides back into place and you need to put a latch top/mid firewall?

    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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    It is all different. The hood just pivots up at the back and is held in place at the firewall with the striker. The only Gen-1 parts used are the cable and handle. Just like the 35 P/U. You still use the Gen-1 hood.

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  49. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    It is all different. The hood just pivots up at the back and is held in place at the firewall with the striker. The only Gen-1 parts used are the cable and handle. Just like the 35 P/U. You still use the Gen-1 hood.
    Just the striker/latch in the middle? seems it would wobble/dance around not being secured on the sides.
    -- Mike --
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    TxM Garage

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    I wonder how much it would be to buy just the front hinge? I just finished mine up and what a hunk of junk it is on the gen 1.
    that new setup look much nicer!

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    To answer the last 2 questions. No the hood stays nice and flat all the time. At least up to 100 MPH on my 35, LOL. You must buy the entire Gen-2 setup. Not just the hinges. FFR can price it out for you.

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    I sent an email to FFR last Friday asking about Gen 2 hood hinge price and availability, but haven't received an answer yet. If anyone hears from them, please post the response in this thread. TIA, Keith

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    Ordered mine last week. The front bracket was $298 plus shipping. I did not order the latch yet.

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    Been working on the 33. Not much to show. Mostly wiring and finished up A/C/Heat. Video is a little misleading. It is first start after getting all ECU's programmed and everything tuned properly. Neither Sniper or MSD ECU were programmed. Strange since both supposedly run on dyno before shipping. The 4R70W did not come with very much in the way of info. It took a fair amount of internet surfing to find all the needed stuff to program and wire it. I still need to finish up the wires. I left everything long just to see if all worked OK first. Now I will make it as neat as I can, LOL.


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  56. #36
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    OK for anyone else that buys this Blueprint engine/trans package this car has you will need to buy this yolk for the trans. FFR supplies the standard T-5/AOD driveshaft. The only issue is that for the 4R70W the splines are the same but the outside diameter needs to be 50 thousands larger. Hence the leak I have on the floor. I have been back and forth with FFR and Blueprint on this. The correct part #is a DANA 2-3-14061X. Here is link to Summit.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...061x/overview/


    Last edited by wallace18; 01-07-2020 at 05:49 PM.

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  58. #37

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    I heard from David Correia at FFR this afternoon. He quoted the Gen 2 hood hinge components (34815) at $310 plus shipping. Looks like everything is included, and will require only some minor mods to adapt to my Gen 1 Hot Rod. Thanks to Tom W. for letting us know that this option is available to us Gen 1 builders!
    Keith

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  60. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by progmgr1 View Post
    I heard from David Correia at FFR this afternoon. He quoted the Gen 2 hood hinge components (34815) at $310 plus shipping. Looks like everything is included, and will require only some minor mods to adapt to my Gen 1 Hot Rod. Thanks to Tom W. for letting us know that this option is available to us Gen 1 builders!
    Keith
    Your welcome!

  61. #39
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    It has been a strange few days for sure. First I did get the correct drive shaft yoke and it works great! Not sure why FFR or Blueprint cannot give you the correct one for this combo, Oh well. Next I got the wiring run so I could install the transmission tunnel. Not sure why it was cut up so badly. I ended up fixing the holes with some aluminum. Next I was trying to bleed the brakes. Normally an easy deal for me in the past. It seems I had 2 things fighting me. 1st the Wilwood master was bad and leaked internally. 2nd the previous builder used 6 unions to do the brake lines. I redid the lines and am waiting on a new master . Then I can go-cart.

    1532A160-8438-4910-84A7-D3471F94D619.jpeg3E9AE4CD-4A41-44C6-A6F2-33522DA96955.jpeg

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  63. #40
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    Is this an issue particular to Gen 1 or does that affect Gen 2 also?

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    OK for anyone else that buys this Blueprint engine/trans package this car has you will need to buy this yolk for the trans. FFR supplies the standard T-5/AOD driveshaft. The only issue is that for the 4R70W the splines are the same but the outside diameter needs to be 50 thousands larger. Hence the leak I have on the floor. I have been back and forth with FFR and Blueprint on this. The correct part #is a DANA 2-3-14061X. Here is link to Summit.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...061x/overview/



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