Boig Motorsports

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  50
Likes Likes:  112
Page 6 of 6 FirstFirst ... 456
Results 201 to 237 of 237

Thread: Is a basically stock 302 too little motor? Subsequent build: ITS ALIVE SEE VIDEO

  1. #201
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    I haven't put in my order yet. Mortgage is paid off next spring so thinking maybe late next summer for spring 2023 delivery.

    I'm kind of hoping that by the time I do order that a roadster version of the Speedstar is available.
    Last edited by narly1; 06-11-2021 at 09:31 AM.

  2. Likes 33fromSD liked this post
  3. #202
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    So this the point I'm stuck at now until the EFI system shows up:

    20210628_214850[1].jpg

  4. #203
    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    SoDak
    Posts
    1,127
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by narly1 View Post
    So this the point I'm stuck at now until the EFI system shows up:

    20210628_214850[1].jpg
    That new intake looks outstanding!!

    Jim

  5. Likes narly1 liked this post
  6. #204
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    32
    Post Thanks / Like
    not at all,. even with a mostly stock 302 these cars run in the 12s at the quarter mile. In no way is that " slow" if you want to do a really mild build pop a set of Gt40p heads off an explorer on it, and do a standalone ecu and you will pick up an extra 60-80hp.

  7. Likes narly1 liked this post
  8. #205
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike DiGiorgio View Post
    In no way is that " slow" if you want to do a really mild build....
    LOL, I'm way past that stage Mike. I'm Just waiting now on the Pro Flo 4 system to turn up.

    Earl

  9. #206
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    32
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice! i am still not sure how i feel about the pro-flow system. I feel like one of the most important reasons to go multi port is that you can use a " dry" intake manifold with a single butterfly throttle body. whereas the pro-flow system basically uses a wet manifold with injector bungs. I would be really interested to see how it performs on a 302 compared to a Trick Flow: TFS-51511002 with a standalone ecu.

  10. #207
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mike,

    My understanding is that a single point injection system sprays fuel in at the top of the manifold. Thus a fuel/air mixture is making its way down the manifold runners into the combustion chambers. So I guess one could call it a "wet" system.

    My understanding is that in a multi-port system only air is flowing through the manifold runners up until the point where the injectors squirt some fuel into the flow path. On the Pro Flo 4 manifold this point is just at the 8 intake ports. So I guess you could say that the Pro Flo 4 system is a "dry" not "wet" system.

    The other adavantage of the PF4 over the other systems out there is the fact that the electronics are off board from the engine, away from the heat & vibration and a lot easier to get at from a service perspective.

    There's plenty of feedback out there that says that the PF4 works great with a 302.

    I'm not concerned in the least.

    Earl

  11. #208
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    32
    Post Thanks / Like
    Correct, My inquiry is because a dry manifold can have much longer runners than a wet system. There is no need to have a throttle body top/center in an engine in a dry manifold. Longer runners is a good thing on a street engine. As for electornics off board, a standard Trick flow multi port manifold for a 302 with a stand alone also has this.

    Basically, when i see the pro flow 4, i see a wet flow style manifold being used in a dry flow application. And i feel like if multiport/dry flow is the goal. Why not use the best manifold to work with that?

  12. #209
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike DiGiorgio View Post
    Correct, My inquiry is because a dry manifold can have much longer runners than a wet system. There is no need to have a throttle body top/center in an engine in a dry manifold. Longer runners is a good thing on a street engine. As for electornics off board, a standard Trick flow multi port manifold for a 302 with a stand alone also has this.

    Basically, when i see the pro flow 4, i see a wet flow style manifold being used in a dry flow application. And i feel like if multiport/dry flow is the goal. Why not use the best manifold to work with that?
    I don't know the answer. That would be a good question to ask Edelbrock. I have seen some commentary that a EFIs work best with single plane vs dual plane manifolds, perhaps that along with a more traditional "carb & manifold" appearance is why the design is the way it is?

  13. #210
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Damn just learned today that Edelbrock has pushed out the delivery of the Pro Flo 4 out by another 5-6 weeks to mid- OCTOBER.

  14. #211
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Recall from one of my earlier posts that I had decided to clean and re-use the old oil pump pick-up in my 302. Reason being that it only had 60,000mi on it and the new one that came with the pan did not fit very well (too high up off of the bottom of the pan).
    But after watching an online video on the subject I had second thoughts and ordered a new one. I figured for the $50 (CAD) it wasn't worth taking a chance on a motor that will have almost $15,000 (CAD) into it once I'm done.
    I then decided to peel open the pick-up to see for myself what it might look like inside. The housing itself was clean enough but look at the crap on the backside of the "cap" and the screen. Note that that this was after what I considered to be a thorough cleaning....

    20210827_174636[1].jpg

    20210827_174711[1].jpg

  15. #212
    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    SoDak
    Posts
    1,127
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by narly1 View Post
    Recall from one of my earlier posts that I had decided to clean and re-use the old oil pump pick-up in my 302. Reason being that it only had 60,000mi on it and the new one that came with the pan did not fit very well (too high up off of the bottom of the pan).
    But after watching an online video on the subject I had second thoughts and ordered a new one. I figured for the $50 (CAD) it wasn't worth taking a chance on a motor that will have almost $15,000 (CAD) into it once I'm done.
    I then decided to peel open the pick-up to see for myself what it might look like inside. The housing itself was clean enough but look at the crap on the backside of the "cap" and the screen. Note that that this was after what I considered to be a thorough cleaning....

    20210827_174636[1].jpg

    20210827_174711[1].jpg
    Good call Earl

    Personally, I never reuse the old oil pump whether it has 1K, 5K or 50K miles on it. They are cheap enough for new one and provides a piece of mind on all the hard work that goes into an engine.

    My rule of thumb on engine rebuilds is unless I can easily get to it after the engine is installed in the car, it's getting replaced, price isn't even a consideration if you factor in the PITA it is to have to pull the engine and replace a part that was reused and then reinstall everything.

    Any updates on the rest of your parts you're waiting on?

    Jim

  16. #213
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by 33fromSD View Post

    Any updates on the rest of your parts you're waiting on?

    Jim
    Sigh, 1st-2nd week of Sept or middle of Oct depending on what info is accurate.

    Farting around with a few things in an effort to keep my mind off of the delivery delays but damn it's hard.

    I've pieced together everything needed for the fuel delivery system, AN fittings, hose, pre & post pump filters, pump, regulator, pump control relay.

    Run stand is almost all done, just waiting on a couple of 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 adapters to come from China for that.

  17. #214
    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    SoDak
    Posts
    1,127
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by narly1 View Post
    Sigh, 1st-2nd week of Sept or middle of Oct depending on what info is accurate.

    Farting around with a few things in an effort to keep my mind off of the delivery delays but damn it's hard.

    I've pieced together everything needed for the fuel delivery system, AN fittings, hose, pre & post pump filters, pump, regulator, pump control relay.

    Run stand is almost all done, just waiting on a couple of 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 adapters to come from China for that.
    Should be worth the wait, but I know it's tough.

    Jim

  18. Likes narly1 liked this post
  19. #215
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    So true to form on the day my order was supposed to ship from Summit I received an e-mail update from them that it will not ship until mid-Oct. You can't convince me that someone at Edelbrock or Summit didn't know of this delay before today.

  20. #216
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    So a couple of days ago I get an e-mail alert from Edelbrock that their 35930 system is back in stock and shipping. So I check with Summit and sure enough they have inventory. Note that this is the same system as the one I have on order (PN# 359300) except with the inclusion of an Android tablet and its ~ $100 more.

    So I asked Summit if they could pull the tablet out of the box and fulfill my order as is, but no can do.

    So I guess I will be offering up an Android tablet on FB Marketplace shortly.

    Oh, and BTW the 359300 is on backorder until Dec 20th....how messed up is that?

    Earl

  21. #217
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    After waiting patiently for the past 6 months this EFI system is finally on its way to me. Its the last major component I've been waiting on to finish my engine build.
    To say that I'm excited is an understatement!

    359300 resized.jpg

  22. Likes 33fromSD liked this post
  23. #218
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    So tonight we are leak testing the radiator on the run stand. The inlet and outlet hoses are two different sizes, 1-1/2"and 1-3/4".
    So how to join them up? I found a hose adapter online meant for use when doing an LS swap. The cool thing is that they have a 1/8" NPT hole between the barbed ends. I found a Schrader (car tire) air fitting that would screw right in. So by joining the two hoses together I'm able to pressurize the rad. I took it up to ~20 PSI, so far no drips, especially around the transmission cooler fittings....recall one was missing from the rad when I got it. (What do you expect for a FB Marketplace $20 special, LOL).
    The other cool thing about these adapters is that I need a really long lower hose as the rad is "backwards" in terms of where the lower hose inlet needs to be. No biggie I just bought two of the 1-3/4" hoses and a second hose adapter. The plan is to join the two hoses together to make one long one by using a short length of 1-1/2" hose between the two adapters...

    20210927_213238[1].jpg

    OK so 2 hours later no drips or puddles on the floor and a definite "phfffft" when I opened the cap.
    So topped it off with more water and will check in the AM to see if it drops down any.

  24. Likes 33fromSD liked this post
  25. #219
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Getting closer. Lokar throttle cable bracket installed. PCV and breather hoses plumbed in. Drilling a hole in the bottom of a brand new air cleaner housing to accept a barb fitting was not my idea of a good time. Cobraearl style thermostat housing right angle adapter and filler neck installed with a new Fel-pro gasket and aviation gasket sealer on both sides. Need to switch out the hex head bolts holding the right angle adapter for allen socket head types as there is not much room there. Waiting on another pipe plug to block off the spare water temperature sensor location in the manifold. Manifold is sitting on locating dowels made from 4 long bolts with their heads cut off. That way I can drop it onto the heads and block valley without having to shift it around and mess up the wet silicone beads on the front and rear china walls.
    Figure it will be sometime next weekend before I have the finished engine mounted on the stand and ready to run.

    20210930_230753[1].jpg
    Last edited by narly1; 09-30-2021 at 10:29 PM.

  26. Likes 33fromSD liked this post
  27. #220
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Once again the devil is in the details.

    So I prepped and installed the intake gaskets and tried bolting the fuel injection manifold down last night.

    I couldn't get the bolts to come up to torque, they were "relaxing" between torquing steps.

    This started to scare me as I was afraid that the threads in the aluminum cylinder heads were starting to let go. So I stopped and did some checking. The mounting holes are 2.5" deep but my bolts are only 2" long. So my set-up was missing out on "grabbing" an additional 1/2" of threading in the heads. I'm hoping it was just the bolts stretching, as (I am guessing) only 1/2" or so of the bolts were going into the head threads.

    So now we wait for proper studs to arrive that will allow me to take advantage of the entire length of threading in the heads.

  28. #221
    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    SoDak
    Posts
    1,127
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by narly1 View Post
    Once again the devil is in the details.

    So I prepped and installed the intake gaskets and tried bolting the fuel injection manifold down last night.

    I couldn't get the bolts to come up to torque, they were "relaxing" between torquing steps.

    This started to scare me as I was afraid that the threads in the aluminum cylinder heads were starting to let go. So I stopped and did some checking. The mounting holes are 2.5" deep but my bolts are only 2" long. So my set-up was missing out on "grabbing" an additional 1/2" of threading in the heads. I'm hoping it was just the bolts stretching, as (I am guessing) only 1/2" or so of the bolts were going into the head threads.

    So now we wait for proper studs to arrive that will allow me to take advantage of the entire length of threading in the heads.
    If you used any type of silicon around the water passages or the ends of the manifold that could have been settling as you torque, but I agree, go with the longer bolts, especially on aluminum head.

    Jim

  29. #222
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by 33fromSD View Post
    If you used any type of silicon around the water passages or the ends of the manifold that could have been settling as you torque,

    Jim
    I don't think that was the case as the "relaxing" happened about 4 times at the 15 ft-lb level. That and there was one bolt where the torque actually started to go down (YIKES!) as I tried tightening it. When I replaced it with a longer bolt that I had kicking around I was able to get it to go above 15 ft-lbs and up to 20 ft-lbs. Per Edelbrock the spec is 23-25 ft-lbs. Rather than press my luck I left everything at 15 ft-lbs and things can stay that way until I change them out for the new studs.

    Earl

  30. Likes 33fromSD liked this post
  31. #223
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    The last piece of the puzzle needed showed up today; new manifold studs. The bolts that came with my hardware kit were on the short side and as a result they wouldn't tighten past ~15 ft-lbs. The few threads in the aluminum heads that the bolts were grabbing on were starting to let go. The new stainless steel studs engage with all the threads in the heads and as a result I was able to get up to 20 ft-lbs which I feel is a reasonable torque value.
    Next stop is the run stand. S**t is getting real! (LOL)

    20211018_224516[1].jpg

  32. Likes 33fromSD liked this post
  33. #224
    Senior Member J R Jones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    SE WI Kettle Moraine
    Posts
    1,156
    Post Thanks / Like
    Conventional design criteria is 1.5 diameters of thread engagement of a fastener in steel/cast iron. Two diameters or more in aluminum. So a .5 diameter bolt needs .75 inch thread engagement.
    Respecting fastener grade is critical. SAE requires grade five or better for automotive application.
    A fastener s expected to stretch as it is torqued putting a load on the joint that will sustain through load and thermal cycles.
    A poor fastener can yield during torque and feel soft, as if it is striping. Stop and remove the faster before it breaks. If you examine the threads you may notice that the thread pitch has changed where the bolt stretched. The threads are the smallest cross section so that is the area the bolt stretches and can yield.
    jim

  34. Likes narly1 liked this post
  35. #225
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Jim for the detailed technical info.

    My intuitive seat of the pants diagnosis went like this:

    I took out one fastener and made some measurements as to how deep the hole was and the depth at which the threads started down in the hole. I then compared that to the length of the bolt and how far the threads went up the bolt. Based on this I maybe had only a 1/4 to 1/2" or so of thread engagement. I can't tell you why but this seemed like too short an engagement length given what I was observing and my gut instinct (Maybe past experience kicking in?). I then confirmed my theory by putting in a different fastener with a known, calculated longer thread engagement in and observed that I could achieve a higher torque value.

    And that's where I stopped until the new studs turned up. I decided to go with studs so I could take advantage of all the threading available in the heads. Not very scientific, but practical and methodical.

  36. #226
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Unlike TV shows it takes more than a hour to get things done. Lots of "shade tree engineering" over the last week of evenings and today to get the engine moved over from the build stand to its new home on the run stand.

    One of the first issues was the interference between the legs on the hoist and the two stands. I wanted to make sure that I didn't have to reach out over the end of the stand legs and have everything tip over.

    So in looking at things I realized that if the stands could move over top of the hoist legs I'd be golden. But how to do that? It turned out that the solution was simple. The hoist legs ride on casters and telescope out of the main frame. So I pulled them out, rotated them 90 degrees allowing the legs to sit flat on floor....problem solved!

    The adjustable stanchions on the run stand worked great. Quite a bit of messing around with the rear part of the stand though to get it fitted right.

    It's not pretty but it will work fine as the third mounting/levelling point for the bell housing which serves as the engine to stand adapter, flex plate guard and starter mount.

    All in all a successful transfer with no moments where I thought anything would be damaged or I would get hurt by things dropping. ��

    Alternator and fan belt are back on (they had to come off to clear lifting chains).

    My throttle lever/cable linkage is connected and works, it doesn't go all the way to full, but close enough for now.

    Rad hoses are hooked up. The swivel fitting on the upper made that part really easy. The two hoses joined together are long enough for the lower.

    I thought that I might have some significant imbalance such that the whole apple cart might want to tip onto its nose but it seems to not be an issue. All the same I'm going to block it up at the front somehow just to be safe.

    Still lots to do before first run-up, but its getting close.

    20211023_220652[1].jpg

  37. Likes 33fromSD liked this post
  38. #227
    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    SoDak
    Posts
    1,127
    Post Thanks / Like
    When I did a 302 for my 67 mustang a few years back, I did the lower half of the engine on the engine stand so I could spin the block, and once that portion was done (including oil pan) I moved the block over to the engine run stand and assembled the rest of the engine on the run stand. Worked out really nice and attaching the short block to the run stand with nothing else on the block was breeze.

    Not sure what type of engine stand or hoist you have, but I had no problems getting my hoist legs to clear the engine stand.

    Jim
    33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread

  39. #228
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    The build stand has a 3 caster T style base but that wasn't the problem. The run stand is based on a more stable 4 caster U style base and sure enough the leg spacing of it and my hoist were the exact same. With the hoist legs all the way out I couldn't push the stand far enough into the inside of the V to be safe. Similarly with hoist legs all the way in the V was too wide for the engine stand to straddle them. But I made it work, just some head scratching, that's all, LOL.

    FYI run stand is a Power Fist Brand from Princess Auto, the Canuck equivalent of Harbour Freight.

    Earl

  40. Likes 33fromSD liked this post
  41. #229
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just a few tricks over the weekend and one huge treat tonight.

    Frankenstein's monster is alive!


  42. Likes 33fromSD, HVACMAN liked this post
  43. #230
    Senior Member 33fromSD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    SoDak
    Posts
    1,127
    Post Thanks / Like
    Sound Nice. did you do a break in as well?

    Jim
    33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread

  44. Thanks narly1 thanked for this post
  45. #231
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by 33fromSD View Post
    Sound Nice. did you do a break in as well?

    Jim
    No, not per se. The one thing I learned through this process is that true break-in only occurs when an engine is under load. So in the absence of a dyno or car to put the engine in, all you're really doing are the very first steps: checking for leaks or any other odd behaviour, setting timing, idle speed etc.

    It all feels a bit anti-climactic at this point. I just have to keep reminding myself though of how huge it is to just get the engine to this stage, especially given that it's my first build ever.
    Last edited by narly1; 11-04-2021 at 10:03 AM.

  46. Likes 33fromSD liked this post
  47. #232
    Senior Member johnnybgoode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ottawa Ontario
    Posts
    254
    Post Thanks / Like
    Sounds great! Congrats. Scott
    FFR #3870 MK II, Spectra Blue/Arctic White, 1974 414W, 10:1, Eagle 4340 crank and rods, KB Pistons, Ported Performer RPM 2.02 heads & intake, QFT SS-650, Comp XR282HR, Quality Roadsters pan, Crane ignition, TKO600, 3.55 gears, 3 link, SA QA1's, Breeze LCA's, Heim joints & VPM F/R bars, Power steering with Hiedts valve, Power brakes, Fortes bump steer kit, 5 bolt axels, SSBC rear brakes, Oil cooler, Pusher fans, Halibrand Cobra III's with Nitto NT555 G2 245/285/17

  48. Thanks narly1 thanked for this post
  49. #233
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Some of the "tricks" over the past couple of days before getting to the "treat".

    Pipe flange on the passenger side header that I scrounged needed to have some material ground off of it to clear the starter.

    The electric fuel pump is a "push-only" type and thus the fuel tank outlet has to be located above the pump inlet.

    Setting regulator pressure to 43 PSI as required by the EFI is a must. I had it too low and the engine would starve for fuel off of idle and die.

    Braided stainless steel sleeved line is a pain to use with AN fittings.

    Getting the fuel delivery component chain (pre-filter - pump - post filter - regulator) leak tight was a pain.

    Drilling a second hole in the bottom of the air cleaner for the EFI air temp sensor was not a fun time.

    Earl

  50. #234
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    OK so tonight I was messing around with the IAC setting and got that to a nice average (per Edelbrock manual) reading of ~10. It seems a little counter-intuitive but you have to bring up the idle RPMs with the throttle stop screw to give the IAC enough RPMs to throttle back against if you get my meaning.

    So some first nervous RPM pulls, I've had it up as high as 3500 so far and it's staying together.

  51. Likes GoDadGo, HVACMAN liked this post
  52. #235
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    Should I take it any higher RPM-wise or call the exercise good for now until it finally gets dropped into its new home.

    Note that this is a no-load situation with just a flywheel bolted to the end of the crank and bear in mind that I'm standing right beside the thing when it's running.

    Earl

  53. #236
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    I was concerned that (in my opinion) the noise coming from the valve train was a bit excessive.

    Ended up adding another 1/2 turn of preload to the lifters. This seems to have quieted things down a bit but not to where I think it should be.

    Some other factors:

    1. I have learned that my chosen cam profile closes (slams?) the exhaust shut pretty aggressively and thus tends to be noisier than average.

    2. Still running the 5W20 break-in oil. Going to leave that in it for now but suspect that going to thicker 10W30 will help quiet things down some more.

    So after making the changes I took the opportunity to rev it up a little higher. Made it to 4500 before I called it a day.

    I've temporarily drained the oil out so I could take the filter apart for inspection.

    In the process of doing so I've noticed that I have a small oil leak.

    It looks like it's coming from the oil pan rail on the one side. My theory is that the higher RPMS causes the oil to splash around a lot more inside the block.

    EDIT: So did some research into "oil leakage at high RPM" and it looks like I might have to do some tweaking on my adjustable PCV valve.

    So another little thing to fix, and an example of why I chose to run the engine on a stand first instead of in the car.

    Earl
    Last edited by narly1; 11-27-2021 at 07:14 PM.

  54. #237
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Erin, Ontario CANADA
    Posts
    900
    Post Thanks / Like
    OK, so I cut the filter can open and found the odd shiny fleck (too small to be chips or chunks) of metal. Interestingly there seemed to be more of what looked like lint in the folds than anything....maybe from all the rags I used?

    I also tossed a small but strong magnet into the drained oil, and swirled it around. I came out as clean as it went in.

    So overall it looks like nothing is grinding up inside.

Page 6 of 6 FirstFirst ... 456

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Replica Parts

Visit our community sponsor