Is a basically stock 302 too little motor? Subsequent build: ITS ALIVE SEE VIDEO

[MPTech]

You can also get some of the tools you mentioned (ie: harmonic balance puller, maybe others) from Auto-Zone for free, part of the tool lender program. I also did this to pull the PS pulley too.

[narly1]

You can also get some of the tools you mentioned (ie: harmonic balance puller, maybe others) from Auto-Zone for free, part of the tool lender program. I also did this to pull the PS pulley too.

LOL Tools to me are like shoes to my wife....you can never have enough, LOL.

[narly1]

OK so machine shop says bores are about 4.006 to 4.007 at the top so a rebore is required. Going with .020" which is the minimum step up in terms of oversize pistons.

Going with Silv-O-Lite 3101HC's.

Crank is mint and only requires a polish.

Rods are fine, just changing out the stock bolts with new ones from ARP.

[narly1]

I just recently got my engine back from the machine shop.

Let's see how far I get over the next few days with this list I made for myself LOL.
Let me know if you see any steps that are missing.

FORD 302 ENGINE ASSEMBLY STEPS

Parts preparation and pre-assembly checks/measurements:

1. Cosmoline coat block, crankshaft, and piston/rod assemblies.
2. Close visual inspection of block, crankshaft, and piston/rod assemblies.
3. Chase and clean all tapped holes (block and crankshaft)
4. Strip off blue block paint.
5. Thorough wash, clean, blow-out with air. Dry block and crankshaft.
6. Coat crankshaft with WD-40
7. Mask and re-paint block black.
8. Coat unpainted block surfaces with WD-40
9. Double-check crankshaft oiling holes for cleanliness. Re-clean as required using nylon soda straw brush.
10. Install main bearings in block.
11. Check crankshaft to main bearing clearance using mechanical gauge and plastigauge techniques. Record measurements.
12. Check crankshaft and block oiling hole alignments using grease technique.
13. Clean grease off of crankshaft and main bearings, re-install with light oiling.
14. Install main caps, bolts lightly tightened (but not torqued).
Turn crankshaft by hand, check for smoothness.
15. Install rod bearings into one piston/rod assembly (without piston rings installed).
16. Pre-measure crankshaft journal and rod bearing dimensions to ensure that there is sufficient clearance for them to freely move.
17. Oil cylinder bore and piston/rod assembly and install into block and onto crankshaft. Rod bolts lightly tightened, (but not torqued).
18. Rotating crankshaft by hand, use a dial indicator to determine TDC. Then check piston to deck clearance/height. Record measurement.
19. Uninstall piston/rod assembly from block.
20. Clean oil off of crankshaft, piston/rod assembly and bearings.
Spray crankshaft with WD-40 if not re-installing immediately and set aside. Wash and dry main bearings and rod bearing and set aside. Re-coat rod big end of piston/rod assembly with Cosmoline. Set aside.


Camshaft-main bearings-rear main seal-crankshaft installation and assembly:

1. Deburr edges of camshaft lobes as necessary with fine jeweller's file. Wash, clean, and air blow dry. Spray with WD-40.
2. Pre-lube cam bearings
3. Lube and install camshaft taking care not to nick cam bearings during installation. Check camshaft for smooth rotation in block.
4. Install camshaft retainer. Assembly lube on back side of retainer. Loctite and torque bolts 10 ft-lbs.
5. Clean mains area of block once again with brake cleaner.
6. Install main bearings. They go in with the block side dry. Coat journal side with assembly lube.
7. Spotlessly clean crankshaft with brake cleaner.
8. Install crankshaft into block. Without main caps installed end play should be .004-.009” Record measurement.
9. Install rear main seal. Aviation gasket sealer on metal skirt.
10. Install rear main cap. Watch rear main seal for unwanted deformation and misalignment while tightening down rear main cap. Torque to spec 70 ft-lbs. Clean excessive gasket sealer off of block and main cap. Turn crank by hand to check for ease of rotation and smoothness.
11. Install first, second and fourth main caps. Torque to spec 70 ft-lbs. With each successive main cap installation turn crank by hand to check for ease of rotation and smoothness.
12. Install #3 main cap (with thrust bearing) last. Before tightening #3 cap push the crank forward to square the thrust bearing surface and main cap to the crank. Torque to spec 70 ft-lbs.
13. Check crankshaft end play again after torquing #3 main cap. Should be .004-.008” Record measurement.

[33fromSD]

I just recently got my engine back from the machine shop.

Let's see how far I get over the next few days with this list I made for myself LOL.
Let me know if you see any steps that are missing.

FORD 302 ENGINE ASSEMBLY STEPS

Parts preparation and pre-assembly checks/measurements:

1. Cosmoline coat block, crankshaft, and piston/rod assemblies.
2. Close visual inspection of block, crankshaft, and piston/rod assemblies.
3. Chase and clean all tapped holes (block and crankshaft)
4. Strip off blue block paint.
5. Thorough wash, clean, blow-out with air. Dry block and crankshaft.
6. Coat crankshaft with WD-40
7. Mask and re-paint block black.
8. Coat unpainted block surfaces with WD-40
9. Double-check crankshaft oiling holes for cleanliness. Re-clean as required using nylon soda straw brush.
10. Install main bearings in block.
11. Check crankshaft to main bearing clearance using mechanical gauge and plastigauge techniques. Record measurements.
12. Check crankshaft and block oiling hole alignments using grease technique.
13. Clean grease off of crankshaft and main bearings, re-install with light oiling.
14. Install main caps, bolts lightly tightened (but not torqued).
Turn crankshaft by hand, check for smoothness.
15. Install rod bearings into one piston/rod assembly (without piston rings installed).
16. Pre-measure crankshaft journal and rod bearing dimensions to ensure that there is sufficient clearance for them to freely move.
17. Oil cylinder bore and piston/rod assembly and install into block and onto crankshaft. Rod bolts lightly tightened, (but not torqued).
18. Rotating crankshaft by hand, use a dial indicator to determine TDC. Then check piston to deck clearance/height. Record measurement.
19. Uninstall piston/rod assembly from block.
20. Clean oil off of crankshaft, piston/rod assembly and bearings.
Spray crankshaft with WD-40 if not re-installing immediately and set aside. Wash and dry main bearings and rod bearing and set aside. Re-coat rod big end of piston/rod assembly with Cosmoline. Set aside.


Camshaft-main bearings-rear main seal-crankshaft installation and assembly:

1. Deburr edges of camshaft lobes as necessary with fine jeweller's file. Wash, clean, and air blow dry. Spray with WD-40.
2. Pre-lube cam bearings
3. Lube and install camshaft taking care not to nick cam bearings during installation. Check camshaft for smooth rotation in block.
4. Install camshaft retainer. Assembly lube on back side of retainer. Loctite and torque bolts 10 ft-lbs.
5. Clean mains area of block once again with brake cleaner.
6. Install main bearings. They go in with the block side dry. Coat journal side with assembly lube.
7. Spotlessly clean crankshaft with brake cleaner.
8. Install crankshaft into block. Without main caps installed end play should be .004-.009” Record measurement.
9. Install rear main seal. Aviation gasket sealer on metal skirt.
10. Install rear main cap. Watch rear main seal for unwanted deformation and misalignment while tightening down rear main cap. Torque to spec 70 ft-lbs. Clean excessive gasket sealer off of block and main cap. Turn crank by hand to check for ease of rotation and smoothness.
11. Install first, second and fourth main caps. Torque to spec 70 ft-lbs. With each successive main cap installation turn crank by hand to check for ease of rotation and smoothness.
12. Install #3 main cap (with thrust bearing) last. Before tightening #3 cap push the crank forward to square the thrust bearing surface and main cap to the crank. Torque to spec 70 ft-lbs.
13. Check crankshaft end play again after torquing #3 main cap. Should be .004-.008” Record measurement.

I may have missed it in your short list but be sure to check / clean the oil galleys...lots of junk can sit in these even after the machine shop does their magic.

[narly1]

I may have missed it in your short list but be sure to check / clean the oil galleys...lots of junk can sit in these even after the machine shop does their magic.

For sure will do. Thanks for pointing that out. When I'm done cleaning everything you'll be able to eat off of it LOL.

The m/c shop bagged everything once they were done. I was surprised to see a small amount of what looks like sandblasting grit in the bottom of the bag. I'm thinking that it must have shaken out of the cooling passages on the way home.

[GWL]

LOL Tools to me are like shoes to my wife....you can never have enough, LOL.

And neither of us can understand the other.

George

[junglejim]

Narly1, I was just reading your thread, and saw where you posted that your rod bearings show a lot of clearance near the parting line. Fear not, for this is normal. The bearing manufacturers learned long ago that this is necessary, because inertia loads on the con rod, and to a lesser degree, the mains, tend to oval the housing bore. If more clearance is not engineered into these areas, the bearing edge will in effect squeegee the oil off of the crankshaft. Your oil clearance is measured at 90 degrees from the bearing parting lines. Hope this helps ease your mind.
Another important measurement tip is the pistons. Clearance is measured at 90 degrees from pin bore, and typically at, or just below pin centerline, depending on design. The reason being that pistons are built with a cam and barrel profile to allow for expansion.

[jeremustang]

Narly1, I did an identical 5.0 rebuild about 15 years ago, and here are some tips I learned along the way when I got the block back:

- immediately coat the bores with WD-40 after cleaning. They will rust almost instantly once dried off
- Get a 1/4" NPT tap and tap all the oil gallery holes for screw-in gallery plugs. It's cheap insurance. On my build, one of the plugs popped out after only 5-10 miles and I found it in the oil pan later(along with very low oil pressure). It's a one time opportunity and very cheap insurance.
- Before installing pistons, wipe the bores down with ATF. It cleans the dirt off AND lubricates the bores before assembly. Keep wiping with rags and ATF until the rags no longer look dirty.
- Don't forget to put short sections of fuel hose on the rod bolts when you push the pistons/rods into the block. Keeps the crank from getting damaged.

Have fun! Sounds like a great project!

[narly1]

Narly1, I was just reading your thread, and saw where you posted that your rod bearings show a lot of clearance near the parting line....

Thanks, those were the old parts measured during disassembly but definitely good to know. All new bearings and pistons are going in but like they say trust no one!

[narly1]

Narly1, I did an identical 5.0 rebuild about 15 years ago, and here are some tips I learned along the way when I got the block back:

- immediately coat the bores with WD-40 after cleaning. They will rust almost instantly once dried off
- Get a 1/4" NPT tap and tap all the oil gallery holes for screw-in gallery plugs. It's cheap insurance. On my build, one of the plugs popped out after only 5-10 miles and I found it in the oil pan later(along with very low oil pressure). It's a one time opportunity and very cheap insurance.
- Before installing pistons, wipe the bores down with ATF. It cleans the dirt off AND lubricates the bores before assembly. Keep wiping with rags and ATF until the rags no longer look dirty.
- Don't forget to put short sections of fuel hose on the rod bolts when you push the pistons/rods into the block. Keeps the crank from getting damaged.

Have fun! Sounds like a great project!

Thanks!

- The bores were pretty pristine when I got everything home. I knew it would be a few weeks before I would be getting to it so I sprayed everything with Maxxima chain wax which is very much like Cosmoline.
- When you say oil galley plugs do you meant two near the cam retainer plate?
- I've heard of the ATF trick and will use it when I finally get to that stage (That will go on a third list for another day LOL).
- Same with the rod bolt protection.

I've already learned so much and I'm really enjoying myself.

Lots of guys post about the excitement of go-kart day. I have an earlier milestone than that to look forward to: firing up my engine for the first time on a stand before it ever goes near a chassis!

[jeremustang]

- When you say oil galley plugs do you meant two near the cam retainer plate?

Yes, IIRC there are 3 plugs around the cam in the front, and also 3 around the cam in the back of the block. There's also a big plug in the back of the lifter valley, but I always left that as a press in plug.

[narly1]

Yes, IIRC there are 3 plugs around the cam in the front, and also 3 around the cam in the back of the block. There's also a big plug in the back of the lifter valley, but I always left that as a press in plug.

I just took a look and the 3 in back have threaded in plugs but the 3 in front around the cam are press-in style. And of course the one big one at the back of the lifter valley is still a press-in.

So one more step to add to the list LOL.

[junglejim]

The three plugs in the rear of the block are always threaded. the three in the front are not threaded in production. If you use the push in plugs, stake the edges after installation with a dull chisel. This closes the bore in front of the plug, reducing the chance of blowing them out with oil pressure. Tapping the bores and using screw in plugs is a much better way to seal the galley. The 3/4" plug in the lifter valley is covering a junction joining left to right side oil passages and is too shallow to effectively tap for screw in plug. If removed(as it should be during cleaning), it should be pressed in with hardening sealer & staked after assembly. If you look closely at the rim of the bore you'll see small eyebrow looking depressions around the bore where the plug was staked in during initial assembly.
I worked for 20 years as an automotive machinist, & have machined & built over 400 engines from single cylinder to earth movers.

[narly1]

The three plugs in the rear of the block are always threaded....

Thanks for the extra info and clarification.

I checked my block this afternoon and I can confirm what you are saying about the back 3 already being threaded. Also the front 3 are definitely press-in type. I haven't taken a close look to see if my m/c shop staked them in place or not.

Either way it doesn't matter, they're coming out and being replaced by threaded ones.

On a side note, what's the easiest way to get those little plugs out?

I am thinking of drilling a hole into the center of each one and running an appropriate sized screw into the hole. I would then grab onto the screw with a slide hammer/bearing popper tool that I have and pop the plugs out.

How does that sound? Of course I'll use a stop on the drill bit and and only run the screw in a few turns as I don't want to damage anything located behind the plugs (especially the lifter bore behind the one plug on the driver's side).

[junglejim]

the easiest way to get them out is to unscrew the three in the rear & use a long rod to knock the front plugs out from behind. Fords were usually square ended plugs in the rear, but later on went to socket hex. The plugs are usually very tight, and need to be heated with a torch until they begin to smoke. If you choose to puncture the front plugs and pull them out with a lag bolt, the rears should still come out to thoroughly clean the galley. The reason I noted that they were changed to socket hex is because it's easy to round them out trying to remove them if you don't heat them. You won't hurt the lifter bore drilling through the plug, it runs the entire length of the block, at least the two outers do.

[narly1]

the easiest way....

Thanks for the tip. I'll grab a length of rod stock while I'm out tap shopping tomorrow.

The M/C shop replaced the 3 the back with socket head type plugs. Seeing as they were just installed I would hope that they would come out easy.

Before the block went to the M/C shop I took the old plugs out myself. Surprisingly they came out no problem. I used a 3/8" extension backwards on the square lug on the plug and a socket and long bar as I recall...

[narly1]

The M/C shop replaced the 3 the back with socket head type plugs. Seeing as they were just installed I would hope that they would come out easy.....

Wrong-O.

Man those plugs are in so tight that I snapped off the 1/4" hex driver I was using on them in conjunction with a 24" breaker bar...it broke something alright, LOL.

So I guess the next step is to add some heat to loosen things up. My question re doing that is "Will I mess up the seal on the bigger plug they are all close to?".

[jeremustang]

A little heat probably won't hurt anything. The next step is usually the hex plug getting stripped as you try to turn it. If that happens, I've always had good luck hammering in a torx bit that is a little bit bigger than the hex plug. It sort of "grabs" the plug to prevent it from stripping further and will turn it out.

[junglejim]

The plugs were (or at least should have been) installed with sealer, maybe Loctite. If you heat them just until they smoke you shouldn't bother the cam galley plug. If that makes you nervous, the idea of driving a slightly larger torx bit in the plug is something that has worked for me numerous times. as it goes in it stretches the plug slightly loosening it from the sides.

[narly1]

Well, I got 'em out. Yes there was sealer on them. I used my propane torch which was just enough heat to soften the sealer up. That and a cold shock of WD40. Probably no where near enough heat to disturb the cam galley plug. The hexes on the plugs look a little beat up...so out they go.

Thanks for all the advice guys!

[33fromSD]

Well, I got 'em out. Yes there was sealer on them. I used my propane torch which was just enough heat to soften the sealer up. That and a cold shock of WD40. Probably no where near enough heat to disturb the cam galley plug. The hexes on the plugs look a little beat up...so out they go.

Thanks for all the advice guys!

If I had to guess I would say it was more thread locker than sealer. Machine shops normally put thread locker on these so they don't vibrate out. Glad you got them out.

[narly1]

The sealant itself was white, not red or blue as one would expect for Loctite.

[33fromSD]

Probably just a white thread sealer.

[junglejim]

It's probably PTFE pipe sealant paste. Quick tip: If you need something like Loctite, but don't have any on hand, this stuff works great.

[narly1]

Knocking the press-in plugs out from behind with a length of 3/8" rod stock was a piece of cake. Tapping the holes went fairly easy as well. For the one that's located behind the cam retainer plate I made sure that I went deep enough with the threads so that the top of the pipe plug sits below the surface a bit. I wanted to make sure that it didn't interfere with the retainer plate's ability to sit flat.

OK now back to finishing the tapping and cleaning of all the threaded holes.

[narly1]

Attention to detail is everything. Crisis averted. In the process of chasing out all the threaded holes on my block today I learned that the holes for the lifter spider hold down bolts are in fact NOT blind and that the OD of the 2nd and 4th cam bearings are at bottom of the hole.

Had I run my tap down without checking first I could have easily damaged a couple of cam bearings!

[Bronco Mike]

Do you have a copy of Tom Monroe’s book, “How to Rebuild Ford Small Block Engines”? I highly recommend it.

[narly1]

I do. It was one of the first things I purchased before embarking on this adventure.

[narly1]

OK, so off with the Ford blue the M/C shop used and a fresh coat of black enamel. In between I went through all the bores with a set of stainless steel brushes, then a good hour of pressure washing and scrubbing followed by a thorough drying out using air and heat guns.

One last step before I replaced the oil galley plugs, I pulled a cloth rag soaked in brake cleaner through the bores. They were surprisingly dirty even though they got the brush treatment earlier. See pictures.

Finally installed the new plugs with fresh sealant.

All done for the weekend now and happy with my progress.

20201018_204134[1].jpg20201018_204147[1].jpg20201018_204119[1].jpg20201018_205559[1].jpg

[narly1]

Yes those are my old undies and no they weren't stained like that to begin with LOL.

For those who are keeping track I'm now at step# 10 on my list.

[33fromSD]

OK, so off with the Ford blue the M/C shop used and a fresh coat of black enamel. In between I went through all the bores with a set of stainless steel brushes, then a good hour of pressure washing and scrubbing followed by a thorough drying out using air and heat guns.

One last step before I replaced the oil galley plugs, I pulled a cloth rag soaked in brake cleaner through the bores. They were surprisingly dirty even though they got the brush treatment earlier. See pictures.

Finally installed the new plugs with fresh sealant.

All done for the weekend now and happy with my progress.

20201018_204134[1].jpg20201018_204147[1].jpg20201018_204119[1].jpg20201018_205559[1].jpg

Just checking....in the first pic, is that a scratch on the outer cam bearing surface?

[narly1]

Thanks for keeping a close eye on my work!

I just went out to the garage and checked. What you are seeing must have been a piece of lint from the galley cleaning rags. Either that or a reflection?

The cam bearing is in perfect condition.

[33fromSD]

Cool...just checking...I know after putting so much effort into this that would really suck to see that. Although, if you had to pick a cam bearing to replace that would be the easiest.

[narly1]

True that. Never having installed cam bearings (don't have the tool nor the experience).

Just curious, say the 5th one was bad.

Can you take out the rear plug and get at it for removal from the back side?

[33fromSD]

True that. Never having installed cam bearings (don't have the tool nor the experience).

Just curious, say the 5th one was bad.

Can you take out the rear plug and get at it for removal from the back side?

Yeah, you can...it's 2 - 4 that are tricky

[junglejim]

Just to satisfy the curiosity, the cam bearings are surprisingly easy to replace. Believe it or not, the end ones are a little trickier, because it's easy to **** them when installing. My normal procedure is to install either end one from the inside, going all the way through the block with the tool. The centering cone supplied with the tool holds the rod in alignment for you that way. Years & years of installing cam bearings & freeze plugs!
If any of you brave souls is intent on trying, just remember, preparation is everything. Rub the bores with 320 emery cloth just until shiny first & lightly oil the housing bore & bearing. Oh, & be sure to line up the oil supply holes properly. Chryslers have three on bearings 2 & 5 most Fords have two on the number one.
If anybody has a small block Chevy, there is 3 different diameters used, number one being the largest (also two holes, don't know why, one of them doesn't line up with anything)
then 2&5 are 10 thousandths smaller in outside diameter, then 3&4 are 10 thousandths smaller in outside diameter than 2&5. All are the same inside diameter. The housing bores are grooved, so the oil hole in the bearing isn't picky. I put the hole at 4 oclock as viewed from the front with the block upright so that cam rotation will roll the oil under. I think if you position the holes at the top they just leak a lot more oil, since the valve train tends to push the cam downward.

[narly1]

I managed to find some pipe cleaners and a set of tiny bottle brushes at our local dollar store this afternoon, so step #11 on my list got completed tonight. I would eat off of this thing if it wasn't for the final wipe down with WD-40 to keep it from rusting.

screenshot.png

[33fromSD]

Just to satisfy the curiosity, the cam bearings are surprisingly easy to replace. Believe it or not, the end ones are a little trickier, because it's easy to **** them when installing. My normal procedure is to install either end one from the inside, going all the way through the block with the tool. The centering cone supplied with the tool holds the rod in alignment for you that way. Years & years of installing cam bearings & freeze plugs!
If any of you brave souls is intent on trying, just remember, preparation is everything. Rub the bores with 320 emery cloth just until shiny first & lightly oil the housing bore & bearing. Oh, & be sure to line up the oil supply holes properly. Chryslers have three on bearings 2 & 5 most Fords have two on the number one.
If anybody has a small block Chevy, there is 3 different diameters used, number one being the largest (also two holes, don't know why, one of them doesn't line up with anything)
then 2&5 are 10 thousandths smaller in outside diameter, then 3&4 are 10 thousandths smaller in outside diameter than 2&5. All are the same inside diameter. The housing bores are grooved, so the oil hole in the bearing isn't picky. I put the hole at 4 oclock as viewed from the front with the block upright so that cam rotation will roll the oil under. I think if you position the holes at the top they just leak a lot more oil, since the valve train tends to push the cam downward.

On SBFs I always struggle with the middle one for some reason...not sure if its my technique or position in the block but I've done a dozen of these little 289/302s over the years and every time the middle one takes me forever. I don't mind the end ones......definitely need the right puller / installer for removing and installing and to Jim's point, proper prep is key.

I did my 318 on my 70 challenger a couple years back and that one was pretty straight forward.

[narly1]

Listening to you guys' "horror stories" I'm glad that I left the cam bearing install for the M/C shop to do.