Is a basically stock 302 too little motor? Subsequent build: ITS ALIVE SEE VIDEO

[narly1]

Bearings installed, crankshaft in the block and clearances checked using both precision gauge and Plastigauge methods. A larger variation in my gauge measurements as compared to the Plastigauge which I attribute to the fact that I was using my cheap vernier to capture the journal OD's instead of a micrometer. All measurements were still in spec so on to the next step.

20201022_001219[1].jpg

[junglejim]

Any caliper type measuring device can only be trusted to get within approximately 2-3 thousandths. Even a good micrometer can give you false readings if not properly cared for & calibrated. Also one must be sure that the micrometer and whatever you're measuring are at the same temperature. Used to have people bring cranks in to mic during cold weather and want an answer immediately. Uhhh sorry?

[narly1]

Any caliper type measuring device...

With the vernier you have the deeper jaws. I would hazard a guess that on a precise level the probably look like this \ /, so the dimension will vary depending on how far up or down the jaw you place the bore gauge tips. I know enough to rock the bore gauge back and forth to find the maxima and set that as zero. When you think about it this is why micrometers have a relatively small surface area on their jaws.

And I understand how materials expand and contract with temperature.

Since the last post I have taken the crankshaft back out and smeared the journals with some assembly lube, put it back in, and spun it a couple of rotations. I did this as the movement leaves some telltale marks (grooves actually) in the lube that show how the oiling holes in the crankshaft, bearing and block all line up. I was surprised to see that the crankshaft holes are not centered over the the grooves/holes in the other components. The oiling passages in the crankshaft go in and out at an angle, I'm thinking this is done to allow for smooth oil flow and also so that the rotation of the crankshaft "pumps" the oil through them due to centrifugal forces.

So today things are getting serious (like they weren't before LOL). The block is going to get moved off of my benchtop and onto a stand so I can mock-up piston assemblies in all 4 corners of it. I am doing this to check deck height and confirm how square the crankshaft is to the block (Note that I did not have the block line bored, my thinking being that they were fine together before. Hopefully my checks today will bear out my theory.) Plan is to put the piston assemblies into the block lubed, but without rings installed for this checking operation.

[narly1]

Something thing I noticed during my work so far is that there are a couple of shallow scratches in the crankshaft surface where the rear main seal is supposed to ride. How concerned should I be about these in terms of them causing seal leakage? Should I polish them out with 2000 grit and proceed?. Do note that I will be running the engine on a test stand before it gets married to the transmission and dropped into the car, so if there's leakage I can always go the repair sleeve route at that point. Note that I am going to start off with the a teflon rear main seal.

I should also add that I have already put a repair sleeve on my new harmonic balancer. I figured for $5 it was cheap insurance against the timing cover seal wearing a groove into it.

[junglejim]

Radial scratches usually are the result of grit imbedding in the seal. If they can't be felt, there's no issue. hand polishing won't bother it unless you rub a flat spot in it by concentrating only on the scratch. Scratches that run perpendicular to rotation may cause a problem, depending on how deep or sharp edged they are.

Checking the four corners for piston height in relation to block is a great idea and one that is commonly used by good builders. Know though that there are tolerances allowed in manufacture that could make one rod (or several) longer or shorter, same with pistons. Usually not immediately noticeable. If you get different heights from one corner to another, it is a good ide to swap the piston/rod assembly from one position to another & remeasure just to verify.

[33fromSD]

Something thing I noticed during my work so far is that there are a couple of shallow scratches in the crankshaft surface where the rear main seal is supposed to ride. How concerned should I be about these in terms of them causing seal leakage? Should I polish them out with 2000 grit and proceed?. Do note that I will be running the engine on a test stand before it gets married to the transmission and dropped into the car, so if there's leakage I can always go the repair sleeve route at that point. Note that I am going to start off with the a teflon rear main seal.

I should also add that I have already put a repair sleeve on my new harmonic balancer. I figured for $5 it was cheap insurance against the timing cover seal wearing a groove into it.

A HB repair sleeve is just that, a "repair" meant to simulate adding back the material lost due to wear which causes leaking by the seal. By adding a repair sleeve to a brand new HB with no groove in it you may self introduce a leak on the timing cover seal by stretching the seal. The $5 cheap insurance your seeking may end up costing you more down the line.

Just my opinion, but I personally would not put a repair sleeve on a brand new HB.

[narly1]

A HB repair sleeve is just that, a "repair" meant to simulate adding back the material lost due to wear which causes leaking by the seal. By adding a repair sleeve to a brand new HB with no groove in it you may self introduce a leak on the timing cover seal by stretching the seal. The $5 cheap insurance your seeking may end up costing you more down the line.

Just my opinion, but I personally would not put a repair sleeve on a brand new HB.

The way I figure it in the case of a repaired HB, the sleeve doesn't "sink" down and fill any groove worn into the HB. It just ends up creating a smooth, flat surface, arguably of slightly larger OD. I would expect that Felpro have taken the minute amount of seal stretch into account. That and I already put the damn thing on with the red Loctite it came with. Getting it off without causing any damage to the HB would be difficult.

And I'm clever enough to realize that the HB goes onto the crankshaft and it's "snout"gets slid down into the seal before the timing cover bolts get snugged down. You can't expect the "snout" of the HB to be perfectly centered in the seal.

I guess we'll see how this all works out when the engine gets fired up on the run stand. At least it will be in a good place to fix any leaks if need be and not wedged into an engine bay.

[narly1]

Radial scratches usually are the result of grit imbedding in the seal. If they can't be felt, there's no issue. hand polishing won't bother it unless you rub a flat spot in it by concentrating only on the scratch. Scratches that run perpendicular to rotation may cause a problem, depending on how deep or sharp edged they are.

Checking the four corners for piston height in relation to block is a great idea and one that is commonly used by good builders. Know though that there are tolerances allowed in manufacture that could make one rod (or several) longer or shorter, same with pistons. Usually not immediately noticeable. If you get different heights from one corner to another, it is a good ide to swap the piston/rod assembly from one position to another & remeasure just to verify.

I was going to use the same piston/rod assembly in all 4 corners to account for that variability. As a precaution against any damage I will check the crankshaft journal to rod bearing clearance in all 4 locations.

My main goals are ensuring that I have some deck clearance and measure same to refine my estimated compression ratio value. Doing measurements at all 4 corners and knowing where the crankshaft to block squareness is at is just a bonus.

Remember I'm still at the pre-assembly check stage. Once this all gets done the piston/rod assembly and crankshaft come back out (and get washed and cleaned AGAIN, this will be the second time) so I have easier access to the camshaft bore for installation.

When all 8 pistons go in for the last time I'll at least check that there is deck clearance in all 8 bores. (Verify everything LOL). Hell I might even measure them all again, LOL.

[33fromSD]

The way I figure it in the case of a repaired HB, the sleeve doesn't "sink" down and fill any groove worn into the HB. It just ends up creating a smooth, flat surface, arguably of slightly larger OD. I would expect that Felpro have taken the minute amount of seal stretch into account. That and I already put the damn thing on with the red Loctite it came with. Getting it off without causing any damage to the HB would be difficult.

And I'm clever enough to realize that the HB goes onto the crankshaft and it's "snout"gets slid down into the seal before the timing cover bolts get snugged down. You can't expect the "snout" of the HB to be perfectly centered in the seal.

I guess we'll see how this all works out when the engine gets fired up on the run stand. At least it will be in a good place to fix any leaks if need be and not wedged into an engine bay.

All true

[junglejim]

Well said, my brother.

[narly1]

OK so I just finished checking the deck height in all 4 corners using the same piston/rod assembly. It was hard to get repeatable measurements with my set-up but on average it looks like my deck clearance is about .014-.015" and the deck on each side is flat within .002". (Spec is .003")

Doing the math this works out to a static compression ratio of about 9.7:1 and a dynamic compression ratio of 8.5:1 which was what I had roughly planned for.

So this marks the end of the prep/inspection/mock-up phase.

The crankshaft will be coming out and both it and the block will get another washing and cleaning before the real assembly process starts, beginning with the camshaft installation.

20201025_202000[1].jpg

[narly1]

Baby steps tonight. Took the crankshaft out and wrapped it up in a blanket to take a nap until I'm ready for it again.

Put four shiney stainless steel cylinder head dowels into the deck surfaces.

Camshaft got washed,inspected, distributor gear cleaned with a small wire brush, cam gear bolt hole chased out with a tap, then washed it all again.

The cam bearings in the engine block got a wipe down with brake cleaner followed by a smear of assembly lube.

I then installed the cam in the block going slowly and using a long 3/8" bolt screwed into the end of it as a handle. I did it in stages, a quarter section at a time, resting the cam journals on the bearings part way in and then lubing up the next section before loading it into the engine block. All in all I found it to be a delicate operation but not that bad if you're careful and take your time.

Note that I decided to forgo washing the block off again. It's been kept covered since the last wash and I haven't been going anything "dirty" in and around it...

[narly1]

Bottom end is done. 1-piece teflon rear main seal tapped in flush after a light schmeer of high temp RTV gasket sealer on the rubber part of its lip. ARP studs to 80 ft-lbs instead of the old stock bolts to 70 ft lbs. They were probably all stretched out by now anyways. End play checked out at .005 to .007" depending on how tightly I wedged the crankshaft against the #3 bearing so let's call it .006" which is right in the middle of the spec range. A light spray of wd-40 and all wrapped up, waiting for the pistons now.

20201029_211554[1].jpg

[33fromSD]

Bottom end is done. 1-piece teflon rear main seal tapped in flush after a light schmeer of high temp RTV gasket sealer on the rubber part of its lip. ARP studs to 80 ft-lbs instead of the old stock bolts to 70 ft lbs. They were probably all stretched out by now anyways. End play checked out at .005 to .007" depending on how tightly I wedged the crankshaft against the #3 bearing so let's call it .006" which is right in the middle of the spec range. A light spray of wd-40 and all wrapped up, waiting for the pistons now.

20201029_211554[1].jpg

Very nice, awesome job. Just one word of caution...... seeing all that hard work wrapped tightly in plastic makes me cringe a bit. This time of year with weather / temperature changes it doesn't take much to trap moisture in that plastic and cause flash rust.

I know a guy in my neighborhood a few weeks ago that wrapped a block in a thick black plastic construction bag since we was going on vacation for a week, came back from vacation, opened the bag expecting to pick up where he left off and all the surfaces had flash rust on them.

you may be better off putting a sheet over it verses wrapping it tightly in plastic.... the sheet will keep dirt out too but allow it to breath.

[narly1]

Well, you know me, everything is slathered in WD-40 and assembly lube and it's not going to be that long before the wrap comes off again anyways.

After I wrapped I thought to myself this is kind of a waste as it won't be long before I'll need access to the bores for the ring end gapping process.

Up until now I've just been covering it over with old, but clean bath towels.

Hard work LOL 80 ft-lbs using a 24" breaker bar is a workout.

[narly1]

Oh man, the devil truly is in the details. I just learned that you can't run ARP's main studs or even their replacement main bolts without having your 302 block line bored with them installed

This is due to the added torque required by these studs/bolts (over stock ones) potentially distorting the block crankshaft saddles and causing bearing clearance issues. You can't even run them with a lower torque either as they may come loose.

So out come all the studs, and back in go the stock bolts. ARP confirms they are reusable

I just popped all the main caps here at lunch today. bearings look fine, no scratches, etc.

Better safe than sorry I guess.

[junglejim]

Narly1, if you can measure the main bores with a dial bore gauge while torqued to spec with the ARP studs, you may find that there is no cause for concern.
The machine shop I used to bore my block assured me that the main bores would distort using studs. Being a see it for yourself type guy, I installed the suds, torqued them to 100 pound/ft, (Cleveland block) and measured them with a dial bore gauge. I found zero distortion in 3 axes of measurement. My vertical oil clearance is .0025" and the crank turns nicely.
As an extra step, I removed the crank afterwards and examined all the bearings for tight spots (shiny spots). Everything good.
So the point is trust, but verify.
Also, if you're going to wrap anything iron or steel for storage, newspaper is your friend. It absorbs moisture. Use it, then plastic.

[narly1]

Narly1, if you can measure the main bores with a dial bore gauge while torqued to spec with the ARP studs....

Good idea in theory but I already installed the rear main seal. It's bad enough that on the 5th cap I only pulled the studs and switched back to the stock bolts, bearings sight unseen. I did this on the basis that the other 4 were fine.

Lesson for next time is that the final fasteners to be used should be sent to the machine shop along with the block and caps. Note that the rod bolts were changed out for new ones from ARP and the M/C shop sized the big ends with them installed and torqued. So at least I did one thing right LOL.

[narly1]

As an update I am in the process of researching piston ring end gap.

There seems to be so many little details like this in the engine building process.

So much to learn, but so much fun.

[narly1]

After gathering recommendations from several sources including the piston and ring manufacturers I'm going with:

.026" for the #1 (top ring)

.020" for the #2 ring

.015" for the rails of the oiler ring assembly.

Next step is to MacGuyver up a grinding rig and do some practicing on the old rings.

Any tips on how to steady the oiler rails while measuring their gap?

They're thin and flimsy as hell.

[junglejim]

For street use the second ring gap should be as much as or more than the top ring gap. The reason being that any combustion gas leaking through the gap of the top ring could pressurize the area between top and second rings, unseating the top ring from the ring land and causing it to flutter.
The oil ring rails rarely need end grinding for clearance, but I have seen it necessary. Take one of the old pistons, put an oil ring assembly on it, and use it to push the rings into the cylinder (the piston must be upside down during this). The rings on the piston will stop the piston from going any further into the bore, and the piston crown will keep the ring in the cylinder square. Then measure carefully with a feeler gauge.

[narly1]

For street use the second ring gap should be as much as or more than the top ring gap.

Good morning, I had a detailed discussion elsewhere regarding the #2 gap. So I've already seen the reasons for going with a "larger than #1" gap. The .020" I posted earlier figure came straight from Hastings. Silv-O-Lite said .016". The only thing I could get reasonable agreement on from all 3 sources were the #1 and oiler ring gaps.

For the #2, I had values suggested to me ranging from #1 gap + .002" (so ~.026-.028") all they way out to .040"!

What am I supposed to use? LOL

And thanks for the tip on using an old piston to square up the rings in the bore for gap measurement. I already knew that and it works great for the #1 & #2 rings. I was just hoping for a better solution for the oiler rails. I guess I'll just have to be real delicate with the feeler gauge and not disturb them.

[narly1]

I think I'm going to stick with the gaps I posted and I'll tell you why.

First see the attached chart from Hastings. Observe that in the case of standard cast pistons the gap factor for the #2 ring is greater than the #1
ring gap factor. It's only when you switch to hypereutectic pistons (which is what I have) that the situation reverses.

The #1 ring gap factor is huge by comparison to the one for cast pistons. From everything I've read this is because of the piston metallurgy and design (#1 ring land is closer to the top of the piston 221" vs .269 for the old stock one). Both contribute to there being a lot more heat in and around the top of the piston. So the top gap needs to be disproportionally large relative to the #2 gap.

That and the fact that I'm not building a high revving race engine where pressure build-up between the rings is a greater concern than it is in more of a street engine.



Attachment 137193

[narly1]

I'm back!

Between fall clean-up duties and a long overdue Sunday drive & date with Mrs. Narly1 not much time for the engine project.

So over the last few days I made up this little jig which uses my Dremel tool to file the rings. It works great!

20201113_201957[1].jpg

I used one of the old pistons with 1 ring left on it as a tool to square up the new rings in the cylinder bores for measurement.

As found the #1 (top) rings were averaging .018"-.019" which is too tight for my application.

I still have to do the #2 rings, hoping to finish that off later tonight.

On the subject of how to measure the gap on those flimsy oiler rails, I had a moment of genius, LOL.

I used one of the old top rings as a "backer" and then pressed the oiler rails down against that, making sure that the gaps lined up.
If you look close you can see the stacked gaps in this next picture:

20201113_201832[1].jpg

Gaps on the rails ranged between .032 " and .035" well above the .015" minimum recommended by Hastings.

Once all the filing is done each set of rings gets deburred, cleaned, and packed away in a labelled zip loc bag, ready for installation on its respective piston.

[narly1]

Made some good progress over the past couple of days.

I managed to get 4 pistons installed yesterday before high winds knocked out the power here.

One more done today at lunch, and the other 3 this evening.

Rod to crankshaft journal side clearances (spec is .010" to .020"):

1/5: .014"

2/6: .013"

3/7: .013"

4/8: .015"

I didn't the catch breakout torque, but rotating torque is about 16.5 ft-lbs. Note this is spinning just the crankshaft and pistons, the timing chain has not been installed yet. Bores lubed with 10W30, assembly lube on everything else. Rear main seal installed.

20201116_220222[1].jpg

[narly1]

Looking for comments on what I'm seeing for the rotating torque.

I think I'm good but appreciate any feedback that you may have...

[33fromSD]

To answer your question in the subject line ....no, a basic 302 is not too little motor for the 33 HR.

I go-karted mine yesterday (it was a blast) and I have a plain-Jane 302 with maybe 260 HP and the car is soooo light that the arsh-end will come around with little or no effort both from a stop or getting on it. I can't even imaging how fun/scary these things would be with an LS3, Coyote 5.0, or some other powerful engine.

Enjoy your build.

[narly1]

To answer your question in the subject line ...Enjoy your build.

Thanks Jim for the encouragement. I am enjoying my build. So much to learn and consider when building up an engine. It sure is good to have something on the go during this COVID thing.

Right now I'm stuck at the timing set installation. Using a Cloyes 9-3138 double roller set.

The dowel pin that drives the cam gear got stuck before fully bottoming out in my nice new cam, and messed up the cam bolt washer. Getting that out was a PITA let me tell you.
So now I'm waiting on new ARP cam bolt, drive dowel pins and harmonic balancer timing sticker to turn up.

The garage has never been cleaner, if you know what I mean, LOL.

And sorry for not posting on your build thread, I haven't been because don't think that I have that much to offer, seeing as I don't not have the actual kit yet.

[33fromSD]

Thanks Jim for the encouragement. I am enjoying my build. So much to learn and consider when building up an engine. It sure is good to have something on the go during this COVID thing.

Right now I'm stuck at the timing set installation. Using a Cloyes 9-3138 double roller set.

The dowel pin that drives the cam gear got stuck before fully bottoming out in my nice new cam, and messed up the cam bolt washer. Getting that out was a PITA let me tell you.
So now I'm waiting on new ARP cam bolt, drive dowel pins and harmonic balancer timing sticker to turn up.

The garage has never been cleaner, if you know what I mean, LOL.

And sorry for not posting on your build thread, I haven't been because don't think that I have that much to offer, seeing as I don't not have the actual kit yet.

No worries at all...

[narly1]

OK so new 1.5" dowel pin came today and it drops right into the camshaft without any force at all. It's a bit on the long side but at least the good news is that I can easily take it out and grind it down a bit without introducing any metal filings into my nice clean engine build.

[narly1]

After the false start due to the jammed dowel pin issue, the timing set is finally installed.

Tried my hand at degreeing a cam for the first time. Found out that when using the "factory settings" keyway on the crankshaft gear, that due to the 4 degrees of timing advance ground into the cam that the intake centre line was only 106 degrees instead of 110 degrees spec'd.

So had to use the retard keyway to get it back to 110 degrees. Did a check of the valve opening and closing events for the first pair of intake and exhaust lobes, using my dial indicator on top of two lifters riding on them. Within the accuracy of my sophomoric degreeing set-up values seem about right.

Replaced the cam bolt with a new ARP one. Blue Loctite and torqued to 45 ft-lbs.

Next steps timing cover and harmonic balancer installation.

20201119_183415[1].jpg

[narly1]

I'm surprised nobody noticed that the cam bolt and washer are missing in the above photo. It was taken previously before I put them in. Yes the new bolt came with a new washer which partially covers the hole and retains the dowel pin.

As an aside, the reason I changed the bolt/washer is that when the previous dowel pin was sticking up above the cam gear face it damaged the original washer.

This damage occurred when I tried to tighten down the bolt without realizing that the dowel pin was stuck.

[narly1]

Timing cover, water pump and harmonic balancer all mocked up and waiting for final installation. Some of the bolts from the new stainless steel hardware kit I bought were the wrong lengths. So trips to TSC and Spaenaur and we're good to go now. Waiting on a new water pump to backing plate gasket (accidentally tore the one that came with the water pump) and a timing pointer (which BTW mounts via 2 of the timing cover mounting bolts that you can't get in and out once the harmonic balancer is on) to show up.

The idea being that you install the harmonic balancer with the timing cover slightly loose so that the timing cover to crankshaft seal nicely locates the two parts. This helps to prevent the seal from wearing out prematurely due to misalignment of the two parts.

Also I read somewhere that you shouldn't use the harmonic balancer bolt to drive the HB onto the crank snout. There is a special tool you can buy for the job but once again necessity is the mother of invention.

The tool uses a bearing between the head of the bolt and the crank face to reduce the friction during tightening and thus minimizing the wear on the crankshaft's internal threads. So looking at this I remembered that I had a similar looking bearing kicking around from when I fixed my wheelbarrow (see picture). Turns out it's a near perfect fit so I'll just use it along with the old HB mounting bolt to drive the HB home.

20201130_202050[1].jpgbearing.jpg

[narly1]

20201204_232747[1].jpg

Parts came today so final assembly of timing cover, water pump and harmonic balancer completed tonight.

As a side note I didn't end up needing to use the old bolt & bearing to install the harmonic balancer.

Following a tip I saw online I warmed up the harmonic balancer in a pot of boiling water. It slipped all the way in and bottomed out on the crankshaft snout with only the lightest bit of hand pressure.

[narly1]

20201213_211626[1].jpg

Oil pump and pick-up tube installation.

Pump is a blueprinted, standard volume and pressure Melling M68 from Precision Oil Pumps. ARP HD pump shaft.

Pump to block mounting bolts torqued to 25 ft-lbs and pick-up to pump bolts at 20 ft-lbs. Nut on main cap 25 ft-lbs. Not taking any chance on any of these coming loose.

I then installed the oil pan with the gasket I will be using, with a few bolts installed and lightly tightened. Using the Playdough clearance checking method., I am finding that the pick-up is quite high up off the bottom of the pan, ~. 85".

In addition it's not level/parallel to the block or the pan bottom side-to-side.


So that's enough for one night. Tomorrow night I will put something in between the pick-up and the block to act as a shield so I can heat the pick-up tube in-situ with a torch and bend it for a tighter clearance. Aiming for 1/2"...

[narly1]

So before I go wild with the torches I figured I would fit to old stock pick-up and see what the clearance was like. Still the same at about .85" so the pan must be to blame. Found that by slipping washers under the tab that mounts the pick-up to the mains cap I was able to change the height such that the clearance is now .5". (It's actually about .45 to .6" across the width but close enough.)

[narly1]

So at a bit of a standstill at the moment. Mrs. Narly1 got laid off from work which leaves me to keep the ship afloat until she's working again.

This year's Christmas bonus got partly put towards the niceties of the holiday and paying off the balance on my truck loan. Logic being that the extra $360/month that was going towards the loan will probably come in handy in the next few months.

So the next items are big ticket, heads and efi system, these may have to wait a bit...

In the meantime I did use some of the bonus to pay for a new set of rocker arms.

So not having anything to do here today, I revisited timing pointer/harmonic balancer set-up. I double checked my el cheapo degreeing wheel and sure enough it has 3 holes at 120 degrees apart that line u with the pulley bolt holes on the balancer. So I was able to determine "true" TDC using the degreeing wheel method and set the 0 degree pointer to line up with the mark on the balancer.

[33fromSD]

So at a bit of a standstill at the moment. Mrs. Narly1 got laid off from work which leaves me to keep the ship afloat until she's working again.

This year's Christmas bonus got partly put towards the niceties of the holiday and paying off the balance on my truck loan. Logic being that the extra $360/month that was going towards the loan will probably come in handy in the next few months.

So the next items are big ticket, heads and efi system, these may have to wait a bit...

In the meantime I did use of the bonus to pay for a new set of rocker arms.

So not having anything to do here today, I revisited timing pointer/harmonic balancer set-up. I double checked my el cheapo degreeing wheel and sure enough it has 3 holes at 120 degrees apart that line u with the pulley bolt holes on the balancer. So I was able to determine "true" TDC using the degreeing wheel method and set the 0 degree pointer to line up with the mark on the balancer.

Sorry to hear to about your wife's layoff....never a fun time in normal circumstances and this year and been anything but normal. Hopefully your wife finds something soon and you can get back to the engine.

Lots of people impacted this past year, I'm starting to see more and more newer cars for sale in parking lots and more houses for sale. Very sad.

[narly1]

So glad that we decided on the modest side when we bought our house back in the late 80's and structured things so that we could get by on only one salary.

With both of us in sales it was the right thing to do. There have been several stretches over the years where one of us was out of work and we've always survived.

December was an amazing month for me, I ended up at about 300% of my sales target for the month. So looking good going into the new year. Hopefully Mrs. Narly will be back to work by the time the commission cheques start rolling in. Daddy needs car parts LOL.

[narly1]

So these just turned up today

20201227_134905[1].jpg