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Thread: Hydraulic Clutch

  1. #1
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    Hydraulic Clutch

    As my Mk IV sits minus body and doors, etc., I am undertaking some corrective measures of things I really did not like while driving in gel coat.
    I got to thinking (again) about replacing my clutch cable with a hydraulic unit. Just how much trouble is it to accomplish this?
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Relatively easy with the body off. Assuming you're going to put a slave cylinder on the existing clutch arm versus a hydraulic throwout bearing that would require splitting the engine/bell housing. If you have a Wilwood pedal box, master cylinder bolts right in after removing the Factory Five cable mod. Mike Forte's setup is probably the most common.
    Last edited by edwardb; 12-13-2019 at 02:14 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  3. #3
    Richard Oben's Avatar
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    With Forte set up, no problem at all. No need to separate engine from transmission. HTH. Richard
    Richard Oben FFR builder www.northracecars.com

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  5. #4
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Oben View Post
    With Forte set up, no problem at all. No need to separate engine from transmission. HTH. Richard
    If you're correcting my post, maybe didn't read it correctly. Or I wasn't clear. Agreed, no need to separate if using a slave cylinder on the clutch arm, which is how the Forte system works. Maybe too much information on my part. Just know some are looking at using a hydraulic TOB these days since they're quite common on DD's.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  7. #5
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    Sorry. Should have been clearer. Just the slave on arm type, not the bearing one.
    On Forte's site, they only list the kit for T-600. I have a T-5.
    Last edited by Dwleo; 12-13-2019 at 05:12 PM. Reason: additional info

  8. #6
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    I did it on a completed car. Not a big deal IF you are using a slave cylinder, not a hydraulic throwout bearing. It takes a little patience just because of the space, or lack thereof in the foot box. Under the car is easy.

    There are several kits out there with various bracket designs and different slave setups. There are several slave cylinders out there, some with bad ratings. I did a lot of reading.

    I bought a Wilwood M/C, and used the pushrod and slave cylinder from dazecars.com. I made my own bracket sort of like the dazecars one.
    One thing with the new short version of the Wilwood M/C. It has a plastic cap that I didn't like for inlet. They also make a fitting. It is a special Wilwood piece with proprietary threads.

    I changed my whole pedal box because the old offset cable clutch wrecked it. Compared to that, easy-peasy.

  9. #7
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Some stuff doesn't show up on Forte's site. Best to call....
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
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  10. #8
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    I have it on my T5, I got it from Forte. He has it for sure, just give him a call.
    I’ve driven my own and another car with the FFR/wilwood cable setup and the hydraulic is WAY more enjoyable to drive.
    2017 FFR MK4 9026, 3 Link, 15" FFR halibrands, cooper cobra tires, '88 302/5.0, GT40 Y303 heads, Performer RPM intake Manifold, Holley 650 DP Carb, Pertronix distributor, T5Z spec built transmission, 3.73 rear end. Ordered Nov 2016, picked up at FFR Feb 2017, first start July 2017, Legal on the road May 2018, still in Gelcoat.

  11. #9
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Watch for interference between the slave cylinder bracket & the transmission webbing. My bracket required just a bit of clearancing (blue sharpie in the picture below). While my bracket was from Forte, it's probably best practice to check this no matter who makes the bracket.

    Also, don't be surprised if you have to use a conventional bolt with washer under the head rather than a bolt with a flange. Sometimes the flange interferes with the body of the transmission such that you can't get the bolt through the bracket.


    John

    IMG_2508 by jhsitton, on Flickr
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 12-14-2019 at 01:07 PM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  12. #10
    Senior Member bobm488's Avatar
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    Here's mine, came installed from Forte.

    Slave.jpg

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