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Thread: Rusty Brake Rotors

  1. #1
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    Rusty Brake Rotors

    Anybody have any guidance on how to keep the rotors from rusting and looking like crap? Had a few humid days here and rotors looked like they were years old. Had to take apart and scrub and clean everything. Any tricks to keeping the parts that the disks don't contact free of rust? Especially the outer perimeter edges?

  2. #2
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    I'd just keep up with cleaning the rotors... hard to find a good protectant that won't compromise braking

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    Todd
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    Anyone have input on coated brake rotors? I wonder why these are not standard?

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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    My 2014 GMC Sierra has ‘nitrided’ rotors that seem to be standing up to road salt and life with little evidence of rusting at 5 winters and 60,000 miles. Don’t know how much it cost to have a set nitrided and I suspect the pad composition may be different to conventional rotors.

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    I would recommend a nice layer of marine grease (NOT!). This does wonders and keeps rotors from rusting. Keep in mind that the brakes won't work and that's where the wondering comes in. Wondering what your going to crash into to stop.

    I just had my tires replaced at a local tire shop that told me the rotors should be replaced because they are rusting. I was polite but very clear that he shouldn't expect to service my vehicle again.
    Rotors rust. It's not a big deal, or a deal at all. Drive that piece of automotive history and the rust will resolve itself.

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    Senior Member johnnybgoode's Avatar
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    I cleaned mine up with a wire brush in a drill motor. Scott

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    Senior Member Cobradavid's Avatar
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    I usually just drive the car and do some braking. That seems to work.
    "Honey, I need to go clean up the brake rotors. See you in an hour."

    David
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobradavid View Post
    I usually just drive the car and do some braking. That seems to work.
    "Honey, I need to go clean up the brake rotors. See you in an hour."

    David
    LOL. That will work for the disc surface but not much for the hat or the outer rim. Found these that are totally coated. Hat and disc. Think I'll try them out.


    https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBPR...ndex=Universal

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobradavid View Post
    I usually just drive the car and do some braking. That seems to work.
    "Honey, I need to go clean up the brake rotors. See you in an hour."

    David
    I'm with David on this one!

  11. #10
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I masked off the wear surfaces and hub/wheel contact areas and rattle-can'd 'em with engine enamel. (It's lasted 10 years on my Elky)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Rusty rotors -- seriously?
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

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  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    Rusty rotors -- seriously?
    Yep....seriously. Don't quite understand that response. You spend 40K on kit, motor, trans et. And before I even get it driveable the rotors and calipers look like they are from a junk yard. Your trying to build a semi show quality rod. So yea. I was looking for a solution to keep the brakes looking nice. Any positive suggestions appreciated.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobradavid View Post
    I usually just drive the car and do some braking. That seems to work.
    "Honey, I need to go clean up the brake rotors. See you in an hour."

    David
    +1
    This

  15. #14
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    I ended up cleaning and prepping mine, along with the calipers, as I wanted them to match the accent color of the details on the car, that included the outer edges.
    20180330_182832.jpg
    Same amount of time as trying to research, buy and pickup ones that others done and ended up being less expensive. Everyone has their way of setting up and doing this.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
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  16. #15
    Papa's Avatar
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    Until I saw the detail in the above post, I would have said that short of replacing the rotors with new coated ones, there isn't much you can do about the edges. For the hub/hat portions, I've used high heat engine paint to keep them looking good. I'm not sure I'd spend the time to bother with the edges on a car that is intended to be driven.
    Last edited by Papa; 12-19-2019 at 10:07 AM.
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  17. #16
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    I think different rotor compositions rust differently. On my 2014 Vette, the first time I washed it in the garage, the pads froze to the rotors. I took a bit of gas feeding to break them loose. Now, I just drive the car a bit after washing and problem solved.
    I suspect you live in a moist area in Texas where surface rusting is a problem, not related to car washing, but driving is a solution. Does not help cosmetic issues on hat and rotor edge, but that is up to each individual.
    Ralph

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