Tail Lights Questions

[Alphamacaroon]

I can say without a doubt that the most difficult and excruciating part of my build yet has been getting the damn retaining rings seated into the tail light bezels... It took two hours for me to get two of them done.

Does anybody have a trick to getting it seated in there? I'm using some pliers with a paint stick like they recommend, but it's super awkward to hold it and squeeze it without popping the ring out.

Another question:

How are people generally wiring their tail lights? The manual seems to be missing this entirely...

I'm leaning towards:

- Brakes = high intensity on top lights
- Turn signal = high intensity on bottom lights
- Parking Lights = low intensity on both top and bottom lights

Any other suggestions on more effective setups?

One last question:

Has anyone come up with a clever way to make the tail lights removable if they need to be replaced in the future? Seems like it will be pretty well impossible to access them once the rear aluminum is put in. The only thing I can think of is to cut some access hatches in the aluminum.

[edwardb]

Agree those snap rings can be a little uncooperative. I had better luck getting them seated by <carefully> holding the fixture sideways with the bezel against the workbench on something non-abrasive, like a towel or rag. Then tapped the ring into the slot around the circle with a screwdriver and hammer. Didn't take a heavy hand, but couldn't get them otherwise. Just make sure they're seated all the way around. I had two other discoveries when I installed mine for the final time. Several of the pressed in studs spun with I used the locknuts. They weren't pressed in very well. I re-seated them and they've been OK. Also when you tighten the nuts, I found the aluminum ring (the same one with the studs) wants to pull down and the snap ring can pop out. Grrr... I ended up putting some JB Weld around the snap ring after it was seated. No reason for them to come apart again. Agree it would be tight to reach up there between the body and the back panel, but I think it would be possible. As far as the actual lighting, I did them the way you describe. https://youtu.be/AAzI1ulTMV8.

[Alphamacaroon]

Excellent info as usual. Thanks again.

I like those reverse lights you have— where did you source them? I'm sure I can find it on your build thread.

That also gets me thinking... while I have easy access, it might be time to get a reverse camera installed.

[jdavis500]

Consider nut insert and screw mounting of the rear hatch panel for tail light access.

[edwardb]

I like those reverse lights you have— where did you source them?

Those are Watsons Streetworks L96WCL White LED backup lights. Mfg name is Maxxima, same brand as the front turn and running lights supplied with the kit.

Consider nut insert and screw mounting of the rear hatch panel for tail light access.

No right or wrong answers here. Not sure exactly where you're at in your build. But depending on how you plan to finish the hatch area, e.g. carpet, etc. making that whole rear hatch wall removable would be a bit challenging and overkill IMO. It's riveted to the floor, sidewalls, and attached to the body. You'd have to make the carpet removable. Plus it's a tight fit and not particularly easy to get in and out. Just went through that a few weeks ago. Nothing insurmountable there, but if you really feel strongly about needing to access the lights from inside the hatch area, then access panels would be the better choice I think. But I'm still of the opinion I could reach up from behind if I really had to. Wouldn't be the most fun job ever, but still possible. Assuming they aren't defective, LED's shouldn't need service for a very long time.

[Hoschton Hotrod Haus]

The taillights are a “piece of cake” compared to installing the plexiglass in the side window frames!
Took me almost 4 hours and I
used up my entire vocabulary cussing at them...

I can say without a doubt that the most difficult and excruciating part of my build yet has been getting the damn retaining rings seated into the tail light bezels... It took two hours for me to get two of them done.

Does anybody have a trick to getting it seated in there? I'm using some pliers with a paint stick like they recommend, but it's super awkward to hold it and squeeze it without popping the ring out.

Another question:

How are people generally wiring their tail lights? The manual seems to be missing this entirely...

I'm leaning towards:

- Brakes = high intensity on top lights
- Turn signal = high intensity on bottom lights
- Parking Lights = low intensity on both top and bottom lights

Any other suggestions on more effective setups?

One last question:

Has anyone come up with a clever way to make the tail lights removable if they need to be replaced in the future? Seems like it will be pretty well impossible to access them once the rear aluminum is put in. The only thing I can think of is to cut some access hatches in the aluminum.

[John Dol]

I used a trailer light set up so all 4 are tail lights, all 4 are break lights, and two left/two right are turn signals.

I made a removable panel on each side in the back aluminum to access the tail lights, back up light, and license plate light.

HTH,

John

[Alphamacaroon]

I used a trailer light set up so all 4 are tail lights, all 4 are break lights, and two left/two right are turn signals.

I had considered that route as well. But doesn't that mean you couldn't use your turn signal and brake light at the same time (the brake light would cause the turn signal to stop flashing)?

[John Dol]

The turn signals will be on one side and the brake lights on the other side if that makes sense

[Big Blocker]

Just to clarify, there are a number of ways to wire the circuit to blink both lights for turn signalling and not effect the brake lights activated on the other side. There are "trailer adapters" available from several sources, companies like Signal Dynamics make a unit that seems to work well, and there are relay circuits available that will accomplish that same scenario.

Most builders opt for one light for braking, the other for TS (per side) - it's easier to separate the circuits if you are against doing some "extra" work to get better lighting in the rear. Personally, I have both upper and lower as TS on my Roadster because I live in the desert where bright sun can interfere with visibility. I wanted as much indication as possible . . .

Doc

[edwardb]

The discussion about double brake lights, blinkers, trailer adapters, etc. is fine. But before you go to a lot of effort, have you tried the LED's that are provided with the Gen 3 Coupe? They are big (some say too big...) and very bright. Especially at night. Much brighter than the typical 1157 regular or LED's used on Roadsters and others. Your intentions will not be unnoticed with only single lights on turn signals and brakes. IMO anyway. Now I did add a 3rd brake light into the spoiler on mine (video in previous post) to eliminate any doubt since our area is blessed with a whole bunch of drivers who seem obsessed with tailgating.

[Big Blocker]

Quote: "our area is blessed with a whole bunch of drivers who seem obsessed with tailgating."

Paul, that is not exclusive to your area . . . trust me, the people that come to Vegas are "blessed" with the same obsession - that and texting / looking for directions on their cell phone map app.

Good choice on the 3rd brake light.

Doc

[John Dol]

I put in a third break light too, as well as motorcycle blinkers on the rear cage for improved visibility

John