Quick Release / Russ Thompson turn signal

[mdutton11]

Ditto - just found I have access to a 3D printer through a friend. Can anyone supply the files for spacers with the RT turn signal so I can make few sets and pay forward or if you are done with yours send to me and I will keep the train going.... PM me for email address. Cheers!

[Misterfubar]

Ditto - just found I have access to a 3D printer through a friend. Can anyone supply the files for spacers with the RT turn signal so I can make few sets and pay forward or if you are done with yours send to me and I will keep the train going.... PM me for email address. Cheers!

Same. I'd love to print my own set if someone can pass along the files. I can even ship a set or two out if anyone needs them.

[BrewCityCobra]

Same. I'd love to print my own set if someone can pass along the files. I can even ship a set or two out if anyone needs them.

Make that three of us!

[mdutton11]

Karl- -I thought I had replied to this post but apparently I did not hit send. Can you send me the CAD file? I am wil PM my email. Cheers and thanks!

[Jammer369]

I would like the files as well. Thanks in advance!

[Ted G]

Ok, ironically I just ordered mine and I guess I need to read the 3 pages of this thread to figure out what the 3D printed device does. Hmmm. I mean unless someone wants to give me a cliff notes version......


Ted

[cgundermann]

It just helps keep both the hub/Russ' assembly and the quick release unit centered as you re-drill the bolt pattern (different from the Lola FFR steering wheel bolt pattern). It can be done without the jigs...

I just sent some printed ones to a Forum member yesterday.

Chris

[frd2]

it helps to center the steering wheel with the quick release, and the quick release with the hub that Russ Thompson modifies for his turn signal.

If you don't center them and instead drill them way off center, then the wheel would "wobble" as you rotate it.

[Ted G]

I get it.... Might look into this as well.

Thanks for the cliff notes.


Ted

[dbo_texas]

Found an adapter by NRG so you don't have to cut off the back of the quick release. The part number is SRK-500BK.

Attachment 151267

For anyone wondering, if you use the spacer part from NRG (SRK-500BK), it works fine, but the only issue is that if you don't trim off that section from the part that mounts to the hub as many have done, you are basically adding an extra 3/8 inch (or whatever the thickness of that spacer is) to the depth of the steering column. This is not a problem for some folks, but if you want to maximize space in the cockpit and push the wheel toward the dash as much as you can, you will still need to cut the piece off the quick release. I was a little confused until I got the parts. But if you don't need the extra space and don't feel like cutting anything off, this stock spacer is a great option.

[Kobra Kermit]

NRG quick release.
I hope someone here will be able to help me. I am a disabled Vet and have a fused knee on my left leg. I should have found a local roadster to see if I could get in or out. With the FFR wheel in place, I can get in, but when it comes to getting out it takes several minutes of trying to find the way out.
I have the NRG SRK400CF and need the plastic device you all have used to help ensure concentric alignment while drilling the needed hole pattern.

I realize the events in the thread happened back in 2020, but I'm in a corner trying to find a way out.

Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated and I am ready to pay for your time and material.

Cheers - Kobra Kermit

Kermit Pethtel
Major USAF
Retired

[cgundermann]

Just PMed you.

Chris

[CaptB]

NRG quick release.
I hope someone here will be able to help me. I am a disabled Vet and have a fused knee on my left leg.

Thank you for your service, I also am the same type vet U.S. Navy retired.

Capt. B

[Kobra Kermit]

Just PMed you.

Chris

Thanks Chris. Problem solved. Fixture will be going back tocgunderman after the drill press and tap work.
This forum rocks.
Thanks to all who PM'd me.

[rhk118]

Hey Guys, I'm starting on this NRG project today and wondering is anyone has a set of Jigs I can pay to have shipped to me or the 3D file so I can get a set printed up? Thanks so much.

EDIT: Thanks to cgundermann for sending me some jigs, they worked great. What wasn't clear to me from this thread that maybe will clear things up for others is the boss coming back from Russ Thompson is 2 parts held together by large philips head screws. These need to be countersunk flush to hold the 2 parts of the boss together. I had to trim the philips head screws back like others 3-4 mm so they didn't stick out the back after countersinking. You can see one of these out of my boss and one half way out.

Then you need to drill the holes to mount the NRG to the boss once it is together. These should be staggered between the large philips heads, and make sure you line up the top of the NRG from the etched "T" on top of the boss (you can see it in the picture). I drilled the new holes on my drill press with a 4.5 mm bit, tapped with M5x0.8. Not sure what number the drill bit I used was, came out of a pile and was 4.5 mm wide, just check it on a micrometer. I saw 4.3 mm recommended for drill bit size, 4.5 mm was as close as I had and it worked just fine. The hex bolts that are pictures come with the NRG and are M5x0.8. Make sure these are lined up well as there is very little play with the hex screws coming out of the NRG. I used a transfer punch to mark.





These are the screws from McMaster that are the proper length for the NRG portion that goes on the steering wheel. Someone else pointed out the NRG piece is registered for "top". One note about McMaster I learned the $11 way by having to order longer screws....they measure their screws including the head, not just thread length. So an 8 mm screw only has about 5 mm of thread. So these are the screws I used and are proper length (I also used blue loctite on everything once I knew it all went together).







Hope this helps someone, you've all helped me a bunch. And thanks so much Chris!

[csmith]

Could I get a copy of the cad files to print off the jig? Alternatively, I could pay for shipping for someone’s that’s done with it and then pay it forward for the next guy. Thanks in advanced!