Andy LV Hot Rod Build # 1196

[e36m3]

I got the pedal box, brake lines installed, and the brakes bled. Power bleeder came in real handy.
I'm glad to have running the hard lines for the brakes behind me, it was all pretty straight forward except for when my two post lift got stuck all the way up

After a couple of hours of I finally go the lift to go back down, whew...
I had gotten lazy about keeping the slides on the lift lubed and it had been a while since I'd had anything on the lift up that high.
Lots of WD-40 and some little careful prying finallyy got things moving again. I've applied liberal amounts of white lithium grease on the lift now.

Thanks,

Andy

[e36m3]

I went the traditional route with American Racing VNCL 205 Classic Torq-Thrust II Gray Painted Wheels with polished lips.
Fronts are 17x9 with 5.5" back spacing (12mm offset)
Rears are 17x11 with 6" back spacing (0mm offset)

I tried ordering the wheels and tires through TireRack since I buy tires for my M3 every other year from them. The person I tlaked to on the phone at Tirerack didn't seem really interested in helping me out since the wheels were not stock items. I was really surpised at that.

I then stopped by my local Belle Tire told what I was looking for. The manager took my info and said he'd get back to me, never heared back from him.
The next day I stopped at the a local OK Tire shop. The guy there was really helpful and honest with me. He said that they order their wheels through www.carid.com and told me to go out to there and order them to save me the markup he'd have to do. I'll be do some more busniness with OK Tire.

This is a link to the page. https://www.carid.com/american-racin...ip-479585.html.
I didn't trust that I'd get the right offsets for the wheels via ordering from the website so I called them. Jarred Jimenez Phone: 888.978.3395 x8718 at carid.com was very helpful and I'm confident I'll get the right wheels.

The tires I ordered are NITTO - NT555 G2 https://www.carid.com/nitto-tires/nt...-96195603.html
255/40/17 Front
315/35/17 Back.
To make sure my tires fit within FFR recommedations for the bike fenders I used this website to look up tire diameter and width. https://tiresize.com/calculator/
Jarred at carid.com verfied the sizes for me.
So far so good, intially I was told the wheels with mounted tires would ship middle of November. I got an email Friday last week that the American Racing will not ship the wheels until 1/8/21, bummer.

The chassis is a roller now and I need to move off my lift to do some work on my M3 so over the weekend I picked up four wheels and tires for $200, see picture below.
CragarSS.JPG
17" Cragar SS wheels weigh a ton!

Thanks,
Andy

[e36m3]

It’s been a month since my last update, I’ve either been at working OT at my day job or out in the garage working on the hot rod.
In that time I’ve got the following done.

Drilled the holes for the floor pans. Good high quality carbide drill bits and a power drill made this much easier than I anticipated. It took a few hours of work and it was done.

Installed the clutch. This took much longer than I anticipated. The engine, bell housing, clutch fork, and T5 transmission all came from different cars so I carefully measured everything per the Centerforce directions, lucky everything lines up within the stated Centerforce tolerances.
Pulling the old pilot bearing was a bit of pain since the engine shop forgot to pull the old bearing for me. I tried kluging up something to pull the pilot bearing, but I finally just bought a puller on Amazon. I should have just ordered the puller to begin with, it would have saved me a couple evenings of fiddling around.

My youngest son was home for a weekend and we got the engine and tranny dropped into the chassis. Everything lined up and dropped in with ease.
The only minor problem I ran into was the oil filter hitting the electric power steering motor. I think the engine currently has a PH16 size filter on the engine. I think I need a PH8. Can anyone verify this?

Now that the engine is temporarily in place I’m working on figuring out what needs to mount where on the firewall.

Engine in.jpgoil filter.jpg
Thanks,

Andy

[RoadRacer]

The trick I learned for removing pilot bearings was stuff with grease and then hammer in the install tool.. the grease hydraulics out the bearing. Works remarkably well.

[progmgr1]

The only minor problem I ran into was the oil filter hitting the electric power steering motor. I think the engine currently has a PH16 size filter on the engine. I think I need a PH8. Can anyone verify this?

I'm running a Coyote, but had the same issue. I was not able to find a filter that would fit and that could be removed after it was installed. I had to go to the remote oil filter kit that FFR supplied with the Coyote install parts. If you want to find a filter, I suggest looking at the Wix site (https://www.wixfilters.com/ProductsAutoOil.aspx). It can be searched and sorted by filter size and other parameters. HTH Keith HR #894

[33fromSD]

The trick I learned for removing pilot bearings was stuff with grease and then hammer in the install tool.. the grease hydraulics out the bearing. Works remarkably well.

Yup...this is what I've done in the past too...works great....

[HerculezJT]

Yup...this is what I've done in the past too...works great....

you can use bread as well if you dont have grease. Honey Wheat gave me the best results

[e36m3]

Like everyone else, I had to grind down 1” x 1” tubing that runs above the gas tank to get the gas tank to slide into place, especially with the sound deadener installed under the tank.

I’m running a carb, but my 86 5.0L block doesn’t come with a mechanical fuel pump so I bought the FRR fuel injection kit. I ran the braided fuel lines that came with the kit along the passenger side frame up to the fuel pressure regulator.

I didn’t realize that the fuel pressure regulator output that comes with the FFR kit cannot be turned down to 6psi so I had to buy another fuel pressure regulator that has a lower output.

Most low pressure output regulators cannot handle the high input pressure that the FFR fuel pump puts out. I ordered the regulator and gauge from Summit Racing, Trick Flow® TFX™ Universal Bypass Regulator TFS-27001 and Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Gauge 15632.

I didn’t like the idea of running the fuel lines through the transmission/drive shaft tunnel so I ran the fuel lines along the passenger side of the frame. This forced my to mount the fuel pressure regulator lower on the fie wall and closer to the exhaust than I would have liked. I think I’ll make a heat shield to mount on the exhaust pipe to keep heat away from the fuel regulator.

[e36m3]

After I was happy with where everyting was mounted on the firewall, I pulled the engine back out and removed the firewall.
I sanded down the firewall and then used Eastwood's 2K clearcoat to seal the firewall.
Sealed and riveted the firewall to the chassis and reinstalled the engine.

[e36m3]

The engine shop that built the engine for used a PH8 filter, this filter hit the electric power steering.
I switched to a PH16 filter.

[e36m3]

I bought the Summit brand shorty stainless steel headers and some stainless steel 12 point bolts.
I took an old 3/8 combination end wrench and ground down the boxend of the wrench becuase I knew it would be a tight fit to fit the wrench in between the header pipes and the bolt heads.
I'm a little disappointed in the Summit headers, in 4 spots even with the wrench ground down I still couldn't get the wrench to fit with the bolts turned in as far as I coudl with my fingers.
I had to pull the headers back off the engine, heat the 4 pipes up red hot, then bang the pipes in a little near the header flange to have enough clearance to slide the wrench between the pipe and the bolt head.
Since the heads are aluminum I used anit-seize on the bolts and star lock washers. I was careful not to over torque the bolts in the aluminmum heads.

[e36m3]

I roughed in the mufflers to drill the holes for the mouning brackets prior to installing the floor.

[j33ptj]

I bought the Summit brand shorty stainless steel headers and some stainless steel 12 point bolts.
I took an old 3/8 combination end wrench and ground down the boxend of the wrench becuase I knew it would be a tight fit to fit the wrench in between the header pipes and the bolt heads.
I'm a little disappointed in the Summit headers, in 4 spots even with the wrench ground down I still couldn't get the wrench to fit with the bolts turned in as far as I coudl with my fingers.
I had to pull the headers back off the engine, heat the 4 pipes up red hot, then bang the pipes in a little near the header flange to have enough clearance to slide the wrench between the pipe and the bolt head.
Since the heads are aluminum I used anit-seize on the bolts and star lock washers. I was careful not to over torque the bolts in the aluminmum heads.

Curious of Allen bolts would have worked in this? Better access....

[cob427sc]

My HR has a Buick Nailhead engine and I bought Sanderson Headers. They came with allen bolts but still required a little playing with to get them in and tight. I used anti-sieze on the bolts anf have had to re-torque several times.

[e36m3]

j33ptj,
Before breaking out the torch and hammer, I tried socket cap allen head bolts and found the height of the socket cap to be a problem.
I figured allen head bolts would be the solution, but I was suprised to find the added height of the socket cap prevented me from being able to start the allen bolts without running into the header pipes.
Thanks,
Andy

[e36m3]

My HR has a Buick Nailhead engine and I bought Sanderson Headers. They came with allen bolts but still required a little playing with to get them in and tight. I used anti-sieze on the bolts anf have had to re-torque several times.

Buick nailhead will look cool in a HR, old school. The guy who built my engine told me to put anti-seize on or later on I'll never get the header bolts out of the aluminum head.
Retorqing header bolts reminds me of high school, I had a 71 Chevelle that the header bolts seemed come loose every few weeks. Are you running any kind of a lock washer?
Thanks,
Andy

[cob427sc]

There is a small lock washer on the bolts but it seems that just the bolt must expands due to the heat. ARP makes a similar bolt that has a locking clip made for just this purpose and I might investigate these. The bolts I have are stainless and I don't dare installing them without using anti-seize as SS has a tendency to gaul.

[e36m3]

What size are the drive shaft bolts on a 8.8 rear end?

[e36m3]

Google search says drive shaft bolts are M12X1.75X27mm

[e36m3]

Between Thanksgiving and Christmas I got these items done.


Mounted the fuel pressure regulator, AC Dryer bracket, and overflow coolant tank.
Fixed a brake line leak, had to tighten up the line going into the T for the front brakes.

Installed the aluminum floors pans, the biggest thing I learned doing this is to make sure the 3M 5200 Marine adhesive is warmed up to room temperature before trying to use a caulking gun to dispense it. It doesn't flow well at all when cold. My hands were killing me when I was done. I used a lot more of the 5200 adhesive than what FFR recommends I think because I couldn't get it flow when cold, good thing we have a West Marine in town where I could go buy more of the 5200.

Installed the clutch cable.

Installed the carb, accelerator pedal, and ran the throttle cable. Throttle cable installation was pretty straight foward, but I found out I need to move the overflow coolant tank because it was in the way of the throttle cable

Thanks,

Andy

[e36m3]

I was able to take about 3 or 4 inches out of the width of the transmission tunnel to maximize foot room. The T5 tranny is pretty narrow.
When I narrowed the tunnel the clutch arm hit the tunnel, so I cut out a section of the tunnel around the clutch arm and the fiberglassed in area to clear the clutch arm.

After cutting out the area, I used the corner of a box to create the form of the new fiberglass area.
I wrapped the corner of the box with a plastic garbage bag so the fiberglass wouldn’t stick to the box.
Then I used duct tape to hold the box to the tunnel when the fiberglass was applied.
I used a couple layers of fiberglass mat and let the resin cure.

thanks,

Andy

[33fromSD]

That looks really Andy....curious, what are you using for fiberglass mat, resin and harder? I have some odds and ends repairs to do.

I have a T5 as well but running the hydraulic slave cylinder mounted to the side of the T5 I may not get as much space as you did but I'd like to get another 1-2" of foot room if possible.

Thanks, Jim

[e36m3]

That looks really Andy....curious, what are you using for fiberglass mat, resin and harder? I have some odds and ends repairs to do.

I have a T5 as well but running the hydraulic slave cylinder mounted to the side of the T5 I may not get as much space as you did but I'd like to get another 1-2" of foot room if possible.

Thanks, Jim

Hi Jim,
Happy New Year!
Here is what I'm using.

Thanks,
Andy

[e36m3]

Had a little free time today and got the parking brake installed.
I think this was the 1st thing I've done on the project that took less time to do than I expected
Great way to start the new year off!
Thanks,
Andy

[33fromSD]

Hi Jim,
Happy New Year!
Here is what I'm using.

Thanks,
Andy

Thanks Andy...Happy New Year to you as well..... Here is hoping 2021 is a little more "normal" (whatever that means anymore) than 2020.

Thanks for sharing what material you're using. Jim

[e36m3]

When I put the front suspension together I didn't do a very good job of eye balling the toe in or camber.
Once I put some old tires and wheels it was obvious that the toe and camber wre out in left field.
So I got out the angle gauge and started making adjustments.
The drivers side went okay. I adjusted the toe on the drivers side 1st then the camber.
Found out that Camber really affects toe in, espically when you have about 5 degrees of neg camber...

Start working on the passenger side and things went side ways.
Started to adjust camber and the linkage adjuster that threads into the lower tubular control arm would only turn a couple of degrees and stop.

It was stuck enough that I decided to pop the lower ball joint out and get the control arm in a vice.
Put the control in the vice with some rubber around arm to protect the powder coating, I could only get the linkage adjuster to turn about 1 turn by squirting WD40 and Rust Blaster into the threads.
Eventually it stopped turning at all.

For some reason the threads of the control arm and linkage adjuster have galled together. I didn't use any tools in threading the stuff together.

Called FFR and they said they'd send me a new control arm, Left hand nut, and linkage adjuster. Unfortuantely the linkage adjusters are on back order

I got the oxyactelene torch out and heated the control arm up red hot and started cranking on it with a breaker bar. Didn't budge initially then is started to move, yeah!
I thought I had it coming apart when the linakge adjuster snapped off...

I've got a lot of other things to work on so it won't hold me up. Part of the fun, right??

Thanks,
Andy

[FF33rod]

Ouch. that sucks. Don't forget that the adjustment changes with ride height

Steve

[RoadRacer]

Ouch!

[e36m3]

In late September I ordered American Racing VNCL 205 Classic Torq-Thrust II Gray Painted Wheels with polished lips with NITTO - NT555 G2s tires. Intially I was told the wheels with mounted tires would ship middle of November. In October I got an email from CARID week that the American Racing will not ship the wheels until 1/8/21. Covid and all, I get it on lead times.

On 1/14/21, I called CARID to find out what the status of my order is. The 1st shipment of wheel that American Racing sent to CARID the wheeel offsets were wrong so CARID sent them back.
The 2nd shipment from American Racing sent to CARDID the wheels were correct, but one was damaged. Looks like I'm looking at another 6 to 8 weeks

I'm bummed that I still have to wait, but its winter here in Michigan so its not like I need the wheels and tires right now. I've got a set of old wheels and tire to move the chassis around with.

I do appreciate CARID checking the wheels to make sure they are right, it saved me a lot of shipping hassles. CARID credited my credit card $100 for my troubles.

Thanks,

Andy

[e36m3]

Guys with the Deluxe 32 nose, where did you put the radiator fan thermo switch?
The bung that is welded into the radiator is for the draincock.

Thanks,

Andy

[sethmark]

Computer of the LS! Not helpful, I realize.


The two easiest spots or if there’s a free hole in the intake manifold or a port on the side of one of the heads. Otherwise, get a thermostat housing that’s drilled and tapped for a bung.

[JimLev]

Something like this but with the correct ID for the lower hose.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2280

One of these should work...
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Radiator+...ref=nb_sb_noss

The 32 radiator doesn’t come with a bung for the fan switch and a peacock like the ‘33 radiator?

[FF33rod]

THat's weird it doesn't come with one. To me the intake manifold doesn't make any sense as that doesn't show the temp of the water in the radiator which is what the fan controls. However, maybe there isn't a choice.

Steve

[JimLev]

If the fan sensor was in the intake manifold the temp rating of the sensor would have to be much higher than the sensor used in the bottom of the radiator.

[e36m3]

Seth, Jim, and Steve, thanks for the responses.

The 32 nose radiator set up is different than the 33 nose, see the pictures below.
My intake and thermostat housing both have ports that the thermo switch could be mounted in, so that would that would be convenient.

With the 180 degree switch that FFR provides, I do agree that it seems like the fan would be on most of the time if the thermo switch was in the intake or thermostat housing.
I’d like to go with the lower rad hose. I put an electric fan on my 95 M3 a few years ago and that fan only runs when the car is stationery, ever after running it hard on the track.

I'm not crazy about the corrugated hose that FFR uses. I may change it, but I haven't given it any thought yet.
The lower radiator hose exits at the middle of the radiator, basically pointing right at where the bottom of the front shocks mount I have to do a hard 90 right out of the rad.

I don’t have a tubing bending like Seth has😊, so I’ll have to see what I can come up with for preformed radiator hoses. Any recommendations for website that sell hoses?
I’ll look at it tonight in the garage and see what length I need.

I may still go with higher temperature thermo switch in the intake too...

thanks,

Andy

[RoadRacer]

I wonder why they are different? I put a 32 shell over my original radiator just fine. there was loads of room

[JimLev]

Andy, I bought parts to replace the corrugated radiator hose that should arrive tomorrow or Sat.
I’ll post the parts and pics when they arrive.

[cob427sc]

I installed the thermo switch in the inlet to the intake manifold, using the supplied FFR switch. The fan only runs when the car is at rest. Anything over 10mph and the engine stays cool enough with just the air blowing through the radiator that the fan never runs.

[e36m3]

I wonder why they are different? I put a 32 shell over my original radiator just fine. there was loads of room

Hi James,
After spending more time under the car with the raidiator in place on the car and re-reading the FFR assembly book, I now under stand that the lower radiator hose is suppose to route in between the shocks, go in front of the crack shaft pulley, and then make a hard turn into the lower water pump inlet.

Can you send me a couple of pictures on how you routed lower hose, please?

[e36m3]

I installed the thermo switch in the inlet to the intake manifold, using the supplied FFR switch. The fan only runs when the car is at rest. Anything over 10mph and the engine stays cool enough with just the air blowing through the radiator that the fan never runs.

Cob427sc,

I decided to install the FFR thermo switch in the intake, easiest solution. Thanks for the feedback.


thanks,

Andy